mickytrus

Put in the new rear struts with new mounts..... Vehicle is 99% better...... There is a slight shake in the steering at high speeds....... Like around 75.... and the it disappears at higher speeds... Any suggestions on front shimmy.............( could even be a tire I am guessing) Tires don't have any kind of stupid wear on the..... they are not brand new.... but, they are a good quality tire..... maybe 5 to 10 k on them............ new front brakes...... new calipers and new rotors....... Micky

Yeah this is true Ido... I bet mine would have lasted the life of the car... They weren't rusted at all... and the were heavier gauge steel than the new KYB's..... But, I said..... let's put the new ones in anyway.... I had some weird shaking going on.... So why find that I still have the shaking..... I did keep the old one's you never know... Good to have spare parts...... SOOO,,,,, yeah....no more shaking over the bumps in the road.......... nice ride now..... not overly stiff but, Sturdy........ Those old struts were sooooooooo bad.... I have never seen struts so shot........... I am figuring that the excessive travel perhaps was causing all the shaking......... Rear sway bar bushing(on the C looking part) could be replace......... Has anyone changed those out??????? THanks, Micky

Ok, Thank you very much........ I will be using the new mounts I have ordered........ Best to not be "Penny wise and Dollar FOOLISH" Hate doing things twice....... How about the best place for prices for KYB excel / GR2 struts????? Any suggestions.... I still have to purchase new fronts..... and new mounts for the front Thanks, Micky

Thanks!... I got one coming for Mon........

Yeah, Just wondering..... I just got some nice strut mounts in the mail KYB.... This would be a 98 Outback.... The mounts were near 100 bucks for the pair....... Do they really go bad??????????????? they look like just one piece of metal........... Micky

Thanks! So, local replacement parts store....... reputable..... wants like 80 bucks for a knock sensor...... Why such a difference in price?????????? What is so great about the $80.00 dollar one (besides it's price)......??? Thanks, Micky

'Ello, Got a CEL..... It has been on since I purchased the vehicle. There was one occasion where I started the vehicle and it was not lit up (engine was cold not warmed up) I drove it for a mile (no light on). Went into the auto parts store(where else would I be going!) came back out and it was on imediately upon starting vehicle....... I have put almost 1000 mile on Pearl since I fixed the bent intake valves and new timing belt...... Some 300 mile road trips...... So anyway, yesterday's road trip,,, in about 200 miles.... The light started blinking.(this never happened before)...(a slow blink, which lasted for only about one minute. maybe light blinked twenty times) I finally got to scan it this morning Here is what came up on first scan P0304 (Power Train) Cylinder 4 misfire P0325 (Power Train) Knock Sensor 1 circuits or single sensor P0505 (Power Train) Idle Control System I then cleared the codes.................. Codes disappeared as well as the light went out....... then I scanned it a second time...... Here is what came up on Second Scan P0325 (Power Train) Knock Sensor 1 Circuit or Single Sensor (just the one code came up on second scan) AND After clearing codes the second time....... The Check Engine Light would not go out ......... after clearing.... Summary I will have find out where the Knock sensor is...... (my guess, is that it is a sensor that changes ignition timing) Aye, Maybe there is a bad connection???? Anyway, if you's could enlighten me in any possible way here... it would be muchly appreciated.... Thanks, Micky

Thanks! All good points..... Yeah, I should just take a quick look at motor mounts... make sure they are tight.... I will try and CROW up the tranz...... I got some Rear KYB's Coming with new mounts as well. ( Hoping I can get away with not doing the fronts Or maybe they were done in the car's past life) It does feel like the VIB-ing starts in the rear..... Struts in rear are pretty bad..... I can't believe how costly struts and mounts are........ What happened to the days when you could fix your car and still have money to eat? Micky

Oh yeah..... Pearl is a 98 Outback with a 2.2L

Aye, Got about 400 miles on her(Pearl) Since I installed the new intake valves.... I don't know if this problem existed before the T-belt snapped(only had car for a brief moment before it snapped) Engine mounts were loosened and upper bar to firewall was loosened as well during motor rehab(bent valves) process Here is the situation... There is shaking when going over bumps in the road. And I mean,,, not really significant bumps either........ Like the bumps I have noticed are like (slow lane highway) truck wear out bumps..... Or like just bad concrete expansion joints on the highway........ It really feels to me like it's in the middle of the vehicle... where the shake emanates...... I went under and moved/wiggled the tailshaft around from side to side on the tranny It moves around, it isn't like the mount rubber is broken or torn...... But, I would say the mount is very flexible...(stretchyish)... soft sort of.....(but not to touch --- as far as I know -- I have not pressed on them with my fingers) Simply said, I can move the tranny tail shaft from side side an noticeable amount(to the eyeball) Any thoughts Thanks, Micky

