kanurys

since we're pulling this tread up again, I might as well ask (excuse the newbie-ness to rear diffs): -When you guys say "chunk" are you referring to the diff carrier, itself? -So as I read it, legacy 3.9 lsd's can fit into an ea82 non-lsd diff housing with little modification (grinding) to the housing, but everything else will bolt up? Or are you guys moving the ring and pinion from the ea82 3.9 to the legacy carrier? I though legacys were 4.something. -And what is with the spline count differences between ea82's and legacys? There aren't too many lsd 80's cars out here in the 4 corners area but there are a lot of legacys in the yards.

How's the EJ coming? I have an 87 on a 4" lift with 29's. I'd love to see what you do to fit the EJ25 in the EA82... On another note, what about a franken motor? EJ25 block + EJ22 everything else. There is some stuff written on this, but I was wondering how it measured/fit in the EA82 frame, vs others. Can't wait for an update, SK

I wouldn't worry about it. When I rebuilt my EA82 and put rebuilt lifters in, I noticed that the two inner sleeves on both heads were sticking out a little further than the 2 on the ends (just like one of yours). I put it all back together and it has been running smooth. I'd just leave it alone.

I just rebuilt an EA82. I learned the hard way that you should just get OEM Subaru branded gaskets, at least for both manifolds to the block. I also used OEM brand seals on the oil pump shaft and rear crank seal. I got them online real cheap by searching. Also, the Orielly folks screwed up on my clutch kit. They specked me the wrong one, so I kindly returned it and ordered the correct one. I think there is a picture of the part number on my thread or the link to my pics. (not that it is the same spline count as yours...?) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114817 Anyways, good luck and hit us up if you have any questions.

Things I've done since my last post: -Installed 4" SJR lift kit -Re-wired the electric fan to come on via relay and possibly will install another -deleted the pulley driven fan -Got OEM gaskets and fixed the coolant leak at the carb -Made my own PCV oil seperator with a few fittings and a spaghetti sauce jar. So far, I've caught about 3 oz of oil on it's way to my intake and a bunch of condensed water. Pics to come...

I installed my 4" SJR kit and grabbed a front turn signal from the yard. Things are looking good for winter.

I have 5 montero rims. I think I will drill them out soon. 1/2 inch bit, hu? I'll probably bevel the edges with 2 sizes bigger... Let us know what you use.

Thanks man. No worries about the measurement. I was just curious. I think most people hit up the Miata site for size (1st useful google link). I'm installing 29's under the 4", so there will be a little more modification/cutting. I also picked up a set of AA 15's for cheap from a forum guy - It's great when you meet new people and they know your friends (local)! I might put 27's on those for a little more torque, but an inch less lift than the 29's. Oh the options... I'll try to remember to post pics here after it's all done... Thanks for the pics of the shift linkage, etc...

Mark, That thing looks great! That gives me an idea of how mine will look when I'm done. I painted my kit with orange rustoleum. Otherwise, I'll be doing the same thing. The rafter trick is cool. There is a nice beam right over where I will be installing it... I'll take some pictures, too, and put them in my build thread. I also dig the fender flairs. By the way, what size tires are those? How much clearance do you have under the rear diff? Thanks

So right now Operation PandaWagon is relegated to Operation Sad PandaWagon? Also, I made an oil separator/catch can out of a prego jar (prototype) and installed it between my driver's side pcv vent and the pcv valve. No oil caught yet, which probably means I've been driving like a nice boy....

That's probably what I'll end up doing, too. But I'll also measure to see how close my calcs are - just for fun.

Right on. Do you have a year range? My guess is that it would be all years, but like I said.... guess.

I don't doubt your experience. I think we're talking about two slightly different things. Anyways, you're right that the amount you add to the the shaft is slightly less than 3 inches. I was saying that the total length (your original statement) is longer that 3". Just a simple miscommunication. None the less, the numbers and equation still hold true. I'm just about ready to do mine... just waiting for the mail

also, I got annoyed at all the educated guessing going on and posted this on another thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=959786&postcount=18

[ATTACH]8096[/ATTACH] haha. Sorry to correct you, Scott, but you mean it's longer than the lift (3") at that point, right? (a^2)+(b^2)=(c^2) where c is the linkage length, a is the horizontal measurement and b is the vertical rise. [ATTACH]8095[/ATTACH] so with the 3 inch lift at the engine crossmember the equasion for the length would be: c = [(a^2)+(b^2)+6b+9]^(1/2) anybody have a graphing calculator and tape measure? Make sure a and b are in inches. Or you could just measure, cut and weld... but I like to calculate... (nerd)

Gotchya. Sorry, I didn't notice that in the text, at first. Does anyone know what steering linkage/extension Allied Armament shipped with their lift kits? Was it something they modified or was it pulled from a yard?

If the legacy outback barely works, I wonder if a forester shaft will work better. I think it was Cmiller who told me he got his form a forester for his 4" ea82 lift. Does anyone know what year might work?

Here is the status of the group buy, for those concerned. SJR says that 4 have paid and 1 should have payment on the way. The 4 that are confirmed paid will ship out today.

EA engines run pretty low oil pressure at low rpm. It is sufficient to lube the engine while running the correct viscosity oil at these lower rpms. On a hydraulic lifter engine with sticky/clogged lifters, a lighter oil is going to flow into the lifter passages easier, but it doesn't perform it's other duties as well. Stick with what Subaru specked the engine with.

Agreed. Though, I suppose it depends on how long and far you run your vehicle. I have a huge hill to go up on my commute, so I drive instead of ride my bike to that destination. My car is fully warm about the time I reach the end of my journey. This is coupled with nights around -10 to +10 F in the winter, so synthetic's ability to work well in extremes is beneficial to me. If I had a long commute, I might not reap the benefits of synth, as much. Also, I try to only buy synthetic on sale. Otherwise it's not worth it. But back to weights , I also agree that healthy EA82's like 10w-30 to 15w-40 generally speaking.

I run 10w-30 in my freshly rebuilt ea82. It's creamy smooth and oil pressure is very predictable. New lifters don't mind the thicker stuff. I'll probably switch to 5w-30 or 10w-30 synthetic when the mornings are consistently below freezing on the next oil change. I'm curious, though I know there has been a ton of discussion on this point, what brand of oil we're talking about here? I like Valvoline for my vehicles because it's cheap(er) and still pretty good stuff. Ams in the ghetto cruiser would be overkill.

you saw my shinny bearing. I cleaned up the inner and outer bearing sleaves and kept them for who knows what. Anyways, I have about 45 miles on the rebuilt engine and it seems real happy. I have a little coolant leak at the base of the carb (grrrrr) so I guess I'll attack that guy and it should be all buttoned up. Thanks again for everyone's help. I'll post more when it's lift time.

Not sure. We cut it off last Tuesday, but pm Scott in Bellingham to see if he'll make an exception for you.