mickytrus

Yeah, T belt was a complete kit.... Pro Series Plus........ Conti I will yank the motor... and then Determine..... I guess... I will have the C l cht kit on hand..... I should just figure on replacing this plate.... Does / can anyone send me a Part number on the replacement separator plate..... (a metal one) Yeah, I guess if I can get another 20K out of the belt.... and its accessories... why change it now..... Focus my NRG on the the clutch... and get the vehicle ready for the cold weather... HOw about a link to a pic of the Separator plate on the the back or the engine... Any such thing out there? Thanks! Micky

Hello, 98 sub outback legacy wagon 5sp. I have to do a clutch and rear seal (what other possible causes(locations) could create oil on clutch??). Great vehicle... about 228k on her.... I did a timing belt about 60k ago..... and well, I knew this when I bought it...... the motor was changed to a 2.2L(good motors) first question..... not exactly sure what year my 2.2L motor is....... from the looks of the the Contitech Pro series plus part#(PP172LK2) (the kit I put on 60k ago) I am thinking 97-98 2.2L motor Considering a Sachs clutch kit: 2.2L SACHS KF73801 oversized bearing and retainer sleeve SACHS KF73803 2.5L SACHS KF73802 oversized bearing and retainer sleeve SACHS KF73804 Does the 2.2L and the 2.5L(original motor) Use same clutch and accessories...... ?? The numbers are different.... more springs on 2.2L ......size is the same........ number of teeth are the same Thoughts on differences?? So Looking at clutch kits..... Any recommendations? brands etc. etc. other than the Sachs And being that the motor is out...... I should do the timing belt.... ????????? BUT these kits are crazy in price now........... I know there is 60k on the belt..... Suggestions?? Continue to use the hardware??? replace just belt... with a new contitech belt????? thanks, Mick

Kind regards, Micky

Funny, how we can spend the day with little or no intention,,, tending to what matters but, it not on any list..... I forgot about this one...... see post.........

that is what this one was doing........ Yeah, so to take and also add some more mystery to this one...... Hurray!. I am driving it around............ and I did find one more thing... Cuz,,, it would start... and it would idle....(but sometimes it would just drop....like a ton of bricks Wham) The MAS air flow........... the connection over there.... I gave it a wiggle... and it died.... SOOO...... I took it off........ plugged it in and inplugged it like twenty times... to get the corrosion off of it..... (looked as green as the wicked witch of the west's face [before she puts on her makeUp]) That took care of the accelaration problem... THE KICKER.... I wanted to defrost the window...... (NO GO!) SHE DIES!!!!! I thought it was the fan motor killing it...... but................ It is not///// the Fan motor not on..... just hit any of the buttons.... it wants to die... I am ok with that(no heat).. The Loyale is running........ and this is the last of my five Loyales.... running. all are deceased only one still sits...(full of scrap).... and I will drive her(this Loyale) to "that place in the sky" tomorrow morning...... She will be weighed..... Like cattle........ and taken away..... A moment of silence............... ( ODO:312,172[and counting] ) , Micky

SOOO.... where I just left it............ Loyale is idling........... warming up....... BUT, I don't think I am "out in the clear" Here's why... I think there is a multitude of things/problems..... Perhaps, they are getting resolved.....(not really sure) As stated in the title........ car would immediately die when key was released from the start position.... It doesn't appear to be doing that... I did take care of a connection, a black lead that is tied onto the + side of the battery terminal. It had an OEM connector on it. It ran immediately into the wiring harness.... I started cleaning the terminals on that connector(well, then it just broke into pieces in my hand)...... SOOo I stripped the wires ... pigtailed them together... and threw some tape on them... (anyone know where this wire goes.... it was black off the battery and immediately into the harness....(14 gauge wire??) The ammeter is reading inside on the dash...... I disconnected the + side of the battery while the loyale was running... I did not stall out........ I am thinking........... that when I go out there now....... it may be stalled........ ... what ever the case may be....... I will see if it dies..... when I push the accelarator... pedal(gas pedal).... Which I think might happen..... Thanks, Micky

