kanurys

I've been bumping around the internet looking at different options for under-hood work lights to install in my lifted 87 GL. I've always just used a head lamp, but a dedicated light would be cool. Here is one option I found from DDM: http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DRL-PODs. What do you use and how do you like it?

Too bad the pics and vid don't work anymore... my 1998 outback has similar bushing problems.

Nice. You need to make that grill wood colored as well.

That bolt is the only reason I've chosen to not replace one of my bend lateral links. Someone put a jack on it before I owned the car, but the misalignment was correctable through an alignment. I second the wheel bearing theory. That is much more likely to occur. Check the differential input and output seals. If there are bearing problems there will also be seal problems. Look for gear oil leaking.

After the reading session, I fully concur about the light cut-off problem. My stock 1 piece glass units don't cut the upper edge off very nicely. It works great in canyons and the forest, but is poor for street driving. I may go the route of hella 500ff's as low and high beams, one day. They're cheap and super bright for the wattage. I have them in place of my fogs on the 1998 Legacy Outback - you know - everyone has broken fog lights on those. I have them setup on a toggle to cancel with my highs or my lows, depending on selection. Not to make this into a lighting discussion^^, here's another subject. I figured you'd do the painting right, so I thought I'd ask about your process. Thanks for that. Also, any thoughts on the SJR bumper? What do you like about it? What would you do differently? What will you do for the rear? -SK

Nice Work. I like the light conversion. I put dual beam DDM 4500K HID's in the stock housings with good results. Now I'm eyeing bumpers everywhere. What did you use to black out the grill?

I repaired/replaced the rear rotor, pads and parking brakes on my 1998 Legacy Outback. I forgot how much I hate drum brake hardware. The calipers were kind of stuck in place, too. Now the braking force is noticeably better with the caliper actually floating.

I've been going back and forth on this and reading a lot in preparation for my own frankenmotor build. I'm currently running an EJ22 Phase II on my 87 dual range transmission. I'm using a stock 4wd EA82 clutch kit (throw-out bearing, pressure plate, disc) and it drives fine. When I replace it I will use the proper EXEDY XT6 clutch kit or what ever equivalent is available. It seems this is not made anymore. The only time I notice a lack of clutch grip is when I'm off-road and need to slip the clutch a bit. The modulation is very poor. During normal street driving, there are no problems at all with running a stock EA82 clutch kit. When I do the frankenmotor mod, I will definitely upgrade the clutch to handle the higher torque.

I'd also be interested in a set of H1631SPK051S if you guys are putting something together.

I washed the 2" lifted Legacy Outback.Tires = Yokohama Geolander A/T Oh and I installed DDM Tuning LED brake lights. They seem well suited for the lenses.

maybe you should read my thread and a few others on this conversion. They're all in the forum, just search http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1

Yes -

Alright, the fuel pump has been working fine. I still have the rough running problem in rough terreign and some road situations. I misted water around the engine bay while it was running to see if I could detect any vacuum leaks. Nope, all fine. I'm really not sure where to look for the rough running/cut out problem.

All is working fine now. I replace the fuel pump, strainer, hose between fuel pump and tank assembly and the nuts on the pump terminals. I had to widen the negative termination on the wire with a step bit by hand. I also had to modify the rubber mount for the pump by trimming down a part that stuck up and cutting some grooves for the alignment fins of the new pump. Parts: Bosch 69499 from amazon Imports Direct fuel strainer from oriely 1/4" or 5/16" FI line 5mm nut and lock washer for the negative terminal 4mm nut and lock washer for the positive terminal Reuse the spider clip that holds the strainer onto the pump or get a new one to make it even easier. The way the pump and the strainer connect together is 180° from how the stock ones connect together. All the angles are the same and fitment to the tank is good. The rubber pad needs to be modified with a utility knife to fit tightly to the pump and the terminals on the wires may need to be bent 90° up but it works well and is a pretty solid swap. Thanks for all your advice.

