mickytrus

Hi, Possible free bee coming my way.. nice couple of people.. car taken care of.... It just started blowing white smoke from what I understand... still drives...... I would go and pick it up... I would drive it about thirty miles... from what I understand... they returned from a trip.. when it began to behave like this. drove home who knows one hundred miles... it did not overheat.. just smoking... I figure:::: thirty miles more back to my place fill radiator... cross my fingers... remove thermostat if necessary... I am figuring.. a regasket job... Oem gaskets.. head surfacing... what are your thoughts? reccomendations? ........ what about OEM EQUIVALENT :::::: Oshino gasket sets for 05 2.5L motors?

Yeah, Very True. I hate being compromised.... Like having to freakin' drive it around....... All under the cover........ Really, feeling like I should let it sit there and see if it.......(sits there)....... there are lot's of deals out there.... I especially like them for nothing...... and at price like what he is asking.... I need to give it a run for it's money...(It's a $400.00 car) Not up some backroad and to the turn around and back...... Yeah, I think I will wait this one out... see what happens.... **** In terms of the era of 2.5L motors in these Outbacks..... When did Third Generation Start? Anything after (year) 2000? And in terms of Leaking head gaskets???? or leaks in general on The Third Gens.... are we just seeing External leaks...(not Internal) Thanks , Micky

SO like They are leakers? Like Serious Drippers Gushers???? Anything like the old 1.8L from the GL DL Loyale era? Leaking like MAD! What about Internal Leaks???? Into the Like oil into the coolant... OOOORRRR Coolant getting burned in combustion chamber..... I forgot to mention..... That the Coolant OverFlow was filled above the line..... (It was higher that what is should be) Meaning - looked like it was overfilled recently...... Yeah, I am being paranoid........ But, Seems good reason to be............ Last year... I was able to get a 1998..... that needed work.... for about $400.00 I don't mind doing headgaskets but, I would have to get the car for almost nothing to make it worth my while............ He said he would let me Jack it up. to look under it.......... HEY, what about cracked heads..... are these motors inclined to stuff like that? If I have to walk away from the car...... I don't mind...... I wasn't really looking for a car... This just sorta appeared in my view....... But, yeah, If you's can give me specifics on this vehicle..... maybe, I can get it for next to nothing.... or just walk away.............. or find that is sits for three months and then get it for nothing... THanks, MIcky

Hello, I just went and looked at a 2003 Outback that is for sale.... 163,000 miles 2.5L five speed. I would like to know what I should be looking out for........ LIKE what ghosts may lurk!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Recent Repairs:::::::: New rotors and pads on the front ... new pads on the rear Rear Sway bar links Rear Exhaust after Cat is new..... O2 sensors (because there was a light on) An oil change..... I wonder about the antifreeze(???????????????) It looks brand new......... he didn't mention anything about the antifreeze....... HERE IS THE STORY Car was acquired due to some kind of business arrangement....(this is what I was told anyway) Honestly, I feel spooked a little by this........ Supposedly....... The sellers Son acquired the vehicle...... They made these fixes to it.... But, they are selling it?????? It is being sold locally and privately. Not by a dealer...... Just sitting out in the front of someones yard for sale...(though) not the address/owner of the vehicle..... So, it seems weird ..... why dump the money into these couple of repairs..... and then sell the car? It currently is not registered..... though there are stickers on the window. Which I should take a closer look at...... Asking price is like 1800.00 or best offer... definitely needs a set of tires...... I was figuring that I would probably have to put a timing belt in..... (as a good preventative) What is the timing belt intervals? Is it 100k out of first belt then 60K there after ? OR is it 60k for Timing belts whether or not OEM....??? He said, the oil was changed.. Well, I checked... yeah, It looks like it was changed but, it was low on the dip stick..... I was thinking I should start it up with the radiator cap off......( the coolant over flow looks pretty clean) not oily AND.... Overall the car is really really clean... doesn't even stink inside car.. Typical subie rust on rear wheel wells. Even the engine compartment is really really clean (almost too clean) but, it doesn't really look like someone went in and cleaned it....... I have not driven it yet..... Technically, it is not on the road....... but, It must be driven........... I started it up...... It has a little bit of an initial Subie knock to it that goes away quickly..... and the clutch seemed pretty good. Please give a good read to what I have written... And let me know what you think........... And let me know what I should BEWARE of and look out for Thanks, MIcky

I was thinking too.... make sure your shift linkage does not have excessive play.... If vehicle is not moving... and in neutral.. if you push clutch in.... will it shift into gears? all the gears(keeping clutch pressed to floor)?

