kanurys

I replaced the 130 secondary main jet on my weber with a 140. Man, it's amazing how smooth the rpm runs through the throttle travel, now. I can't remember my exact jetting, but up here at 6512 ft I have something like: Main 1: 130 Air 1: 180 Main 2: 140 Air 2: 200 Idle jets are 1 step bigger from ea82 sea level recommendation. I know it's kind of a weird setup, but I drive to very high altitudes (9000-12000 ft) and when I'm going slow on the gravel roads, I mostly use the first barrel of the carb. When I'm in town and lower altitudes I stomp on it more with traffic and what not and need more enrichment. Mileage isn't superb, but the 87 GL's rolling on 29's (20mpg in town, 27 up high). What else...? Oh, I took apart my broken 1998 outback mirror. Any body have one with good motors/housing to send me? PM please. The way they're actuated is interesting. What else...? Right, my GPS project is shipped and on it's way (thanks SPARKFUN.com). I'm going to replace my dash clock with a 20x4 LCD with GPS location, time, altitude, etc. There's a gadget thread with the plan somewhere on the forum.

I just put a canning jar with the two hoses spliced with the lid in. It's clear so I can see what is in it. Usually I catch condensed water and some minor oil sludge over a few weeks. I'm sure it's helping somehow and I do check it often. The cool part is it doesn't require much maintenance aside from unscrewing and dumping it out.

hahaha. niiice. Are you talking about the car, or the dummy in the car? It's non-smoking all around.

Cool ^. Show us pictures. I bought some of the GPS and circuit board parts and started writing the c++ code for the unit I'm going to replace the clock with in my lifted GL. http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardUno

Cool, thanks Yo. I was thinking that the EGR activates when the engine isn't in a sensitive state, off of the Weber. This is also a good time to introduce the vapors stored in the charcoal canister. So far, plugging the vent port on the carb (I know, not a great long term idea) has stopped the fuel smell.

Hmmm. Those ultrasonic parts cleaners should only use what is recommended for what material they're made out of. Most caustics will eat aluminum and stainless away quickly. These machines work best with an emulsion fluid which suspends debris well and is still really not pretty to smell or for the environment. I use citrus based cleaners, elbow grease and a little bit of crazy.

I also am interested. If it were up to me, I'd rebuild the engine myself but I understand that many people don't have that luxury. I bought an axle from the gentleman who ccr recommended. MWE is the company and it has been solid, without problems on my EJ car. Anyways, I believe that the way a company handles it's problems is just as important as the quality of it's product. I give that in my own service to customers in my industry and it has proved fruitful.

From what I can tell, fuel vapor is not coming from the rear canister. I think it's accumulating from the weber vapor vent and the problem is exacerbated by the cold temps. This is all the more reason to put the charcoal canister back in. I think I'll actuate it off of the EGR vac line. Yo'j, how do you actuate yours?

Mine are just sticking out of the firewall uncapped. I was toying with the idea of reinstalling the charcoal canister with the weber and using the vent line from the tank, again. Also I have a fuel fitting with a 1/8" barb for the return line to install that, too Do you guys know wich one is the fuel return hard line and the vent hard line next to the brake booster? I can't remember.

If the oil is too thick it just won't crank over - would sound like a dying battery. I run 10w30 and my ea82 fires up fine at -10 degreese F in the morning. Not even any lifter tick. It sounds like there was something else wrong or not properly adjusted in the valve train. I just replaced all the seals and nothing is leaking. It worries me a little bit to reach high oil pressures when it's thick, but no problems so far. Idealy you should put a heater on the oil pan over night, for true engine health. Best, SK

I'm having a similar problem. The interior smells of gasoline weather it has been sitting or while driving. It started abruptly a week ago and is continuous. We've been having sub-zero temps. Maybe that cracked that rear vapor canister or something else plastic. My EA82 is weber-ed and is stripped of all the charcoal canister stuff and what not just like dwuollet. There are also no visible signs of fuel leaks on any of the rubber fuel hoses. I'll check under the back seat and the canister in the rear of the car... On another note, when I pulled it into my warm garage and it sat for a while, the smell had mostly gone away. I'm thinking it has something to do with the extreme outside temps. Should the fuel return lines and the return vent line by the brake booster be capped off? I figure cap the fuel return, but let the vent be open to breath. What do you guys think?

