mickytrus

I am worried about the threads in the block for the head bolts Upon taking the heads off this is what I experienced...... [[[[i got two head bolts that are in bad shape..... Corroded? rusted? carbon? not quite sure....... They are #6 head bolt Driver's side(back top firewall) and #3 head bolt passenger side(back top near firewall)]]]] So I bought three new head bolts from Soobie dealer. I will have them on Friday. But, I got to chase these threads. Can you help me with what I need to chase these threads............. How far in the block are these threads???? Are they chaseable???? etc etc etc Thanks, Micky

Cool! I won't change anymore of them......

I got to work on heads for a little while... I ended up using a drill press to compress springs to get the keepers out. This worked great. Thanks, for the idea of cutting a socket to see and remove the keepers. I ended up using a 1" socket that I put a 3/4"I.D. piece of PVC pipe in and notched the pvc pipe. This seems to be working ok....... I did one intake valve today. As for the valve seals, Do I really have to tap them on with a socket?????? They seem to pop on by hand nicely....... What it the best way to install them.?? How secure is secure??? I don't want to marr them up..... I am looking for sugestions Thanks, Micky

So I am in the process now of working on the heads..... Been something I wanted to mention but, just kept forgetting and it was less important at the time, there have been other more previous important questions to ask. I got two head bolts that are in bad shape..... Corroded? rusted? carbon? not quite sure....... They are #6 head bolt Driver's side(back top firewall) and #3 head bolt passenger side(back top near firewall) The Driver's side head.... the sleeve/guide actually came out with the head (could be because the head bolt was a fight to get out of the head. Had to get the head bolt out of head afterwards, on bench) Wonder on if anyone else has had this happen.. Perhaps it is common. I ordered new ones, they should be available to be picked up Friday.

Thanks! Yeah, I should be able to dig in sometime tomorrow. Looking forward to getting the intake valves back in shape.... Replacing the valve seals, Is this pretty easy...... Where does the seal sit? On the head? How is it affixed? And run those heads over some 150 grit..... Recently, Dug a piece of old glass out of a job site..... must have been a shelf or something like that It is super thick...... It will be nice to put it to good use...large enough that it won't slide around.......big enough I can always throw some tape on it at the ends....... I noticed the grit sheets are 9" x 11".... Do the EJ22 heads actually fit on one sheet? Like EA82 heads fit on one sheet? Just curious, figured I would ask..... I brought the intake back too from where the downer vehicle is convalescing ..... so I will do some preventative stuff to it...... and of the metal tubes(vacuum or cooling), I will paint..... Been using some SEM products lately. I really like the results they are providing.... and priced fairly decent...... Decent paint....... "Rust Trap"..... no prep.... just slap it on....... If I have time..... Sometimes, I will go the extra step anyway.... throw Some.... "Rust Mort"(rust converter) on rusted surfaces..... Thanks, Again.... Micky

Thanks!..... I am about to get started on the process..... With regards to Lapping valves (still have to do the disassembly - removing the intake valves from heads but, heads are on the work bench at home)..... I have the necessary items (again thanks on the shopping list for these items) -----( valve lapping compound, the assembly lube and the suction cup spinner ) I saw/seen many approaches/methods of valve lapping on the internet..... In a couple of short sentences, I want to ask those who have been doing this, How it is accomplished..(what do you do, what are you looking for to know you are done with a valve) for example : 1.) Some People will Lap and put grinding compound on both the valve and the seat surfaces.... and some don't 2.) Some I have seen some People(Lappers) spinning and lifting valve and clapping it against the seat while spinning the valve during the lapping process. 3.) In regards to Wiping out the valve ports What is a good substance to use to clean out all the valve grinding compound? Common sense tells me some things but, I really just want a clear picture in my head of what my outcome should be. And I don't want to over do it........(if that could be the case).... And the valve lapping compound....... Seems like you don't want that stuff in a running engine.... So I would think it should be used conservatively..... Thanks, Micky

