mickytrus

Thanks!... It went ok.....

Yeah, So I went ahead and got one of these pups. Will post on how it goes. quality build etc. etc.

For little more dough.... Might be the way to go.... Anybody got one of these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/173310313540?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D236622%26meid%3Dd64fe4efcd1244abad6ee80ce6f234ed%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D265461050503%26itm%3D173310313540%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseWebMskuAspectsV202110NoVariantSeed%26brand%3DSubaru&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A173310313540d64fe4efcd1244abad6ee80ce6f234ed|enc%3AAQAGAAACIBZVppsKd7ns%2F6V0zsrSqiF%2FdU19mgn%2FdPTwQp31iM%2F9arBfaO0jDjbdqFPAwu7G7BJPQp1V4WKqrOSBctdQCaVEKPiknkwgL%2BK0JBg4ynNiNCRQhDjfTKbzEcEGAS6wHt4k34DyF%2FtwXpvxzQbX7lwzV7H2IKQwR5r3dVSthA%2Bh2YwG%2FTnvOhpJdUjayKgeRAucQl%2FSSFZwvWuJMyleqtaSm2xfC43iVTFBt4y9SJ0RgcpTmzrsKdKyxN4kW3KM1RLHp5%2BCnFa72Xk2bLpvo0NW4%2Bgrr6IEID0YP69e96gvdz2yamUr3sIAM6bbdrLRt72FjZcfwLzcRWKQXN0%2FR%2FhKirAQ34yWjXwIEeDZ8ImAyHBT21qDuutpwYAt6oXYHi13VCmNqBH2pSqZfKZ4yLYORSZLptvpM%2BvEv4oGkBoMMldkt39xh9rzWVixHkU7LsQhEPFdmy9iGSxdpTFzNf7dKC%2BSbW6BpyX1gvUg19b6dgJM8AzpdRR5civ6RaY26g9rtdmzaWCyEpWGAQyBDqd%2Be%2B4CGHlz5AuYDF%2B33DYK%2BodqoL5%2Fskp9OXKeaLltuFGUGLPxzGm25cXDghSokmqTreuLHOlBV%2FyeNs6cY4VxzAObphjBRgZnjEfuzuXd6h8h8%2B1zo%2B0b%2FEXjulLWOfHDNNX0vd%2B8r8Cay02RQl8R9Wqp5D7xGdi0kH4v8rHbGdA%2FDdP20hm9sie7S46N4qM%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675&epid=2183926058

Yeah, You go through all the trouble, get the car so you can drive it on a long trip and bite tooth and nail. Cuz the radiator is fck'd....(plastics become britte no matter what)..& and will keep breakin.. Yeah, The reason I did this clutch was the last ride was too suspenseful. (road trip to "God's Country") Hoping I got the momentum to get up a hill Tires are not slipping in the sno... but, the clutch is slippin on the hill (go figure) What are recommended brands to replace it with? Thanks, Micky

Yeah, Thanks guys! much appreciated... That did the trick. I had it on this little steep hill in the yard. So lastly, And then I think this clutch story is at a happy ending.... By the way, love the new clutch... It is so nice and smooth. and I can now rev the motor a bit... Sheeze happy to be purring again.... I don't know if there was a clutch return spring ever on this shifter fork..... feels like it would be good to have one.... can anyone send a link to one that would be close to the correct one. thanks, Micky

I noticed that the upper hose, rad outlet... where the hose mounts to radiator is a little compromised. There is supposed to be that little ridge(can think of it sorta like a ferrule) that is on the edge of the mounting nipple which is there to keep a tightened hose from sliding off.. You get my picture, you kno what I am talking about. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81vZI%2B9X2eL._SL1500_.jpg link to,, just be for reference showing what a healthy outlet or inlet to radiator looks like. Mine has somehow disappeared. has broken off. I am wondering what is the plastic that these radiators are made out of? does anybody know? I am guesing ABS plastic?(just Cuz it is black) What I am thinking is that maybe I can use some glue to create a new ridge. for peace of mind. (cuz I have the hose on there now... it is not leaking... just need to Mod this problem... so not to buy another radiator because of this problem... this radiator is in excellent shape... thanks, MIcky

yeah so, I got about a gallon in.. and am working on the second... maybe got half pint in... Motor was pretty empty being that I pulled it to do the clutch.

