kanurys

Driver's side mirror was dangling by wires this morning. Grrrr. Plows...

I put a new thin radiator fan and radiator temp switch in my GL. I went to get into my legacy outback at 5:45am and the driver's side mirror was dangling by a few wires. The po po said there were 5 others in the neighborhood. "Do you think it was kid or a plow?" he asked. I said that judging by the 6 inches of fresh snow on the ground I'm going with plow.

Passenger side roof trip fell off.

damit. so jealous. There is an almost perfect 86 XT for sale a few blocks from my house. I've been stairing at it's rear diff every time I go by. I just drove up into the mountains for a hike with my lady friend. there is about a foot of snow (speaking of snow wagons). The totally open diff performed great. I can't wait to find an LSD for it!

I ball-peened my ps reservoir, too. Out here in CO it's 10 deg F in the night and 60 in the day, so the choke definitely does a good job. In the morning it still needs to start twice if it's been that cold. In the summer it revs right up without any gas pedal (after the first push to set the choke up). I guess you could do it either way. I just chose to use a spacer and modify the ps stuff... Anyways, if one is to need clearance and wants to block off their carb coolant passage in the manifold, then one could kill two birds with one stone and make a tall spacer/block off plate. I like the idea of keeping the coolant flowing openly throughout the manifold area since it helps keep fuel vaporized on it's way to the combustion chamber. Maybe that's why these engines don't flood easily - BUT they have that dang coolant leaking into the intake problem... ON SUBJECT, I found that the OEM gaskets were thicker (as discussed all over this forum) and they covered that 1/16" displacement between the plates a little better than the crappy aftermarket or red-line gaskets.

True, more gaskets suck, but most of the weber-ed ea82's with power steering have to put the plastic spacer plate from the old carb in there, anyways, to give rise to clear the PS. I guess you could make a really thick spacer to replace it and double as a block off. Like 1/2" material.

I had this problem on my EA82 Weberized 1987. I used OEM gaskets and pushed the plates/gaskets around until they overlapped as much as possible. It's been fine ever since. Also, you could just make a block-off plate out of aluminium and put it at the very bottom of the stack with an extra OEM intake gasket. That would solve the coolant/intake problem and would be a clean solution, still allowing coolant to circulate through the manifold as it was designed.

Normally, these don't go bad until high mileage. Mine was only at 140,000 miles and it was on an overheated engine and was brittle. I picked up an NOK (OEM) online for $7 by searching google shopping. Be cautious when installing this as it can go in very crooked and eventually too deep. Note the brand and depth of the old seal and report back here.

That's great to hear. Are you going to re-drill your flywheel or have someone else do it? SJR? My GF's 2004 SOHC impreza engine is very torque-y and tons of fun. Winter up here in Durango is a few months and is usually accompanied by tons of snow. I already tried the lifted 87 GL in about 6" of pow pow with the 29's. That was a blast. Keep us updated on your progress, please. Also, regarding your custom center console plate, I think I'm going to make something like that and use the old boot. Yours is way slick.

For a turbo it's a good idea. You can get one of those nice PERRINs or make your own, but it won't work quite as well. I think board member CMILLER has the Perrin and loves it. I put my own in on a N/A EA82 with totally clean intake, so I have a point of reference on how dirty it gets over time. So far I've caught a little bit of nasty soup. Maybe you could do my ghetto mod and use a jar to see if it makes a difference before you buy a nice one? That was my plan. Then let us know how much and at what rate your turbo engine collects oil in the PCV system? SK

Wow, nice catch can. I made a home made version with a prego jar. It's clear so I can see what gets caught in it. Yes - you put it between the driver's side valve cover and the pcv. Make sure your system has T fitting and a smaller tube between the catch can and pcv to break the vaccume. This smaller tube should go to clean atmospheric pressure (air cleaner or standalone filter). I have caught a tiny bit of oil, running normally. Mostly condensation water is what I catch. Up here in CO it's dry and we have big temp differences between night and day, so closed spaces catch a lot of condensation. The only time I got a few ounces of oil in it is when I was parked on a steep hill with the driver's side pointed down hill, it was about 10 degrees F on a cold start and about 2000 RPM (really thick oil). I'm glad I had the can in there then. p.s. Nice engine in the picture, above I had fun rebuilding it. Somewhere in there I posted a picture of my can and there is some discussion of PCV setup correctly. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114817&highlight=1987+build+thread

