kanurys

Hello Everyone! I'm still here and still own my great Subaru. I've figured out a few electrical problem and have a good.... local car. It eats axles and I plan to go back to stock front springs from the Ford Tempo spring that are currently in there(I think I have a thread on the Ford springs on here). That should relive some of the axle angle strain and increase compliance. It will obviously decrease clearance, but it's how you drive it, right? My wife, dog and I were going to go on a hike in the mountains and the car kept dying when I stepped on the brake hard... She kindly pointed out that a few wires might be touching on the dummy conversion box I had dangling at her feet to, supposedly, make the car work better. Now she's the chief electrical diagnosis go to person (funny because I'm the electronics repair guy, professionally). "Why are those wires touching? Could that be it?" It's been running great ever since. I've recently acquired a 3d printer and am going to print something to hold a phone for a Torque Pro speedometer. There are a few tweaks that would make this rig more reliable and safe, like good alignment and better axle angles, etc... I'll probably make other threads for this, but I wanted to touch on this thread again for the fun of it. I hope everyone is still out there trying to keep these old rigs going!

Gotchya. Thanks. I did further research and came to the same conclusion.

My other thought was to pull the shaft assembly, shim the bearing housing and pour 3M window weld to make a poly bushing in place.

Thanks for the information. I'm not sure EJ shafts are compatible with EA shafts. Anyone know about this?

That seems about right from my own research. Thank you for the advice. I agree about the staked in u-joints and increased power handling. With our remote location (Durango, CO), it's hard to find a decent driveline shop. I'll explore the options of a custom single piece shaft as well as replacing the carrier bearing and post back.

I was affraid someone would post this. Of course its GD... It might just be better with a single piece, anyways with all the vibration issues, etc... What does it cost? I'm supprised there isn't a compatible bearing. Does anyone know the diameter of the bearing journal of the drive shaft at the carrier bearing? If there's something available it wouldn't have to bolt up to the car. That can be adapted.

Hi everyone, It's been a long time since I posted. I have been hearing a clunk that has been getting worse over time. The other day i got under the car and shook down the drive line to find the rubber around the support bearing has been mostly chewed up. I searched high and low for a proper part number or instructions for replacement for this specific vehicle, but with no luck. Does anyone have any direction on replacing this bearing on our cars? Does anyone have better searching capabilities than me for a quality part? Here's a video I took when I noticed it: This GL has a 4" lift and an EJ swap. I will be making a better bracket to drop the bearing mount when I pull the drive shaft.

For now I'm just running a diode pointed toward the VSS reed switch. This seems to be working well. I don't really need the speed conversion to the ECU. I'm just curious, what advantage should having it sense the real speed be for you? From my testing, the computer just needs to know it's if the vehicle is moving or stopped to change rpm controlled by the computer. This supposedly reduces clutch wear when moving and drops the idle down to save gas when stopped.

Here we are, almost 2 years later. I've solved a few problems and am ready for another phase. Here's the solved list: 1. Nicked wire, as stated in last post 2. Mass Air Flow sensor went bad. A cheap new one fixed that. 3. Simple diodes (1n4007) with the annode facing the VSS reed switch in the cluster made the cruise control work and the 1999 ECU get the proper ground signal from the VSS. 4. Resistor network to fake Fuel temp, pressure and vent solenoid circuits. This results in NO check engine light (CEL) Moving forward I'd like to do the following: 1. Fabricate universal transmission mounts to get rid of bounce and play in the drive line 2. Struts and maybe swap original springs back in for softer ride - any recommendation on parts? 3. GPS/Nav/Diagnostics system - android tablet type to OBDII, speed readout 4. Cut, weld/box-in front strut top mount points for more camber adjustment I hope everyone is getting along well and life is treating you fairly. Keep on modding!

Hella FF series are so sweet. I have them on another car and they're very effective.