So I put the motor in and got it running. Current problem being getting the coolant in.... It seems to be air bound.... I did manage to get it so heat is circulating....(hot heat from heater core) Just after a little drive.... lower hose is cold and radiator fans are running... the temp gauge is never high.... It is running at normal operating temps.... Any suggestions would be appreciated.. thanks micky

Glad I changed it. When the seal was removed. inside the two lips of the seal was completely black. and it was hard as a rock. If I find it, the seal.. I will take a picture and post. Don't know what happened to it after I took it out.

Thanks! Yeah, It looks to me like it is leaking. how much is questionable. Nonetheless, it is leaking and has 230K on it. New clutch old weeping seal, not a good match. Ok, I will go put it in now.

Wrist pin access cover thanks!.... an o-ring..... pretty standard on size ( I should find it in my kit of 100 o rings?) Yeah, I got one ........ and then the rear cam plugs.... got them coming... So like you are kinda spooking me on this rear seal....... You don't think it is leaking.? and I shouldn't really change it..... I mean I am all for the minimal approach and if OE is still working then it is better... than redoing it.......... but, the leak sorta looks like a gootee underneath the seal..... AND....... Really the proper way to do that seal........... is it to split the case? the concern is tapping it in and the inner lip sitting properly...... (even if I use that really slippery assembly luber??) Please, chime in.... thanks, Micky

Ok, it is not an advertisement for Master Lok... Seemed like a quick and easy solution.... Looks like I have three things leaking It is a plastic oil separation plate.... got a metal on e to put in and looks like the rear seal is leaking....... so I should replace this as well what is the other thing ?? ??? left of the crank... Also what are the names of the rear seals on the heads? and left is like a Mushroom seal and the other is a flat seal that is bolted in. thanks, Micky

Yeah, You know....it..!!.. and those tools get mighty cold while in your hands, While the Frost(force) comes out of the ground to emanate through your spine via the tail bone..

Ido Thanks!

Hey!, So I am pulling the motor(I believe I have the parts) but, we wilhave to see what is there. Anyway, I was asked(by auto parts sales dude) about production years for the 2.2L(1997) motor that is in the car now rather than the 2.5L motor that came with the car (98 legacy outback) (CUZ I wanted valve cover gaskets for the 2.2L) He was saying that there are three different valve cover gasket configurations. ( I will just bring the old gaskets down he has all of them in stock..) BUT, I was wondering if anybody might know what is behind what he(auto parts sales dude) is talking about. [ three different possible valve cove gasket configurations] for a 2.2L - 1997 ??? Thanks, Micky

GTK. Thanks! Yeah, Chaulking tubes...... enough for a lifetime... Though I gotta say.... I had to do a bunch of windshields in the years of my "passed on" Loyales... I got to using Window Eurathanes... which were in a chaulk.... tube... You would be surprised what and how many different uses I found for that stuff.... Just an incredible flexible all weather adhesive..... "From patching rust holes... to repairing shoe soles...." Anyway, back onto the car.... SO it is a 1998 outback legacy..... which had a 2.5L in it..... From Manufacturer I have it with a 2.2L... Was purchased by me that way..(third owner)... second owner purchased at 70K with 2.2L I did a timing belt in it(176K) Contitech part number was PP172Lk2---yr:2016---> new number(as of today) of kit is GTKWP172A(now CA emissions) I had a little of a "heck of a time" determining proper kit in yr:2016..... Had to compare with old parts and choose from a couple of kits... SO this determined the motor as being....... Impreza 2.2L 1997 sub model Brighton.... Do you guys need to know all this...... ??? I guess more info the better.... So Question section:: what about the clutch kits in these two different motors?..... 2.2L and 2.5L ( I can compare I guess over at the ROck- A) But, would rather hear it from the forum... What about the Fly wheels???? Could I possibly have a Flywheel that is from the original 2.5L on the 2.2L motor...... You can see where I am going with this........ So I am looking for answers to what the possibilities are up ahead...... and flexibilities..... IE: maybe cluctch from 2.5L is better to go with.. ETc. Etc. If I have to rip it apart first before I order stuff.... well, ok....... just slows down the process...... better to know.... than guess.(I guess) Thanks the input Micky

Thanks! Just finishing up a clutch job on a Jetta......... Can't wait to start....... Might as well get the sep plate now..... OK, So I took a look at separator plates.... Again, thanks for the link. Do they generally come with a gasket these separator plates? Or (no) they RTV'd on. Micky

