kanurys

Does anyone have a diagram of the cruise control system on a hitachi carb vehicle as well as the electrical diagram? I'd like to study it and figure out how to adapt it for my weber. Also, the torque values for a D/R input shaft holder bolts (as above pic) on the front of the transmission? Thanks again, beateru for the numbers you had.

As I know. Thanks for the numbers, though. That's great.

Bump -> any answers to the above questions?

Time for an update: I installed the one little piece of timing cover to protect the driver's side timing belt. Pics later. The day was mostly spent on cleaning the engine bay and staring at the transmission. I think I might rebuild it another year. For now I have these questions: -What is the Pressure Plate to Flywheel Bolt torque on a 23 spline setup? Neither my haynes manual or my partial FSM have this number. -What is the proper torque for the bolts that hold the input shaft guide on? These ones: Before: After: That's the only piece of timing cover I'm installing on the engine:

I love it. When we go into recession, all I want to do is go hang out in my shop, too. Excellent fab work, by the way.

elbow grease + lots of degreaser = shiny aluminium

Finished my PCV setup on the rebuild: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114817

Phoenix? It might take two Dr. Peppers. It's a long ways from Durango.

OK. After a trip to the Ace hardware, I got a few things and finished the PCV system. I also installed the flywheel and pilot bearing. I picked up this little guy for $0.70, which has a brass insert near the bottom end that I could clamp to: And made a spot for him using a 1/4" bit in the carburetor filter mounting plate bolt hole with a little help from a zip tie on the carb mounting stud for support. I used the T from the original PCV setup to connect the drivers side breather, PCV valve and the smaller vent to the air cleaner. It worked GREAT. (The blocked off hole in the corner of the filter mount is my brilliant idea before realizing the filter sat right over it, as my neighbor pointed out.) Now I have the proper sized tubes running to the proper ports. Clean and designed just like the diagram in the FSM. This routing makes me proud.

Does anyone have a pdf of the COMPLETE FSM for an EA82? Mine is missing the clutch section and a few others. What are the torque values for the pressure plate, etc... Oh, it's a 23 spline clutch.

Ya, I thought it was funny, too. Thanks for the hornet idea... maybe next time I rebuild a gutless supreme.

sorry, maybe that was a little harsh. Anyways, the paint is just for style. When I had a completely iron engine, I painted things to keep them from rusting, but those were Willys days...

Actually, it's so readers without any thoughtful comments get a seizure when they look at my pictures... This is a useful but low budget rebuild I'm doing for fun. If I can't have a little fun painting it, then why even clean anything? Sure - The valve covers worked fine before, so did the water pipes, and the pulleys, so I guess you nailed it, in a sense. Oh, and the term I used was engine enamel.

My thoughts exactly. I went out and grabbed a tube of Ultra Grey and a helacoil kit since someone stripped out the cam seal carrier bolts before I bought the vehicle. Here are some pictures of my process and where I'm currently at: Before: After: Before: After: Bleeding the lifters Aaaaaaand... time for a beer. (that's my girlfriend's impreza)

Do you guys think Permatex Ultra Blue will work fine to mate the cam carriers to the heads? http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Blue_Multipurpose_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm Since I have half a tube left, I'd rather use it up, than go buy Ultra Grey. http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Grey_Rigid_High-Torque_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm

Thanks for the reassurance. The book says 47, so I took it to 55 lb-ft. No work on it today. Instead, we brewed 12 gallons of Belgian double.

I got the heads back, lapped the valves and threw on the permatorques with final torque of 55 lb-ft. Here are some pics. Do you guys think I should retorque after run-in or just call it good, as is? I'd rather not pull the engine again.

Nice work on the XT6, above. Today I lapped the valves and put permatorques on my ea82

Just heard back form Mispah. Total $55 shipped back to me, 8 ea82 lifters. Not a bad deal.

Thanks. That confirms what I already thought about vacuum routing. I'm going to run the dizzy close to stock... somewhere between 6 and 8 degrees advance. Yuck, rust-belt! I have a 98 outback that spent 2 or 3 years in Chicago before I bought it in Oregon. There are some signs of rust on underside components, but I think I got it in time. Now I live in Durango, CO and have the weber jetted for high altitude. This will be a fun rig up here when I get it on the mountain roads.

I was studying the FSM description of the PCV system. Right now I have the PCV valve totally independent of the breather tubes. I believe the way to do it right is to drill another hole in the Weber filter mounting plate and connect the passenger side vent to that hole. The Driver's side vent tube gets T'd to the stock hole in the weber plate and the PCV valve. This way, clean air is drawn across the crank case from the passenger side to the driver's side and the gas is then metered into the PCV valve just like the stock setup. I'll post pictures when I get to that point in my engine rebuild.

My understanding is, first of all, that EGR is good for less NOx emissions and cooler engine temps, as well as better cruising fuel economy. I'm keeping it instead of blocking off. The Weber should have a vacuum timing advance port on the front and another port plugged with a brass screw just near the timing advance port. That other port is for EGR. Run that line to the manifold temp switch and then to the egr. I'm not sure how to separately control the timing advance. I need another temp switch or some way to open up the advance once the engine warms. Ideas? Also, what is the gadget that connects to the EGR with the 5/8" pipe and sits off on the passenger side of the engine bay? It also has a small 1/8" vac line who's function and connection is also unknown to me. Can anyone answer that? thanks edit: I figured out that it's the anti after-burn valve. The large pipe goes to the EGR valve and the small vac line activates when the egr activates. I think I saw a post by GD that said it's not needed for the engine to run well.

Cool. Let us know how it turns out. TAKE SOME PICTURES. Almost forgot the non tangential information: Today I picked up oil with my girlfriend for her 2004 Impreza Sport. FYI, Valvoline synth blend is on sale at Oriely's auto parts (CSK).

This one had a mechanical switch stuck in the manifold. It's on a hitachi to webber converted unit. As I understand, the Weber has a vac port for the EGR. I can get a $17 switch from rock auto, since mine has been broken since I bought it. Also, my understanding doesn't incorporate bleeding the vac signal back from the air cleaner. When I've studied other models/systems it appears that the ported temp switch just cuts off the vac to the egr/distributor advance when it's cold. This vac signal flow is more of what I need confirmation on. I also might put the charcoal canister back in and actuate it when the egr actuates. Thanks for that tid bit, though. It all helps. Sesh

Interesting. Can someone describe the flow path of the ported vacuum temp switch? If I'm going to do this EGR correctly, I want to fully understand it.