Thanks!.. Yeah, Picked up a hand lapping tool yesterday. I'll get some assembly lube later today.......... I have so many questions..... I will try to refrain.... Some..(try and keep them in order... and be coherent) I watched the toyotool....... 1.8l installing the keepers.... Compressing the valves.... One question I have.......... How does the guy (who is compressing the valve springs) keep the valves from dropping while he is compressing the spring???? I have some ideas of how I might hold the valves up...... but, I think it is better to see what other's are doing(would do) . Those that have been doing these sort of repairs..... I would like to do fix these bent valves properly So I don't have any surprises.......... ALSO.... I don't want to do a complete disassembly of the heads....... Due, to these circumstances, The car is a downer vehicle currently four hours from my home sitting in some nice people's yard who have been nice enough for me to rip the motor down there. ..... as well as, that I am new at this...... I just want to replace the intake valves............. And do the intake seats.... What are your thoughts regarding this approach....(of not doing a complete disassembly of the heads..&& just doing the intake valves)..... Thanks, MIcky

To be more clear....... What is the recipe for replacing the valves..... Things I need to do ( IE: how should I lap the valves) using any lubricants on anything?.......... should I soak anything in oil overnight? ETC. ETC. ETC.

My valves came yesterday from Bigred's..... I will be digging in sometime soon on the heads and intake valves Is there a decent HOW TO for replacing the valves on the forum or a video? I can have a go at it ::::(I understand the idea of compressing the springs and removing the valve keepers) but, it would be better to see something or even read something..... As I have not needed (never had to compress springs and take valve out before) to deal with collisions in interference motors.( been running EA82's still [but getting near the end]) Thanks, Micky

Thanks! The 80's GM isle...... that is great...... Funny, I gotta go there for a tailight.. today Thanks! for the other source too.... much appreciated..... Mike104::: thanks for the link yeah, that works.....jnuts unuts and EBAY......

Aye, We all know these things, these clips or (clip/nuts) that are receivers of bolts........... they are mounted all over the place.... You see them holding the electric fans to the radiator or even can be see holding the wiper wash bottle to a mounting bracket..... The ones I am specifically interested in , are the ones that hold the electric fans to the radiator....... 1998 subaru outback..... THEN a ten mm bolts runs through the plastic frame of the fan to the radiator..... where this (clip/nut) allows you to thead into... the ten mm bolts THUS, holding on the radiator fan to the radiator securely........ WHAT ARE THESE CALLED?????? WHERE DO I GET NEW ONES? should be able to buy a pack of them... Thanks, MICKY

Ido:::::::: thanks for the idea on how you get the valves compressed... I am figuring that I will do what you talk about as well... Do you know off hand what size socket it was that you cut out? And how much exposure(clearance) is needed to access the valve keepers MEANING::::: how much of the socket did you need to chop out.... GD::::::::: thanks again for the lash check method....... what a great idea....... rather than spend time putting something together(install a belt) (or compressions) Just check for lash...... quick.... nice... got to ripping it down sooner..... Why whish for straight valves..... rare chance in Hell ' o........... Yeah, so one of the valves the lash was pretty high ..... 0.025 in.... another was 0.015 in......... others were less and like three weres .008..... but, ALL of them collided with pistons..... A question........... Exhaust valves don't interfere?????????? Only Intake valves????????? Attached are some pics of the pistons..... All the intake valves collided............. I think five.... are greater that .008.......... I bought eight new valves....... Do you think I should just go ahead and change out all eight.......... Like how much time does it take to change one out......?????

