mickytrus

In your video you mention a link to actually hearing your chirping.......... Is that link posted somewhere already.... I haven't seen where to access it....... The throw out bearing does not sit against the clutch Diaphram Spring...... Continuously..... (if it was to do this it would overheat the bearing and prematurely wear it out) You can have some lube on your moving parts in there Throw out bearing fork ball (lube) Throw out bearing fork fingers (lube) and when where throw out bearing slides on sleeve on input shaft of tranny (some lube) a nice film... don't over do it....... But, yeah...................... I would like to hear you chirp........ My cars we made a joke about a chirp I get...... I be damned! if I could figure it out.... Then one day it came to me....... but, we said.....when we heard the chirping that the "wild turkey is back!" and it did it sounded like that and it sounded like it was coming from the clutch area I always thought it was the throw out bearing....... NOW my sound was only hear at driving speeds...... not in neutral idling.... Mine turned out to be......... The electric radiator cooling fan....... and this would only happen in the winter.... what was happening the fan would get blasted with road wind and spin on its own and that was making the turkey chirp sound......... I would like to hear your chirp video Thanks, MIcky

Yeah, Sooooo..... It followed with my thoughts above (see blurb :: Here is a thought) So it is on there torqued to 20 ftlbs Aye, let me know what you think..... THanks, Micky

REPLYING TO:::::::::: is it a locking nut..... ?????????????? DESCRIPTION OF THE NUT: It is the nut that was on the tierod end before I disassembled it. The nut is rounded on the one side(top) The nut is Flat on the tightening (down) side I would have to say that from the experience with locking nuts I have used/been exposed to in the past (IE: exhaust manifold nuts on VW A2 1.6L Diesels) THAT This tierod end nut has a similar look to it........ (here is a thought) When I thread the nut on..... I can verify/determine,,,,, if there is any resistance.... If there is resistance while threading it on (at that moment and then there after) where the threads of rounded side of nut begin to thread onto the tierod, Can We say,,,,, this is a good indication that the functionality of the locking nut aspect of this nut is still acceptable? *****(with all things being considered ie: rusty stuff tends to be stiff and not thread together well anyway) [ I will clean it up with wire brushes before assembly] And yeah, I suppose I could thread some thread locker on there.... Blue? Green? Red? Thanks, Micky

Ok, THanks! Yeah, not a problem getting 150 on my torque wrench........ got plenty of snipes around........ My fav snipe being an ol' piece of one inch brass water line from back in the day. though six footer is piece of galvanized As for this tierod end nut....... not a cotter pin........... It is ok just to use it again?

Hey, Just looking for some torque specifications... So I can put this driver's side back together... Axle nut torque ? Lower ball joint ? Tierod end ? (TieRod end nut is not a castle nut, not cotter pin) REUSABLE????? where to get a new nut Tierod end is still fine..... Thanks, Micky

So,,,,,, Looks like I gotta rip one side completely down.......... Wheel bearings are toasted...... So I have some questionsss?????? What is the size of the axle nut? (what is the torque on it too) I think I got this covered 32MM Can I reuse the nut? What about the tierod end nut ,,,,,,,,, It's not a castle nut(as what I am used to seeing) Can TIe Rod nut be reused?????? What about the hub.............. Car has 170K on it....... Basically What is the best way to go about this I have seen some sorta wheel hub kits out there..... Let me know what you think! Thanks, Micky

Much Thanks!.... I will prepare fo' the worst and strive fo' the best! I'll soak them with some PbBlaster.... for a little while... and yeah make sure my tank eZ got some Acetylene in it...... Hopefully, I can Wrangle it out without the tool.... But, a nice tool it is at that!...... good to know....... Micky

Aye, I was just wondering......... I have done a ton of the ball joints on Loyales..... Not really much different....... (the vehicle is a 98 Outback) The only thing here...... Is that in the past I would pull the whole shaft and steering knuckle out of the vehicle and sorta do a complete disassembly............ etc etc...... WHat I would like to currently do in this situation with the Outback:::::::::::::::::::::::::; IS not remove the steering knuckle(hub assembly) or shaft ........ can you fill me in ...... Is there a method/procedure to just separate lower ball joint from control arm... and remove it from the steering knuckle with out doing anything else(or close to )..... Currrently::::::: I have the car up on stands.... all the tires are removed.... I am giving this ol' girl a "Belly Rub" for the winter climate conditions Thanks, MIcky

