Olnick

Welcome aboard, outdoor. You'll be right at home here! And congrats on finding the problem.

Good suggestions above. Yes, '95 is OBD-II. If you pull the codes get the actual code numbers for us, not a verbal description. How many miles on the car? Did you replace the thermostat with an OEM unit or the "exact replacement" Stant? Cheapie aftermarket t-stats can give problems. What plugs and wires did you use? Start by burping the coolant system to make sure there are no air bubbles. Good luck.

Very pretty car. I think I would have stopped him and tried to buy it too!!! Congrats and enjoy!

Good thinking--even just eyeballing it is wise. I didn't pay any attention when I pulled mine, then I read something on here about pushing it too deep. That's when I came up with the jar top trick. Good luck.

Wow! That is still one fine looking vehicle!

Agree with GD--flat blade screwdriver has always worked for me. For driving the seals in, a white PVC pipe coupler works well. Just take your seal with you to the hardware store to find the right size. (To keep the seal from going too deep, I took a flat plastic jar lid and hacked a hole in it just big enough to clear the cam shaft, then put it between the seal and the PVC driver. That works on the right side cam IIRC.) And yes, the OEM seals are brown. I was confused--I thought they had been superseded by the black ones, but I just checked with Jason at Mike Scarff and he cleared that up for me! Good luck.

Welcome aboard, Jim. Yup, they are amazing cars--and this is an amazing place, full of helpful, caring people! By the way--please consider putting your city & state in your ID rather than a zipcode. Thanks.

Hmmm, most of us struggle just to get the car running.

Get the "good one," Subaru OEM from a dealer. Also get an o-ring for the oil pump so you can pull it, inspect it and reseal it.

To each his own, Red! All I can say is my '95 Legacy "felt like new" when I replaced the bushings. It's a great feeling.

Right. But the contacts are mounted in the solenoid housing and the plunger has a copper "washer" on it that closes the circuit to provide power to the starter motor.

Wow! I don't know how you were trying to do it but I did mine ('95 Legacy L) a few years ago--took the unit out of the car and it was a piece of cake. This may help: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/change-heater-control-lights-95-99-legacy-26408.html?amp; Good luck.

Call around locally. Try an auto-electric shop, the starter/alternator repair places that J A Blazer mentioned. Or try Toyota too--they used Denso starters. Then, if someone has contacts, I suggest taking your old ones out and carrying them with you to make a visual match--there are several different styles. I doubt that you will need a new circular plunger contact, just clean your old one up with emery sandpaper. Good luck!

You're certainly welcome, tehP. I respect anyone who tries to research a problem before jumping in! And folks here on the board want to offer help if they can--so "ask away" on the questions. Good luck and be careful. I feel for you working on a city street in the cold!

Was that click the solenoid? If so it's probably the copper contacts that feed juice to the starter. Cheap and easy fix.

It is confusing--Subaru changed the linkage design several times over the years. But I'm pretty sure yours is just like mine ('95 Legacy L) and that is what is shown in the drawing you posted. You should have the spring (#35043) too. Get under the car and look at the large washer (shown as #35082B)--there's an "ear" with a hole that the spring hooks into. Other side hooks to an ear on the linkage IIRC. I really doubt that you need to replace the linkage. Again, get under the car and check out the condition of yours before you go buying a new one. You probably do not need the shift rod bushings (there are two, one on each side: #35035A)--mine were okay when I checked them. Suggest you use the "search" function here on USMB. There's a lot of discussion from the past that may be helpful to you. Good luck.

Driver's side is left. Direction is properly given from the point of view of the driver while sitting in driving position. Hate to rain on your parade but "Replace shifter bushings" is not "little stuff!" It can be a real PITA--but well worth the effort. Good luck--keep up the great effort.

You can replace all 4. I did on my '95 Legacy L, but it's been a few years and I can't remember all the details--other than there was nothing left of the original bushings when I got it apart!!!

Looking good! Glad you're getting started on the clean-up, fix-up, getting familiar with the car. Preventive maintenance is the key to happiness! Strongly second what heartless suggested. Car should be on its 3rd timing belt by now (60k interval). If you don't know the history, by all means change the timing belt, idlers, water pump, replace cam & crank seals, pull the oil pump and re-seal. Also a tune-up. New NGK plugs, new OEM or NGK plug wires, new PCV valve (and clean the hoses to and from the PCV). Good luck--and let us know how it's going.

Yup, new bushings will make a world of difference--makes shifting a real pleasure again! Replacing bushings is a bit of a PITA but well worth it. Many helpful threads about the process in the past, try a "search" and you'll find a lot of good info. Helpful hint: Use "advanced search" and type in your key words (shifter bushings), then select "New Gen forum"--it'll zero in on just what you want. Good luck.

Hi and welcome aboard. What kind of advice? What model Subaru?

Good job, stickedy. And thanks for letting us know how it went. Now--get out there and enjoy those beautiful Bavarian roads!

Welcome aboard HardDog! You've landed in a good place here. If your Subie is in decent shape I'd say you made a smart buy. I know I love my Legacy L Wagon, a '95. Good engine and handy as heck for hauling stuff. Plus you got the last of the non-interference EJ22s. Good luck--ask questions--and keep us up on your progress.

Good luck, Ed. Sounds like you're gonna' be okay. Let us know.

Ask him! They are different sensors and obviously your EJ22 needs the correct one (whichever one it is) to function properly.