kanurys

Excellent info. I will use this in the future along with the 90's Toyota 4runner fronts for the rear of the GL. Thanks. I took a half hour drive, after work, up to 9000 feet and watched the sunset. The road is rough gravel. Now my GL is muddy (AGAIN). This was really a test for my new fuse block for the radiator fans. The EA82 burns oil after long descents when you step on it. Does anybody else have this problem? The valve seals are new so it's probably the rings, even though compression is good. Oh well. EJ here we come. Man, I love where I live.

87 GL wagon: -got it muddy again -hooked up fuel return line and vent line - no more gas smell in cabin -developed another coolant leak at the thermostat, where I used a paper gasket instead of OEM on the rebuild 98 Legacy Outback: -fixed sinking rear view mirror by removing the broken plastic shim and replacing it with rubber from a bike inner-tube. -still waiting for pedders HD springs 2004 Impreza Outback Sport: -Dayco timing kit (pulleys, tensioner, belt) -acc belts -a/c belt idler -OEM water pump/thermostat/radiator flushed -OEM radiator hoses/bypass hose -resealed oil pump/o-ring -OEM cam and crank seals -OEM pcv valve -OEM oil filter, 5w30 full synth Valvoline -OEM oil pressure relief spring -adjusted valves - it runs so smooth and has noticeably more power now

I replaced the O2 sensors on my 98 Legacy Outback which upped the mpg a bit and no more CEL. Also, I took the 87 GL four wheeling and went hiking. At least put the lift to good use. It has a little hole right before the muffler and makes a great raspy sound when you step on it. I think I'll keep it that way.

Thanks for the contribution. Is that the same as the oem sensor from Subaru for the ej253?

Here's my follow-up post. I replaced the sensors with the correct part, but I purchased bosch direct fit sensors on amazon (the cheapest I could find) for about $40 each instead of over $100 each from Subaru. Here's what the info reads on the side of the OLD sensors for my 1998 Legacy Outback: Upstream sensor: Bosch 13702 http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=0+258+003+702#sclient=psy&hl=en&tbm=shop&source=hp&q=13702+bosch&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=f9f6494e40f8c42f&biw=1201&bih=702 LSH 24 BOSCH 861 16 00 0 258 003 702 12V Downstream sensor: Bosch 13445 http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=0+258+003+702#sclient=psy&hl=en&tbm=shop&source=hp&q=13445+bosch&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=f9f6494e40f8c42f&biw=1201&bih=702 LSH 24 BOSCH 861 07 20 0 258 003 445 12V CEL went away and it's getting better mpg. It was much easier to remove them with the correct O2 sensor socket, $10 at the cheapo parts store. I found the crow's foot type to work better than the deep socket type because of the tight quarters down there. (insert that's-what-she-said comment here)

10-4. Knocking on wood. On the topic at hand and to compliment this thread, would someone list which engines the adjustment applies to?

Done. That was easy! I did it with the old belt on. That way I could easily control the rotation of the cams. Thanks for your advice guys. Just for comparison, how does one go about adjusting the bucket/shim style like on my 1998 legacy outback dohc? This thread is currently my favorite.

Dremel?

I installed new o2 sensors in the legacy outback. CEL is now gone. I cleared it with the obd 2 bluetooth adapter and my Android phone. Best investment ever.

Not sure about the fuel spitting out the intake, but maybe a semi-clogged exhaust? Though, it sounds like you covered all the other bases except having a working carburetor.

I got them on rockauto.com. They come two in a box. It takes two (aka 1 box) per side. I also added washers on the forward side as in the pictures. Importantly: these bushings, as well as other raybestos bushings I've ordered from them, are a Subaru branded product. They had the right Subaru number and logo, etc... I also ordered raybestos steering rack bushing and there were Subaru parts in Subaru numbered bags in raybestos boxes.

You guys really need to get out. The development of this brat has been covered in detail. Search on that. It goes without saying that we all love the work that has been done. Oh yeah, I washed the mud off of the GL and fixed the sinking mirror on my outback.

A few questions: What jets are you running? Main1: Main2: Air1: Air2: Idle1: Idle2: At what altitude are you driving? Is your timing advance hooked up correctly and verified working? Also, just to be sure, check the float level adjustment according to the weber specs. Does anyone have those handy? I have no idea where my print out is... I bet you're running a little lean on one of the jets, but clear answers to A1's questions will narrow that down.

Yeah, someone's been doing e-brake turns... Mine glazed when I had to emergency tow my vehicle about a mile with a tow strap when my timing seals failed a few years ago. It grabs, but not reliably on a steep hill. Now its time for a rear break job and I'll be in there anyways so I might as well replace the shoes. Those little suckers are relatively expensive! Do you guys re-use the hardware or get new springs, clips, etc...?

The car has been running well since the last post. I replaced my radius rod bushings and went for a test drive. I added 1/4" of washers on the front side of the body mount. My alignment was perfect after the install and test drive. There is also a noticeable improvement in sudden impacts. There is less clunk and more of the force is transfered to the spings/shocks. Here are some pictures and vids: This compressed down to a tight little donut when complete.

Finally, some good pictures of a parking break setup on a rear disk break car. I've been searching for this stuff and not had much luck. Thanks!

I replaced my radius rod bushings and went for a test drive. I added 1/4" of washers on the front side of the body mount. My alignment was perfect after the install and test drive.

That's what I was thinking, too. I was just hoping some one on here knew what the feature was incase it pertained to some sort of upgrade I and others could easily accomplish with the wiring already installed. Oh and I'm always curious about terminated plugs just laying around.

Hmmm... good ideas, but all of my chassis electrical works great. The car used to have a Hitachi until I webered it, so no computer. This one really has me stumped.

Not sure about that. It was tucked behind the pillar trim piece next to the seatbelt reel. I'd think seat power would run under the seat, not back there where it's near a flex point. None the less, this is a stock interior and the seats are the standard manual adjust type. Any other ideas?

Hey folks, I was tracing my gas lines to check for rust and leaks when I found this plug on the driver's side of my 87 GL. Anyone know what this is for?

yeah, use an OEM thermostat. Nothing less. It's the one on the left, part number behind...

My Subaru system doesn't have the yellow on the battery side. Can you get pictures of the alarm unit under the dash to show us? Maybe remove it or pull it out? I think that would help us figure out what clicker you need and how to program it.

The info you need to get the correct fob and program it is on this page: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code alarm

not sure of the the part number, but that is where my 1998 outback alarm speaker is located. The Subaru-Code alarm unit was ziptied up under the dash almost touching the driver side kickpannel.