Olnick
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Way to go, frag! Just wish I had been in Thetford to witness your morning bicycle rides with pieces of Subaru sticking out of your backpack! And "+1" on your bleed valve installation. I've always believed that such a device should have been designed into our engines originally. Congratulations to you!
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My First Subaru
Olnick replied to x_25's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Hey, you're one lucky guy, x 25. That's a good looking machine . . . and you know it like a member of the family! Welcome aboard. Take good care of that vehicle and enjoy. -
Funny, I noticed the headlights as gbhrps did. Just be careful--if you get them nice and clear your car is going to look TOO good! Seriously, go to the title bar at the top of this page and click on "search." Type in something like "polish headlight lens" and you should get a ton of entries. There are a lot of different approaches to the project so you can choose what you want to do. Have fun!
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Don't want to add to your work but since you're that far into the engine it'd be a good time to replace the timing belt (if it's anywhere near due). Also inspect the idlers, especially the cogged one, and the tensioner. Check the cam seals too. Add a new o-ring for the oil pump. Along with the NGK plugs throw in a new set of Subaru OEM wires. Sorry about your surprises but wow, you're gonna' have a virtually new engine when you're done! Good luck.
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Sorry, I can't be much help there. My '95 Legacy has the older style boss/universal linkage that you can unbolt to replace bushings. You may have to buy an entirely new boss/linkage/"long arm." Again, I urge you to search, research, even call a dealership or online parts place to find out exactly what you need. Jason in the parts department at Mike Scarff Subaru in Auburn, WA (866-528-5282) is an excellent help. Tic doesn't do the boss or boss bushings--just the shift lever to "long arm" (control rod) bushings. Good luck.
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I thought that pic looked familiar. That's my car! Problem was that the hash mark on the cam sprocket did NOT line up with the teeth--no matter how much tooth counting you did. I ultimately did what Reveen suggested here, line up the hash mark with the notch on the cover and the engine (a '95 2.2) runs sweet as new.
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You're on the right track. Start by taking out the console inside the car. In my case it came out in pieces--the armrest/storage box, the panel with the leather boot, then the long molded tunnel. Next, from underneath the car, drive out the roll pins and drive the boss off the tranny stub (that could be a challenge because of the rust). Then cut the zip tie (!) and slide the stabilizer rod off its stud. Should then be able to pull the entire assembly forward (out of the rear stabilizer bushing up under the console) and take it out of the car. I believe you'll need to replace the entire boss/universal unit rather than drilling out the rivets (not even sure you can buy replacement bushings for that style.) Might want to replace all the bushings while you're in there. Kartboy makes "upgraded" ones for the stabilizer rod. And I heartily recommend the Turn in Concepts pivot bushing for the shift lever to control rod connection (best mod I ever made!) It's a bear of a job but your car will feel like new--at least when you shift gears! Well worth the effort. Good luck.
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Once upon a time mine were super tight too. Couldn't break them loose by hand. So I got a 1/2" drive breaker bar, 14" long, and rigged the car jack under it. Nice even pressure and the plugs quickly started to loosen. Just had to keep changing the blocking under the jack to keep the pressure as perpendicular to the breaker bar as possible--lotta force there, could be dangerous if it slipped.
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Yeah, I blew the pic up after posting and realized maybe it was a roll pin! I call it a "stabilizer bar." It connects, through bushings, to the body at the rear (under the console) and the tranny housing at the front to provide a platform for the shifter. Probably have to replace the entire joint, not familiar with that because I think it's a different design than my '95 Legacy. Do try a search under "shifter bushings." There's some pretty good info and links on here.
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Right on both counts! Looks like the zip tie is trying to accomplish what the missing washer is supposed to do--hold the stabilizer rod on the bushing. Also looks like the double roll pin (to hold the boss and tranny stub together) has been replaced with a nut and bolt, which explains your earlier question about getting a wrench on it. PO really did a job on that linkage. If you can find the large washer-with-eyelet at least you coukld install the spring and it'd improve your shift feel a lot. Any idea what the bushings are like in that "universal" linkage (can't tell from the pic)? Good luck.