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kanurys

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Everything posted by kanurys

  1. Good call. I've seen that on some raspy sounding hondas. I'm going for a nice full light fill.
  2. Thanks guys. With turn signals, I'm not as concerned with saving power, but the higher power using brake lights and marker lights would be a good idea. I'll look into a flasher for leds anyways.
  3. right on. What about wiring? Are resistors built into these bulbs or do I need to add one in series with each bulb? And, should I get red leds to put in my red lens tail lamps or white leds?
  4. Those sites are good links. I think I'd be in the hole about $60-80 for just brake lights. What color would you guys go with? Cool white or warm white? other?
  5. you could build a pwm circuit to dim them. Just search around online. Thanks for the responses. I'd like to use them for the tail/brake corner lights and the trunk mounted brake light in my 87 GL. I have a voltage meter in the dash and with my headlights on, radiator fan and cabin fan running the voltage drops below 12v when I step on the brake. I'll also be doing the maxima alternator mod, but LED conversions are also really cool . I guess my question really is how bright are specific bulb conversions and will they be adequate to be safe even in sunlight? I've seen really bright LED lights on fancy busses and bmw's, etc... so I'm sure they're out there. What is available to us that would just insert where the bulb used to be?
  6. Has anyone replaced their brake lights with LED lights like ones on ebay? Are they as bright as the conventional light bulbs? What has your experience been?
  7. Just got back from a 3000 mile trip. The new suspension drove great. I came back with an extra 400 lbs of stuff in the back and the car still handled well and had very little rear sag. The front springs did settle down a tiny bit like I hoped. I am very pleased with the improvement in handling and load capacity. When I weighed it at a truck stop with my girlfriend, me, 3/4 tank of gas and all the stuff in the back it was exactly 4000 lbs (about 1000 lbs over curb weight). Its posture still looked like an empty, totally stock outback. Well, maybe a little higher, but it didn't sag to bad. Pedders should have engineered the rear springs to sit the car .5" to 1" higher.
  8. The 1998 Legacy Outback got new pedders hd lift springs and 1/2" hdpe rear spacers. This made 2" at each corner. Also kyb gr2's and all new related components. It rides like it SHOULD have from the factory. Also I had a cheapo new outer tie rod end develop 1/16th inch of play within the first 2000 miles. Warrantied that thing and have a moog in the mail. The group N control arm bushings feel solid with the 30mm spacers to make them fit the outback. With my petite girlfriend, me, 3/4 tank of gas, a few hundred pounds of audio gear and trip stuff weighed in at exactly 4000 lbs at a truck weigh station. It still handled better than stock and empty.
  9. We're on the way to OR. We'll be driving through moab tomorrow night. If you see a lifted blue 1998 legacy outback, that's me.

