kanurys

http://www.sjrlift.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=6&Itemid=100054

Alright, we have 5 for sure and 2 maybe's. Scott, any thoughts about pricing (if we have 7 kits paid for) and maybe a cut off time?

Does anyone want to get in on the SJR group buy? We're doing several kinds of lift kits as described in the thread in the classifieds section. Go there to voice your interest. Today I picked up a battery tray and hold down kit. The old one was hanging on by a rusty thread and an old solid core wire.

There are only a couple of wires. If it even needed extending, it would be an easy job. I'd like to put the radio in the glove box, too. I just bought my push button switch for the starter. Can't wait to fire up my newly rebuild ea82 with that switch for the first time. Isn't the starter switch in the ignition already on a relay? I just had a fun thought: what if you put another switch in the engine compartment for when you're working on it? ahahahahaha.

Right on. That is excellent, Scott. There are at least 3 of us. I know there are more of you out there. Lets get this thing rolling. (no pun intended, initially) Would a MOD be able to change the title to include the things Scott added: EA81 4" lift EA82 2" lift EA82 3" lift EA82 4" lift ? Thanks.

I've been emailing with Scott of SJR about doing another group buy. We're working out details (terms of the discount, etc...) still, but it looks like if we can put an order together that is over $1000 he will go for it. I'd like to be hopeful and see if we can go beyond $1000, but I guess we'll see. Can you give a show of hands for who is ready to purchase a 4" SJR EA82 lift kit? Thanks, Scott, for giving us this opportunity (again).

I cleaned up the routing of everything in the engine bay after I painted the battery corner. Pics are just of the sanding and fresh paint. It's still kind of a jungle in there. I pulled the tank vent line, capped the fuel return line, and stripped the wiring harness down the the factory oil pressure sender wire and the electric choke wire. Tonight I might install a copper oil gauge sender tube:

Interesting. The timing belts have been on for a day and they were a little loose when I checked them again, today. I guess the new belts stretched for their first time, while just sitting, stationary. I re-tensioned and will check back after run in.

I agree with GD's statement, but the way you have this one hooked up in the picture will still suck oil from the heads. The left and the right breathers need to be independent from each other to create cross-flow. The diagram in the FSM is very accurate and is what I based my design on. I outlined it in my engine build, including a weber setup: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114817&page=4

A little engine degreaser goes a long ways. Also an almost complete rebuild makes the degreasing easier. Here's a link to my process: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114817 Oh, and ditch that hitachi for a weber. That will clean a huge mess of vac lines and wires up.

I figured out a few things: When Cold: The thermo vacuum switch bleeds air from the air cleaner into the egr and timing advance nodes of vacuum, effectively reducing the vacuum in those respective lines, keeping egr closed and 0 advance on the ignition timing. At these nodes supplying vac to the egr and distributor, the respective vac lines from thermo vac switch are t-ed in. Another effect of the air bleeding in is it leans out the air/fuel mixture a little while the choke is closed. When Hot: No air can flow in or out of any of the ports on the thermo vac switch and the egr valve sees vac signal when it's supposed to and the disty advance sees vac when it's supposed to. No air is bleeds into the intake or bypasses the throttle plate. How did I do? I always thought it was the other way around, the switch just cut off the vac supply. Instead it nullifies it. Cool. Here's the vac switch all hooked up: Above, you can see where the EGR is T-ed into the valve. Below, underneath everything you can see where the distributor advance is T-ed in to the valve. I got fresh air from the hose that goes from the pcv system to the air cleaner: Thanks for all the advice you guys threw my way. Before: After:

Here's the vac switch all hooked up: Above, you can see where the EGR is T-ed into the valve. Below, underneath everything you can see where the distributor advance is T-ed in to the valve. I got fresh air from the hose that goes from the pcv system to the air cleaner: Thanks for all the advice you guys threw my way.

Nice. Also helpful information. Thanks. I'll post pictures regarding how my routing turned out.

Verify me on this, folks: When Cold: The thermo vacuum switch bleeds air from the air cleaner into the egr and timing advance nodes of vacuum, effectively reducing the vacuum in those respective lines, keeping egr closed and 0 advance on the ignition timing. At these nodes supplying vac to the egr and distributor, the respective vac lines from thermo vac switch are t-ed in. Another effect of the air bleeding in is it leans out the air/fuel mixture a little while the choke is closed. When Hot: No air can flow in or out of any of the ports on the thermo vac switch and the egr valve sees vac signal when it's supposed to and the disty advance sees vac when it's supposed to. No air is bleeds into the intake or bypasses the throttle plate. How did I do? Thanks for the pics, again. I always thought it was the other way around, the switch just cut off the vac supply. Instead it nullifies it. Cool.

Dude, sweet scans. And yes, that is exactly what I needed. My Haynes doesn't have ea82's and my FSM pdf is missing the carb section. Thank you.

I have a vac diagram under my hood that is not helpful, since I don't have all that stuff on there anymore. It's weberized, too, and doesn't have the Christmas tree of hard lines and other extraneous vacuum crap that came with the hitachi. Question: What components do the ports on the Thermo Vacuum switch terminate at? Which ports exactly on the thermo vac switch? I've done a lot of research on this, but can't find anything specific enough to say, for example, the top port leads to the egr, middle to the charcoal canister and bottom to the carb egr port, or what ever it is. I'm looking for a definitive vac signal path please. Thanks.

Right on. I bet that is exactly it. I disconnected a ton of stuff, but only hooked up a line that allowed my vents to actuate, but there are a few things dangling that might be related. If the CC runs directly off of engine vacuum, that is most likely the culprit. I'll check my lines when I get the engine back in. My last two vehicles had separate vacuum pumps for the cruise control, just like a turbo or a diesel, so I forgot to even check the source of vac for the 87 GL. I already torqued the bolts to snug+1/4 turn, so I'll sit with that unless someone stops me. The feel seems about right, anyways. Thanks GD, Sesh

I totally agree about the torques. I was a bike mechanic for 6 years and worked with a lot of 4mm, 5mm and 6mm bolts. My torque wrench was my arm, and when in practice, was pretty close to acurate. I also noticed that different materials could handle different torques. None the less, I'm not so concerned about these bolts not being torqued to their size and hardness standard, but to their subaru spec, for all the vibration they encounter in their position. I was so anxious to rip the malfunctioning hitachi off of the engine and install the weber, that I forgot to map out the cruise parts. Now I want to study the diagrams to actually figure it out. Everything was working before the swap, so I figure I'm just missing something... Any input on how this puppy actuates?

My goal with the cruise control diagrams is to develop a system to use stock subie cruise with my Weber. Any ideas? Perhaps if there is a FSM with hitachi info in it, I could peruse it and write something up for everyone once I make it work.

I need a few numbers. What is the torques rating for these bolts (1987 d/r 5spd)? Also, Does anyone have diagrams/fsm's for the electrical portion and mechanical portion of a hitachi carburetted ea82 cruise control system. Not my FSM nor my Haynes manuals refer to this. Thanks, Sesh

A little red loctite goes a long ways. Here's what happened to me only 330 miles from home: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/16144-re-timing-crank-pulley-cam-seal.html

Totally! I met up at Wal-mart (bless its local business and social morality destroying heart) to buy my 87 GL D/R.