Hey, Thanks for all the input..... I will write up how it goes.... Got the line coming......... wish I could have found the NICOPP black oxide fittings somewhere....... I will call my local favorite supplier and see what they offer..... probably just zinc coated........... I like the idea of tubing that I don't have to fight to flare it....... Just have to be careful not to "maul" the stuff... due to it being soft.... Thanks, Micky

Thanks! yeah, I will get a roll of that copper nickel brake line..... I am striving to put another 100k on this car... These are the "Double Flare" connections.... I am figuring........... NOT "Bubble Flare" ,,,, Correct?????

Yeah, by all means.........(know the vehicle)............... check the oil frequently...... check the coolant......... monitor it's behavior......... and observe............... I got to hear some stuff today on a boxer motor that I have..(1.8L)..291k....... It is so cold out...here........ Got to hear gurgling in the heating system when I first started it up................. I may be due....... soon........ I just warm the car up to operating temp before........ getting the REV's up.......... that seems to help for the time being............. It is best to not open Pandora's box........ If the gaskets are not leaking just watch and observe....... I have had 5 - 1.8L......(five different cars)..... one motor made it to 220k without leaking.... some leaked oil... some leaked coolant.... some leaked both..........

Yeah, determine if vehicle is throwing any codes.... It is not OBDII but...... (not actually familiar) with but.... I probably does the blinking lite gig... when you turn key... Determine where the blinking lite location is of your OBC2......... I had old Loyaless.... they had the blinking lite gig..... had to remove panel below steering column... but,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Ask where your is..... If bad knock sensor......... I would think you would have a blinking lite code for that active in your OBC2..... I got one on the EEEEEE buh aye......... rather cheap.......(knock sensor)

Neutral safety switch? I haven't had an auto matic in years....... but, that would be my inclination.

Aye! Hello to all and Happy New Year! Spent my evening in the garage.... blistering cold here..... Anyway, I was wondering why my rear brakes were not really working well.... seemed that the rotors were not cleaning up.... the car sat for ages... and rear rotors were rather rusty...... So my answer for the lame rear brakes is rear rotted brake line syndrome........... It is the driverside that is actually leaking...... What I would like to know...... Is what people have been doing to reroute these puppies...... (they run over the top of the fuel tank) looks like they drop down on the passenger side (from inside) ( I guess there are two lines because of the ABS) So please chime in....... make my life easier here..... Thanks! Micky

It has drum brakes... I believe it is three piece... two bearings one outer race... One thing is that I gave then machine shop 2 swing arms..... My thoughts are that,,,,,, they didn't even press out the outer race. just left it in there.... The reason I say this... is because when I actually got the swing arms back........ the Swing arm that I was not using ,(the donor),,,,, still had the outer race in it.... Hence, they just popped out the outer bearing and spined stubbed shaft and put it in the desired(to be used) swing arm. With this in mind....(During disassembly) I had a really tough time getting the drum off....... I blunted the end of the splined stubbed shaft with a sledge hammer(literally distorted its shape) I am thinking all the hammering I did(to get the drum off)..... possibly moved the bearing assembly unit inward(particularily the outer race) To me this sounds like the explanation of this situation.... Is this possible? which side does the out race press in from?? (is it the inside(axle shaft side of swing arm?) So this misalignment???? how will this play into the life of things?(meaning the life of this bearing??? Is the outer bearing seated properly in it's outer race(being that the outer race is apprx. 1/4" in deeper????? Thanks, Micky

I did drop off two swing arms to the machine shop.... and A driverside swing arm was the location of the donor axle bearing..... for the passenger side(to be used/installed) swing arm... too many (duplicate) parts on the tool bench top at once????

