mickytrus

Thanks for the info.... This all surely helps..... As for the Axle nut::::: As I had mentioned the old gens used cotter pins through the nut (as Caster nut) similiar to the tierod end and the ball joint.... So these Outback L's don't use a Caster nut to hold the axle(and everything) together...... Can you tell me about this 32MM Nut.... Is it reuseable? what do you torque it to? And like Why doesn't it get loose after tightening(due to not cotter pin) why does it stay tight????? This car has the 5 speed trans......... So the set up for the timing belt I am figuring it is similiar to the EA82's...that there is 2 timing belts and 2 tensioners? is that correct???? Regarding brake work Yeah, I will make sure I bring a C clamp............ So I won't replace rear rotors (cool!) The front driverside rotor is seriously warped....... I think the caliper is seized.......... do you think I can free it up????? with the clamp...... and is it possible that the caliper is not really seized but it is not sliding on sliders properly??????? As for EA82 trivia and what subies used to do Yeah so, as for the calipers and compressing the piston on and EA82 gen a funny looking tool was required........ the tool would fit onto a 3/8" drive extension and you would rachet clock wise (like threading a nut and bolt) to bring the piston inward for putting on a new set of pads. the tool had these points on it to grasp the piston and spin it inward within the bore of the caliper......... I think several manufacturers were doing this during, this time period..... my tool looks like a cube it can be attached to a 3/8" extension 4 possible ways, giving the user of the tool for different ways to grasp pistons and spin them in........ (cute!) but sorta stupid..... I wonder why this was done this way......(what was the benefit, if any??) As for Ebrake gotta say! bet Ebrake ever invented......... It is a front Ebrake..... two beefy cables come from lever at the center consol, which could be adjusted there for play...... they then went to either side of vehicle directly to each front caliper..... There, there was a very beefy lever that they attached to........ They work very very very welll....... Also very nice was the (clutch brake) ON Std trans......... Here, you push in clutch, and an additional cable went to an interesting set up near the master cylinder and spun mechanical energy from this additional cable( off of throw out bearing shifter fork) to create hydraulic pressure to apply brakes while clutch was pressed in, this was great on hills....... and those in the REAL OUTBACK(Australia) loved this set up..... along with the older gens.... which had an actual transfer case for some serious gear reduction.............. So thanks for helping me with this... and I look forward to more replies to this tread....... regarding the questions I am asking in this reply to this post... Micky

Hello, Be on this forum for a while now. very familiar with EA82's in Loyale's. I just got a 98 Outback L. It is rather far from my home. I will pick it up and drive it back but, I have to do some work to it..... Need some info........ on specifics for the repairs.... I must do some Brake Work: How are the calipers bolted on Are calipers held on by two bolts that are 17mm? if not please explain, thanks! Replacing Brake Rotors Can you tell me about the Axle nut holding the hub on..... I am not familiar with this type of nut..... Old Subies use cotter pins on their axle nuts.... Please fill me in.... Are they (use them once - axle nuts) What Size are they? MM what are they torqued to? Motor Information The vehicle was setup with having to meet California emissions.... THe motor was replaced...... about 70 K ago? The motor was replaced with an EJ22 The motor runs wells though it does have a misfire..... I am going to replace the plugs and the ignition wires Can you tell me about the ignition coil ?????? They are under 40 dollars.... for these 2.2L motors...... Should I just go and change the ignition coil???????????? Timing Belt Info I will do a timing belt ////// belts.... How long are belts good for on 2.2L motors? What size is the lower pully nut??????? MM I have done many of these on 1.8l EA82's...... Anything new that I need to know??????? I think that is it.......... Thanks, Micky

Thanks for your input on this Sub'Nt. If I can ask some particular questions....... I put 4wd 3AT at into a 2WD 3AT wagon. Where your 2wd front axles smaller(less beefy) and did you use the 2wd axels? Swap the trailing arms, add the diff mount onto the tube the arms mount on. Had to fabricate the driveshaft center bearing mount. I will take a look at the 4wd one to see what the mount looks like. I will get back to you with a question or two, more than likely... The holes for the moustache bar were visible under the car, but not drilled through all the layers. I drilled them through with a long thin bit, and then up through the wagon back floor, and used a hole saw to make access through the floor so I could put nuts on the bolts. This too above I will take a look at on the 4wd and get back to you.... But as for the tube...... both cars have the tube........ The trailing arm....... my trailing arms are a little weathered, so I would probably have to do alittle bit of stuff to them.. I have one with a decent (recently installed bearing), I would probably use that one..... but, as for the backing plate and the drum and brake parts, those will have to be upgraded.... So my question here::::::: Can I use the 2wd backing plate brake hardware, rear wheel cylinder ( doubting the drum) the drum? Added the wires into the harness for the 4wd switch and dash light. nice! So what about the dash light? for 2wd Is it pretty much same cluster? just bulb missing? Depending on years, the rear trans mount may need to be swapped. Yeah, Here I think the vehicles are only about a year apart....... Thanks! Micky

