kanurys

Way to recycle.

You've got your units wrong. In english units it is: 147.5 hp at 3600 rpm 258.1 ft lbs at 1800 rpm!! that's badass.

I'm on the same schedule. I decided to use the stock EA82 clutch that I have. It has 3000 miles on it and when it burns out or if I have problems, I'll replace it with the XT6. I budgeted for one, but the company I ordered it through told me that EXEDY recalled them for pressure plate failure. The redesign might be out, already... anyone know anything on this?

Well, then we know they won't break.

Also, the system bleeds air in instead of cutting off air vacuum so that the single three port switch and actuate the two seperate systems with one vacuum bleed signal and still keep the egr and distributor systems independant of eachother.

Yeah, I thought we're talking about a Weber hooked up to a single port. I think the advance only pulls in one direction: advanced. Also, the thermo-vac switch does not cut off vacuum to egr and timing. It bleeds air in from the air cleaner when cold. This effectively disables those components as well injects extra air to the Carb mixture when the specific ports start to suck, I.e. when your open up the throttle while the choke is still closed. At least that's how subaru designed it. I'm sure other manufacturers have other systems.

+1 ^ I should have been more clear. 3 turns is bad. 2.5 turns is ok. Don't try to up the jet size because its not starting. That's the worst thing to do. Move the timing back slightly until it starts. This is also why its good to have the vacuum-thermo switch hooked up. It ensures no vac advance when cold starting. Also, the more advace, the harder it will start. Find a nice in-between setting.

Sounds about right. 30 degrees sound a bit too high for an EA 82. Its ok to run the idle jet more than 2 turns out. You shouldn't need bigger jets just because you advanced timing. More advance should increase temps as well as low rpm torque.

The distributor advance does need disabling if it's not warm. The engine keeps timing retarded until it is fully warmed up. In a fuel injected vehicle, the knock sensor and cold-run-open-circuit mode helps with this. In a carbed vehicle, the thermo-vac switch helps with this. These engines aren't just designed to do this for lower emissions, they run much better in these modes when tuned properly.

Yeah... Cars suck. They're expensive and expensive. Why the heck do I own two? I still can't fully answer that question. Anyways, get a good bike and a job (good commuter bike = 2 tanks of gas). I used to commute 6 miles each way, 5 days a week on my bike for years. The great thing was my beloved cars only put about 3000 miles on a year and I had money to UPGRADE. Tell Progressive that.

I am an engineer, and a VISUAL person Need pix. Also, I'm bad at english.

Your're right, it will work fine if you let it warm up for 5 or 10 minutes before you drive. The purpose of the thermo-vac switch is to let you get on your journey right away without putting excessive wear on your engine. It just bleeds air into the vacuum advance and egr vac lines to disable them while in a lower temp range. Also, it lets a little extra air into the carb after start so the automatic choke has good mixture. As far as idle RPM, I had mine set up at 900 warm idle so it was a bit less of a transition when you stepped on it. I guess it all depends on your driving conditions. For lots of stop and go and idle time at lights, you might want it lower to save gas; Lots of highway cruising (like in my case) doesn't really require a lot of idle time, so I set it at 900ish. That's why these carbs are fun - personalization.

The port on the Weber right above and next to the timing advance port is for egr. The egr and timing advance lines must be routed through the thermo vacuum switch on the manifold next to the thermostat. I have a description of how to do this in my engine writeup.

pinging is detonation before the piston is in the right position and ready for a spark. It can be caused by early spark or dieseling. This burns valves over long periods of time. You want it to run as advanced as possible without ever pinging. Running the EGR also helps reduce this. Then go tune your carb

yep. back it off ccw

when you retune the carb, try a half or one more turn open on the idle mixture screw... remember, one thing at a time.

ok, loosen the two bolts that hold the distributor but don't remove them, just slightly loosen them. Now, looking down on the dist. rotate it about 1 to 2 degrees Clock-wise (manual timing advance). Tighten the bolts to *snug* and see if it made a difference in how it responds when floored. Take it for a drive. Turn it another degree if desired. When you floor it or are climbing a long big hill, if it pings a lot back the advance off a bit till the pinging goes away. When satisfied, torque the bolts appropriately and re-tune the carb one more time. Rotating the distributor can be done while the engine is running if the bolts are still in place.

It can exhibit the same external symptoms. First, do you have the vacuum advance hooked up between the distributor and the carb?

rockauto has them

What is the rpm at idle and fully warm? How many turns our is your idle mixture screw? Is the choke fully opened when it is warm? Did you check and clean the spark plugs like mentioned before? Did you verify your ignition timing like we mentioned? Poor ignition timing advance will cause this sort of symptom. If it idles fine and it moves through the primary barel fine, then it might be a jetting or transitional problem with the secondary barel.

I thought the Chevy 2wd wheels had too small of a center hole ...

Idasho, you should make a thread about this rebuild. We all like diamond plate.

No prob. Oh, and 1/2" bit with lots of cutting oil.

FYI, redrilled alloys is a big BAD. I have two sets: Allied Armament 15" wheels. I think you can still get them from someone at AA, just not from their website. If you email them they'll direct you to the right guy. 80's Mitzubishi Montero rims. They have a thicker and hardened section where the holes are. It appears to be stronger and receptive to drilling. I used a junk yard hub and knocked out 2 studs as a template. Still need to counter-sink with 60 degree chamfer, I think... As for center hole size, I think the 2 wheel drive chevy pattern is ok, but the center hole is too small. The chevy 4x4 center hole is the one you want. All the japanese 6 bolt stuff will work. The center hole on those is ok. It's pretty easy to check since you can measure your old subaru rims. good luck and keep asking questions!