It has been a long time since I got on here. I was having major issues with the car dying and could not figure it out. Today I pulled the HVAC airbox out and found the offender. One of the wires in the harness bundle going to the ECU had a nick in it from a sharp piece of metal under the dash. It would ground out in certain circumstances and kill the engine. These circumstances tended to be when driving up hill, on rough road in moderate to high ambient air temps. This wire was the Brown/White wire going to the Throttle Position Sensor. When it grounded out, it would not throw any codes. IT's FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pressure is less in that scenario. I then put compressed air (about 90psi) on the return line. It builds pressure and is completely pinched or plugged. Any ideas on how to resolve that?

Signals look good form MAF. It's clean, too. I just yanked the fuel pump and ran it in the engine bay with a little 1 gallon fuel can. The fuel pressure stayed way more consistent and under 40psi. I think two things are happening: 1. The Walbro pump is a little too much pump for the rail regulator. 2. The hard fuel return line has too much restriction. 2.5. There may be some strange pressure/injector problems resulting from the over-pressure on the rail. How do I regulate the rail pressure down to 30-35 psi on this engine? Thanks

What about using a puller and pulling them through towards the front?

Thanks, Fairtax4me. Can you be more specific about the "cone type idle valve" or it's variants? Thanks for the numbers and behavior description on fuel flow.

Hi guys, I have a healthy 1999 Impreza EJ22 with about 180,000 miles running in my 1987 GL with a good aftermarket fuel pump. It's pumping a consistent 38 to 45 psi. My questions is: When the vac line to the fuel regulator on the fuel rails is disconnected, is it still supposed to flow fuel back to the tank? I have a steady stream and pressure with it connected. When I disconnect it, the stream reduces very slightly but is still strong and the pressure rises a few psi. I'm trying to diagnose if it's not regulating properly - also temperature dependent... I'm having stalling issues when the car is hot and it doesn't throw any codes. Thanks, SK

Cool, will do. Thanks for the advice.

I think I get what you mean from your English. The thought of making my own bushings has crossed my mind. I'd like to do this more substantially, due to the condition of the car. It's a great vehicle. Any other advice?

It's been a long time since I've posted. Ahhh, this feels good. Anyways, my diff support bushings are toast. I'm looking into options to replace them. Does anyone have any advice on specific products or procedures to do the job? If I have to drop the differential, I'd like to do the diff mount bushings too, pending time and money. Here is what I think can be installed; please correct me if I'm wrong: Support bushings (ones on the outrigger near the outside edge of the vehicle): Whiteline W91379 and for the diff mount bushings (ones at the rear of the diff): Whiteline W91380 Do these look like the correct parts? Thanks for verifying. Here is a vid of a similar procedure that I have found. This guy pulled the entire support bracket out to do the job. Is this how you guys have done it or is there an easier way? Thanks, SK

Thank you. I'll check it out. I got the new battery cables in as well as a new main power cable and engine ground. Testing is still commencing.

The MAF is more round and the plug and hump is on the side, not the square one on the top.

The field coil (exciter, note the spelling) is powered through the battery light indicator bulb on the dash in most Subarus. This is a 100 ohm load, typically. With the key on and a good battery, the disconnected exciter wire from the alternator should read near battery voltage. When connected it should drop a bit. You could jump the exciter terminal on the alternator to the positive side of the battery (MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHICH TERMINAL TO CONNECT TO!) and test the output. if that works, then trace the bad wire until a fault is found. I've been haunted by a similar problem as the OP and am going to try new battery cables on my 1999 phase II EJ out of an impreza outback sport. It's swapped into a 1987 GL, so I have been reluctant to have anyone else look at it, as I know it best. Good luck on yours!

I'll double check. I believe it's a phase II EJ22 from an outback sport. I'll post back when I can check on the car. There seem to be very similar symptoms to what is described here.

So what was the final verdict on this (3.7 years later)? I have a 1999 engine that has been doing the same thing for two years and it's, ironically, driving me crazy.

I know this is an old thread, but I have a few questions: -How did the impreza drive shaft mate up to the dual range transmission? Did you have to custom that up? Lengths seem like an issue there. -What did you figure out for a dual range shifting setup? I know there are many ways, but I'm curious about your solution - inside the cabin and in the transmission tunnel. -How did you interface the impreza speed sensor (if it is electronic, not cable) to the dual range trans? Thanks for your response and patronage to the community, if you're still online here.