I got a battery should be charged up over night pretty decently...... I will get a voltmeter on that pup..... Interesting what you say about the bad alt........ I hadn't thought of that....(very possible) Cuz.... that is what it was doing there for a while( while I was tooling along at 30 M.P.H. it would run and then not run) [not stall but.... like BRRMM not run BRRRMMMMM not run BRMMM..... not run..... all the way home) Will check for corrosion and bad/fried wiring.... I run with the covers off so..... I will just see about the belts.....(did put an driver's side belt on.... in the last 100 miles) Micky

What you mentioned about it being spread open... make sense... why it was wearing out....... it was eating the internal diameter up..... thus falling in.ward..... the belt's tension was not on it's side but on it's bottom.......(more like a car tire) pulley should remediate your prob I would think... Any thoughts on how it became spread open? Just curious.... Micky

I am bringing this post back to life... I got a chance to look at the car again today....... Where I left it last. (like a month ago).. was..... a dead battery and turn the key to start(it starts)... let go of the key(it dies)...... SO today I jumped the (loyale)car with the Soobie Outback. I wasn't expecting any results..... I didn't expect the battery to just even crank over with the cables on it........ SO what I was anticipating......... ENDED up being TOTALLY UNTRUE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It jumped..... and I held the key(for a while in the start position... not that I thought it was relevent. to do..... bUUUT did it anyway) SOOOOOOOOO..... I finally let the key go........ and the freakin' (loyale)car was running........ This motor with 300k on her.... runs like a top........... SOOOO I didn't do anything..........(the idea is to drive her,,,,, her last ten to fifteen miles to the scrap yard) I just let the car run..... and didn't fiddle with anything.....(nooooo fiddle playing,,,, not a single bit)..... (Spent the time cleaning out the car.... took the stereo out.... etc etc.....) My point here... The car warmed up beautifully..... the idle kicked down beautifully..... ran for about an hour....(iwas amazed)....... I was there when it died......Cuz it was inevitable.................................... just completely stopped.... running............(like a heart that stops beatin'''''''') DEAD... Interesting.............. I tried to turn the key. to crank it.... Battery DEAD.... SOOOOOOOOO the car ran for an hour...... ON the juice in the battery..... the alternator was not powering the vehicle.??????or charging battery????? I have the battery on an overnight slow charge......(deep cycle) Alternator( I didn't look at the gauge while running....[that kinda sucks]) I will clean some connections.......( if I have to....I have another alternator.....) I am just scratching my head.......... If this is all part of the same problem..... It ran fine............. where as before it didn't even stay running?????????? sounds like corrosion ........... on connectors..... As stated above.... I will look at connectors at the coil.... and the alt....... Any thoughts... Thanks, Micky

I think I have have some of those. fans.... Mine being an EA82. Non turb... It is the same mechanical fan, correct? I didn't even run them..... took them out at some point.... just used electric. Let me know... I will look for them...

Ido,,,,,, Ido knows.... Yeah, currently doing a clutch in a vw diesel..... next is a timing belt in a toyota Solar..... So..... I just need to have a sense of ... piece of mind.. for the time being...... Cuz.... I am spread kinda thin at the moment... Yeah, I blew this one up..... once already......(the EJ22) right when I purchased it....... It sat... for a while...B4.. I bought it for a song........... got it running........ had all sorts of problems.....(nothing that couldn't be fixed) It was time to drive it home......(about a five hour drive)[probably put 300 miles on it after I got it working. I w2as like yeah..... should do the belt should do the belt... started out on the trip...... and wham!....... going up some crazy hill in the mountains.... she blew..... Towed it back to the place I bought it....... Asked if they wouldn't mind if I ripped it apart in the driveway........ and brought the heads home....... (etc etc.....) I put new valves in on the intakes.......)..... 60K later...... So you think...... I should be good for a little while........ 20 or so. more... K........( OI get a chance I i will take a peek at it) I miss my non-interference EA82's......... Thanks, Micky

Geeze!!! just noticed it was like three years ago.... put in one of those Contitech Pro series Plus timing belt kits...... I got about sixty k on the the belt and components..... It has been good.... It is still quiet........ With all the other stuff I have to do..(other vehicles and projects)...... I can't see myself doing the belt...(too bogged downa with stuff).... Contitech says good stuff about these belt kits........ What do you think the life of these kits are????? Micky