Interesting, all said.... Yeah, cheers. for KYB..... I have two VW Jettas... (diesel).... I purchased them years and years apart..... both used both MK2 series. The first one I installed KYBs........ Second one..... like a year ago..... installed the Monroes..... I much rather would have chosen the KYB's and if it aggravates me enough I will put the KYBs in the second car that has the Monroes. The Monroes were/are rather stiff (it felt like I was crashing into every concrete expansion joint on the interstate) So thanks!.... I will get KYB's, new mounts for the front and give the car a good look over(regarding how it sits) and go from there.... & I am thinking my springs will be fine....... Thanks, Micky

Thanks! Yeah, it certainly was a nervewracking experience. I will look tomorrow..at the Outback . I think my Loyale's (have three Loyales but, only one is still amongst the living others-" yard planters") Had theirs mounted in that fashion.... If the outback doesn't have that bracket, I will have to swipe it from one of the "yard planters"...... and that would be cool! When cars share their parts... then their spirits get to live on! thanks Micky

Aye! Now that the car is moving. It is time for fixing the struts.. I am asking for what you like and why you Chose whatever for struts you have for your car. the car that needs struts is a 98 outback. I will do the rears first but, it probably needs all four.... The car seems to sit well...despite the bouncey ride what makes sense.???? . do they sell a strut with the spring? I can buy it either Way.. I have spring compressors.... Can some new springs bring it up higher? Like another inch or so?... Thanks, Micky

Well, she is running. got about 25 miles on her. Seems to be running well.. Was stalling out a couple times...... strange@#$??? May have been a vacuum leak.. found a rubber cap/plug all cracked,,, replaced it... it was a 1/8" vacuum tap on the intake manifold sorta near pcv valve. downstream about two inches towards passengerside head... I don't know why the taping is there, wondering if anyone might know? Also, I could not remember where the battery ground wire bolts to? Where should it be bolted to? I bolted it through intake manifold bolt (one closest to firewall) I just was drawing a blank.. on that one. Thanks, Micky

Dig it! Thanks! Hopefully, she'll be motoring again real soon....... Updates are forthcoming.........

Thanks! Gloyale. on the part, [[[ loosen all bolts 180 degrees, basically til loose, no torque ]]] Start with center bolts? (loosening) 180 degrees/ (half turn counter clockwise) (bolts will actually be loose on just a half of a turn?) { This half turn CC will yield a no torque bolt ] Got the idea on the rest of it...... Thanks, Micky

Tomorrow I will install the Heads on the 2.2L Could someone give me their explanation of what they are doing to torque the heads?(all I got is the Hayes book... It's pretty much a headache to use the book) What is the acceptable method in the forum for torquing the heads on .... torque sequence (and loosen then tightening process) Thanks, Micky

Are you's familiar with ROLOC 3M Bristle Brushes.....??? I have been using them for quite sometime now.... great for cleaning gasket material off..... I will use this on the block surface.... Been using it to clean EA82 blocks It gives exceptional results...... https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/629878O/3m-roloc-bristle-discs.pdf Micky

Update Regarding 11mm x 1.25 and 7/16" fine thread: I did find several 7/16" fine thread nuts (in the collection of haphazard remnants in my garage of the piles of stuff from "Completed Jobs Gone By" The stuff ----- that I have no idea if I will ever use it again). The nuts thread on nicely onto the 11mm x 1.25 Head bolts. So I will be able to use these 7/16" nuts with fine thread to deburr the 11mm x 1.25 Head bolts that will be used as Homemade thread chasers..(rather than waiting because I had to order them(11mmx1,25 nuts) somewhere(ie:fastenal).. Aye,I just want to thank everybody again for their help / chiming in and thanks to the forum, for being this community of minds that are willing to draw off of each other's knowledge and experience(and those offering their minds) for the benefit of all those that want to extend the life of these machines.... I am not near finished with this work on this car... but, I am getting close to reassembly of the damaged heads onto the block. I replaced all eight intake valves. picked up a nice timing belt with integrated assembly and water pump kit today. Will resurface the heads tomorrow on some 150 grit. AND will drive out Sunday to the car which is about four hours away to do the reassembly. I will keep this thread going until completion of the work. And I know I still have lots more questions to ask to the forum regarding assembly of this EJ22. Thanks, MIcky