This does have plastic tanks. I figured I'd make a small sheet metal bracket that slips onto the switch like a washer but has a tab protruding to connect a spade terminal to. Since I'm running a relay through this instead of the entire current of the fan, it should be fine. On another note, do you guys put a resistor in-line with the relay? I've heard an argument both ways...

Thanks guys. I was thinking of grounding the radiator if I used it. This way I'll save a little dough. Is the temp rating similar for the EA81 vs. EA82 style switch?

I ordered a two spade terminal radiator fan temp switch from rockauto. They sent me a single pin switch. I'm running an after-market fan and spdt relay. I understand how the two node switch works. How does the single pin switch work (how does it ground)? Is there a way I can use this one instead of the two spade one? Rock auto already issued me a credit for the shipped temp switch and let me keep it. 1987 GL.

Thanks Yo'J. It looks like I did it right. Just replaced an axle. It was not installed correctly by the PO. Here is a link to the thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117925 On another note, I installed the PCV catch jar. It works great. I get more condensation in it than oil, but it definitely keeps some oily gunk out of the intake. Forgive the tacky prego jar. I plan on making a nicer mount and getting longer hoses in the future. I have to take more pics with the lift, but here are a few teasers.

Well I tore some things up. Turns out (no pun intended) it definitely wasn't aligned correctly. Pics: I used a depth guage to cut just the right depth, using the new axle as a reference. Somewhere on here a member was analyzing the differences in axles. This re-man looks smaller in diameter than the previous one... Thanks for your help, again, everyone.

aaaand we're on to the cutoff wheel... update with a pic of the old axle after the break.

I was kind of surprised at this one. I got it to budge with a NEW 3/16" punch and 3lbs sledge, but it is still hanging up on the way out. This is after a little splitting of the actual pin on the protruding end. Waiting for cutoff wheel as a last resort. I know this subject is like tires. It has been beat into the ground on this forum:horse:, but I thought I'd give the new thread a shot... thanks.

Maybe that's the case... but it sure looks off. It's not an original axle, so it might be a re-man and the hole is not drilled quite right... none the less this thing is a bastard(can we say that on here? ).

Thanks guys. I appreciate your support. I've already tried the different sized punches, so I guess it's on to the grinder(interesting suggestion Mark).

I was looking at the Treadwrights, as well, to put on my AA rims. Right now I'm running 235/75/15 Firestone AT's on old re-drilled Montero rims. I had to do some trimming and inside-fender-well pounding with those, but they will fit. I can't wait to find an EJ...

My driver's side front axle has given up the ghost. I went to drive the pin out, and it is stuck. I thought, well, I've dealt with this sort of thing before... But my usual tricks aren't working because of the following. Upon further inspection I can see the diff stub on the non-chamfered side and the roll pin sticks out 1/4" on the other side. I can see that the holes aren't quite lined up, just like when the axle is 180 degrees out of alignment. My usual tools (3/16" punch/little screwdriver/etc...) won't work to remove this thing since the holes aren't aligned. Any ideas to get this spring pin out? For the record, it was the PO that installed it like this.

I just beat my metal, today. I mean, the 29's rub a little on the inside rear of the front wheels. BFH:clap:

I love this stuff. This is really good info. The nitty-gritty. Thank you both. Both of you have successfully squelched my apprehension to swap around differentials. Thanks for the help.

Cool, thanks guys, I'm not timid in the least about attempting the swap. I just want to gain a better understanding of what cars can be swapped. I know XT's and RX's and late 80's GL-10's etc, but I didn't know it was the same diff chunk in the early legacys as stated earlier in this thread. I thought those were completely open diffs, as well, so didn't pay much attention to them. Thanks