mickytrus

Yeah, I have seen that gasket just degrade... and offer zero support..... I an not going to use the gasket.. I am not sure when I will attack this....... I am getting a little toasted... been keeping late hours for about a week working on this pup (Jackson Ho') is her name. Toninght I will start it up.... Hopefully, she will pur like a kitten...... I ended up replacing the tensioners and the idler gear...... as well as all the gaskets and seals above the pan...(less the rear seal) Used MilesFoxes.... Grand Head resurfing technique.....(thanks again)

Yeah, I unplugged it and ripped the accessorieds out last summer... I was due to get that big hunk of terd of the motor.... That thing has to weigh 20 pounds. Anway... I picked up a 3/8" inch black gas nipple...(I forget what size I got) but the idea goat brought up I took to the next step... Just in that I bought a nipple smaller than what I needed in size. To this nipple I added a 3/8 black coupling... The coupling made it longer than the desired size... Then I tightened the coupling on to the nipple, this was done till it was the right size. There is no cutting involved. AC unit is gone now..... The only thing with this method is that there are only three points of support. It causes the swivel of the alternator to be bolted in while the other two point are a little loose... It is important to make sure the belt is straight. then the two points can be tightened. then the swivel can be tightened..... I would like to think that this is a temporary rig. till I can get the actual bracket from an older gen car. A welder and a little metal fab experience could mod this very easily and use the nipple concept. Just bolt it ... and then weld it..... I any event.. this is better than having that useless dead unit there.

Could be blowing it out the head... that is what mine liked to do..... Hopefully, it is fixed now..... new head gasket..... I ran it it for 40k leaking like a pig......... I would run 20w50 in it. with a quart of Lucas engine oil stablizer.... that slowed it down some......... You need to ascertain where the leak is don't guess..... I remember not that long ago.... I didn't run the car for like a month. or more..... Started it up..... and watched it drip.... so get under it... while its running.... see if you can see it drip.... Try throwing some card board under it... after you get home at night to see where the drops are with respect to the engine above..... then decide....

Dig it.... Thanks for the input Q

My Ac is toast.... hasn't worked in ages and not really interested in reviving it. What I would really like to do is remove the compressor... I removed everything else.. This will require some kind of revamping... I don't want to get into re-engineering the alternator bracket..... Anybody have any suggestions.... ????? thanks, Micky

Thanks, Sounds good.:headbang::headbang:

Ok, Sounds good.... Question on the omission of the cork gasket... which I can relate to............ :dead:When I use the "spooge".... ultra grey........ any procedure to tightening? Do I tighten but leave the ultra grey space between the mating surfaces to dry(say 3/16"- setup space). and then when the product dries.... tighten?????? to "torque specs" Thanks, Micky....

Anyone, have any tricks to doing an oil pan gasket while motor is in car...... Like I can loosen the motor mounts... and lift the motor up... Is it alright to support the motor by the heads? Or is this bad juju.......... It is those last bolts near the rear inspection plate... and holding the motor up that are my concerns.... I don't have an engine hoist or... an a-frame........ Thanks, Micky

Thanks for all the input on this. Yeah, I torqued and did the 24hr check...... I may consider a hot retorque... How long does one wait...... for a hot retorque? 50 miles 300 miles....? I am not putting the timing belt covers back on... so...... that will alleviate some aggravation... It is just that I sealed the cam boxes... so I will have to go through the troubles of recleaning and resealing...... but, if it can improve a good seal... and provide longevity to the seal.... I would say it is worth it..........

So follow torque sequence,,,,,, Torque in three steps to specified tightness....... that is it.... Does anybody "let stand till the bread rises?":headbang: I can get the heads on and then work on the water pump and the fuel pump.... that should be good for a couple of hours and then recheck final tightness following the torque sequence.... Is that long enough to let the heads sit.... Is there any relevance to my madness? Micky

Sorry it was rather late last night It is an ea82 What is the retorque procedure? I am using ishino gaskets , parts Store said they were oem. Do I install heads and then Go bake a cake? If there is a link You can offer to an old thread. I Would appreciate

Hi About to throw on my heads? Does any one use locktite? And is this good preventative? My bolts looked like something Was leaking. By them Thanks micky

Cool Thanks ! GenDis So I am going to collect my items to resurface at home... I got a nice butcher block work bench.... I need a piece of glass... 5/16 X ? X ? by what do you recommend... I am assuming that your sheet of 220 wet dry paper is 8.5 X 11.... so when you glue the paper down(on the glass)..... are you gluing two sheets next to each other, thus getting a 17 X 11 sanding surface? And what kind of stroke do you use while sliding the head on the sand paper? Are you (represent with clock as direction) moving/sliding the head from the center position to say 10 oclock and then back to center position and then moving/sliding the head to say 2 oclock? and then back to center position...... repeat process till completed? MilesFox with the peening I meant peening the crack itself. just get a small pointed punch and sort of tap down the edges of the crack to smoosh it together. Ok, I can dig it... The only potential for compromise with the crack is the valve seats. I have seen valve seats pop out. you can stake the side of the valve seat near the crack to prevent this. This is what peening the crack would be. So what if it look like the crack goes through the seat? I cant really determine this cause the valves are still in..... I would peen it right before the seat? I get the idea with peening generally speaking.... If you had a crack in a concrete wall.... one may drill the crack at its end point then fill the wall..... similar concept... Again much thanks, Micky

Thanks for all the input on this... this is a pic on one of the cracks in the combustion area on the head... they are all like this.. in the middle like previously mentioned...... Just figured a picture is best for everybody to see... So resurfacing my self...... I want the head to be true removed of any warping..... How can this be done.... without a milling machine ? Where do you recomend I get a kit for lapping the valves.... or if you could just provide me with a link to such a kit.......... MilesFox.... wondering if you could explain the peening on the gaskets? What do you mean ? Thanks, Micky