Yeah,,,,, Greeze it up! but,, These are not rotating parts..... so don't over do it. with the grease(clutches hate it!)...... Some wheel bearing grease it goood..... All I drive are sticks...... So I have never had issues..... like this(you are talking about)..... and I have never replaced any of those parts......... (just what's in the clutch kit)..... I have run these creatures(old gens) to over 300,ooo miles Just to say.... If it apart replace everything..... (that you have not replaced yet) And I have seen weirder coincidences:::: Meaning... You push in the clutch and sound goes away.... May possibly not have to do with the clutch parts...... ( I have seen weld joints that are failing - creek like your sound. not to say that is what you issue is) but to say ,,, replace all that was not initially replaced.... and see.... don't have super expectations... just see and go from there....... good luck with it.......... Micky

Yeah, She is all good! Pedal felt really nice this morning.... I will get back to rust prevention now....... I should be able to wrap this up ..... Start using this car again... I would like to run the buffer on her..... and pop the interior door panels off and hit the inside joints on the doors with cavity wax... Stuff works wonders! Peace, Micky

Oh! That's funny!....... yeah.. no rust.... I was able to use the junction below........ This car sadly spent a couple years up in the north country.... NY.... So it got douched with salt for about two years....... As for before that .... Southern PA... Other than that it is very clean....So everything is coming apart ok throughout the car..... I am Anti-seizing(where applicable) and using rust preventative measures anywhere I can ANd then!!!!!!!!! out to the salt you go!

Any gurgling in the heater core when you start it up cold?(audible in vehicle)swish swish....... and what are outside temps, currently? Leaking compression causes bad circulation....pressure in cooling system[can't circulate].... That is what GD is speculating on..... Based on his experience......(correct me if I am wrong) I have seen this on some of my diesels....... and I had it in an old loyale.... (I actually yanked the thermostat [on a loyale] for a little while.. it helped just drove locally..... fixed when it was timely for me)

So what about the possibility ( I know I wouldn't want to hear this what I am about to write) That there is something up with the clutch disc........ there two different types of springs in a clutch disc..... the wafer spring (which I can't see it being that) the torsional coil springs (that is what I am being hypothetical about) (cuz your sound is schrill like; almost like the sound on a black board when someone scratches the black board but, reall fast! back and forth at about 800 rpm) and the only reason I look at being hypothetical about the clutch disc Is I can imagine a pressure plate chirping...(just too much tension -- but check the torque on the the bolts to the flywheel anyway) pilot bearing(spigot bearing) if clutch is engaged (even in neutral) it is not spinning...... It will only spin a little while disengaged. So you just put this kit in only 5k ago?(3.2miles for us stone-age Neanderthal measurers) And it is clear in your mind... that the sound was not a prior sound of the vehicle(before purchased (and the only reason I say this is that I am not there and I am listening to a video A nice video, but a video "none the less") Technology is a good thing.... but, it in not the real thing.......... Hope they never think to replace meat and potatoes! Thanks, Micky

Just did a two person bleed... Did all four calipers,,,,,,,,,, left rear had a little nice audible sound of (jzzzzzsprkktttt!) [air] Got a pedal , seems like it is a consistent pedal height while pressing.. BUT NOT SUPER HIGH (like I am used to, though) (what is other people's pedal height like?) I am not used to having rear disc, not complaining...... Some change in life is good.... I will check the pedal height tomorrow.... It feels as ok enough that I would now at least drive the vehicle to see how it behaves on the road... She is up on Jack stands at the moment with the wheels off..... I am still in the process of winter preparations for mean ol' nasty "Mr.Salty" Thanks, Micky

THanks for the feed back........... I'll keep at it..... I picked up another quart of fluid...... I am in the process of gravity dripping it.... and then I will Have someone pump up the brakes and bleed it that way as well........ I did replace three calipers about 3k ago..... only one is original (still had it's condom) We proceed onward Micky

Apologies for the vague reply.... Was on my phone.... couldn't type much more... I like the tool above and would consider something like that...... basically. looks like the tool, turns brake bleeding into a one person job....... I have been using the two person method.......... Has been ok...... though, the second party involved in the brake bleeding sometimes gets impatient and complains. The rear lines where separated... system was open for several hours but, the brake reservoir cap was on.... Some fluid lead out.... not a ton of fluid leaked out??????? maybe two ounces or so.......... Anyway, I don't really want to go and buy some aftermarket Brake Master Cylinder....(that has a predetermined expiration date, probably) (**** and I have never replaced a brake master ever in my life of driving Subies --- This is the Sixth Subie to own) Soooooooo I have to try and run more than a quart of fluid through the lines........... SOOOO I am off to buy more brak fluid..... NOW, The Subies I have owned are all Old GENS..... Do these OUTBACK Master Cylinders Go bad Is it a common problem Let Me know? I Thanks, Micky

No leaks... Beautiful

there are a couple of things to determine the year of the motor... I kinda went through this recently.... I was trying to determine mine was 1998....... 95 96 97 98 Checking if you have a two piece timing belt tensioner 95 96 I believe used a two piece tensioner on the timing belt 97 98 was a one piece tensioner When I got valve cover gaskets I was asked for my production year.... due to a change in the valve cover gasket somewhere along in the 98 production year.... The valve cover is slightly different on 97 - 98 That is all I know off hand..........