So yeah, Got an opportunity to get a Front WD Auto Loyale... I would convert it over to four wheel drive Stick..... I have the parts........ Can anyone tell me (from their experience) What is involved.... Like yeah, I know what is involved but, tell me if there are Glitches.....(things to loose sleep over) or.......... CAN I JUST BOLT IT IN? or Some stuff is difficult to pull apart............... (you need certain tools.... etc etc etc) Thanks Micky

How much of a deal is the swap out? 2.5l ---> 2.2L (with manual trans) Do you need a plate between engine and tranny? And the computer? what needs to be done there??? do you just grab the whole harness from 2.2l Lots of subies fo' sale I am seeing..... How are the 2002 2.5l motors ????? what can be said about them.....( I saw a legacy L - stick) I mean.... really head gaskets are just part of the subie reality..... I have done some of my loyales several times...... I think that 304K one I did at least twice ,,,, maybe even three times..........

Hi, I recently had to say good bye to one of my Loyales. Yeah, a sad sad day.... I mean I could probably keep it going.... but, I would have to ask myself,,,,,, why? Had a good life....... 304K........ Anyhow, I would probably get another one if they were around....... But, I think I got the last ones on the North East..... I like wagons.... and I like Sticks..... Can you tell me about the motors ( in a nutshell) IE: 2.5L being DOC........ (what about models that have a tendency to exhibit "Piston Slap") Tell me what to Avoid........... And why...... Tell me what is Great! and why.... I remember people telling me about the 2.2l's and how great they were....... They were only around in the late ninety's? (legacy's)????? Ok,,,, Thanks! Micky

Ok, SOunds great...... I'll see if I can move on this..... and get this car..... So the wheel base is the same from Wagon to Sedan? and you do the carrier bracket and the two shafts will pop in the sedan? THat is what it sounds like is being said here, is that is correct?

I got a hundred on it today..... So we will see... The top of the spec is like 76..... I wonder if I had fifty or sixty on...... That was a fuzzy night..... worked like ten hours straight doing regasket assembly and get it started... was like 4:30 AM.... Didn't want to stop... wanted it DONE.... Tough call.... not good to get haunted....

I may purchase another subie...... Loyale,,,,, I have wagons... to use as parts..... So it is a 4wd wagon.... Its parts would go to a 2wd sedan.............. Transferring the 4wd from the wagon to the the 2wd sedan.... I guess I will have issues regarding drive shaft? What other things will I have to do? Are all 2wd vehicles swappable? Is there drilling and measuring....? or is it straight forward?????? Thanks Micky

Hello, I was in third gear..... I passed someone.... it only revved up to 4k..... It is running well, considering mileage and circumstances...... So I just had it apart. regasket job and I had to put in some threaded rod, due to some bolts stripping in block... It is holding well so far........ 1500 miles on regasket job... Anyway, the freakin' lower bolt loosened up on me.... I believe it was torqued to specification.... Off hand I can remember what it is..... If anyone out here can refresh my memory... on the correct torque of a Lower Pulley Bolt (crank pulley) I would much appreciate it.............. Also, If anyone else has experienced a Crank Pulley Bolt ..... Just loosening up........ and coming off even though they had it at the proper torque..... Could you let me know......... Thanks...... I don't know If maybe I shoule use a new Crank bolt????? or even another one from one of my wrecks????????? Thanks, Micky P.S. Yeah it was not a pleasant experience.... Car dash lites came on for charging,, and Brake fluid light... and I am driving and the power steering was not working.... car got hot before I could pull it over....... (not in the read but close) I tightened up the bolt drove home, another ten miles...... car seems ok........... Just need question above,,,, replied to.....

Thank you.... This is all most helpful. I will be looking at the car tomorrow...... And I just can't imagine not having a five speed.... All these nuances... great to know in advance.... Yeah, Harder and harder to find these cars I guess that is why I am even considering the tranny swap..... being I have the parts......

Where is it leaking oil from? I had one leak really bad at the head... as a result the lifter/lash adjusters would tap on that side....... I just fixed leaking oil pump..... You are looking at a "micky mouse seal" an O-ring(pump to engine seal) and a pump seal(pump shaft)..... Do all three........ I just started using anerobic sealant on the micky mouse seal... to put in place to the engine block..... let it get so it sticks there....... I started doing this, because I noticed... on my regasket jobs.... that the micky seal would fail..... eventually.... (around 60K) and upon inspection of the seal.... It appeared... out of shape.... or what one would call, pinched....... Anerobic sealant http://www.all-spec.com/products/51813.html?gclid=CJn43catkcMCFUEV7Aod4G8AyQ Get where ever you want....... I get it at the local...... and there are several brands of it...... It is red.... sort of looks like "fake Halloween vampire blood" Just use enough to get it to stick in place to the engine block... and make sure it is sticking there and not moving around.... Cause yeah, without it... I believe while it is being tightened into place.... it sits there squirming around...... and can get pinched...

Good to hear.... I guess there is the rollback brake..... I guess I could opt out on putting that in, correct? The MT tranny... I am figuring you are referring the earlier trannies. with the wonderful LOW..... Are they hard to find? and what could I figure on paying? Thanks,,, Micky keep the input coming, I appreciate it......