Yes, use a DPDT relay and sire the parking lights through the always-on terminal. Then switch the relay with the power going to the signal light so that when the blinker is on it cuts out the parking light and visa versa.

This is a long shot, but perhaps the exhaust is partially clogged (at the cat?). It gets worse when hot and expanded and startes pushing exhaust back through the reed valves also causing the reed valve burning. This is totally speculation - but maybe check the exhaust flow when warmed up. Also see what is coming out of the reed valves (air suck valves) at their intake at the air cleaner (or what ever it is since you have a weber).

That's exactly what I was thinking/suggesting. I guess it could be any of the heavy gauge cable terminals from the battery or starter or the ignition switch or the starter relay/solenoid. There is really only one other place to look and that is the fuse circuit, but that rarely fails. Maybe throw another fuse in there for sh1ts and giggles. Hot wiring it should get closer to isolating the problem...

I'd work down the line of ignition stuff and start ruling out switch, then hot wire the relay for the starter because you're messing with less power. Then if it's the same do the jumper cable thing. It kind of sounds like a failing starter relay or starter (as it heats up it fails, then cools down quickly and does it all over again).

I agree - definitely helicoil it. The original size helicoil is actually stronger than the old hole (done properly). I've had the best luck with a reverse drill bit, then helicoil kit and drill bit recommended on the kit packaging. Good luck.

Even better, don't crank it to test the ignition switch. Just unplug the harness under the dash and hook up a multi meter. Then test all key positions for continuity. Jiggle the key in each position to try to get it to fail. If it passes, then do the check mentioned above. Just work your way through the system starting with the switch. Sometimes the multimeter will read a good connection, but when you pass large amounts of current through the circuit, a bad connection can just act like a resistor and not allow proper voltage/current to pass. This is why both tests described above together will be definitive. You can do the same thing with the relay (starter relay), or swap in another.

yeah.

If you keep the D/R don't forget the rear LSD swap.

But if you were to pull the engine, you'd need to disconnect: What grossgary said about the a/c bracket - move aside but don't disconnect a/c hoses 4 bolts on tranny (obviously) hill stopper pitch stopper mounts line from coil to dist. ground cable in front of battery to engine fuel lines wiring harness for sensors/vac control/electrical distributor... remove radiator and all fans including mechanical vac line to hvac and cruise spare tire support bar throttle cable power steering lines afterburner valve to egr valve line purge canister brake booster line heater hoses going to firewall I know I'm forgetting something, but that's most of it.

Ya, just keep it slow for this tank of gas. I have a naturally aspirated ea82 with decked heads to raise the compression. Even it pings like a bastard without premium fuel. A little pinging won't hurt anybody's feelings or the engine, as long as it's not long term. Maybe it's because I have the timing advanced so far, but I like low end torque for nerding around in the forest.

I'm working on a digital readout device of selectable data to replace the clock in my GL. One feature to think about on my list is sensors to detect inclination. First on the list is to get the GPS receiver working so I can see all of that data, then external temp, then maybe inclination.

I changed the oil and filter (10w30 Valvoline synth and scoob filter) on the 87 GL. It really likes the slippery stuff. Also, the legacy outback has a new driver's side heated power mirror on it's way in the mail, so I took the door apart and popped off the broken one preemptively. Now to fix this dang computer.

It was about 0 deg. F last night and my crappy windshield wiper was so brittle that it snapped off of the arm when I was scraping my window.

Fixed the ghetto cruiser's rear defrost circuit (switch and relay are good, ground is good, bad spade connector). I think it snowed a foot today - still snowing. I love my lifted wagon...