mickytrus

It is not running hot.....

Can I plug an OBDII into it?........ I Don't think so, right? Thanks for all the good feed back / questions.... AND The car no longer will start by just turning the key....... I started it this morning( I only just an now actually get to be with the vehicle) and To start the car I had to put my foot on the gas pedal...... AND There is no... absolutely none..... zeroo......... Fast Idle... And it is not Idling at normal Idle speed........... More like 300 RPM.... Thanks.... I don't think I can plug this pup in.......... I only have an ODBII device.......

Yeah, If you are talking about the heat shields on the wye pipe...... I have had those rattles........ Just loose the heat shield...Find out which one is loose and rattling.... cut it off ... what ever you need to do to lose it......

Aye, A 92 Loyale. 1.8l 5 speed running strong at like 285k..... I haven't been there to see this....... as I am not near the car but, will be this weekend.... and thought I would post beforehand..... It seems to be running fine,,,, but it will stall out..... A good example would be when coasting to a stop(due to being a 5 speed) So if you are at a decent speed, in fifth gear or whatever....... (gettting off the highway.) or even reducing speed due to approaching a traffic lite.... She will Stall..... you have to give it a little gas otherwise stalls......... Any thoughts??????? Like I said, otherwise the car runs strong.. I have had five of these cars....... this one is running as strong as the first day I drove it......... Yes, the CEL is on......... At one point I did get it to go out..... I replaced a part that sits near the thermostat housing....... Thanks, Micky

Aye JUst running it by the group... ( for piece of mind, I guess) Got to see where the little battery lite is located on the dash the other day while driving.(unfortunately) Strange, I drove not even a mile, turned the car off, went inside for about half an hour, came out,,,,, drove the car and found the BAT light and the brake lite to be on while driving...... ( My Loyale's the dash would lite up like a Christmas tree when the alternator would die!) So I drove back another mile,,,,, parked it..... and still while running disconnected positive terminal on the battery momentarily............ Then the car stalled out.......... So I am figuring,,,, something went bad in the alternator............. Just looking for some ,,,,,, group consensus ........... Thanks, Micky

Thanks!... I seem to be in that ball park......... Like around 320 to a tank of fuel.........

so this worked out beautifully..... ten beans..... ten minutes...... no more CEL....... (yeah, knock sensor was in there pretty tight took some serious torque to loosen..I tightened it to 17 ft lbs..)......... and running strong....And I think some good fuel economy.... What can I expect for fuel economy out of a 2.2L in a 1998 Legacy outback L........ with a nice 5 speed???? What size is the gas tank in this vehicle????? Is it possible to seee 30 MPG on highway????? What are you's getting?????

Put in the new rear struts with new mounts..... Vehicle is 99% better...... There is a slight shake in the steering at high speeds....... Like around 75.... and the it disappears at higher speeds... Any suggestions on front shimmy.............( could even be a tire I am guessing) Tires don't have any kind of stupid wear on the..... they are not brand new.... but, they are a good quality tire..... maybe 5 to 10 k on them............ new front brakes...... new calipers and new rotors....... Micky

Yeah this is true Ido... I bet mine would have lasted the life of the car... They weren't rusted at all... and the were heavier gauge steel than the new KYB's..... But, I said..... let's put the new ones in anyway.... I had some weird shaking going on.... So why find that I still have the shaking..... I did keep the old one's you never know... Good to have spare parts...... SOOO,,,,, yeah....no more shaking over the bumps in the road.......... nice ride now..... not overly stiff but, Sturdy........ Those old struts were sooooooooo bad.... I have never seen struts so shot........... I am figuring that the excessive travel perhaps was causing all the shaking......... Rear sway bar bushing(on the C looking part) could be replace......... Has anyone changed those out??????? THanks, Micky

Ok, Thank you very much........ I will be using the new mounts I have ordered........ Best to not be "Penny wise and Dollar FOOLISH" Hate doing things twice....... How about the best place for prices for KYB excel / GR2 struts????? Any suggestions.... I still have to purchase new fronts..... and new mounts for the front Thanks, Micky

Thanks!... I got one coming for Mon........

Yeah, Just wondering..... I just got some nice strut mounts in the mail KYB.... This would be a 98 Outback.... The mounts were near 100 bucks for the pair....... Do they really go bad??????????????? they look like just one piece of metal........... Micky

Thanks! So, local replacement parts store....... reputable..... wants like 80 bucks for a knock sensor...... Why such a difference in price?????????? What is so great about the $80.00 dollar one (besides it's price)......??? Thanks, Micky