How long have you had to put up with the chirp sound..... (in mileage)

SOOOOOOOOOOOO ,,,,, I pulled this car in the garage..... I don't know .... maybe two weeks ago........... AND things have certainly mushroomed....... WHich happens........... Prior to this I figured I had a leak in the brake system........Cuz I had to add fluid on two ocassions AND I mean brakes where ok..(was stopping ok)...... Though the rear brakes where not squeezing like they should....... (indicated by rear discs not being shiny) SOOoooo,, I replaced both brake lines in the rear(rear driver's side rotted out) with the lovely NICOPP stuff....... thanks for the tip.... nice stuff.... I replaced them right from the spot where both lines pop down through the rear floor on passenger side below rear seat..... The existing brass junction,,, I was able to reuse.... ran the lines back from there to the Flexies...... MY DEBACLE:::: I can't seem to get a brake pedal........ I bled the air from all the wheels........... QUESTION???? What about this ABS unit........ Can I bleed this thing???????? I haven't needed to in the past..... I put calipers on.... did just a standard bleeding OTHERWISE:::: THen I feel the master cylinder is bad..... (but, I drove it in the garage... It was ok) Your thoughts Thanks, Micky

Don't worry about having too much free play.... (only that it could affect shifting ,,, at some point) you need distance between throwout bearing and clutch,,, when the bearing is not in use......(which is when the clutch is not in use.....) You can put some lube on the shaft when you do a reinstall.........(there may be a spec for how much side to side play a throwout bearing has on the sleeve.I don't know it... And this is not a mission critical thing.... [Maybe it would get "out of round" over time - the sleeve]..) What is the mileage on these parts/car?

So if it is a tiny bit and then the chirping goes away..... The key is to determine.......... the distance of "free play".. (which is just the distance from the "at rest" location of the throw out bearing..... to when it first touches the diaphram spring of the pressure plate.....) My hunch is that it is not the throw out bearing....... perhaps, the clip that holds the shifter fork to the ball...... It is easier to feel "free play" with your hand on the clutch pedal..... I would even go so far as pulling up with your hand on the pedal... see if that changes things....(probably not... but, good to establish either way) so after pulling up with your hand bring it down to the point of tension... The distance your hand travels is the "free play"... Listen for the sound..... during this process.. see if you can push clutch with your hand into the release process... and make sound go away.... No different than a foot.... but, just trying to establish..."at which point does it infact disappear..... and also what if you hold the fork with your hand while vehicle idles???

how far in do you have to push the clutch in to notice the lack of chirping....

Dig it! THanks!

Nice work there..... no rust under that car....... pretty nice......... We humans over here,,,,, We exhale rust! Micky

Is there a spring on the fork ( Clutch fork return spring) This spring pulls the fork back to a rest position so that the throw out bearing can maintain it's distance from the clutch diaphragm spring I hear what you are talking about..... and saw your statement, that it goes away when you push the clutch in... Does this behavior.... always exist???? like when car is cold car is hot...... at night... during day etc etc.....

Thanks!.... I listened and I think if you were to determine at what point in the vid (location range is seconds) you want to address... that would make sense... I hear a high chirp at about 6 seconds in... I also hear something later in the vid towards the end.... That aspect with you looking in the clutch disengagement system..... Did you notice any change in your noise whie pushing the clutch in and out repetitively?..... The sound that I am about to refer to.... (the one at 6 sec)......... to me is a creaking kind of sound....... maybe even (am I am only speculating) a weld joint which cracked..... (IE: in part of the exhaust system) Also:::::::: Something to try .... Something to think about....... "Can you create the scenario to produce the chirp" "Can you change something to stop the chirp" Without actually determining what it cause is....................... Can (you) either have a Positive or negative affect on it......... Micky

I would wait on a battery...... First,, do a simple test........ loosen positive battery terminal(with car off -- and make sure car was previously running) start car...... let Idle a minute or two or three... now while idling..... lift positive cable terminal off the battery post.......... Does it continue to run????? or does it stall.....????? If it continues to run........ then the alternator is providing enough power to run the vehicle.....