Olnick

+1 on replacing the PCV. Be sure to replace the hose that connects it to the engine block too--it can have virtually invisible splits at the base. You can re-seal the front end without pulling the engine. But to get to the separator plate you'd have to pull it or drop the tranny. Good luck.

The maximum allowable difference is 1/4" of circumference, not diameter. Your 1/8" difference in diameter would mean more than 3/8" difference in circumference. In other words, beyond the allowable limit.

Try using this site for a visual comparison: http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp?item=Wheel-Tire Just type in the pertinent numbers.

Found this fascinating tire & wheel size calculator that allows you to compare cutaway drawings of various combinations. Just type in the pertinent numbers, including rim width and offset, and you get a side-by-side visual representation of the differences. http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp

Welcome to USMB, Matt. Post your request in the New Gen Forum--you'll get more response there.

The inner face of the wheel center is flat against the hub face, right? No spacers or centering rings holding them apart?

Nice job. The photograph is a bit confusing with the extra (apparently unused?) sockets on the left. You might want to explain in the caption or add labels in the pic.

Welcome aboard, zacrody. If you post your questions in the New Gen Forum you'll get a lot more response.

Sounds like worn/pitted contacts in the starter solenoid, common problem as cars get up in miles. Try a search for "starter contacts" and you'll find a lot of help. Here's one thread for example: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105893&highlight=starter+contacts Good luck.

Amazing! She looks like she just rolled off a showroom floor--I'd say you have a real treasure there.

Drove across N ID just last month--it was wonderful. ('Course it was 3:00 in the morning! )

Congrats! Ain't it a great feeling, the sense of accomplishment made even sweeter by the money saved!

Although I gave you the "logical" answer earlier, I tend to agree with your feeling. That's why I drive a '95 Legacy with the bulletproof NON-interference EJ22!

I think you're getting two different "systems" confused. All EJ22 engines through MY '96 are non-interference. After that they became an interference design. Why? Because it allows for slightly more efficient operation. All EJ22s through '94 were OBD-1 compliant. From MY '95 they are OBD-2. Hope that clarifies for you.

Agree with johnc . . . it sure sounds like a timing problem.

Not sure about this, but is the '95 Impreza OBD-2? The '93 EJ22 is OBD-1. Hope someone with swap experience will chime in. Welcome aboard, Subi3k85. Good luck.

A quick search (Tah-Dah!) turned up numerous posts. Here's one that may help. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86018&highlight=knock+sensor Good luck.

Welcome from far, far away, F419C! Hope the CTS does it for you--I know a new one made a world of difference in my '95 Legacy a few years back. Let us know how it goes. And if possible send us a pic of your Impreza "on location" in your beautiful islands. All the best to you!

And you are absolutely right, SubyBRAT, it will be! Welcome aboard--congrats and good luck with the dream car.

Congrats and welcome aboard. Got a pic you can post?

Hey. britt.britt! So far you're doing everything right (I assume you have a Subaru.) Sorry, can't help you with the Arizona part. J/k! Welcome to USMB.

The EJ22 was non-interference from its introduction in 1989 through the '96 MY. Was interference from '97 'til they quit making them ('99?). Even if the engine was replaced it wouldn't make any sense to swap in a newer interference model since they were OBD-2 (from MY '95)! Can you tell where the clacking sound is coming from--timing belt area or valves? Good luck.

Hi Kenny, welcome. She's a beauty--now you can enjoy those Idaho highways even more, right?

My son and I recently "refreshed" the front end of his '92 Legacy. Used TheImportExperts TB, idlers and water pump--seemed to be good quality. But I strongly urge you to use only Subaru OEM for the water pump gasket and the crank & cam seals. Even the oil pump o-ring! Consider new cam shaft o-rings (front left and right rear) while they're in there. Might want to get a new thermostat (again, Subaru OEM) and radiator hoses while you're there. Good luck.