Right,,,, It should sucked in towards the hex nut when tightened(I would think???) So, if you could enlighten me on this here (see below)... The collar(bearing retainer nut?) on the inside of swing arm(where you would use special tool#(xxxxx) but, a punch be could be used instead..... (possibly by shade tree mechs) After the collar has been removed, then,,, and only in the direction towards where the collar threads in, is the only way to get the bearing out? (the way the bearing is purchased is on piece, it is pressed in as one piece --- it is a self contained unit of two independant tapered roller bearing it can't be separated) If someone can explain the process of bearing removal and installation it would be appreciated... My concern is.... where the stop is for the bearing.....

it's like the shaft is 5/16" in.... No dice on lining up the holes with the axle nut. and 200 foot pounds is not sucking the shaft out towards the nut. So I resulted in not putting the crush washer on....(not really a solution) I drove it a bunch maybe fifty miles... checked it today... it is still the same.... I even removed the nut put a new cotter pin in it.........today........ Micky

I spend alot of munnie and time on Preventative rust stufff........ That is the only reason this car survives to this day..... I anti-sieze practically everything............ even clips...... If I can't coat it...... I throw anti-sieze on it........... I am really digging "cavity waxes" these days...... "they boldly go where others have not gone before" ----

Naah that stuff was beautiful.... But, I must say everything is rust here..... If it is not rust then it is mold......... I just got the the car back together........ Sadly, I had to buy a new axle......... AXLEsssss were not going to come out of the graveyard in one piece.... I was even torching them up with heat...( to much meat) And I had to hire the muscle of the "machine shop" to yank a growlie bearing out of the passenger side swing arm that I scavenged from "The Jackson Ho!"(A recent Lawn ornament) and then a close to new bearing from a driveside swing arm out of "Trixie"(Spirit - Parts pile) So not the end of the world(perhaps, "A new lease on life for 'Ho-tel' " I got 'Ho-tel' all together but but but,,,,,, The double spline shaft.......... must not be pressed at the correct location...(machine shop--blame them).....(which I don't understand - when I put the shaft on.... I sorta looked ok) ANYWAY, MY CURRENT DILEMMA.... I torqued the axle to 200 FT LBS... I couldn't get the the cotter pin in... Initially, thought I over shot my destination...... IN SHORT:::::::::: The only way to get the cotter pin in was.... TO NOT USE THE CRUSH WASHER>>>> Pretty damn annoying... I must say.............. SO WHAT DO YOU THINK I SHOULD DO.....????? Driving around with no crush washer on back pass axle....... I will check it every now and then.........(All the even miles) THanks, MIcky

So I managed to dismantle the mess.... Came apart like butter....... I saw there was anti-seize up on the front swing arm mount bolt..... "I mustah been here before" Yeah, Memory escaped me but, I swapped out this swing arm, I think about at least 100k ago.......... That explains it..... The swing arm has probably about 400k on it..... I remember the bearing going bad...... so I swapped it out with a swing arm that had a new bearing in it... Stuff doesn't last forever... This is the proof of that!!!.... In the salty Northeast..... where they salt the roads (now they are spraying the salt on them before suspected storms) Driver's side swing arm looks great.... Gives me piece of mind....... To go ahead with swapping out another one........ Yeah, the axle was a victim of this swing arm atrocity...... Micky

I bang them in with some sockets that are on the large size..... I tap them out with the end of a ball joint pickling fork......... tapping from side to side gradually getting them out..... I set the hub on some 4"x8"x16" solid cinder blocks.... sorta pinning the hub.. (kinda resting on brake caliper mount and tie rod mount arm . and using gravity and tapping downward.

THanks! good to know.. and something to think about...... Has anyone ever replaced one themselves.....???? looking to know what it was like.... I have done three or four on loyales....... (using quality window weld products) haven't had any leaks.... lasted year and years...

Yeah, I think the swing arm rotted out from the inside out......(I rust treat and paint like with the onset of every winter season) I am going to break it down today... It is in the garage.... Initially, when I looked under ,,,,,, the CV joint was all broke apart grease slung everywhere.... but yeah, It behaves like a broken limb..... the wheel/hub must be hanging on by like one strip of metal

AYe, 98 legacy outback...... In direct sun........ window is a little difficult to see through........ If the windshield was a pair of safety glasses, I would get a new pair..... It is the original windshield, it does not leak..... not rust around the pillars.... no reason to open Pandora's box...... Has anyone buffed a windshield before........?????? Any recommendations?????? Products.... or How to go about this? Thanks , Micky