Olnick

Google Kelley Blue Book (KBB) and Edmunds online. They both have calculators to determine used car values. KBB is basically a dealers' tool--their values will usually be higher. Edmunds claims to show "True Market Value" calculated from actual sales. Between them you can get a feel for used car pricing.

Which Mount Vernon do you live in? Call Jason Douglas, Parts Manager at Mike Scarff Subaru in Auburn, WA. 253-259-3060. Jason's a good guy and has always had the best prices I've ever found.

Could it be the clutch itself?

Great news! Thanks for letting us know.

Welcome to USMB, Macca. If you'll post your questions in the New Gen forum you're more likely to get technical help. Good luck.

If you think the t-stat is aftermarket, you really should replace it with an OEM or equivalent.

See? Sometimes it's the simplest things! Good on ya' for fessing up!

Welcome aboard, CB--you're a very lucky man: 1) You found the USMB, 2) You own a Subaru Diesel, and 3) You live in Ireland! The USMB is a fantastic source for "all things Subaru." Unfortunately we don't know a heck of a lot about the diesel models, other than the anecdotal and theoretical--they won't let us have them here in the US! But I'm sure there are enough commonalities that you can glean some helpful information. Post any specific technical questions here in the New Generation forum. Ireland--ahhh, the beautiful Emerald Isle! I have roots there (doesn't everyone?!!) So last summer we took our daughter and her family there for a short visit. Fantastic--lovely countryside and wonderful people. My only concern was that our beautiful 6 year old granddaughter, who has flaming red hair, might not be allowed to leave the country!

General consensus is don't touch the rear main unless it's obviously leaking. Too many chances for a poor installation!

Order 2, 1990lego. They're exactly the same--passenger side rear and driver' side front.

No, it is not the same as the oil pump O-ring. But the camshaft O-ring at the rear of the passenger side head is identical to the one at the front of the driver's side head (in the block immediately behind the cam pulley.) (You owe me a Coke, Fairtax. Almost!)

Wow, that's a good looking wagon! Be sure to check the color code for the cladding--I think it should be noted on the driver's door plaque.

Are you talking about the plastic cladding on the rocker? On the lower part of the door? Or both? Maybe it's something you can find at a Pull n' Pay. (But I have no idea how they're attached to the car!) Can you post a photo of the damaged area? It might 'ring a bell' with someone!

Yes, he may be "firm" on the $1500 price. But if nobody will pay that he'll certainly consider lower offers!!! If you really want the car, make a sincere offer . . . and be patient. Good luck!

Congratulations! A little TLC and regular PM (Preventive Maintenance) and she should serve you well for a long time. Enjoy!

As you eliminate the likely sources of oil leakage (cam & crank seals and valve cover gaskets) and when the underside of the engine is cleaned up, you should be able to narrow down the location of remaining leaks. A separator plate leak would show up under the bell housing at the rear of the engine. Have fun and keep posting your progress!

I agree with what AdventureSubaru said. Do your best to get her running smooth then keep an eye on the engine. Worst case, somewhere down the road, just source a used EJ22 and slap it in! Good luck!

Welcome to the USMB, Fatenarr. How long since the car had a basic tune-up? Since the last timing belt? Is it an AT or MT? I wouldn't jump into headgasket replacement until you have proof they're needed--EJ22s rarely have HG problems. Is there excess air in the coolant system? Are there bubbles or oily bits in the coolant overflow tank? Start with new timing belt, idler pulleys, check the tensioner.. Check the oil pump, tighten the screws on the back of the impeller, re-seal with new O-ring and sealant (Ultra Grey or anaerobic). Do the crank & cam seals, camshaft O-rings and valve cover gaskets. New water pump with OEM gasket. Then give it a tune-up--new plugs (NGK) and wires (OEM or NGK), new air & fuel filters, check/replace vacuum hoses & PCV. Only other common oil leak culprit would be the oil separator plate on the back of the engine block--that would require pulling the engine or dropping the tranny to access. After that, clean the engine block and keep an eye on the headgasket seams for a period of time--see if they are actually leaking. Good luck & keep us up on your progress!

^+1! very nicely put, AdventureSubaru. I could not agree more--that is exactly what we did with our kids. Thanks for stating it so well.

Welcome, Jemonai! That's a beautiful machine--what engine does it have?

+1^ What powderhound said. My son grabbed one from Pull n Pay yard and it worked great for the life of the car!

I have no idea what the "EA" designation means. Might be best to remove the driver's side end piece of the timing belt cover and look inside to identify the tensioner. Probably need a flashlight and a small mirror to see! Good luck!

Also consider Mizumo Auto--I've bought two kits from them and have been pleased. $165.99 + $35 FedEx shipping. Includes timing belt, Aisin water pump with proper metal gasket, idler pulleys, crank & cam seals (with 2 extra cam seals--funny story!) Do you really need a new tensioner? The old (horizontal cylinder) ones are pretty durable. Google ebay mizumoauto and check them out. Sorry--for some reason I can't paste a link on here.

Looks good, sounds good and the price is probably fair. Where did you find it, on Craigslist? How long has it been listed? Remember that's not a hard-and-fast "price"--it's what he'd like to get for it. If it's been up for awhile he may be more receptive to reasonable offers. I'd start at $4k and see what happens. Good luck!