Olnick

Welcome matt. Fixed up or not, your car is worth whatever someone will pay for it! You can find them with asking prices ranging anywhere from $500 to $1500--but that's no indication of what people are actually paying. I wouldn't recommend the "loose nuts and turning" method to break the wheels free. Too many chances to bung something up. Try soaking the contact areas with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench then pounding on them with a piece of 2 X 4 as a buffer. Good luck.

Started with MY '97.

Hip-Hip-Hooray for justice! Good for you unibrook for following through and holding them accountable. Congratulations.

Depends. Were there a lot of greasy fingerprints on the boxes?!! :-\

Wow! Amazing thread--good job all around, gentlemen.

What kind of condition is the pulley in? Is the keyway hogged out? What I'm getting at is, why it came loose will dictate what you have to do to fix it.

By the way, here's a link to a recent "ebay kit" discussion: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95187&highlight=ebay+timing+belt

Very good--I like your thinking! All your questions have been discussed at great length on USMB, as I said it's a goldmine here. Go to the search function up top (use the advanced search and limit it to New Generation.) People generally use the ebay kits for the idlers, which are very expensive when bought individually from dealerships. Stick with OEM for the waterpump, thermostat, gaskets and cam/crank seals. If you pull the engine don't touch the rear main seal unless it's obviously leaking. MAF--might try cleaning it (gently!) with MAF cleaner. Check/clean connectors. New plugs and wires (stick with OEM) might help the cutting out problem. Congrats, good luck and keep us up on your progress.

Check responses in your original thread.

Actually $1300 isn't a bad price. You obviously have a feeling for cars and mechanicals, so it just comes down to whether it's worth it to you. As a longtime driver of a '95 Legacy L, EJ22 with 5-speed manual I heartily agree with what you've read--they're very stout machines. Very sweet engines and quite enjoyable to work on. Don't worry about the oil leaks (unless it's pouring out!) It's a "Subaru thing!" But valve cover gaskets are easy and you can do a front end re-seal, new timing belt, etc. without even pulling the engine. Everything you'd want to know as far as specific details and helpful tips is right here on the USMB--the search function opens up a goldmine of collective knowledge. Like for rattling heat shields! Give the car a thorough once-over. If it seems solid I'm sure it would make an excellent dd for you. Good luck with your decision. And do let us know how it turns out. Aloha!

Welcome aboard. Can't help you much on the details but it sounds like you've got a pretty good handle on things. Maybe someone else can offer their opinion on the tranny noise. Frankly, the price sounds a little stiff for the car as you describe it. Go to Edmunds.com and use their TMV (True Market Value) calculator--shows less than $1000. 'Course KBB puts it at $2000+ so who ya gonna believe! The good is that you'd be getting a non-interference EJ22, probably the best engine Subaru ever put on the road. And it's relatively easy to work on. Good luck on your decision, Scott. Let us know how it turns out.

You're welcome. Hope it fires off perfectly for you tomorrow. Those toothed idlers always seem to be the first to go, same thing on the EJ22. Guess they take a lot of pressure.

Those are the tooth counts for an EJ22. This may help: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=10168953 Good luck.

Well, you just blew my mind. For years I had thought that the recommended ThreeBond (1215?) was anaerobic. So I went to their product chart and, as you said, it's not! Their 1300 series sealants are, but I don't know what they're recommended for. Thanks for the info.

Congrats! Here's to years of happy driving for you. And thanks for letting us know how it resolved.

If you haven't already, call them and get it on record. They owe you a big one! Good catch, Dave.

Not sure I understand what you mean by "that last kick." What happens when you turn the key to start? Do you hear a click, but the engine doesn't turn over?

Here's one of the writeups that might help: http://www.scoobymods.com/legacy_hvac_bulb_replacement-t91.html?t=91

Reason I pushed Ultra Grey is it's Subaru's acceptable substitute for the original anaerobic sealant. Uberoo--don't spread it out like a film. Lay it down as a small continuous bead in a specific pattern. Check a Haynes manual or search here on USMB for where it goes. And don't overdo it, you don't want any getting into oil passages. Good luck.

Don't do that. Use Ultra Grey.

. . . caught dead!

Paint your car vivid pink. No self respecting groundhog would ever be . . . !

That's good to know. What's a PDI?

And . . . and . . . and then?