Thanks....... I will check the black wire in the run position.... for 12v

Aye! No special tool for driver's side tensioner..... the thing to do... before u put the belt on...... is to bolt it in the opposite direction...... (if you know what I mean)..... just get it out of the way by pushing it..... then the slide bolt.... tighten it up...... when you get the belt on.... Just loosen the slide bolt... it will pop into place........ that is all I do... with my belts.... I don't put anymore tension on the belt than the spring tension..... run without covers.... bathe 'em in anti-seize!!! (had five of these cars....total over 1Million miles,,, maybe 1.25+ )

Does it output 12 volts in run position? I did change the ignition switch(an old one from a 91) that was a known good switch..... this doesn't answer your question...... Do you know what wire on the ignition switch(color) would be the one to check? Thanks, Micky

Yeah, So one can't entirely rule out the possibility of loss of fuel when key is turned...... So yeah, thought I put that up top..... Appologies...... 92 Loyale 1.8L(SPfi) 5 speed Ignition barrel electrical connection integrity......(I like how that sounds!) I have two of these pups that are down..(sorta DOA's...had good lives).... so I grabbed an ignition switch out of the other one... It did not change anything... still have the issue....(just adding this event here.... no sure if it says anything or helps...info is info...) about I.B.E.C.I (Ignition barrel electrical connection integrity) Micky

There are no codes..... well, no lite on..... hasn't ever been...... Taking what you are saying...... which is to say one suspects something.... which in your case.... mentioning.. the idea that possibly when the key is released from the start position to run position..(normal starting procedure) ... the fuel pump is not pumping....fuel anymore.......KAPUT...... I haven't checked this... so I can't say yes.... or no..... but, will say that my understanding about the fuel pump is that it is powered the same(receives it power the same way) during start verses the key being in run position...there is not two circuits to power the fuel pump........ But, there are two circuits to start the vehicle...... (Hence that is why the starter stops turning.... and can unmesh from the flywheel ring gear) BUT, your idea gives me an idea.... which is..... possibly to take an inductive timing light....(geeze,, if I can find where it is... haven't used it in IONS) It will flash if there is spark in the secondary circuit...(hooked up to #1 wire)....... of the ignition system....(running)..... and when it dies.......(??????????) if there is no electricity to create spark.... it should just flat out.... not light.... KAPUT...... SO.......................... In start position, holding key there in start position..(simulating that it is running but, starter is engaged) ...... inductive timing should be lit...... (definitely) THEN let key go.......... light should drop out immediately ........( if no electricity is in secondary ignition system) Any inkling of light while key is in run position indicates..... further investigation of a fuel issue......... Thoughts?? what about a fuesable link.....???? is there any such thing....... seems like..... the two circuits.... start works....... run doesn't work..... fuseable link.......????????????? MIcky

Dude, if you are in the rust belt....(As so is I) you must bathe everything with ANTI-SIEZE.......... I ran those cars..... a long time.... but it was because of a couple of preventative factors.... Anti-sieze everything!........ even clips....... like ebrake clips...... and the brake hose clips on struts.... anti-sieze.... and the metal around the brake hose. where the clip sits.... anti-sieze.... Rubber..... bathe in brake fluid......... flex line exteriors.... bathe in brake fluid........ Are you interested in any body parts? even mechanical parts... I have some........... my cars sadly are done......... they made it over 300k........ I rebuilt them once or twice..... finally the wheel wells went..(on my last one was gunna fix them but, got something with next to no mileage.........so..... should just let them go.........). there was one car I put new wheel wells in......... think I got 307K out of that one....... regarding cams seals(the o rings)....... I always see them leaking......... I do a timing and belt and then in no time they are leaking..... I think they were a bad design....... those motors at less than 50k would leak from the cam seal...(o-rings)........ So....... I started using anaerobic sealant on them.... if you are not familiar with this stuff... I can find some and send a link.... There was a time... when I had a timing belt tensioner seize........ if you will have the car for a while..... worth replacing them and the idler gear........ you can get two runs... out of the tensioners(two sets of belts -- 100k+ (spin the idler by hand - should not make noise) a new idler doesn't spin.(by hand well).. it is sorta tight......... .(replace that stuff and the motor will be way quieter......) Yeah, I lost my covers..... threw them under the work bench just in case........... never missed them... best thing I ever did.... without the covers on....... a timing belt job... is between twenty five and forty five minutes in length........ and I have been stranded......... and grateful....I had no covers on...... regards, Micky

