kanurys

This is kind of a redundant post. There is a great diagram and writeup on this switch in the factory service manual. It's really just a component that disables the egr vac line and distributor vac line until the vehicle is warm. If you read back through the thread, you'd see that it does this by bleeding air into the lines.

Very nice. That is the cleanest mod I've seen in a while. Well... "cleanest"....

Nope, the donor was a front e-brake car. There is a rear e brake setup?

Rear disk break swap to compliment the ej22 swap:headbang:

No need to crawl under your car. Thanks for the info. I'll see about picking one up. I just ordered the Borla Pro XS. This thing is so close to being ready.

Nice. the digi-dash is an afterthought and doesn't really fit into the theme of this build. I've been looking into 2.25" pipe as a cat-back (I have the stock Y pipe and cats installed) into a Borla Pro XS muffler. I really don't want that drone. You think I should get a resonator, hu? I'm not real familiar with the effects of different glass packs/resonators. What diameter and length is your Thrush? Model? The goal is a quiet exhaust at idle and cruising rpm and a nice solid sound when you step on it. Nothing too loud.

Thanks. I think the problem was that my HVAC controls disintegrated when I removed the dash trim and wouldn't go back together. I pulled a new one from the junk yard along with some new switches. The HVAC controls are now the original guts with junkyard face, buttons and lights. Works like a champ and made the install go smoothly. Now the dash is together! I found a Digi dash in the same car that my disk brake swap came from and almost pulled the trigger on that one. Does it work well with the speed signal, tach signal, etc... with the engine swap? Is it plug and play? Next is exhaust and pitch stopper. Any recommendations on mufflers?

Getting the EA82 dash panel over the gauge cluster together is proving a bit difficult. I already broke a few tabs and the HVAC buttons won't engage. Any tricks on this? Maybe I'll pull one at the yard when I go for the disk brakes.

Check out where I put the relays. They're on the fan motor mount screw for easy access.

I found a rear disk setup for $40 at the yard. Any ideas where to get a START button? I was thinking of using a motorcycle button or something.

ECU location - above glove box.

I'll add some more tonight and show you where I hid mine.:cool:

Yeah, I have a bunch. Check out the link for the PHOTO ALBUM. Do you have any pictures of how you mounted your ECU? I'm at the point right now where I have to commit to something.

I still have to install the pitch stopper and button up the dash.

OOF. Sorry to see that happen. Good advice. I had thought of that scenario. You're right, I'll probably encounter a situation like that some day.

Just went on a test drive. That phase II engine makes the GL a ROCKET SHIP.

I can also report that the pull-up resistor described in Numchux's ej2ea swap write-up works great to interface the ECU to the EA82 temp gauge.

It turns out that the chassis was not well grounded to the battery. When I put a heavy gauge wire from a grounding point on the chassis to the - terminal on the battery, the engine idles smooth and continuously. When I remove the wire, it dies. Looks like the computer is grounded to the chassis with my wiring. It's so easy to forget little things like that when one takes month long breaks from a project.

Today it starts and runs for only a brief second. I can hear the injectors clicking after it dies, so I think it's fuel delivery or ignition. I hot-wired the fuel pump to make sure that it is getting fuel. The problem persists.

It turns out that you need the equivalent resistance of a light bulb between the WHITE/Red wire and the battery. Then the alternator will put out 14v. If it is directly connected without the 100 to 150ish ohms, it doesn't put out anything. Now I have another problem. The engine runs great and in closed loop cycle. When you slam a door, it dies. It cuts out almost instantly, but with a little tiny sputter like fuel pump turning off. I tried wiggling all the wires, tapping on the relays and ECU, rocking the car. The only thing that does it is a sharp impact. Same cut happens when I whack the roof with my hand. All my wires are WELL soldered/shrink tubed and there's about a 1/4 tank of gas. The system will idle stably for a half hour, then slam a door and it dies.

OK, so just to make sure: the EJ alternator Black/White wire should through the charge light indicator and to 12v? I should be getting that by connecting EJ Black/White to the EA White/Red. If it doesn't charge then, is the alternator bad? When everything is hooked up, the EA charge light is lit and doesn't change if I connect and disconnect the green EJ alternator plug. hmmm. Bad alt?

So what's the word, dude? I got my EJ22 running. There are still a few bugs to work out, but things are good. Most importantly, my alternator isn't charging the battery. I think the charge light wire isn't hooked up right. Anyways, give us all an update!

ALTERNATOR: I think I found my error. The heavy gauge white wire is hooked up to the battery via the EJ 80 amp stock fuse (EJ fuse/relay box installed in the 1987). The Yellow wire is hooked up from the EJ fuse/relay box to the alt (as stock in the EJ system. This wire wasn't cut and gets 14v from the batt). Here's the error: The Black/White EJ alternator wire is hooked up to the White/Red EA wire. The White/Red wire goes to the fuse on the EA car and is labeled "CHARGE". I think that "CHARGE" fuse serves the purpose of alternator voltage regulator reference for the EA vehicle, as the Yellow EJ wire on the alt harness serves for the EJ vehicles. So I think I need to find the wire that is hooked up to the charge light for the EA vehicle and connect that up to the EJ Black/White wire, if this is correct. The diagrams for the EA vehicle don't really depict a clear alternator wiring or how the EA charge light circuit is designed. That is my main problem, or it wouldn't have been an issue. Does this sound right? If I can't find the wire, I might set it up, myself.

Thanks, I'll check it out.

IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Started and idled on first try. It doesn't charge the battery though. It just runs off of it. I think the charge light wire (Black/White) isn't hooked up correctly. Any ideas? Thanks.