mickytrus

Well, I began putting the heads back on.... All cleaned up nice.... did the apocalyptic head resurfacing.... All was going well,,,, driver side is on nicely.... As for the passenger side..... I have run into problems... it is the cylinder where I have a little scoring..... the head bolt #5 head bolt to be exact...... Well, it is not tightening....... It appears to be stripped .... I couldn't even get it to the first (20) ft pounds.... sequence..... So I ask the forum..... How do I fix this........ I haven't ever drilled and taped anything this critical before.... So If I can get and Idea where I am going with this..... I will collect the necessary stuff..... you reccomend..... and get this done.... thanks.. Look forward to hearing your suggestions...... Micky

Hey, Thanks for the info.... I believe one of the things these days is that there are too many products... Causing too many choices..... These companies make more and more products each year...... I would just rather ask a seasoned person what the gig is... and It is good that I can get some valid reasons based on experience. I have been keeping "my wrecks" going for a very long time..... Seems that I have been stuck on these Subie loyales lately,(last twenty five years) I have had five of them......(love hate relationship)..... Running two now... with two parts cars in the rear..... Funny I just had both of them break down... With serious mechanical problems..... Though it is taking up alot of my present time..... I hope that I can return them to fully operating trustworthy vehicles, with more life to come....and problem free...... It is great to have this forum to come to , to get info. That is what it is for...... And sowhat what one may ask... It is great they are keeping these cars(that were ahead of their time) alive...... It is good however to point someone to old threads...... I have tried to search for stuff with the search engine..... It sometimes gets me to what I need..... Sometimes it does not...... (Ie: above in this post someone refers to the resurfacing thread for heads.... what a great thread) Thanks, Micky

I have seen a couple of my clutches do that..... I just had on eventually go... It went stiff and then I drove on it for about 30K.... I believe it is something in the pressure plate.... perhaps even one of the torsional springs on the clutch has broken and jammed in the pressure plate.... The reason I think something is jammed in the pressure plate is because... One of my Loyale's, (the one that recently the clutch went) As I was saying had been stiff for about 30K... Died after I sort of ended up in a precarious situation where I had to move the car quickly out of the way....... So anway, I was rolling backwards and while rolling backwards and not coming to a full stop, I proceeded into first gear to move forward..... The clutch didn't appreciate it.... car has about 260K on it..... So there I was with a broken clutch , I couldn't shift into any gear.... I sat around for about ten minutes collecting my thoughts, trying to be calm and find my way out of this mess without a tow truck or a tow chain,,,,,.... So keep in mind at this time.... I can not shift car... I am stuck on the side of the road........ So I decided to start the car with the clutch pressed down(disengaged) and in gear..... I choose reverse only because I was pointed up a slight incline. The car started, it lurched... the clutch rattled... and she rolled... I did this for about 30 feet..... then... I was at an intersection that I would have to drive through in reverse( If I was to get the car back to a safe place to park and think about this more clearly) So now.... I am at an intersection waiting for the light to go green so I can go through it in reverse.(the car is turned off). The idea is to do the same thing......( start it up in gear)... I get it over to the parking lot... everything went as planned.... except one thing........ The car when I got back to the parking lot was shifting fine......... Whew...... I proceeded home..... SO as I was driving home... The car shifted flawlessly... and the clutch pressed in beautifully.... felt all nice and not hard to push.............. THe next day I went out to start the car and see what it was like....... It was all jammed up..... couldn't shift... That was the best Christmas present I could have received this year........ being able to get that car home..... SO yeah, the friction material on the clutch probably has plenty of life left to it... But, the other parts of a clutch take a serious beating over the clutch's lifetime... At some point you want to put a new clutch and pressure plate in that car.......

I would like to think that It was just air........ but, It was/is consuming coolant..... and it would push/gush into the over flow when the vehicle was turned off.... No, this is not a matter of just some air in the system..... Yeah, I know what OEM means...... Above is a pic of one of the cylinders..... Very slight scoring........ Again, Like I had mentioned in an earlier post... The car ran fine. Power was good considering the mileage on vehicle...... There was some increase of combustion pressure which could be noticed while running vehicle at idle and opening the Oil fill and putting your hand over it compared to previously(60k) ago. Can someone give me an idea(what can one expect to see) of what the inside of the combustion chamber will look like when there has been some kind of infiltration of antifreeze for some period of time? (what does the build up on the pistons look like?) So yeah, I will pick up some felpro gaskets for the heads...... Seems collectively people preferr them,........ Does anybody have an opinion about putting them on dry or (using copper coat) on them?

