kanurys

My muffler must be balding.

It's a power supply

I know there are a million of these threads, but this might be helpful: I replaced the burnt out hvac console lights (all 3 of them) in my 1998 Legacy Outback with high intensity 3mm warm white led's. The green rubbers from the old burnt out lights fit right over the new ones. The light level is perfect and looks stock when its in the car, meaning it's not too bright at night. I took the liberty to wash everything since it was sticky from years of coffee and who knows what... looked like beer. I don't even drink beer. Once you have everything disassembled except the circuit board off of the face plate, you'll have to tug a little harder than you might want to pop it loose from the button faces. This sort of thing scares me, but after close examination, the buttons just pop onto the end of the switches. Do this carefully so you don't bend the other led's that illuminate when you select specific buttons. Specs: 3 led's in parallel each led: 20mA 3.2-3.4 forward current resistors: I calculated about 180 ohms at 14v. I put two 100 ohm resistors in series (200 ohms) just to be safe. See picture, below. Before you put the whole assembly back together, plug it into the car and make sure the led's all light up. If any don't, pull them off the board and re-install them 180 degrees from their prior orientation. Then pop the board into the face plate. You can follow the traces on the board around and see which pins you need to put the resistors on. It's the end two on the passenger side. I trimmed the ribbon cable back a bit to make this easier. I also put a red led in the ash tray light. Led: 20 mA, 3v foreward voltage, Resistor: 680 ohms. Also, my Kenwood stereo display stopped working about 2 years ago. I've been flying by braille that long. There were no other instances on the internet 2 years ago. Then I happened to check for the problem yesterday and there was an overwhelming number of hits. Luckily someone figured out that a few resistors needed re-flowing, hence taking the dash apart. I thought I'd do the lights, too.

That poor GL is just sitting there without an engine. I need to get cracking on that EJ swap. Darn school. I replaced the burnt out hvac console lights (all 3 of them) in my 1998 Legacy Outback with high intensity 3mm warm white led's. The green rubbers fit right over them. The light level is perfect and looks stock when its in the car, meaning it's not too bright at night. I took the liberty to wash everything since it was sticky from years of coffee and who knows what...... looked like beer. I don't even drink beer. Specs: 3 led's in parallel each led: 20mA 3.2-3.4 forward current resistors: I calculated about 180 ohms at 14v. I put two 100 ohm resistors in series (200 ohms) just to be safe. See picture. I also put a red led in the ash tray light. Led: 20 mA, 3v foreward voltage, Resistor: 680 ohms. Also, my Kenwood stereo display stopped working about 2 years ago. I've been flying by braille that long. There were no other instances on the internet 2 years ago. Then I happened to check for the problem yesterday and there was an overwhelming number of hits. Luckily someone figured out that a few resistors needed re-flowing, hence taking the dash apart. I thought I'd do the lights, too.

So, how did it go?

Just drop the steering rack down (4 bolts). That should give you enough room and play to get it on there. Just be carful of your steering lines.

A guy drove his 300,000+ mile loyale 350 miles to my house. I sold him my carbed ea82 and swapped it out for him and he drove off for his place. Good luck, guy. Enjoy the rebuilt engine... so not what I did to my Soob, but someone's Soob.

If you have the gumption, eliminate both the air suck valves and the anti after-burn valve. Your engine will run much better. I plugged the AAV with a big bolt in a shot piece of hose. Here is the block off plate I made on my heads. Though they're EA82 heads, it's the same concept.

You're right about Colorado trails eating tires. I'd also venture to say that more of the trails than not are more soob friendly than f350 friendly. I can get through most rails without touching reverse. There is certainly a bit of common sense that plays into your survival too. These roads. I've seen more bigger rigs stuck than little ones and even little ones stuck with poor decision making. The risk is there for even seasoned Colorado 4x4-ers. If you go prepared, you'll be better off than most up here.

I just threw one of these on my EJ22 on the stand:clap:

Oh, please do. If I had a scope, I would have gone out to the garage and checked the two 5 minutes ago and included it in this post. Then we can decide how to manipulate the signal with diodes, capacitors, etc.. Otherwise this is a complete guessing game. My guess is that the EA cluster vss is putting out a 12v pulse to the CCU and the EJ ECU outputs a positive-high, 0v-low PWM signal at a much lower voltage and different duty cycle (much faster) than the EA vss. Diodes may have an effect of cutting the frequency in half to something near what the EA CCU can read, but doesn't really correlate to anything related to rpm or speed. It just happens to change frequency somehow with rpm. We need the o-scope data. It might be useful to see the EA vss and the EJ vss as well as the EJ tach signal from the ECU.

