kanurys

Chicago is cool. -Caught in the rain with not exactly rain tires

Thanks Shawn. I'd like to, but I'll get the 2.2 running, first. It's almost there!!!

Got off my third point of contact, took apart my extra ej transmission and used the input shaft as my clutch alignment tool for the EA clutch on my EJ22. Then I installed the EJ22. Turns out the pilot bearing was a TIGHT fit. This was the 3rd alignment tool I have tried to get this thing in. I sanded off some corrosion on the shaft and greased it all up. It mated together with some contest.

Thanks. That makes sense. Low pressure pump keeps the surge tank topped off. Anyways, I'll get the engine running first. Then deal with that. I got the engine in, today. Now that's a clutch alignment tool:

Right on. I am curious about the return from the surge tank to the fuel tank. Is this out of the top so that it returns when full? Is the fuel rail return that normally goes to the tank connected to the top of the surge tank, as well? I'd be happy to build my own, so I'm trying to get a clear picture, first.

How would you guys hook up a surge tank? I've seen several configurations for our vehicles. Some include one fuel pump and some use two. What do you think? I also saw one hooked up on a conversion that had a bung for the fuel temp sensor that is normally in the fuel tank.

Yep. The project is little delayed because I've been out of the state, but not for long!

Correct me if I'm wrong (I've been up late doing research) but it looks like you put the resistors in the wrong spots. They should only have involved connecting "1, 2, and 3." It looks like they're partially on 1 and 3 and on the other pins, as well. Since it reacted strangely when you turned it on and then went dead, something might have fried. I appreciate your persistence, though. I'm going to get some sleep and look at it with fresh eye tomorrow...

5/8" barb, hose and a few hose clamps shoud do the trick. You want to suck through it right after the drivers side head. (L/H drive) That is, if your system is hooked up properly.

The components of the can do not really filter anything. They help certain oil vapors condense in the can instead of your intake manifold. Before you try to build one, first understand what the PCV system does. The FSM has a great diagram and description. Connecting the two valve covers will do almost nothing. When you understand the PCV system, then you can see that the low pressure on the PCV valve side of the can sucks air/fuel blow-by and oil vapors up to be combusted in the cylinders, again, not to mention all the condensed water in the crank case that gets evaporated at running temp. It does this in certain conditions when pressures on either side of the valve are appropriate. Those oil vapors gum stuff up and need to be captured in the can. Now go study the PCV system and tell us where you think the can should be placed.

I like my solder sucker. I'm looking for an old fridge compressor to convert into a power sucker:Flame: Since there are several controls on one knob, you might want to find a way to test the unit with several resistor values on a bread board before soldering your final setup. I'm sure you could find close single resistor values to the stock numbers, but several in combo would get the job done, too. You could even make your own balance knob if you feel creative. Anyways, if you do any mods, make sure you disconnect/bend/clip the pins on the original knob so that portion of the multi-function knob is disconnected. I glanced on Google for the circuit schematicvfor that radio. No luck. Does anyone have a resource for this?

don't forget to match the rear diff ratio to the trans or put in ea82 d/r rear diff and custom axles

As GrossGary said, you might try cleaning the pot, first. DeoxIT is a good product for this purpose.

Just putting a resistor across 1-2 and 2-3 will be putting it in parallel with the potentiometer. You would first need to remove the old pot. It is more common to have resistances in that higher range than lower stuff because it reduces the noise floor in a circuit. Anyways, there are two likely pin-outs. Voltage divider 1: 1 - ground or hot 2 - reference (voltage control signal sent back to the head unit) 3 - hot or ground (opposite of pin 1) OR Voltage divider 2: 1 - right voltage control signal 2 - hot 3 - left voltage control signal Either way, when set to "center", 1-2 and 2-3 should read the same value, give or take probably a small percentage of error. This is not necessarily true while the part is soldered to the board. As you turn the pot slowly, the values should move in a trend, not jump around a lot. The most accurate way to test the pot is to remove it with a solder sucker ($10 at radioshack and $0 how-to on google) or solder wick. Then do your test. If it is bad (which it appears like it is) search for a replacement online and solder it back in. Don't run your iron too hot or touch it to the pins too long, as you can damage the component. You could also hook up a bread board to the board and test with a variety - but related to the original resistor - of values or just get a working 50k pot from radioshack to play with. Then you would know that the problem is isolated to the component instead of somewhere else in the head unit. I hope this helps. Have fun, and remember to have everything you need to make a good sandwich on hand.

The fix didn't work. The engine/trans still wouldn't close the last 3/4". Then I made an alignment tool. Still didn't work. I have an extra transmission that I need to take apart, anyways, so I'll use the input shaft from that as my alignment tool. It seems like the input shaft just wont engage with the pilot bearing for the life of it. VERY FRUSTRATING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! AM I MISSING SOMETHING? On another note, the fuel pump installed very nicely, and it seems like switching of the return and vent lines works without leaks, using 1/4" fuel line. I used a small tube bender and connected the EJ power steering lines to the EA rack and EA rack extension lines. It feels like the flare nuts bottomed out so I hope it seals. Maybe I should use 2 o-rings? Any thoughts? I'll be taking a 3 week break on this project as I'll be out of town doing sprite research (like the phenomenon above storm clouds) near the Mexico-USA border. When I get back, it's time to go 4 wheeling... hopefully. p.s. yellow jackets very dead.

By "fresh air" do you mean it terminates to the atmosphere? I'll have to check out the diagrams.

Maybe it was a bad Subaru ECU? There are two modes that it cycles through for controlling the fuel pump. It sounds like it wasn't switching to the second mode "run." First mode is "Prime/Start." But now its a moot point. Fun times with fuel mapping Can you get a profile for the EJ22 for that computer? If you don't mind me asking, what is it and wat did it cost you?

Here's my adaptation of the FI pump to the carb-version fuel tank. I found some high quality 175 psi fuel hose at Ace Hardware, of all places - and in 5 sizes! Then when I went to install it, I got chased out by a nest of yellow jackets. It's only been sitting in that spot for a week. Just hit it with some Raid.

I fixed it by heating the plastic in boiling water, then aligning it and while under pressure cooling it with cold water. Friday I put the EJ pitch-stopper onto the EA trans and stared at the empty engine bay. I'm currently trying to get the fuel lines sorted out. I'm going to switch the return and vent lines on the EA car so it will flow better on return. I'm having trouble sourcing the correct line size. Not a big deal, but just another thing to do. Also the FI pump input is like 7/16 or 5/8" and the carb pump input is 5/16" or so. I hope I don't have problems between the tank and the pump. Its looking more and more like the FI tank swap is the clean way to do it, but I just want to get it running, first.

Well, there's your problem.

Tried dropping it in last week. The pilot bearing and trans input shaft would not play nice. I took it out and stuck the clutch alignment tool in and it was perfectly aligned. I'll try again this week... Maybe there is a little corrosion from sitting so long, or something. thoughts?

I picked up one of these for $11 on sale: TOOL

I like the idea of using an FI car's gas tank. I could probably snag one from the same car as the pump I got at the yard. As for lines, I think I'll swap the EA vent and return lines as the vent line is bigger than the return line and closer to the EJ return line size, all the way to the tank. Then at the tank I'll have to drop down to the smaller size, unless I switch tanks.