Power and ground to the pump are fine. It's definitely the pump on the '98. I replaced the pump on the swapped '87 and ran an extra ground directly to the battery. Only time will tell with that one but it seems more stable and happy so far. Thanks for the fuel filter idea. I'll think about it, but it pulled strong to 6000+ rpm when it was running properly. I'll keep an eye on that one, though. The filter was replaced when I did the swap a few thousand miles ago, so it should still be good. I'll update tomorrow when I get the 98's pump in.

I've isolated the problem to the pump. There's no fuel pressure or anything coming out of the hose that goes to the rails and there is power to the pump connector. I have a Bosch (OEM) on order. Thanks for the input, guys. On another note, while I was running for parts my swapped GL died and wouldn't start in a busy intersection. Not a fun day. It was 95°F, too. I let it cool down and grabbed dinner. Then poked at it until it would idle smooth and got it home. The problem with it seems to come and go VERY randomly - for another thread...

Fairtax4me and johnceggleston: Great to hear from you guys. It's been a while. Good suggestions. I can usually hear my pump before the car start for a second or so. All fuses are fine. I'll check the fuel line after the filter and see if there is pressure and flow there. I think the engine is firing a tiny bit off of residual line pressure. ruparts: Thanks for the input, but your advice for another type of vehicle. Thanks for the discussion, everyone. I'll check the fuel pressure and voltage after work and post back.

First of all, I didn't have my test equipment handy to check electrical stuff. Luckily, I can leave the car parked overnight where it stopped. My girlfriend calls me and says the car won't start. When I get there and try it it barely stumbles and there is no fuel pump whine for priming. No CEL other than from the bad start (misfire 3&4) I grabbed a Napa pump before they closed thinking this is the problem. The engine fires maybe 1 or two times but mostly relies on the starter. I can't hear the pump prime like usual so I checked the connector at the pump and it's plugged in fine. All fuses are in tact. Do you guys think it's the fuel pump? I think it's original with about 140,000 miles on it. I'll check the power in the connector at the pump before installing the new one when I get to the car. Thanks for you thoughts. And yes, there's about 1/4 tank of gas in it.

Yeah, my Loyale pump is very noisy. I don't think your pump is the fuel economy problem. At least it's getting adequate pressure. All extra fuel should return to the tank. The fuel through the injectors and O2 should be metered fairly accurately and fuel is adjusted based on how much O2 is seen in the exhaust. If you're not running in closed-loop mode due to a CEL or something, then the pump pressure could effect the default injector map vs. actual fuel flow. Good to know about the issue, though. I'll keep an eye on it. I'm also going to get a new fuel check valve and install it right after the pump. FYI, I'm running a fairly new EJ Wix fuel filter in the stock EJ spot on the '87 GL.

DGEV's starve themselves when pitched to a certain side. I think it's the same as making a hard left, if memory serves correctly.

Sweet. it actually works properly!

If it doesn't work, see how long the compressor will last without lube, setup as an air compressor for on-board air.

Something like this seems like the right thing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/290842863523?hlp=false What about a new check valve? Any input? (heh)

Yeah, that was my original plan - to replace it with a new pump and put a working junk yard one in the trunk. I think I'll go with that plan. It doesn't have to be exact fit. I'm considering a Walbro for a budget pump, as I don't need that much volume delivery, so I guess this thread is about what brand/model you guys would go with. Consider cost, quality, reliability, etc... Any more info on that Ford pump from the 80's? Thanks guys - I'm just caching information, here, to help me make my decision.

You can probably find them cheaper. Try these guys: http://myworld.ebay.com/usabearingsbelts?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 If you search for bearings with /C3 at the end of their part number that means they're of higher grade/lower tolerance for electric motors. I know it's for EA82's but it's still useful for you: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137473-wheel-bearing-advice/?do=findComment&comment=1156044 The link to GD's post is great.