Yeah, T belt was a complete kit.... Pro Series Plus........ Conti I will yank the motor... and then Determine..... I guess... I will have the C l cht kit on hand..... I should just figure on replacing this plate.... Does / can anyone send me a Part number on the replacement separator plate..... (a metal one) Yeah, I guess if I can get another 20K out of the belt.... and its accessories... why change it now..... Focus my NRG on the the clutch... and get the vehicle ready for the cold weather... HOw about a link to a pic of the Separator plate on the the back or the engine... Any such thing out there? Thanks! Micky

Hello, 98 sub outback legacy wagon 5sp. I have to do a clutch and rear seal (what other possible causes(locations) could create oil on clutch??). Great vehicle... about 228k on her.... I did a timing belt about 60k ago..... and well, I knew this when I bought it...... the motor was changed to a 2.2L(good motors) first question..... not exactly sure what year my 2.2L motor is....... from the looks of the the Contitech Pro series plus part#(PP172LK2) (the kit I put on 60k ago) I am thinking 97-98 2.2L motor Considering a Sachs clutch kit: 2.2L SACHS KF73801 oversized bearing and retainer sleeve SACHS KF73803 2.5L SACHS KF73802 oversized bearing and retainer sleeve SACHS KF73804 Does the 2.2L and the 2.5L(original motor) Use same clutch and accessories...... ?? The numbers are different.... more springs on 2.2L ......size is the same........ number of teeth are the same Thoughts on differences?? So Looking at clutch kits..... Any recommendations? brands etc. etc. other than the Sachs And being that the motor is out...... I should do the timing belt.... ????????? BUT these kits are crazy in price now........... I know there is 60k on the belt..... Suggestions?? Continue to use the hardware??? replace just belt... with a new contitech belt????? thanks, Mick

Kind regards, Micky

Funny, how we can spend the day with little or no intention,,, tending to what matters but, it not on any list..... I forgot about this one...... see post.........

that is what this one was doing........ Yeah, so to take and also add some more mystery to this one...... Hurray!. I am driving it around............ and I did find one more thing... Cuz,,, it would start... and it would idle....(but sometimes it would just drop....like a ton of bricks Wham) The MAS air flow........... the connection over there.... I gave it a wiggle... and it died.... SOOO...... I took it off........ plugged it in and inplugged it like twenty times... to get the corrosion off of it..... (looked as green as the wicked witch of the west's face [before she puts on her makeUp]) That took care of the accelaration problem... THE KICKER.... I wanted to defrost the window...... (NO GO!) SHE DIES!!!!! I thought it was the fan motor killing it...... but................ It is not///// the Fan motor not on..... just hit any of the buttons.... it wants to die... I am ok with that(no heat).. The Loyale is running........ and this is the last of my five Loyales.... running. all are deceased only one still sits...(full of scrap).... and I will drive her(this Loyale) to "that place in the sky" tomorrow morning...... She will be weighed..... Like cattle........ and taken away..... A moment of silence............... ( ODO:312,172[and counting] ) , Micky

SOOO.... where I just left it............ Loyale is idling........... warming up....... BUT, I don't think I am "out in the clear" Here's why... I think there is a multitude of things/problems..... Perhaps, they are getting resolved.....(not really sure) As stated in the title........ car would immediately die when key was released from the start position.... It doesn't appear to be doing that... I did take care of a connection, a black lead that is tied onto the + side of the battery terminal. It had an OEM connector on it. It ran immediately into the wiring harness.... I started cleaning the terminals on that connector(well, then it just broke into pieces in my hand)...... SOOo I stripped the wires ... pigtailed them together... and threw some tape on them... (anyone know where this wire goes.... it was black off the battery and immediately into the harness....(14 gauge wire??) The ammeter is reading inside on the dash...... I disconnected the + side of the battery while the loyale was running... I did not stall out........ I am thinking........... that when I go out there now....... it may be stalled........ ... what ever the case may be....... I will see if it dies..... when I push the accelarator... pedal(gas pedal).... Which I think might happen..... Thanks, Micky

I got a battery should be charged up over night pretty decently...... I will get a voltmeter on that pup..... Interesting what you say about the bad alt........ I hadn't thought of that....(very possible) Cuz.... that is what it was doing there for a while( while I was tooling along at 30 M.P.H. it would run and then not run) [not stall but.... like BRRMM not run BRRRMMMMM not run BRMMM..... not run..... all the way home) Will check for corrosion and bad/fried wiring.... I run with the covers off so..... I will just see about the belts.....(did put an driver's side belt on.... in the last 100 miles) Micky