Yeah, Helicoil it. A Helicoil in aluminum is a stronger connection than just aluminum threads. It is in an easy spot to drill, so just mark your bit depth with a piece of tape and go for it. I like to make a pilot hole with a reverse drill bit, first. Sometimes the sheered off bolt will come out with that. If that doesn't work, then use the correct bit for the Helicoil kit and stick that in there. The whole process usually only takes a few minutes.

Nice setup. Mine's a stick. I hear ya on the airing down. My project list for the 87 GL includes a York compressor on the Phase II EJ22. I can't stand those little 12v well, yeah, pissant inflators. Oh yeah, you need a skid plate too. I can't tell you how many times I've relied on mine. "Honey, what was that clunk?" "Nothing." Yeah, the auto might just do it on the way up the trail.

I spend a lot of time on the 4x4 roads in my lifted 87 GL in Colorado. I find that clearance helps, but the main attribute that helps on these rough passes is low end gearing. There is some stuff that my dual range transmission is not low enough for with the torque of an EA82, even a good run at an obstacle isn't enough oomph. Speed is limited to crawling due to how rough the terrain is. Also, you'll burn your breaks up if you don't have low range when descending these big mountains. Another thing is that at those altitudes, your engine doesn't have nearly the power that you're used to. I *feel* like you loose somewhere around 40% at 10000+ ft elevation. Heck my 1998 Legacy Outback is like a rocket ship at sea level, pulling a loaded vehicle up steep hills in 5th gear. It can't even pull it's own empty weight up some of these paved CO highways without a downshift when driving around 8000. Finally, tires. The rocks out here are sharp. If your tires aren't fairly new and the rubber isn't soft so it conforms to pokey things well, you will probably get a flat. I've had it happen with even new A/T tires on some trails. Side wall cuts are common out here. There are some passes that aren't so rocky, but are just as beautiful if tires are a limiting factor. In conclusion, since I have a legacy outback like yours (but with 2" lift and Yokahama Geolander tires) I thought it would make the point that I won't take it on any of these 4x4 passes - mainly due to gearing and clearance. I hope this helps and gives you a sense of what kind of vehicle to choose for this trip so that you have a good time and don't get into trouble. I see people in sticky situations every summer and wouldn't want it to happen to you. September is a great time of year. You can see the aspen change color at altitude. Let me know if you come near Durango, CO. Maybe we can catch a few back roads down here. P.S. You only go down Black Bear

Also, I'm just curious if the EJ rack increased your turning radius from the EA rack, in your experience.

Interesting. I have a rack from the 99 impreza that I parted which I would like to try this with. I've been reading on THIS thread that you have to tap the EJ inner tie-rods down a little further and maybe cut the end off a little to retain toe adjustability durring alignment. I asked for a little clarification on that and Gloyale said everything worked out easily without cutting more threads on the inner tie-rods. That is nice to hear.

Thanks guys! I'll be using the rack from a 99 impreza that I parted out (same as my donor car for the engine swap) and going into my 1987 GL.

Gloyale, I know this is an old thread, but I'd like some clarification on the rack/tierod configuration. What exactly did you do to retain toe adjustability with the EJ rack on the EA82 with stock hubs/control arms? Which combo of inner and outer tie-rod ends fit the EJ rack and EA82 4-bolt hubs? I'm about to tackle this project with my EJ swap. Thanks.

Plus, the EJ power steering lines will fit with zero modifications. It looks like you'd have bend the hard lines on the EA rack to get a good fitment. So after widening the input shaft hole, did the rack just bolt right up? I can't remember how the EA rack attaches, but I seem to recall that they're different.

Sweet, a spare dip stick:-\ Would you be so kind as to take some pictures and describe the modifications to get the impreza rack to fit? I think the rest of us would be interested. Thanks, again.

yes please

There is currently an EJ22 from a 1999 Impreza Outback Sport on an engine stand in my garage. Also a nicely cut down wiring harness , computer and full exhaust. Any ideas for a computer box and where to put it? I was thinking amo can in the spare tire area... Here's the NEW THREAD!!!!!!!!

Just got Yokahama Geolander A/T's on the 98 legacy outback (w/ 2" lift) just in time for more snow.