The Heads are off the vehicle... In doing so I encountered a couple of things... A couple of excessively loose head bolts.... and some very slight scoring in rear cylinder passenger side. See attached picture......... As for compression...... cranking about ten times..... yielded compression above 140 psi on all cylinders.... One was as high as 150psi........ Besides the gurgling and the pushing of antifreeze into the overflow reservior the car was still running pretty strong for its mileage.... I am thinking the cylinder score happened several months back... when I was pushing the car up a long long hill... and trying to pass someone. who would not let me pass... on the highway...... I eventually let off the gas after a hesitation of some sorts occurred......... I would appreciate some input.... regarding some measures to take...... Like simply regasketing the motor,.., leaving as is..... or providing some attention to things...... The car as I had mentioned earlier has 227K on it...... If I got another 60K out of it that would be good..... Not that we are any good at fortune telling...... But, let me know what you think... Thanks, Micky

Thanks, for the info... THe question "does the motor drip wet exhaust spray"? I am not sure what this referrs to..... Guessing: I will reply with tail pipe has a slight gonnarial drip to it now.... one of the heads (passenger side) seems to be dripping.. (maybe even spraying out..) I should put my hand next to it while it is running... or even a piece if paper......... INstalling gaskets..... I have been getting Ishino gaskets for the subies..... anybody have any comments regarding them? (good or bad) Does anybody use coppercoat on the head gaskets? I have been generally putting them on dry...... Head resurface: Yeah, thanks for mentioning that about resurfacing at home I found that thread several years back.... using glass and spray glue and wet/dry sand paper and wd-40...... (what a great use for WD40) Do you know if you can get the exhaust studs and nuts at a dealer still ????? I wonder THanks, Micky

Yes, I think I a gonna go in and do the head gaskets... Driverside is not leaking... I'll give a good check.... but it looks good from what I remember.. Passenger side looks like it spits out at the axle... Has anyone ever just decided to do just one side....??? Keep in mind I regasket at about 60,000 miles ago with the (ishino-- gaskets) I just figured I would ask....... THe one thing that bums me out all the time when I do this work IS.... the exhaust flange mounting bolts..... They always seem to be destroyed.... and the heads go to the machine shop....... Does anybody have any recommendations for removal of the Nuts and (10mm studs - I believe)..... Also.... what about a special kind of nut... to rebolt the exhaust flange back on...... Like anybody use copper nuts? I have used stainless nuts and it seems that is not the way to go.... maybe if I have both stainless nuts and stainless studs....... Let me know what you think? Thanks, Mike

All good points to consider... Yeah, ... I 'll check compression before I pull the head... Hoping , this at a last resort..... I'll pickup that throttle body gasket and do that.... I should see what happens when I start the car... with the radiator cap off too. Any other things to look for?

Hello, Yeah so...... Why would I want to pull the head.... First, 92 loyale 1.8 non turbo..... 227K regasketed at 160K.... Just did timing belt at about 225K cam seals main seal micky mouse seal.... First, what I noticed a ways back... is like what I thought might be a sticking thermostat.... She runs pretty cool...... got a 190 in it I believe.... the cooler one doesn't throw any heat...So I went with the 190 When I would start it from cold.... It would rise up abnormally. and then settle down... to the "normal" spot.... It would never rise up crazily again during the ride. So several weeks back.... the overflow was contaminated..... sort of black...... now..... I had a case of the thermostatic relay failing..... It has been cold.... so I was not in so much of a hurry to replace it...... but problem being.... I was unseemingly gettting stuck in traffic....... and the car would rise up.... It never went into the red..... but came rather close.... I had to run the heater to keep it cool......(I removed the AC fan and the AC) So back to the is the head gasket leaking...... The overflow was contaminated.... So I fixed the thermostatic fan switch put in a new thermostat and flushed out the system with clean water and filled system and threw in some Kseal.... sealer....... Anyway, to also mention...... there is some gurlgling that can be heard in the heater core........ at times.......... I don't think the Kseal fixed anything..... though temp wise it seems more stable.... I do seem to be adding antifreeze...... and there is drips coming out of the exhaust....... and it is smoky but not smelling like antifreeze.... I am wondering about the gasket under the throttle body...... I wonder if it is. leaking there???????? car runs pretty good and strong for 227K... there is a slight miss that can be felt........ sometimes.... while driving... Let me know what you think... Micky

