kanurys

Sorry to hear they're not in good shape. Do some searching. You can close those cracks with a ball-peen hammer/round punch. I did with mine and they're working great.

cool, will do.

When I do a general search via google for the specific bushing, it always comes up with stuff for a brat or other trim, but not my 87 GL. Is there some sort of difference in the design?

Right on, thanks Miles. I ordered a bunch of raybestos bushings for my steering rack and radius rods from rockauto. The boxes said raybestos on them but it was a subaru branded part inside with subaru numbers... FYI.

Hi guys, I want to replace the bushings on my control arms on my 1987 GL wagon. I have the ones for the radius rods ready to go, but I can't really see the pressed in bushings to verify what I need. Can someone post a link or a Subaru part number for these? Thanks

Have you tried this? How much did it help? I was told this wasn't worth the modification on another thread.

That's great that you got a big axle. I had just the opposite experience. My oem axle was the thick one and the empi from autozone was the smaller one with the butted ends. I've read a lot on axles and have seen people get a random assortment of shaft/cup setups on remans. I've also used EWI's (the blue ones) with good results.

right on! thanks.

This is a great thread, guys. Thanks. I'm about to do a timing job and valve cover/spark plug hole re-seal on a 2004 impreza outback sport. One valve is a little loud and I think it's time to do the valve adjustment. I'm planning on doing it with the timing belt off, engine in car at TDC. Someone stop me if this isn't a good idea. I'll check for piston/valve clearance before fully rotating any cams individually.

sorry, man. The group buy closed last October. I think there has even been another since then. Scott is continuously selling them on his website http://www.sjrlift.com and makes a great product. You probably already know that since you're looking to purchase.

Miles - I'd say it's coincidental, too. Fuel cap is on, and new, but the vent line is uncapped, so the tank is breathing, anyways. I had the same thought that a siphon occurred to pull the gas out while the vent was near the same level as the tank. My fuel gauge was around 1/8 when I parked it and it read just above E when I found it in the morning. I still think that I should hook up the return line and the vent to the proper spots on the Weber and watch for more problems. I'll also do a check for rust, etc... You say the lines run inside the cabin under plastic retainers? I assume this is on the drivers side.

I usually park my 87 Weber'd GL with the nose uphill on my sort of steep driveway. Last night I backed in and parked with the nose down. It poured rain all night (kind of rare here in Durango) and when I encountered it this morning there was a trail of gas down the driveway through the water. Inside, the driver's foot well was soaked with gas and water. I popped the hood and checked out the vent line and return line. I couldn't tell if it was condensate or a dropp of gas on one of them but the area looked like it had gas on it that had evaporated. This gas smell is a reoccurring problem, but I haven't seen signs of it in a few months until now. I could never figure out what it was. The rear vapor canister is fine. I only have the supply fuel line running to the Weber, no other lines. Maybe I'll try to hook up the return and vent to the Weber and see if this problem goes away. Any ideas?

At least it's almost summer.

so how's the wagon going?

Also, the EGR actually helps extend engine life and keeps emissions down. I'd reinstall it and hook it up to the plugged port on the carb next to the timing advance (it's for EGR). If you do this I'd also hook up the thermo-vacuum switch which screws into the intake next to the thermostat. This switch bleeds air into the egr control vacuums and timing advance, disabling them until the engine is warmed up. I did a little writeup in the same thread the above post is from about that. Oh, it also helps fuel economy when cruising.

Here's how I setup my PCV system on the EA82 with a Weber. So far it seems to work GREAT. I even put a catch can between the driver's side head and the T to the pcv valve. It keeps some oily and wet stuff from getting into the intake. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=950800&postcount=35

Nice catch. I didn't mean to come off harshly. We usually get some kids who don't read the post and just comment without any content. This site is great because many of us post valid information with little flaming compared to other forums. The O2 sensors in discussion are both the upstream and downstream of the 96-99 outbacks, but in my case I'm concerned with the 98 legacy outback.

I assume you're asking me to identify what car I have. The answer is stated clearly in the first post. Yes, I thought I'd post the link to a cheap front Bosch O2 sensor since we're discussing O2 sensors here and that seems to be the more important one. What can you contribute?

How does it run? Any improvement in MPG or CEL? The front one is the only one I haven't bought yet. my local Napa sells it for the same as Subaru online - aobut $100. I found this one on amazon for quite a bit less: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-13702-Oxygen-Sensor-Fitment/dp/B000BZEILQ

I just ordered a downstream Denso sensor from Amazon for $54 + 3 shipping. Going OEM for upstream, as listed above. Also got an new OEM knock sensor off of ebay for $42 shipped. Those are some of the better prices I could find.

What model of car did you do this on?

Its $102.44 for OEM front sensor from subarugenuineparts.com

The way it makes sense to me is this: Running an after-market purchased sensor is a crap shoot. It could work fine or it could be the wrong range, etc, for the computer. If you want to be sure of compatibility and trouble free replacement, get the OEM sensor. There goes my scotch money.

Thanks guys. I was on the fence, but no more. I'll put the front O2 sensor on my OEM order list. I think both of you gave the most definitive answer I've read on the subject and even included pro-arguments. Not on my OEM list: Pedders HD lift springs and GR2's. (already in the mail) I've installed theimportexpers timing kits on my other scoobs with good results, too.

Do you guys know which brand and model of front and rear O2 sensor is the same as the Subaru sensors from the dealer? any pictures with stamped logos/numbers or anyone want to check? I've searched a ton for this info, but all I can find is people doing the usual talk of "just get it at the dealer". I'm interested in saving money, here. This is for my 1998 Legacy Outback. edit: I did find this link to bolster discussion: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=717532