Ido, In the East, are you////??.... Yes, I am very familiar with the conditions there, as myself too having to deal with this as well (in the East), and the new methods of inclement weather safety they use here,,,, in the east... That stuff they spray out of the trucks and sticks to the roads like glue.... and then glues to the vehicles. nasty stuff ,, it is..... This coming weekend I will be able to go and assess the damage due to the timing belt breaking. I have to drive four hours to go and work on the car. Kinda difficult I will have to bring all my tools up there and have everything that I will need GD, thank again for the links to the grit and the valves. I had asked about gaskets..... No one chimed in.... I will ask again............ ISHINO/Stone is an OEM replacement Have you guys heard of it???? (what are your thoughts) recommendations???? I could probably get a set a valve seals..... in this particular kit............. AND Do you know of any good links/(videos) of valve replacement for 97/98 EJ22's? AND links to a recommended Spring compressor and necessary tools to pop out the valves???? Thanks, MIcky

Thanks, GD Grit is on it's way. Valves nice price. Thanks. What about new seals and do I reuse the valve keepers? I need to know about, how to tear down/ Install new valves (R&R) even links to tools needed (IE: I don't own a valve spring compressor - so that is needed... etc etc. etc.) Have not done this before.... but, If I just get the instructions... I am very capable..... As for gaskets,,,,,,,,,,,,, What do you's think about Ishino/Stone gaskets????? Maybe, at the very least I get the head gaskets for Subaru or is this not necessary.... Thanks, Micky

Here Here! Burn Burn Burn.... Yes, certainly a poorly written manual..... I have seen comic books that are easier to read..... 16 valves regardless of cams........ Ok,,,,,,,So I can figure I bent some up.... I haven''t ever had to do valves in the past..... Still running my last Loyale...... Had five of them.. still have three, two are parts vehicles now...... One last runner running pretty strong at 280K So, If you could help me through the process here...(dealing with bent valves) Where should I get (purchase) these intake valves and parts? AND what else do I need? I can get the heads off etc. etc... What is needed to remove the valves and install new valves. tools spring compressor etc etc. ?? And Do you know how much bigger an EJ22 Head is as compared to an EA82? Just curious..... because an EA82 Head fit pretty nicely on a piece of 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper which I would glue to thick glass and spray with wd40 and clean/resurface the head..... As for checking the lash.... Yeah, I will save myself the trouble of putting on the new belt.... if there is a link to checking lash on forum that someone knows about, can you send it my way. OR give me an idea of the process for checking lash for the valves(how is it done).. Thanks, Micky

Little Typo there 97 - 08 should be 97 - 98.... sorry

So the thing I got going for me is that.... It is SOHC...... 8 valves versus 16 valves. it is most likely either then a 97 - 08 , which is interference. What is the basic rule for measuring lash on these valves.???? I will go ahead and get a new belt on it(hopefully this weekend) I will then start checking the lash..... Am I checking lash when valve is at bottom of cam lobes.... I am asking because it is much easier to get it from someone who has done it already, rather than look at my new Hayes book( The book I really don't like how it is laid out.) Can anyone recommend a decent repair manual for SUBIES....?? Thanks, MIcky

True, If you are off roading the subie... makes sense to have covers on.... True, If it is an interference motor...... to have the covers on....... and it is kinda nice having the covers off..... to see the belt all the time and to possibly change at shorter intervals..... Yeah, I don't off road at all........ Yeah, I do see some snow... and Yeah, being in one of those rust states... as I am.... could want me to use covers...... (so, I will certainly consider this info...........) Probably will for the timing being..... if All goes well. Slap a belt on ..... and drive her home(4 hours)..... Geeze that would be nice!

thanks! Here is another question.... I do believe the motor was replaced. For several reasons.... #1. On the inside of the hood the OEM Sticker says 2.5L class with California Emissions......(I believe it was sold by dealer with a 2.5L) #2. There also is on the intake manifold painted in yellow paint, a nice long inventory Junkyard number.... ( could just apply to only the intake manifold.... but, I personally doubt it....) So how can I determine the year of this motor ?????.... It is an EJ22 for sure... stamped in/on block front left top... It is Single overHead Cam(So that is 8 valves only)...... The timing belt tensioner was a one piece tensioner/pulley design...not a two piece.... I don't know if all blocks (EJ22's) can take either tensioner(I kinda doubt it)... What are determining key features to determine year of an EJ22 motor...:::::::??????????????? Thanks, Micky