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/144678-testing-a-tps-97-22l/?p=1215731 Hello, See above link for more info.. This is a car I don't get to work on much.... Sorry, for the old post having to referr to it.... The car has NO throttle response at all... Zippo you press the accelarator and nothing.... and WOT.... same as not pressing it.... it doesn't even stall out.....(just sounds a little leaner - breathy) So if you read above on the link you will get an idea of some of the suggestions.... and I must say.... the car starts up and idles well...... The hoses look good..... fuel filter---[i bypassed it no change in problem] The Tps... I tested it as suggested.... the outer wires... were good.... and the center wire... I stuck a needle in wire and tested while connected It sweeps fine..... up to like 5 volts........... I have not tested the fuel pump pressure.... (I honestly don't think it is at fault but, it could be electrical, the issue causing pump to not have proper pressure) ** what should fuel pressure be? 15 psi? is it supposed to be constant? If I could find out where the ECU is and what pin the center wire from the TPS Goes to....... and testing procedures.... I figure I need to make sure that the wire in the connector for the ecu... for the tps.... I will check it and sweep it for the voltage... Like I did with the needle in the wire at the TPS. So yeah...... Zippo throttle response... this car is dead in the water.... Fairly nice Idle.... for a "flower pot" Thanks, Micky

Yeah, Rear wheel bearing I took an old one(the whole control arm) from another junker... that I got laying around Anyway, It didn't come apart as nice as I would have liked.... The bearing still in the lower arm....(which it will stay) like I said, I will be swapping the whole unit (swapping lower control arms) The rear axle, I couldn't separate it from the double splined shaft....... So I tapped it with a baby sledge through the bearing........ so I could get the lower control arm off the junker....... Now I have to put the double splined shaft through the bearing.... I dont want to cause bearing to pop apart while doing this anybody have any suggestions? Thanks, Micky

Then the bottom wire is ground wire, so there should be 0v there. That means the ground is good. ok, that's great.. I'll just test the sweep for voltage.... and adjust tsp.... The TPS signal at the ECU should be checked. You would have to get a factory service manual for the car and check which pin the TPS signal wire goes to in the wire diagrams. Ok, illl work on that.(finding out which pin).... Where is the ECU located? Have you checked for split vacuum/ breather/ PCV hoses? Checked fuel pressure? Replaced air/fuel filters? Not to any great extent...... I did pull off the air intake last night.... those hoses seem.... ok..... I believe air filters.... fuel filters where already replaced...... (air filter is new) How do I check the fuel pressure..... I can go and purchase a pressure gauge/ fuel pressure meter.... etc if I have to ..... which one should I get?? Thanks, Micky

So ,,,,,, Here is what happenend... I have 5 volts with the key on. for the top wire in the plug..... I don't have 5 volts on the bottom wire in the plug So ..... I would like to know what to do next...... I figure it would be good to check the wire to the other end for continuity and I would also like to know where it goes....... What are the next steps to trouble shoot this here? Thanks a bunch Micky

Thanks for the reply.... I just want to clarify so I better understand...... I bolded the topic.... and threw in a couple more words... Thanks, Micky Overall resistance: Ok, that sounds good..... I understand... that. Wiring Reference voltage, top and bottom pin while key is in on position ground to battery or any good ground....? (should be 5 volts) Tps voltage back to ECU: this would be the center pin(wire)(while plugged in) stick a needle or paper clip in wire, run to ground, voltmeter reading should be 5volts? Check the ground wire for a good ground. Should be close to 0v no more than 0.1volts( not sure here what you mean) which wire is the ground wire( basically, place voltmeter between it and ground..... (should be close to zippo in voltage?) no continuity Check center wire for voltage(not sure??? if you could clarify) Adjust the TPS until you have about 0.51V at center pin This would be key in on position..... using needle or paperclip..... throttle closed..... run to ground Do the sweep thing 4.2 - 4.5 volts check your sweep quality.... should be fluid no drops