Thanks for , Chiming in IDO...... Yeah, I dug one up..... EA82 head bolts..... There is half the amount of thread on an EA82 head bolt as compared to an EJ22 Head bolt. So, I am figuring, it won't clean/run the whole depth of the EJ22 block to clean the threads..... Thanks for , Chiming in IDO...... So I have been looking for nuts to run on an 11mm x 1.25 Head bolt...... I am not having any success.... I was going to Use these nuts to run on the "Homemade head bolt chaser" to deburr them after I stick a groove in the headbolt(as previously described in this post)..... So,,,,,,,, any suggestions......?????????????????????? Side note:(a brain draining) I ended up having some sad stuff go down with an EA82 motor once(still driving the car, actually) CHECK THIS OUT.....:::::::::: So head bolts would not tighten to the proper torque.... matter of fact........ (I would say in simple terms the threads in the block became stripped) I ended up getting some E8 7/16" fine thread,,,, threaded rod...(from Fastenal [ I should call them for 11mm x 1.25 nuts)... I ran that in the stripped block threads and held the head on with nuts.... used the regular head bolts in the locations where I could...... threaded rod in the others.... Torqued to the desired Specification....... (bake @ 350 degrees 45 minutes.. ..) So why am I bringing this up??? Well, 7/16" fine thread (I will have to check) is almost the same thread...(like at some point is not...14 threads in or 20...something like that for just one thread..)... It is very possible that the nut for the 7/16" threaded rod will be able to thread on and deburr the 11mm x 1.25 "Homemade Chaser Head Bolt" I think I may still have some of those nuts....... I will post about the 7/16" fine threaded nuts and 11mm x 1.25 comparison.... I have to see where I put these nuts.....If I still had any left...... (always, buy extra... that is my motto)

Known as Dowel Pins (sorta pricey -just under four bucks a piece) - I bought five...... good to have some around (I think). I guess I will have to start a new box for EJ22 Stuff.... (Sadly, will be phasing out EA82 stuff...... but, I think I got another 20K on my "Last Loyale"(Sounds like a romance novel title) to go... She runs really well Spry ol' girl she is) Micky

Ok, I will get some.... good to have extras..... they can't cost much...... Just the waiting.... for them.... but, yeah, Makes sense...... I mean yeah "they are there for a reason", right? And as your are saying GL66.... Prevents movement and Alignment....... Allowing the bolt/bolts to not have to fight gravity... Yeah, If GD could chime in, regarding the many reasons why they did the sleeves. I think there are many.............. Just wondering....... AND Be good to know about these head bolts......... The question below is still out ..... for some answers..... Anyone know about these head bolts below being similiar in width and pitch??????????????????? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** EJ22 Head bolts are as IDO mentioned earlier M11x1.25 pitch I think EA82 Head bolts are the same(but not as long) I am correct on this???? Anybody out there Chime in on this? (Cuz, I got lots of old EA82 head bolts, that is why I ask -- they would be easier to manuever to use as chaserssssssssssszzzzzzz) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks, Micky

You're Welcome!.... Seems I often come to the screen with food...... Got some OG.Soft Boil Eggs... and Peas... Lot's of butter... Olive oil.... Going to have breakfast..... it's 2:30Am!!! and gotta get to bed......... but, It is important that I post gotta get "Pearl" up and running.......... Sounds great using the bolt that way....... I must say.... a rather brilliant innovation.... Thanks fo' sharin'...... Anyone know about these head bolts below being similiar in width and pitch??????????????????? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** EJ22 Head bolts are as IDO mentioned earlier M11x1.25 pitch I think EA82 Head bolts are the same(but not as long) I am correct on this???? Anybody out there Chime in on this? (Cuz, I got lots of old EA82 head bolts, that is why I ask -- they would be easier to manuever to use as chaserssssssssssszzzzzzz) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Also I don't know what it is called...... but, Let's just call them "Head Retainer Sleeves"(They Stick out of the block like little nipples and then the head kind goes on them takes the initial stress off the bolts while mounting....) Are they absolutely necessary? I believe the answer is Yes they are necessary.....BUT,,,,, I HAVE TO ASK.... (I had one come out with the head on the driver's side.... It was a fight to get it out of the head but, I won....Sorta) I had to destroy it.... to get it out..... I have to go to the dealer tomorrow.... If I have to get one..... It just means that I may have to wait to do the assembly......... Due to not have a "Head Retainer Sleeve..... Thanks, and good night,,,,,,,,,

Your guys know each other, right? I know, that's how we talk to Rrr friend's over 'ere in this part of the North East..... I think this emoticon below is a good representation of the cut (looking a his mouth as the cut) and referring to clockwise as tightening and the emoticon is a crossection of the bolt ( like slicing a hot dog or spicy local made sausage) So this grove/notch???? I can cut it the length of the total threads on the bolt and not cause any trouble?( or just go about 25mm's or less like 12) ** EJ22 Head bolts are as IDO mentioned earlier M11x1.25 pitch I think EA82 Head bolts are the same(but not as long) I am correct on this???? Anybody out there Chime in on this? (Cuz, I got lots of old EA82 head bolts, that is why I ask -- they would be easier to manuever) No worries! We're not at the Deli counter...........By all means Chime in........ As long as it's not for the decent rare roast beef I am currently devouring...... Thanks, Micky

Nice, I had heard of something like that with the head bolts..... and cutting a groove in them. How would I go about that? (you know, doing a nice job cutting a groove in a bolt) Got what your saying on the bolt length versus the block tapings...... Yeah bolts are crazy long...... due to that there is not a cambox sitting/bolted to the head.... It's all in one.