  10. I used to get custom hydraulic hoses made at John Deer or CAT. They both have a huge inventory of unions and hose to make to custom lengths. If you bring them the hill holder they can measure the flange angle of the flare and make the hoses for you. This can be done for power steering, too. Common angles are 45 degrees and 60 degrees. You should see the big end crimping machine they use. Pretty cool stuff.
  11. That thing looks pimp! I might do something like that in place of the stock Weber filter. How does it flow?
  12. Mine is more of an oil/condensate separator. It's really just a prego jar in-line before the PCV valve. I usually capture about 2 oz of oil per oil change. Most of what is in there is water which evaporates out of the oil. It's caused by the same effect which makes water condense in an air compressor. As it cools water turns back into liquid...
  13. I heard that, too. Tom and Ray just laughed at him. I'm about to hook up a 16ft trailer to my 1998 outback to haul furniture on our short move. It should be fine with the HD springs in back. (I hope) Oh yeah, I pulled a built 60's camero up a hill with my lifted 87 GL. That was kind of pushing it.
  14. I wheeled the 87 GL some more. Here is a cell phone vid near Silverton, CO. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdEg6vhk1_Q&feature=player_embedded Also, I know I posted a preliminary update before, but I finally got the 2" spring lift into the 1998 Legacy Outback. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=124613
  15. The alignment went very smoothly - no issues with stock ajustability. It drives really balanced on bumpy or off-camber sections. I still have to take pictures and extraneous measurements. If I ever have to take out the rear shocks I will add another half inch spacer.
  16. I haven't measured yet, but they definitely have a reasonable amount of compression. I'll remeasure in a day or two, after the alignment and driving it a while and then post the data. Those fronts sure are springy.
  17. 1998 Legacy Outback: I got it all on there. Not much modification involved, just some general grunting and swearing. Here's the list of parts: -Pedders heavy duty springs, front and back -KYB GR-2's/Excel G's (same thing), front and back -Group N control arm bushings -fabricated 3cm spacers so the Group N bushings would fit the Outback body, 1.5" OD, .25" wall super duper hard steel pipe -new ball joints -new tie-rods and ends -new OEM rack boots -new strut mounts -new spring seat isolators (except rear uppers, I used the old ones) -fabricated HDPE 1/2" rear strut spacers The springs took 3.5 months to arrive. Via phone they promised me 2 false dates so I finally demanded they overnight them to me at their expense. Pedders USA obliged. My initial measurements were as follows, with stock components: ground to edge of FRONT wheel well: 28.5" ground to edge of REAR wheel well: 27.75" ground to rear differential: 8.5" In order as listed above: The front springs were a squeeze and are a lot more stiff than the stock springs. Even with the new KYB GR2's it's a tad bouncy. The Pedders springs are thicker and have about 1.5 more coils than the Subaru springs. Here are some pictures for comparison: They (fronts) yeilded 2.25" of lift, and have yet to settle more (I hope). EDIT: insert front height picture here After some research I had a hunch that the rear springs would not lift the vehicle as much as the fronts. I would venture to say they would be a great modification by them selves on a stock vehicle. Because of this, I fabricated 1/2" spacers from HDPE plastic. It was fairly simple with a drill and jigsaw. I saw a gain of 2.25" in back, as well, which included the spacers. I thought that was interesting. The coils are very similar; the Pedders spring retaining the same number of turns as the stock spring, but the spacing at the end of the stock one is irregular. Whereas, the pedders spring is symmetrical. It still fit like a glove. Also, I knocked out the strut mount studs and inserted 1/2" longer bolts, as seen in the pics. Out with the old, in with the new: EDIT: Insert rear height picture here Thanks for reading. Next, I'll post pics of the car and it's posture. Let me know what you think. SK
  18. 1987 GL: -took it wheeling to 12000 ft -got another radiator fan so it stays cool while going slow up steep grades 1998 Legacy Outback: -installed group N control arm bushings and fabricated 30mm spacers to fit the outback -installed new tie-rods and ends, OEM rack boots -installed new ball joints -installed a new right front axle -got all my Pedders HD lift springs, KYB struts, mounts, etc... (front and back) -ebayed 2 sheets of 1/2" HDPE to cut spacers (http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/31520-diy-strut-spacer-lift-templates.html) What do you guys think? Should I put just 1/2" in back and leave the front alone or should I go through the trouble of 1/2" in front and stack two 1/2" spacers in back? I'm leaning towards just one 1/2" spacer in back and call it good. This is mostly a highway/car-camping rig. The 87 GL is the off-roader.
  19. -Pulled a restored 60's camero back to its home with my 87 GL wagon. -Retuned the weber for summer. -got my legacy outback Pedders lift/hd springs in the mail
  20. Corvallis and Portland, but I know Eastern Oregon quite well.
  21. At first I was trying to decipher what you were trying to say. Then I realized two things: 1. You're from Oregon. 2. I've been in Colorado too long and forgot how oregonians think. I grew up in OR, back when the schools were actually really great. If you need a picture of the old HG's I pulled out of my EA82 I can dig them out. Just let me know.
  22. I think the proper term for the valve with the blue port is the anti-after-burn valve. The ASVs should connect to metal pipes which run to the exhaust area on the heads, somewhere near where the exhaust manifold bolts to each head. They mount just to the rear of the heads, either on brackets that hang off the top rear of the head or some other bolt point. The charcoal canister has several lines. One from the carburetor to capture fuel vapors, one from a vacuum switch with other lines involved to actuate/open the canister which vents through another line back to the intake or manifold. There is another line from the fuel tank vent line, usually.
  23. I thought the item in the picture with the blue hose fitting is an air injection valve actuated by manifold vacuum. It connects to somewhere near the EGR or puts air into the intake in certain situations. Most of them have a check ball that is rusted in place and they no longer work. Also, they are very expensive new. Many people remove them and suffer no negative effects. Just plug up the really big hose on the bottom. As far as the air suck valves (ASV's), there are several threads indicating that you can unbolt the metal pipe going into them and insert a $0.25 coin and reinstall. Correct me if I'm wrong but credit for that goes to GD. This is one option. I removed the entire system and plugged the heads which accomplishes the same thing but is much more clean looking and you have to make your own block off plates. I'm not sure, but it seems like a lot of this stuff was for a good emissions cause but after aging this long, now has a negative effect. If everything is working correctly and you have good ignition, timing, etc, then the only emissions thing to help you pass should be an EGR valve and a catalytic converter. The charcoal canister is another project when it comes to installing/removing, with it's own issues to deal with.
  24. Suparu, you live in Moab? I live in Durango. Let me know if you come through town.

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