'Ello, Got a CEL..... It has been on since I purchased the vehicle. There was one occasion where I started the vehicle and it was not lit up (engine was cold not warmed up) I drove it for a mile (no light on). Went into the auto parts store(where else would I be going!) came back out and it was on imediately upon starting vehicle....... I have put almost 1000 mile on Pearl since I fixed the bent intake valves and new timing belt...... Some 300 mile road trips...... So anyway, yesterday's road trip,,, in about 200 miles.... The light started blinking.(this never happened before)...(a slow blink, which lasted for only about one minute. maybe light blinked twenty times) I finally got to scan it this morning Here is what came up on first scan P0304 (Power Train) Cylinder 4 misfire P0325 (Power Train) Knock Sensor 1 circuits or single sensor P0505 (Power Train) Idle Control System I then cleared the codes.................. Codes disappeared as well as the light went out....... then I scanned it a second time...... Here is what came up on Second Scan P0325 (Power Train) Knock Sensor 1 Circuit or Single Sensor (just the one code came up on second scan) AND After clearing codes the second time....... The Check Engine Light would not go out ......... after clearing.... Summary I will have find out where the Knock sensor is...... (my guess, is that it is a sensor that changes ignition timing) Aye, Maybe there is a bad connection???? Anyway, if you's could enlighten me in any possible way here... it would be muchly appreciated.... Thanks, Micky

Thanks! All good points..... Yeah, I should just take a quick look at motor mounts... make sure they are tight.... I will try and CROW up the tranz...... I got some Rear KYB's Coming with new mounts as well. ( Hoping I can get away with not doing the fronts Or maybe they were done in the car's past life) It does feel like the VIB-ing starts in the rear..... Struts in rear are pretty bad..... I can't believe how costly struts and mounts are........ What happened to the days when you could fix your car and still have money to eat? Micky

Oh yeah..... Pearl is a 98 Outback with a 2.2L

Aye, Got about 400 miles on her(Pearl) Since I installed the new intake valves.... I don't know if this problem existed before the T-belt snapped(only had car for a brief moment before it snapped) Engine mounts were loosened and upper bar to firewall was loosened as well during motor rehab(bent valves) process Here is the situation... There is shaking when going over bumps in the road. And I mean,,, not really significant bumps either........ Like the bumps I have noticed are like (slow lane highway) truck wear out bumps..... Or like just bad concrete expansion joints on the highway........ It really feels to me like it's in the middle of the vehicle... where the shake emanates...... I went under and moved/wiggled the tailshaft around from side to side on the tranny It moves around, it isn't like the mount rubber is broken or torn...... But, I would say the mount is very flexible...(stretchyish)... soft sort of.....(but not to touch --- as far as I know -- I have not pressed on them with my fingers) Simply said, I can move the tranny tail shaft from side side an noticeable amount(to the eyeball) Any thoughts Thanks, Micky

Interesting, all said.... Yeah, cheers. for KYB..... I have two VW Jettas... (diesel).... I purchased them years and years apart..... both used both MK2 series. The first one I installed KYBs........ Second one..... like a year ago..... installed the Monroes..... I much rather would have chosen the KYB's and if it aggravates me enough I will put the KYBs in the second car that has the Monroes. The Monroes were/are rather stiff (it felt like I was crashing into every concrete expansion joint on the interstate) So thanks!.... I will get KYB's, new mounts for the front and give the car a good look over(regarding how it sits) and go from there.... & I am thinking my springs will be fine....... Thanks, Micky

Thanks! Yeah, it certainly was a nervewracking experience. I will look tomorrow..at the Outback . I think my Loyale's (have three Loyales but, only one is still amongst the living others-" yard planters") Had theirs mounted in that fashion.... If the outback doesn't have that bracket, I will have to swipe it from one of the "yard planters"...... and that would be cool! When cars share their parts... then their spirits get to live on! thanks Micky

Aye! Now that the car is moving. It is time for fixing the struts.. I am asking for what you like and why you Chose whatever for struts you have for your car. the car that needs struts is a 98 outback. I will do the rears first but, it probably needs all four.... The car seems to sit well...despite the bouncey ride what makes sense.???? . do they sell a strut with the spring? I can buy it either Way.. I have spring compressors.... Can some new springs bring it up higher? Like another inch or so?... Thanks, Micky

Well, she is running. got about 25 miles on her. Seems to be running well.. Was stalling out a couple times...... strange@#$??? May have been a vacuum leak.. found a rubber cap/plug all cracked,,, replaced it... it was a 1/8" vacuum tap on the intake manifold sorta near pcv valve. downstream about two inches towards passengerside head... I don't know why the taping is there, wondering if anyone might know? Also, I could not remember where the battery ground wire bolts to? Where should it be bolted to? I bolted it through intake manifold bolt (one closest to firewall) I just was drawing a blank.. on that one. Thanks, Micky

Dig it! Thanks! Hopefully, she'll be motoring again real soon....... Updates are forthcoming.........

Thanks! Gloyale. on the part, [[[ loosen all bolts 180 degrees, basically til loose, no torque ]]] Start with center bolts? (loosening) 180 degrees/ (half turn counter clockwise) (bolts will actually be loose on just a half of a turn?) { This half turn CC will yield a no torque bolt ] Got the idea on the rest of it...... Thanks, Micky

Tomorrow I will install the Heads on the 2.2L Could someone give me their explanation of what they are doing to torque the heads?(all I got is the Hayes book... It's pretty much a headache to use the book) What is the acceptable method in the forum for torquing the heads on .... torque sequence (and loosen then tightening process) Thanks, Micky

Are you's familiar with ROLOC 3M Bristle Brushes.....??? I have been using them for quite sometime now.... great for cleaning gasket material off..... I will use this on the block surface.... Been using it to clean EA82 blocks It gives exceptional results...... https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/629878O/3m-roloc-bristle-discs.pdf Micky