kanurys

Oh yeah, I'll reseal that oil separator. I think a 1999 should already be metal from the factory. I've gone both ways with the rear main seal. This engine has 180,000 miles on it so I might just do it. It looks like it was well taken care of. Oil pan gasket is not leaking, just minor dampness around the valve covers, totally dry timing area, etc... There is a mobile-1 oil filter on it (I only use subaru) and a stock air filter, so it looks like the P.O. was fairly diligent. The clutch/flywheel has a few signs of heat-scoring but Its not getting reused so who cares. I'm actually really interested to pull the clutch off of the EA82 and see what it looks like. I've been the only driver on that clutch (a first for me), though there are many uncommon factors (large diameter tires, only about 3000 miles on it, hard 4x4 driving, etc...). Any tips on getting the entire wiring harness out of the donor car to accompany the engine? I'll just go slow and have patience getting it removed.

Got it out. Once those bottom bolts were off, it came out like cake. The engine looks good. Its currently on a stand. I think I'll just do the basic reseal and oil pan with all subaru gaskets and seals. I should have enough saved up by that time to get an adapter plate from SJR. I plan to mill/grind the holes on the EA82 flywheel myself, using the EJ flywheel as a template. Thanks for your help, everyone.

Yuck. That carb is over complicated for its purpose. I agree with subaruglkid. Understand how it works before unplugging all those vacuum hoses. If you're really feeling like an upgrade, find a weber or empi knock-off of a weber DGEV and learn about it. Those are much more simple to work on and efficient. You can probably pick up a used one for $100 and an adapter plate for $40. As for the rebuild, lots of carb cleaner and replace all the vac hoses with new hose. There are usually rebuild kits available for this carburator and I'd reccomend that. Get a nice organized space where you can lay out each little part and label it or something. It will take a little time, but is worth the rebuild.

Thanks guys. I'm an old school subie guy and haven't separated anything japanese with more than 4 bolts, before. I'm sure it's because I missed two on the bottom. Yes to pitch stopper undone, yes to mount studs clearing and lots of rocking. Miles, if I am just pulling the engine and selling the transmission later in the partout do I need to mess with the clutch at this point (yes, it's hydraulic)? This is my donor car for a phase II EJ22 swap into my 1987 GL. It was rolled and the body is pretty much trashed, but the guts are great.

Nice recovery. My valves were starting to melt just after I bought the car. When I rebuilt my ea82 I capped off the ASV ports on the heads. I think it even runs better. I kept the important stuff (EGR, PCV system, Cat) both for engine health and environmental friendliness.

I just rebuilt my blower motor two days ago. It worked intermittently when I hit a big bump and eventually stopped working. The carbon brushes were stuck in their guides and weren't making contact with the rotor. It appears that the brush springs rusted and got stuck. I cleaned up the internals and lightly sanded the rotor surface that the carbon brushes contact with fine grit sandpaper. Then blew everything out with compressed air. The bushings are meant to be dry - no grease. It works like its brand new and cost me nothing. Also make sure you have reasonable voltage at the wiring harness that plugs into the motor. This is how I isolated the problem to the motor and not bad wiring. Rebuilding the motor is very easy. If you have any questions let me know. Also, proceed very carefully so you can put it back together just like it came apart. Do it on some newspaper and wear cruddy clothes because that carbon dust gets on everything.

I'm posting this partly to blow off some steam and partly for your advice. I've pulled Subaru engines and transmissions before, but none of them were this finicky. Everything up to this point has gone smoothly. I'm trying to separate the engine from the transmission and it won't budge past about 3mm. It's suspended with the engine mount studs just out of the holes and I've tried wiggling, prying, different combinations of the lift and a jack underneath. There are 6 bolts on the bell housing for this year, right? Any advice?

Its snowy out and my blower fan stopped working. Voltage was good at the harness so I rebuilt the motor and we have heat again. Also found a phase 2 ej22 impeza sport as an engine donor.

Thanks. I've been busy with school and not doing much car related work. I've added another radiator fan and a front skid plate since my last post update. The heater fan seems to have a mind of its own and might need replacing. The relay, wiring, switch, etc.. are more or less working fine.

Thanks for the link to the service manual. I used a thermo switch available on rockauto. The stock setup was a two-spade switch. There is also a single-pin style which you have to ground the housing to get it to work. If you're rewiring the fan circuit I'd recommend the two spade type as it is easier to connect to.

I want

Put a set of Hella 500 lights in place of the fog lights. They fit the hole perfectly and are 55 watts just like the stock lights so the original circuit can power them directly. About $75 a set. As for springs, I'd keep the stock ride height as to no mess with suspension geometry but get a set of HD King springs in stock height, not the lift springs. If you go with a lift spring you'll be working out many other bugs that accompany it...

Thanks. I'm not afraid of any complex math. I just need to have a better understanding of the dynamics of the McPherson design. I think caster can be slightly adjusted by sliding the transverse link bushing sideways. Also, I have experience doing one other 4" lift on my 1987 gl wagon. I'm just not sure what else I need to consider on this newer model. Anyways, thanks so much for your interest and help.