Thanks for the link to Miles Fox and the Subaru Alliance.... So he runs without timing belt covers..... What is the consensus on that? Do any of you run without timing cover? And what are you thoughts about not running with timing covers.... I myself threw away my timing covers on my EA82's a very long time ago.... and I really like the idea of not running covers. but, that was with the EA82's I would really like know what everybody else is doing.... with the EJ motors and the timing covers... Thanks, Micky

much appreciated thanks! checking lash with a feeler gauge?????? How much lash on the valves? in thousands...... or if you only know MM.... Is it the same amount of lash for intake valves as well as exhaust valves? Yes, I believe I mixed the arrows with the hash marks. I could barely see anything but the arrows, It was night on the side of a desolate road. Do you have any recommendations as to what I should do to better see these hash marks?????? how to shine up the side of the pully etc. etc. etc. Thanks, Micky

Gloyale thanks!... This sounds like part of my problem...... I will try and install and do compression test...... Any recommendations regarding a type of compression tester... those plug holes are rather far far away????? Thanks! Micky

First, thanks for this input in to this situation, definitely invaluable.... The belt did snapped while the vehicle was driving. The car was under some load going up hills(mountainous traverse) I was probably driving 40mph or so.... Yeah, I know that sound of belts breaking from non-interference 1.8l's letting go..... (not really a big deal-have changed them on the side of the road) So, fortunately I was in a place to pull off on this hill. I had plenty of tools with me and a jack. I removed everything down to the belt(including lower pulley. (Yes, belt snapped) From reading several responses to my post.... SubaruScott: You should assume you do have bent valves if so. You can install the belt and do a compression test to find out for sure. Unplug the fuel pump or injectors while testing. You do NOT want to try and run the engine unless your compression check shows good . Like at LEAST 160 psi in every cylinder. Trying to run the engine risks breaking a valve that is bent, resulting in piston/cylinder damage. This makes alot of sense (if I can install the belt,cause it didn't feel right) IdoSubaru: It is normal for the drivers side cam to be under tension and want to spring out of the 12 noon position because it's compressing the valves at that time. Totally normal. Just carefully move it into position and it will stay there. What Idosubaru mentions above, is somewhat what I had felt(physically) while I attempted to install the belt. I did eventually get the driver's cam to sit in this position. What caused my hesitation to continue with this roadside repair, was that when I moved the crank arrow to its position after having both passenger side and driver's side cams it their respected positions(arrows to notch in back of cover), the driver's side cam would pop out of position. I kinda got the feeling that the process of moving the crankshaft to it's desired location was bumping into a bent valve(driver's side head) and forcing the driver's side cam to spin clockwise. Thanks, Micky

Sounds pretty encouraging..... In this case, that I am presently dealing with...... Seems like the Driver's side head....... Is crapped out.... as for the passenger side head I think it is ok.......... <<<<<This is why I think this>>>>>> I tried to put a timing belt on it...... you know.... set up the marks Arrows point upward on both cam sprockets and the crank.... Passenger side head, cam spins nicely when spinning the cam sprocket.... and when arrow is up... there is no tension(no lobes of cam in contact..... Driver's side head, it spins but, it is tight and there is always tension and ...... impossible to set up the mark on the cam when piston is moved into position... cam spins out of position...(because the valve is bent and is pushed by piston) SO I would like to think that the passenger side head is still ok... that is has not suffered any damage........ is this as dangerous assumption?????? How about a method to test the valves.......... maybe by compressing air in the cylinder and see if there is leak off?: Any suggestions????? Is there the possibility that the passenger side head is still ok//// it certainly feels ok...... If anybody can chime in..... it would be greatly appreciated...... Thanks, Micky

Just wondering about possible damage that can incur when interference motors snap a timing belt. Valves bend but, what other damage can occur..... I am thinking about lower end damage...... Specific example:::: would be 98 EJ22 motors. Thanks, Micky