Geez. I got this smartphone but It hasn't made me smarter. There I was stAring at those cracked heads At the parts store. And I didn't get A picture. So will describe. Cracks are between Valves starting in the casted area the Cracks proceed towards the exhaust Valves down towards the valves and Give an unclear impression that they Go toward(through) the seat A picture says 1000 words. Sorry for the lack of a picture

Yeah, He is going to send them back to me (from their machine shop to the part store) I will look at them and probably send them back to be resurfaced to look at........ I think he said, the crack goes in between from one to the other like I------E dotted line representing the crack between the I ntake and E xhaust....... What is a TSB? Also the valves were not removed... they are just doing a resurface....(this place;they don't remove the valves) so he didn't look inside the port... crack is between valves in combustion chamber part of head. thanks

Hi, Yeah doing a timing belt... the car always leaked like a pig so I figured that I would regasket the motor..... you know new head gaskets etc....... so I dropped off the heads to be resurfaced... The old place I used to use went out of bussiness.. too bad........... So I used the parts place that I use..... Anyway, I get a call they are telling me the heads are both cracked...... now... mind you the car ran fine..... I had no complaints about how the car ran..... It just was the timing belt snapped....... Any thoughts on this cracked head story... I really don't want to buy new heads at 250.00 a pop........... Again, the car ran fine..... Thanks, Micky:horse:

here are some pics of the break. I had mentioned I would post them.... good to see what/how they can break. As for the car... Yeah, that is a good optimistic approach. work on it for an hour and see what happens....... I ended up getting another loyale... Out of RI.... 3 hours away.. this means I have four of them in my yard now....... I'll post a pic of the "ho's". It would be cool to get another 15k on the car.(her name is Trixie).. she would have 300K... that was the ultimate goal... . I seem to be having trouble with the Image attachments..... more pics

Yeah timing belt.... pull distributor cap... see if rotor turns...... there are 2 belts so pull the cover on the passengerside belt.. where the cam gear is.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Schutz-Rubberized-Coating-Black/dp/B000PEQGMM (requires a gun... but well worth it.) this is really great stuff. goes on just as good as the oem.... I remember when I did a couple of these... I went sofar as getting rid of that stupid rubber trim on all the wheel wells and I bondoed up the holes that held on the rubber trim... after shooting the whole bottom and wheel wells I put a piece of masking tape halfway in (where the rubber trim used to be) and sprayed a fake rubber trim with this stuff. there is also a product called "rocker schutz" which I believe is paintable... and is what is on the subies rockers.... I usually just scrape this stuff off clean... and then paint the rocker with out it.... but you can by rocker shutz...... Also another goodie... is 3m window weld... http://www3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/home_leisure/-/node_GS51JKDTTHgs/root_GS2MT8MCQBgv/vroot_BWFLZ648DFge/bgel_PNC6H0CVTWbl/gvel_V81136SWNHgl/theme_us_chimpartnersupport_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html it is a little pricey but fills holes pretty good..... or spots where you can weld rivet with this between the metal...(it aint going nowhere) (where gloves don't get this junk on you.. don't come off.... as bad as pur-15 as a skin clinger I almost lost my subie... the wheel wells rotted out... and the struts popped through....... make sure you wash then out good... there are too many nooks and crannies in there.... AND my subie is in the Hospice right now... the lower piece of the rear suspension rotted out . the tube the trailing arms are connected to............ run a ton of water through there(the tube) If you want to keep you car as long as you can... got to fight against the rust with preventative.... measures........ Good Luck!

keep it spinning as you tighten the bolts just to see what is up...... Also, good idea to pack it with vaseline. this will ensure that the oil get sucked up quickly.

I got a car wash that lets my wash my greasy pig.... Engine degreaser is on the selector at the carwash. Yeah, those motors love to leak....... even the head gaskets.. will leak oil or antifreeze.......... I used an anaerobic sealant(made by lock tite) on the cam seal's o-rings that did the trick and on the cam boxes that helped..... if a head gasket is leaking oil it will be on the corners (front or back) I actualy sat and watched it drip out.... when a new head gasket is installed... mill the heads... and make sure the o-ring in the head gasket is installed when the head gasket is installed.... this is where it leaks the oil(on a head gasket oil leak) AND then there is blow by..... at that point, not much one can do..... excessive pressure leaking by the rings into the crankcase. just a complete mess.... this is my greasey pig... she is in the Hospice right now with 285,000 on her..... already started pulling parts off her for the other greasy pig I got...... but, maybe she will be resurrected......... I must agree... I do like these cars..... I have had 4 of them...... don't know if I will find another on the east coast.

Sounds like a bad axle cv joint...... do some figure 8's in a parking lot at like 5mph... Should hear bad clicking if it is a cv joint...... steering might get jerky as well.

Numbchux, Thanks for the pics It is 4wheel drive.... Yeah the piece that is rotted out is the one the trailing arms bolt to Your third pic down clearly show the location of my dilema. It is at the outer swivel point.... I'll go and get some pics to post post some pics for laughs:(:(

Yeah sure there is rot on it.... front frame is still ok.... Two years ago redid the wheel wheels in the back... they were rotted out. I have painted this car twice now... not planning on a third..... like if it is not a big deal I will do the job really looking for some info on anyone who has pulled a rear suspension out.. or even worked on one...... I did the rear drivers side wheel bearing less than a year ago.... not a very fun job needs impact tools.... So Has anyone spun out those rear crossmember bolts? What was it like..... To what degree of a nightmare is it.... If anyone can explain the steps to pull this thing out.. that would be cool. Otherwise, I will stare at it for a while...... to figure it out...... Just hoping you's could save me the trouble Thanks, Mickytrus