Hello, I am interested in testing a tps...... I have removed the TPS and have an ohm meter. Basically, looking for the overall testing procedure... testing resistance and resistence range.... Also, testing the voltage on the three wires going to the TPS... THanks, Micky Oh, symptoms...... car Idles beautifully........... try and accelerate and you would think the wires were crossed...... chuggs..... and doesn't even move...... press pedal to the metal.... and no difference at all..... so I am thinking either TPS or........ no electric getting to it........................ So when you describe.... use wire color if you can.... and reference pins by top pin of tps or middle or bottom... etc etc.......... Thanks, Again,,, Micky......

The vehicle is a 1996 legacy. with a 2.2l motor............ I would like to test one... say with an ohm meter.....

Thanks, I'll start with map and the hoses.... and then probably should just check the timing belt too..... then check fuel pressure... Ill post with results....

Ok, I will try another pressure sensor... What is a pressure sensor "sensing" and where might I find it..... Thanks,..... and a pressure sensor... could affect and create misfire codes???? I don't know ??? I am just asking...... I always like a sure thing... that is why I ask.... thanks, Micky....

P0106 Pressure Sensor Circuit Range Problem P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected Looks like from the codes more like an ignition problem rather than a fuel problem.... Pressure sensor circuit range problem? Any thoughts?????? Perhaps, like above..... someone said.. check timing belt...... I should probably do that..... Open for suggestions.... Thanks....

Is there a way to test the throttle body positioning sensor..???? Yeah, could be that... make sense.... like can I check it for resistance... or continuity...... through the connectors what usually craps out on them... Here are the codes: p0106 p0301 p0302 p0303 p0304

Thanks all very good points taken... I got to spend some time yesterday.... I towed it out of the library and back to the owner's home.... So I get ther... I starts up just fine.... Then.... you step on gas pedallll... and it is like this: Boooooowah Booooowah.... really that is pretty much the extent of it....... cant even put it in gear...... So with a toe rope.... get it back to the house.... and somehow I miraculously massage gas pedal and it runs like this.... wubah wubah wubah..... into its parking spot...... No Joke.... on the expressions..... So I left it momentarily.... came back a little while later... and just checked out some things... The observation is this... Again.... idles fine.... once the throttle plate changes position.... the car is doomed.... like there is no more fuel being dumped into the car even though I am asking for it........ and if I put the accelarator to Wide open throttle...... It doesn't stall... it pretty much just runs like terd.... won't stall out..... I feel at WOT.... it is getting tons of AIR but, the same amount of fuel..... no more fuel than at idle..... Someone mentions check fuel pressure..... How would this be done? a special tool/gauge? If you could let me know.... seems like this is a good thing to establish at this point...... If there is anything else that may indicate other areas to check let me know.... Micky

It has been a while Since I put it on... they could... may have been beck or standard..... Coilpacks NKG plugs..... So luko if burned up your Cat? What happened after the cat burned up? was the cat clogged? Ill get some more details.... go and look at the car....

So the car idles fine. had a tune up new coil pack and runs bad.... no power..... feels retarded... or maybe the (Cat is clogged kind of feeling) It has less than 120K on it.... It spits back some codes... from what I was told the codes refer to misfire.... but everything ingnition wise is replaced....(meaning plugs,coil pak, wires, plugs) Some ideas would be nice... What to check and perhaps how to check.... Thanks, Micky

If your changing oil..... find some topography to drive over...... topography??(*&^(*&^(& Like maybe there is a low spot in pavement you can park over perhaps a gutter(road gutter) pull up on a curb....... you get the picture.

How many foot pounds of torque did you tighten the bearing to.....? you mention that you only put the spindle in?