ccarbaru

I did a 2.2 Tbelt and all the Wpump and seals in there almost exactly a year ago today, did the same thing and overtorqued a bolt in the oil pump; used a long rachet- tired and not thinking. I called it a day and went out the next morning and pulled the pump off and luckily the bolt was barely sticking out of the block. Was able to grab it with a pair of needlenose type surgical tweezers from the tiny piece that was sticking out. Very slowly unscrewed it as it was oddly not that tight in the block; then started over again resealing everything. Not too big of a deal to redo everything but got somewhat lucky for sure. Didn't have to use an extractor of sorts. One thing to remember is those bolts are small diameter, can't remember the specs but not too much torque. A short rachet with a 1/4 drive is about the right tool it seemed. Everything worked out perfect.

Hey thanks again GD for the detailed info. I'll keeping an eye out for one of those transmissions in this area I'm thinking; maybe a ea82 sube that needs other work but good trans? At some point soon would like to see more about that kit, etc. Project could get pushed till end of the year too.:-\

Lot's of valuable information here for sure.. so cool of GD and Greenley. :)Would like to see the stock trans for sure & at least drive it/check it out. Man, I thought about this years ago always wondered the possibility of upgrading the trans being the later models went to the 5 speed but without the later timing belt motor. Are there clutch and clutch linkage cable issues with that upgrade? I remember some years ago of syncros being shot in all these GL 1800 engines I was looking at trying to find my 84 which I later found by accident, etc..

Dont know what I was thinking when I posted 5 speed instead of 4 speed... so used to my MT 5sp. 90 Legacy Actually the GL is a 4wd hi-lo range 4 speed trans. So yes Greenley I'm in Reno. I might be interested in your trans.. is it compatible with a 1800cc motor non-timing belt? GD thanks again for your insight..yes splitting the trans is something I really don't want to deal with; has had a major leak as well not sure if it's an interior seal either:-\

Oh wow.. not what I wanted to hear.. is removing/replacing gear from the access hole if you had long surgical type plyers an option? Wonder if I'd be better off finding/pulling a good tranny from that era GL..? Never even pulled one before.. not sure what I'm in for. Did a TBelt on my 2.2 legacy that went well :-\ Regardless, thanks for the insight GD.

84 GL 5-speed and speedometer quite on freeway. Later pulled and checked cable and it wasn't even broken. So I inserted the inner-cable back into the housing and instrument cluster and with a friend pulled the cable out at the trans housing.. so with a slow speed drill we twisted it up to see needle on the speedo cluster still working. Bad feeling it's some sort of broken drive gear inside the transmission housing. Unfortunately, due to a ongoing leak I was really low on gear oil at the time it turns out as well. What may be involved in this project. Any access panels to it? Anyone?

Checked the pulley carefully and it seems to be in fairly good shape with what GaryG said is a rubber section built in for dampening, etc. Mine looks to Definitely NOT be separating and looks better than several I eyed at the local wrecking yard yesterday. I'm gonna assume it has been replaced and the one prior to my ownership of the car came apart. I like the idea of loctiting it on re-assembly as I am awaiting parts from 1st subaru right now. Should I apply loc-tite on the shaft and the crank bolt? Thanks for all the help!

I'm doing a timing belt change on my 90 legacy 2.2 which is the first one I have ever done, about 130k on it. So I've gotten it apart (having read all the amazing advice on this board) and realized that the pulley has worn a groove all the way through the outer timing cover which doesn't appear to be warped. When we broke the bolt loose it was definitely tight, so tight as it broke the first socket. This makes me wonder how it could move on the crankshaft at all? There are slight signs of rust and I'm thinking I should replace the pulley when I put it back together with either a new one or a seemingly good one from a wrecking yard. The crankshaft doesn't look damaged or scarred. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.