Aside from one front axle getting trashed, the 2" lift has held up well. Contrary to my earlier feelings, I really like the HD front springs. They enable me to dive into pretty big dips at higher speeds than with stock springs and they just eat it up and feel soft if you hit a bump really hard. Since the outer edges of the front tires are wearing much more quickly than the rest of the tread face, I'm looking into some options. Fairtax is in the right ballpark on diagnosing the wear problem as a caster issue. This brings me to another subject on the topic of lifting. I'd like to design and build a lift to bring the car to a complete 4" over stock with 1" axle stress. An effect of this would mean the control arm would be a little more horizontal and decrease the extreme caster... Or do I need to move the wheel forwards/strut mount backwards to get my caster closer to stock from where it is now? Remember, the springs already give me 2" of lift. Here are the pieces I think I'd need: 2" camber-corrected strut towers, front and back 3" engine cross-member blocks 3" transmission cross-member/transverse-link(control arm) blocks 3" rear diff cross-member blocks ?" steering extension other misc parts (coolant hoses, brake hoses, etc...) Any other things come to mind for the project? New tires are in order, of course. Here are a few issues I foresee: 1) My camber correction on the strut towers must be different than if I were lifting a stock strut/spring setup. This is due to the dimensions of the triangle formed by the <body/control arm/strut> being changed. The only thing that stays the same is the control arm, so I'll try to keep the angle at the ball joint close to stock so alignment is possible and CASTER can be close to stock. Is this a reasonable assumption? Does anyone have some insight on how to calculate the proper angle for the spacer offset? Would someone please give me a measurement on the front and rear stock shock length from the center of where the ball joint passes through the control arm to the bottom surface of the strut mount (I'm a brewer and if you come to Durango, CO I'll make sure all of your beer needs are satiated)? Also, any relevant theory on the subject of suspension correction would be appreciated. 2) not sure Thanks for all your help, everyone.

No worries, man. I run a little lean at 6500 ft with a 125 primary, if that helps.130 was too rich up here when I feathered the throttle.

Um, I don't think your math is right. Cross-sectional area of the bore is (pi)r^2 and since pi's cancel when you get it all written out: Try the square root of (70^2 + 81^2) = 107, so an equivalent single jet of about 214 wide open. 155 jets on both would be the square root of [(2)(77.5^2)] = 110 so an equivalent single wot jet of 220. That is all with rounding to sig-figs, of course. Anyone, please correct me if I'm wrong. I don't want to be supplying inaccurate information on this forum. By the way, I totally respect the contributions Loyale 2.7 Turbo has made to this forum. I'm just keepin' it real.

I have 125 primary and 130 secondary (for when I FLOOR it) on the ea82. I upped the air correctors a size or so, as well. I don't really drive this vehicle below 6500 feet. Only higher. When I get above 9000 ft I close the idle mixture screw 1/4 turn and it runs perfectly at each altitude. This means it's gutless at 6500 and gutless at 10000 ft, but she runs perfectly smooth. I got the restriction dialed in on the kegerator, too.

Thanks for clarifying. That's kind of what I was trying to get at in a more convoluted way of speaking. I didn't know that COP system was on the turbos, though.

Also, since each of 2 coils runs 2 cylinders, one spark per coil is wasted each crank rotation. Because of the 2 coil system it can fire every crank rotation and be triggered off of the crank. These engines might need 4 coils or another method to trigger the spark from the cam sensor. (multiply by 2?)

Yeah, that's kind of the conclusion I came to. I think a 1" would help a lot. Then I would have to extend steering, too. Fairfax, that sounds like the culprit. It's not extreme, but will get worse. I can sort of feel the wheels flop over at or near full lock and loose their return-to-center. Obviously the shop didn't pay much attention to that. I'll ask them for the print out from their fancy computerized alignment system. How the heck do you even adjust caster on these cars?

We usually get a fist snow around halloween or by thanksgiving. I'm still looking for a donor and the EA82 just keeps on running. Gutless supreme! I'll let you guys know when I come across something.

Its been about 4000 miles and I've shredded a front inner axle boot. It was about 10000 miles old and MWE brand. I replaced it with a NEW NAPA axle and slid the boot up the shaft about 1 cm to relive tension. The front tires are visibly warn on the outer edges more than the inner edges. The alignment shop told me it came out great, but obviously is wearing unevenly. Should I get lower camber bolts for the front to increase adjustability? Ride is still great but not too harsh. Nice and stiff. I'd say 7/10 on handling and 6/10 on reliability. Some days I trust the 87 with 4" lift a bit more.

Any tips on block heaters for this winter? I've looked at the ebay oil plug type and wondered what you guys think. Here, in Durango, it gets in the single digits regularly and drops below zero a few times during the winter. (summers are perfect, though ) My vehicles: 2004 Impreza Sport - mostly stock 1998 Legacy Outback - 2" lift 1987 GL Wagon (still EA82) - 4" lift / 27's All are running full synthetic oil.

Well, if you think about it, when you drop the cross member 3" the control arm and the steering rack are dropped 3" together, so the steering geometry is preserved. If you push the suspension down 4" (1" more than the cross member) you still preserve steering geometry because it changes the tie-rod and control arm from the same point. Maybe it's not "factory" ideal, but it sure lets me out jeep some jeeps in CO. Oh, and it's still stable at 60 mph on the highway.

I really like my Pedders HD lift springs. They took a long time (4 months) to get here, but are worth it. They're $100 less than the King springs. I'd run Kings if I could afford it. The rears needed a 1/2 inch spacer I made with HDPE off of ebay. Stock camber adjustment is adequate for an alignment. The car is up 2" all around and corners better than before. You can put 200lbs of cargo in back and it sits nicely and handles great.