Olnick

GL, you're a man after my own heart--get off the Interstates and see the real country. You have a nice next trip laid out. The North Cascades Highway is absolutely beautiful, made moreso when seen through the windows of a Subaru! And Stevens Pass, a little more "civilized," is still a fun drive. Looking forward to some great pix next spring.

Thanks for the correction, wtdash. I never realized that (so much of my information base is fuzzy after MY '95!!!)

Hi Laura. They both appear to be very nice looking cars. Just be aware that that the DOHC EJ25 engine (in the Forester) had an inherent weakness from its introduction in '97 through about 2002. They are prone to blowing head gaskets and that's about a $1500 repair job. The Legacy has the original EJ22, which many of us consider "bulletproof!" With proper care and maintenance it should be good for a long time. (My son has a '92 with similar mileage and we both marvel at how sweet that little engine is.) AWD would definitely be nice, especially in snow country. FWD might save you a few pennies on gas. All depends on your comfort level and needs. Just like any car, some parts are pricey and some are reasonable. One advantage of the older Legacy--you can often find good parts at great prices in a salvage yard or pull-and-pay. Hey, good luck with your decision--and please do ask any questions you have.

Beautiful! Great vistas. Thanks for sharing. I especially enjoyed your little friend at the edge of the pavement! So where did you go, what was your route?

Yup, as grossgary said, most of what you need to know is right here on USMB--you just have to dig a little, keep reading and researching. "Search is your friend!" For instance there's a thread active right now that might help you get to your gauge lights: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=103069 Then, when you get hung up or absolutely don't understand, by all means ask questions. Good luck.

Ea82, are your sure it's the seal and not the oil pump? By all means replace the seal but while you're there pull the pump and make sure the backing plate screws are tight (Loctite them if they're not) and repalce the pump o-ring too. Good luck.

Mike, I don't know how reasonable (or unreasonable!) your inspection process is, but some jurisdictions will give you a week or two to get your car in compliance if they can't pass you. Maybe it's worthwhile to go talk to them or start the testing procedure anyway. Good luck.

Nice. Looks good. I approve (as the dog does too!)

Congrats. dude! WAY happy for you. Can't wait to see pix.

+1! I'm willing to bet it will clear up your problems, it sure did for me. Good thing is it's a relatively inexpensive fix and not terribly difficult to do.

Welcome back, mt! So what burned out--just the lamp or was there damage to the socket or the housing?

Welcome mfrieze, I think you're going to like it here--lots of info and very helpful folks. You're more apt to get responses to all your specific questions if you post them in the New Generation forum.

Yes. Hey, it's a Subaru. Make that a resounding yes!

Welcome aboard, xbeerd. And thanks for posting the pix--nice looking wagon. We had two '85s in the family and I drove one of them for 15 years. Loved that car. Now everytime I see a pic of a nice one warm fuzzies flood over me!

The IAC or IACV is the Idle Air Control Valve--it meters the amount of air to keep the engine idling when the throttle is closed. I'm a big proponent of removing and cleaning them, especially when an engine is pushing 80 or 90k miles. But, as was pointed out, if your idle is smooth and you're not stalling out it's probably not necessary yet. If you don't know much about the car's history it would be good to do the basics--plugs/wires, air & fuel filters, new PCV valve, etc. Some parts should be genuine OEM Subaru--these can often be bought online at better prices than dealerships. Some parts are fine from auto supply stores. Keep asking questions here and we'll try to steer you in the right direction. Good luck!

Ooops, sorry--I should have asked for more basic informnation! How many miles on the car? When/how did the slow idle start, was it gradual or sudden? Have you had a tuneup recently? How about preventive maintenance, filters/fluids?

Hi mountngrl80, welcome aboard. I think you're getting a massive runaround! Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but any OBD2 scanner should read your codes--the "CA system" comments don't make any sense. I'm not familiar with '05 models or automatics so hopefully someone else will jump in here. Could it be a speed sensor (VSS)? Only other thing I can think of is to try the "search" function (up above) and see if you can find any discussions of similar problems. Good luck and keep asking questions.

I believe there are only two, grossgary. There is no o-ring on the right (passenger's) side front.

The left (driver's) side o-ring is discussed here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61591&highlight=o-ring And the right (passenger's) side here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99283&highlight=o-ring

Welcome aboard, Calcipher. You're gonna' love this place--wonderfully helpful people and a goldmine of Subaru knowledge stored in the archives. Aloha!

Your starter may be fine--it's just not getting the electricity to turn. The copper contacts in the solenoid are a known weakness in Subies. Replacing them is a relatively easy and very inexpensive thing to do. I still think it's the first thing I'd try. A test you might try first: Give the starter a couple of sharp raps with a piece of 2X4 or the butt end of a hammer handle while someone holds the key in "start." Sometimes that will loosen the contacts enough to make at least a momentary contact. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

The marks are there, they're just hiding. At this point he has to "start all over again." Remove accessory belts, crank pulley and timing belt cover. Remove the tensioner and lower right (passenger side) idler. Then take the timing belt off, inspect it to make sure no damage was done and, using the marks on the belt, position it properly. [i am assuming here that he knows the correct marks to align to on the pulleys and rear timing belt covers.] Replace the lower right idler. Replace the tensioner, still depressed and pinned. See pages 19 & 20 in the Endwrench 2.2L Timing Belt article referenced above for tensioner positioning. Give one last visual inspection that all marks are still properly aligned then pull the pin on the tensioner. Then button her up. Good luck.

Roamer, what happens when you turn the key to start? Do you hear the "click" of the solenoid engaging the starter's gear? If so it could be that the copper contacts inside the solenoid are worn or burnt and are not making contact. For your sake I rather hope that's the case--it's not too difficult or expensive to fix.

I don't think I'd worry too much about a small loss at this point. Start getting fresh fluid in there--either one flush/fill or 3 drain-and-fills--then begin checking it on a regular schedule after that.

How did the fluid look--was it rather dark? Now would be a good time to go ahead with a series of drain-and-fills (3 recommended) so you know you're driving with fresh, clean ATF.