Hey, Has anyone done this!(well, I am sure!) Anyway, I may pick up and 93 loyale Automatic.. and I want to put in a five speed from one of my (wrecks/flower pots)...(they are both 91's).. So my question that I pose to the forum.... is let me know the less obvious things........ that may stymie me. Like I noticed the the dashboard panel is different from Auto to Standard....... But like what about (cross member?) driveshaft....... Axles.... same? Like I mentioned I have two spare cars to borrow from......... I just would like to be able to plan ahead.... thanks..... If you could let me know right away... that would be great as I am supposed to go look at this other car..... tonight..... Thanks, Micky

So here is a picture of the head. All frankensteined up......... Showing it's (threaded rod) poppin' out itz neck...... Initially, It was only one striped taping in the block at Bolt#5... Then as I was tightening... at the last torque sequence... The other one blew out.... (lower right) #8(i am guessin').... So I had to do that one..... I did that one while the head was still on...... cut some more rod and threaded it in. I ended up only finding grade 7..... rod... it is 7/16 fine thread..... I cleaned the debri out of the the taping with a tiny screw driver and just threaded it in... It was a little nerving.... When to decide to stop threading it in... I did measure carefully, buy still it was hard to tell when.... It was done.. due to how it felt..... and well, you only get one try at this.... I double nutted the rod and cranked it in..... I used the conventional flat washer the was origininally there and put a lock washer on top of that..... It seems to be holding...... So I believe this occurred due to excessive heat..... It has been cold here, but I got stuck in traffic on the highway a couple of times... and she got hot above the halfway mark. not into the red but, close... maybe a 1/4 inch away....... My thermostatic switch had failed..... so electric fan was not coming on.... I had ripped out the AC and the mechanical fan........ So I think this is a story with a happy ending..... car is running good......... If it fails.... I will add to this post.....

I concur... Ditch the covers. Best thing I ever did.... I run with the backs just not the front of the covers.... I could say there are disadvantages to not having covers but, way better when it comes to swap out another belt.... Just use anti-sieze on the tensioner bolts and the idler bolt..... I need to use it due to the environment.....

Thanks.... Good to know... I used them in the past bought some fuel hose..

Break it down to Is it a timing belt issue? you can pull the plastic cover off the short timing belt easy enough..... Very much worth doing........... right off the bat... say after checking for fuel.... Is it getting fuel? (checking for fuel is easier than pulling timing belt cover so do this first) pour some in throttle body... or spray an ignitable.(not as safe as )..... (gas being the safest like an ounce) When you turn the key do you hear pump come up to pressure???? Heard from passenger side wheel...... (sometimes they make sound when the ignition key is turned to the "run" position prior to turning key to the "start" position.) Is it getting spark? Check at the coil.. (thick wire -- if you not sure how to do this just ask)... if you got... then check at the spark plugs..... Driving along and then suddenly...(*&%$#@) . as you say.... what did occurr..... sounds more like the timing belt...... I have had this occur severa times.... as a result of different kinds of failures..... siezed tensioner....... (not running with T-belt covers and motor started having blow by....... and belt eventually became so contaminated that it snapped.....) and a bunch of other times....... I must say , I don like running without covers.... because... I can always look at it and inspect it.... or just visually see.... if it is still doing what it is supposed to be doing............. Good luck with your troubleshooting.......

I had a case where my return spring rotted away...... caused a serious fight with trying to drive......... it was a 93..... so I just spun the mechanism and held it in place... I don't if I used string or a zip tie.... till I go a new spring......(another from the graveyard)

Found grade B7 7/16 fine thread...(rod 3') At a local Fastenal... but I have to order it... can have it by Monday....... This may be the best I can get.... Schrug... Schrug.... I will keep looking.....

So I called the local fastener place... They well stock in bolts and the like..... I am looking for 7/16 fine thread B9 threaded rod.... If I could be pointed in the right direction, anyone know where to get this? or what kind of places would have such a thing...... Thanks, Micky

So take a piece of 7/16 B9 fine threaded rod and thread that in.... To Avoid the larger diameter hole of a Helicoil.... AND Don't chase the threads (of original thread) Just thread rod in........ I like this idea...,,,, any idea how much extra thread sits at the bottom?

Didn't see the posts ran onto page two... Sorry, DaveT I missed your post... till after I added again... Yeah, I will look online. DaveT Did you put the Helicoil in while the engine was still in car? Wondering...... Thanks, Micky

Probably good to say again.... that the vehicle did run hot on several ocassions.... It did not run into the read....... It has been cold enough here to avoid that with running the heater... Still it did get up in temp... Which I believe is the cause of my problem........ The temp issue has been remedied..... with a new thermostatic switch

So far what I have gathered regarding this is. Tap size is 11mmx1.25 Helicoil kits are rare for this size... I had read something that the tap for the head bolts is actually longer than the bolt and that it may be possible to get a longer bolt , chase the thread again and use a longer bolt perhaps, an extra washer to adjust bolt length in the taping..... Looking for some insight and suggestions...