Olnick

Way to go, Larry! Not the easiest place to work under there, is it?!! Bronze bushings should be pretty durable. Any change in the feel of the shifter--noise, vibration, harshness (NVH)?

That's GREAT news--congratulations, Robert! Try again on the axle nut (it's standard thread.) If it doesn't happen, take it to a shop and see if they'll just break it loose for you for a coupla' bucks--then retighten it enough to get home safely. Good luck!

That separator plate is a very common source of leaks. IIRC some years had plastic plates--they should be replaced with metal ones. Good luck.

Well, hi there, Robert! Welcome aboard. Don't stay confused, just ask for directions! Really quite helpful folks here. And tons of info. '92 Legacy--great car, fantastic engine (sorry about the automatic part.) (Nah, j/k!)

I seem to recall that warming them in an oven softens the adhesive so you can separate the lens from the backing. Might be worth a search. Edit, found this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80660&highlight=headlight+oven

Welcome to USMB, Chris (first time I've ever said that to someone in Namibia!!! ) I know nothing about turbos but I'm sure those who do will jump in here.

Welcome, runthrudajungle! You're gonna love this place--lots of good info and good people who share it. Enjoy!

Welcome aboard, Redlined. Beautiful Legacy and great pic in front of the painted wall.

Sorry you had to cancel the BBQ, SubieDaddy (I probably wouldn't have made it anyway!) But congratulations on the new job--must be a great relief after 2 years.

Might want to try a bottle of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) in the crankcase. Drive the car for a few days and see if the clicking goes away, then change your oil & filter. Good luck.

I suspect you've found the major culprit in your oil leak. You might want to loctite those backing plate screws. New o-ring and a very carefully laid even bead of ultra-grey sealant. Make sure the o-ring doesn't slip out of place as you position the pump back in place. And of course a new crank seal. Use Subaru OEM. Do the cam seals too, yours are old and the new Subaru seals are made of a better material. Continued good luck, Robert. Hope this solves the oil problem.

And don't you be late! Mom

It's a lot of money, yes. But don't sit and beat yourself up about what you had to pay, it's probably not out of line for where you are. If you like the car accept it and move on. Just for peace of mind you might want to check with your state's Consumer Protector office to see what your rights are, just in case the CELs continue or any other problems arise. Check any time limits too. But chances are you're going to be okay. Good luck. Enjoy.

PLEASE DON'T crawl under the car while it's up on an auto jack! Get proper jack stands or at least some heavy blockage to hold the car up. (And put the tranny in gear or park, hand brake on and chock the wheels that are on the ground.) Now repeat after me, "Yes, Mother!"

When you are accelerating or cruising along, your engine is creating a smooth flow of exhaust gases. Take your foot off the throttle and the flow is suddenly cut off even though the engine is still turning and the valves are still opening and closing. That creates vibrations in the air column within the exhaust pipe, which can rattle anything slightly loose--like a heat shield. I may be way off base, but that's how I picture it!

Sorry, can't answer your questions about rubbing compound and clear coat--I've never gone that far with the process. I use a plastic cleaner but the housings go dull again after a few months. Check some of the Subaru on-line parts places for new prices. But be prepared for a shock, I imagine they're very, very expensive! As far as aftermarket (non-OEM) I don't think I'd trust them to last.

You need to pinpoint the location of the noise as much as possible. Get under the hood and rev the motor (either by hand using the throttle cable or with a friend in the car.) If it's coming from the timing belt cover area at the front of the engine you should have the belt/idler/tensioner looked at immediately. If it's coming from under the engine toward the rear it could be a loose heat shield on the exhaust. Might even try pushing on the shields with a wrench or large screwdriver, see if it changes the sound or if you can feel the vibration. I tend to think this is the more likely cause. Good luck.

Try a search--there have been many, many writeups. Here is Legacy777's very thorough approach: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=739&highlight=yellow+sand%2A

The general feeling that I've picked up over the years is to not use a K&N on the Subaru. Our cars breathe very well with a clean standard air filter. Plus I've heard that oil can mist from the K&N and collect on the sensor wires in the MAF causing problems. Just a different perspective!

I just love success stories! Thanks, wally.

FYI, the OP is no longer with us: "by the way forget anyone on here ever helping me agian F that. dont bother repling i will not be back."

Welcome! Welcome! And welcome! (One for each Subie you own.) You'll get more response on the overheating concern if you post in the New Gen Forum. Might even want to try a search. Good place here. You're gonna' like it.

That's great news--thanks for the update.

Seems like there's always more we "should" or "could" do isn't there?!! While you're in the front end, at least check the condition of the idlers and tensioner. Yes, Subaru OEM are ridiculously expensive but a lot of folks have had good luck with e-bay kits (the import experts?) The upside is you have a wonderful EJ22--it's not going to grenade the engine if something breaks (although it could do some physical damage up front.) By the way, is your tranny manual or auto? For the half-axle try to get a remanufactured Subaru axle, maybe even try to find a decent used one at a pull-and-pay. People have a had a LOT of trouble with cheap aftermarket axles. (MWE has a good rep for rebuilts--you can find them through CCR engines in Denver.) Now, what you don't want to hear: You need 4 new tires. On AWD all 4 must match in circumference. You really don't need an expensive special tool to hold the cam sprockets. Maybe not the best idea, but you can let the timing belt hold the pulley while you wrench. Others have used strap wrenches or a chain wrench (but use something like a piece of old timing belt to protect the pulley teeth.) And some have even made their own holding tool out of metal or wood! Good luck, jensen. Keep posting.

Welcome, dzld. Great place here, someone in older gen forum is sure to help you with brake problem. Or start with search, I'm sure it's been discussed before. Good luck. Enjoy!