Olnick

1994 was the last year before Subaru went to OBD2 so there is no code reading device. You have to go under the dash and do the "secret handshake" to pull the codes. Here's a how-to that I saved a long time ago, hope it helps: "Underneath the steering column is a wide rectangular piece of plastic, the same color as the dash, which has a tray marked 'TRAY.' This large piece is held to the underside of the dash with a bunch of screws. Remove these screws and remove the plastic piece. Now there will be a bunch of wires for you to see. To the left of the steering column (at least in left hand drive cars) somewhere probably tucked away will be a bundle of wires with two pairs of electrical connectors which are disconnected. On some 92-94 MY Legacies the check connectors can be found on the right hand side of the steering column. One is black and connects one wire to one wire, the other is green and roughly 'T' shaped, this one also connects one wire to one wire. With the car turned completely off, connect the black connector. Next, turn the ignition to 'ON' but do not start the car. The idiot lights in the dash will come on, and some may go out after a few moments. Watch the 'check engine' light and maybe have something you can write on to remember the codes. If there is a fault code in the ECU, the 'check engine' light will begin to flash in a particular manner. The codes range in number from 11 to 52, so we know that they all will be two digits. To signify the tens place of the number, the 'check engine' light will flash a long (1.2 seconds) flash. The single digit will be a short (.2 seconds) flash. Each flash within the same code will be separated by .3 seconds. Each error code will be separated by 1.8 seconds. Don't bother trying to time all these, just watch the light and you will begin to understand. Once the ECU has flashed all stored codes, it will loop through and repeat them. Now, for example, you see two long flashes followed by two short flashes. This means you have a code number 22. By looking at the following chart, we see that 22 is the code for the knock sensor. Once you have read and recorded all faults, turn the ignition off and disconnect the black connector." By the way, overheating should not be a major concern in a '94 EJ22. Good idea to warm it up and check anyway though! Good luck.

Hmmm, "Dealer says check engine light is on" . . . but did he think to pull the codes to find out why?

Sounds like you're on the right track, hope replacing the alt does it for you. Are there any "auto electric" shops near you--places that rebuild alternators & starters? There's usually one in an area that local mechanics respect and use. Might be worth calling around and asking some shop guys. Good luck.

That's great news--about the best solution you can hope for!

I would add the MMO to your existing oil and let it do its thing while you drive the next 100 miles or so. Then drain it and fill with your new oil unadulterated!

Have you looked at how the shield is installed? I'm not familiar with newer models but on my '95 Legacy that "underside" shield has a tab at one end that clips it to another panel and a single screw at the other end. I can remove it or replace it in less than 30-seconds.

Care to share the information?

Ahhh, you are a wise person Doshu. I like your thinking! They are great cars and you found a great resource here. Welcome aboard.

Old style tensioners are generally pretty robust. Got any Pull n Pays or salvage yards near you?

Aw, what the heck--I don't mind saying hello! Seriously, welcome aboard USMB. Great resource here because of great people. Find the right forum (Older Gen for Brats I suppose) and you'll find a wealth of help. Master the "Search" function and it's like opening a Subaru Encyclopedia. Again, welcome aboard and all the best to you!

If I remember correctly the NGK "V" coppers are the basic $2 plugs.

Consider rebuilt axles from MWE in Denver. They're genuine Subaru axles rebuilt to very high standards. And I might mention that Marshall Wolf is a straight-up guy to deal with.

What a relief! Very happy for you.

Congratulations! (On both!)

Might be a good idea to insert the stub axle in the differential housing first to make sure the circlip is seated and holding. Then re-install the axle like a normal axle change. Just make sure the roll pin holes line up properly. Edrach's fine writeup has some good tips: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75739&highlight=ej+axle Good luck.

Congrats on the fix! And thanks for letting us know how you accomplished it.

Welcome aboard USMB moparcolt. And congratulations to your daughter! You'll get more response to your question if you post it in the New Gen Forum.

Agree with Noah--I doubt that you would need a new oil pump. You can get a Timing Belt Kit and a new Water Pump as a package from someplace like The Import Experts and save a ton of money. And don't forget new Cam & Crank Seals while you're in there. Use OEM only! Good luck and keep us posted.

That's just not right! If what they say is true, it is simply not acceptable. I would consider it a design flaw and possibly not safe to be on public roads. Do you have any kind of "Consumer Protector" or "Ombudsman" in your government? I'd complain to them. Or go up the chain of command at the dealership and demand your money back. Or contact Subaru's regional office and complain. Be a bulldog! Good luck.

Don't have any pictures but what you need to do is get a new plastic lamp socket to install in the lamp housing. It will come with short pieces of wire (pigtails) sticking out, three IIRC. Cut the wires to the old socket and connect them to the new pigtails. I like to solder them. But before you connect the wires, slide a separate piece of "heat-shrink tubing" (what we've been calling shrinkwrap!) onto each wire. Slide it as far away from your point of soldering as possible. Afterwards slide the tubing over the soldered joint and heat it gently so it shrinks and seals the joint. Here's what I used (from a 6 year old post): [What I got is called a "Socket/Pigtail Assembly"--found it at Carquest, part # "S-526." Most parts stores probably have something similar, essentially a generic socket to fit a halogen lamp. Y' just gotta' get the counterguy's nose out of the vehicle specific catalogs so he can go and actually look for it!!!] Good luck.

Might help to let us know what year/model your car is. Those connections changed over the years.

Fascinating story chucktile. Sounds like you did a good job--and the car looks great. I'm glad you found USMB to be so helpful, even without asking questions! You obviously know how to research and use a resource properly. Just one suggestion--next time could you break your story up into short paragraphs? That was a bear to read!!! Good luck.

Hope some suspension guru chimes in here! I guess I'd try it both ways and look for any broken or disconnected parts. Good luck--and let us know what you find.

Sway bar? Or sway bar links?

I think soldering and shrinkwrap is the way to go. Did it to my '95 Legacy years ago and never had a problem since. Just keep the shrinkwrap well away from the heat while you're soldering! Good luck.