Problem as early stated:::::: ""turn key to start....... starts right up.... let the key go to the run position.... and she dies....(cuts right out.)"" Explained with greater detail After the vehicle fires up.......... (as I mentioned initially).... if I hold the key in the "start" position....(this keeps the starter engaged--- which is not good) the vehicle will continue to run .....(as long as I hold the key in the "START" position..... car continues to run....Understood.....) So this is (what we learn to do as drivers) ::::::: is we let go of the key when it fires up.....RIGHT!... perfectly normal thing to do....(we are taught to do that as[car drivers]) and we go our merry way....... driving.... NOT THIS CAR.... This car dies...... when the key is released from the finger tips and springs to the "RUN" position. it is DOA......... Might as well have turned the car off............. The ignition system is not getting power...... Am I clear enough.........?????? Thnks, Micky

So I was thinking.... maybe... .ignition switch..... I had one out of another car....... threw it in......... car still dies when the key goes to the run position........ Is there a way to bypass.....(like hot wire) bring power to the distributor.... like what if I bring a wire... from the battery........ +........ to the coil..........+ (thinking) (maybe the computer is bad????) yet... I have not seen one of these ever go bad.....( car has 313k) (corrosion???) Schrug, Micky

Out here i the rust belt..... around the front window was always the first place to rot out... on the Loyales..... I have had to do major work around the window posts..... major job..... and window replacement.....(which it is always nice to look out a brand new piece of glass..... When it came to replacing that window trim......(and it's crazy expensive cost)..... I resorted to this: Which simply is..... after window is in place. I cut another tube of window urethane such that it will give me the size bead... (to fill in completely to the window post and such all the way around.... Keep in mind you are trying to make it look nice..... keeping in the spirit with the name....... "Window weld" And making it look like it is a weld bead......... keep moving with it.... and you can't clean it ... or touch it...... I used to be able to get this to look pretty nice.......... even on a white car it would look good...... I think I had to do about five windshields...... in those cars.......... one of then I did twice.......(had the car so freakin' long.... needed another one) MIcky

I always carry a spare set of belts in the back of the car.... and seems like the driver side belt is the breaker.... I have yet to see the smaller belt brake.... I like to run with the cover fronts off... yes, and even behind the crank pulley...(no cover)..... This makes it a quick change when they break..........(non-interferance motor....) so no covers... for me.... but, if you have covers on.... you have to loosen the crank bolt......... I have put a nice socket on there. with a long bar on it.... get it up against the frame...... remove the coil wire from distributor.... and on quick turn of the ignition key,,,,, usually loosens the crank bolt... you are using the turning of the motor to loosen the crank bolt.....(just don't hold the key... just a quick turn of ign. key..) Also..... changing the tensioners........ makes for a nice quiet motor......... Do the water pump while you are there.

Hi, Title says it all..... She starts right up..... Actually was sitting..... for a month.....(before today) turn key..... let pump pressurize..... turn key to start....... starts right up.... let the key go to the run position.... and she dies....(cuts right out.) If you hold the key in the start position.... she will continue to run......(not a good thing to do... but, ....) So this first appeared as an intermittent problem.......(like almost it was missing(misfire)... running on four... I mean three.. or two .. cylinders).. But, now....... it is not intermittent.... thanks Micky

Thanks! I was looking to see if there was any motors in my area...... Looks rather grim.... ( was looking for turbo motors) So what would entail to change over to NON-turbo. Say 2.5L non-turbo......... Seems like it would be alot........ anyone versed in this type of modification?

Motor is a 2.5L Turbo.......