kanurys

I've done several O2 sensors. In my experience the crow's foot type O2 sensor tool ($10ish) is what you need for the low clearances on a soob. The socket type is just too long. Soak it (cold) the night before you try to remove it. Good luck.

Thanks for the input, guys. This helps me shape my view for what to look for in the hunt for a new power plant. I agree with everyone about the cost of a rebuild and getting value out of your rebuild. I'll keep looking since this one I previously spoke of is kind of an enigma, though cheap, and near the end of it's life. I put a post up a while back about the EJ25 (all of them) fitting in the EA82 frame, so that is a great option, now, to my knowledge. There are TONS of subarus in CO, and therefore quite a few salvaged vehicles. Actually it kind of makes the NW look like a Cadillac state. I grew up in the Willamette valley, so I know how prevalent the scoob is there. I'm willing to put $400 ish into a rebuild on an engine so I would like to choose one that is worth my time. A phase II SOHC would be perfect... now I have to wait for one to come by. There are so many EA vehicles around Durango that I should have no problem selling my rebuilt and proven EA82 for what I have into it. Heck, one just went on westslope CL that looks like it was never ever cleaned in its lifespan for $200.

I'm farmiliar with how engines wear and age. I'm looking at rebuilding a 2.2 and would like the board's experience and advice on what parts I should replace. Would it be prudent to consider a cheap EJ22 with near 300,000 miles? Should I plan on splitting the block and installing new rings, etc., ontop of a head rebuild? The engine I am considering is in a 1992 Legacy and currently running. Maybe a compression test would be in order. If applicable I'd buy the whole car and strip the components I need for my 87 GL (engine, ecu/harness , 5-lug) Thanks

Oh, right. I forgot you're a rust belt resident. I was talking about big rocks, etc...

And you'd definitely want to protect that investment with a skid plate...

Wow, thanks for all the info. Excellent work. I'll definitely do an eBay header like that.

Keep us posted. I would like to do something similar and am learning from your experience . Would you describe the flow path from the engine to the end and what parts from what vehicles you pieced together? I'm curious how things bolted up and sounded vs. stock parts.

also, how do you like the exhaust routing you did with the header and output by the rear wheel?

That might keep criminals at bay, too.

right on. Pulling the dash sounds like kind of like a pain in any car. I will probably just pull the cluster and lower panels and do it that way. I'm not sure if I want to keep/rebuild the A/C or not. I'm not much of a comfort creature, nor vein. It will probably go. Any thoughts, anyone?

looks good, xbeerd. What all does it take to pull the dash? I've always kind of shied away from such projects, though I know I can do it, just because of laziness. I'd do it for an EJ.

So when it comes to ej25 SOHC's am I correct in assuming all of them have to single pig-tail of wires instead of the split pig tail like the early ej22's (90-?)?

Nice. I was going to suggest an impreza cat, too. Then I thought it would be trading mice for a hair problem. A rag soaked in ammonia repels animals pretty well. Or try one of those ultrasonic vermin repellers - usually for the garage - that you plug into a wall outlet like stated above.

Off topic, I undid the cv boot band and slid the small end of the boot up 1-1.5 cm to relive the strain on the boot on the lifted rig, then reinstalled the band. a hose clamp works, too.

Thanks for your input, guys. Originally, I was only looking at ej22's, but now my options have expanded. When a deal comes by, I'm ready to pounce on it and then do a rebuild. I have a DOHC in my legacy outback, which has convinced me that it will be the only one I ever own. From working on so many SOHC subaru engines, EA and EJ, I know I'd like a solid lifter engine. If the 2.2 comes my way I'll put torque cams in it. If a 2.5 comes my way I'll keep it stock. This vehicle is mostly a crawler/jeep trail car. I've found several spots up high in CO where I have plenty of grip at 3+ tires but the weber'ed EA82 simply runs out of grunt - especially above 10,000 ft. The weber is jetted for high altitude and runs best around 9,000-10,000. This tells me that, up high, displacement and fuel delivery counts for a lot. Hence, interest in the EJ25 On that note, I was actually surprised when I road tripped my EJ25D down to sea level in Oregon. The power increase was huge. I could actually accelerate up a hill in 5th. It feels like it's running at about 75% full power up here in Durango.

Nice! Was it a pretty standard engine swap for you or were there any unforeseen hurdles? Thanks for the pics. I'll be doing this on a wagon with 3" sub frame drop blocks, so i'll have to figure out something for the airbox. Maybe this is another reason the off-road guys use the ej22. Does yours have a lift or is it stock?

Thanks guys. I think my confusion in memory was between the ea81 and ea82. I'll look up the RX, thanks for the info. Does anybody have pics of a 2.5 SOHC in an EA82 body?

I know the DOHC won't fit in my 1987 GL wagon without notching the frame. Would a 2.5 SOHC fit without much modification?

That is a great idea. I will try this. Could you slide the end of the boot up on one with a band already on it, or did you cut the band, slide, and reinstall a new one? With ej axles, the boot seems to be more of an issue than small strain. Right now I am heading out to my garage to replace an MWE axle on my 1998 legacy outback with 2" suspension lift. It's the drivers front inner boot. It looks like someone took a weed whacker to it. I believe it has 10100 miles on the axle. It was fine before the lift, which was installed about 3000 miles ago.

I think that front passenger inner boot is a common failure because it is right next to a HOT catalytic converter. When you do a suspension lift the overall tension of the inner boots are increased.

Skid plate installed on the 87 GL (with 4" SJR lift and 27 A/T's), and tested. We did the Silverton to Ouray portion of the Alpine Loop in CO. This is highly recommended for you axle-breakers. I must say, I got a lot of looks from Texans in fancy rental rubicons. Maybe I should reverse those capitals... They sure don't understand 4x4 etiquette. Oh, I also installed a 2nd radiator fan. That thing is key to keeping a 190F-210F temp range with subaru thermostat. I also figured out that my great running ea82 webber setup is not so great when extremely tipped towards the passenger side. I guess it becomes flooded or something.

Also, I built a lift kit with 1" HDPE I bought off ebay for $40 and a jigsaw. Same purpose as in your link.

My 1998 outback is doing great with a 2" strut/spring lift after about 3000 miles. I guess that means you could just throw in the outback spacers, outback struts and a 1" strut lift with no problems at all. I installed a 2" strut spacer lift on a 1998 forester and it blew the right front inner cv boot constantly, for what it's worth...? OOPS, DOUBLE POST. PLEASE DELETE

My 1998 outback is doing great with a 2" strut/spring lift after about 3000 miles. I guess that means you could just throw in the outback spacers, outback struts and a 1" strut lift with no problems at all. I installed a 2" strut spacer lift on a 1998 forester and it blew the right front inner cv boot constantly, for what it's worth...?