kanurys

Hi guys, I was rolling up one of our risky 4x4 trails with my lady when my car started to buck and have low power as I hit big bumps. At first I thought it was a loose ground (wire, not trail) but all are tight. Later it did this on hard S-bends on pavement. Both times the fuel pump was making really nasty bathroom fan noises like the bushings/bearings were bad. The sounds were irregular in occurrence and duration. Time for a new pump - or two(?). What would you run as a new fuel pump for an EJ22 (Phase II ~ 149hp)? I want this part to be really reliable, so I had the thought to run two pumps in parallel with check valves so they would both run and if one failed way out in the back country I could still drive out. What do you think of that idea, as well as the first question? Thanks. SK p.s. The one that failed is from a Loyale - junk yard score. A pump to run this:

GL carb and GL EFI tanks are different. The FI one has surge baffles and different sized ports. -Not sure about bolt up.

Alright. All is assembled and ready to ride! Many thanks to my friend Russ for throwing the GL on his alignment table and giving it some sweet tweaks. The before and after drive were like night and day. With the toe set like in the printout the wheel hop is greatly reduced from before. These numbers are close to stock but slightly I mean slightly more negative toe, as I remember. And as a recap, this is with a 4" SJR lift and the heavy tempo springs cut to 12" free height and 2 washers (maybe 3/16" total) in front of each radius rod for caster angle. The rear is out of spec, kind of, but I didn't want to touch it until I get the rear bearings readjusted. On the rack: The numbers: We're not building a piano, here, folks.

I would imagine that both those things are true. You may have the ones for less weight. I think I have the most heavy ones you can get for the tempo. I'd recommend the lightest ones to anyone else - though I have not tried them, personally. Then we could get a baseline. After cutting these, it seems to drive well. I have yet to test them on bumpy roads or serious 4x4. That will all come with pictures.

Today, I took the springs down to 12" free height at the center of the rod. They sit at about 0.5" over the stock springs. After they settled in on a drive everything was much better. The ride quality is more firm but still very compliant. It seems that the damping rate of the stock shocks is able to cope with the stiffer springs alright. This is all with a stock front bumper. I'll build and install a custom steel bumper which will add a small amount of weight to the front. I have no idea why my springs had to be cut an inch shorter than czny's. Must be the thin air up here.

No problem. There is a lot of text in there to read but hopefully it will give you some insight into some little details.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/110926-seshs-1987-gl-build-thread/?hl=sesh

The EJ engines can run wide open on 35-45 psi with adequate volume flow rate. The walbro should be fine if it's within the psi spec. For higher psi than that, one might need different hoses and clamps or there would be leaks. I'm running a pump off of a EFI EA82.

That's very strange. The only thing I can think of is that it's a pressure problem which resolves when there is enough head space in the tank. Do you have a tank pressure sensor and vent solenoid hooked up? Maybe it's not liking the signal it's getting vs. the actual situation. Just speculating... Not sure why it's only one side of the engine. Maybe it has something to do with the vent line being submerged and messing with the regulator on that rail. Nice desert pics. I took my 2" lifted outback to the desert a week ago and had a great time.

Cool Product. It's very tempting for my 99 Phase II EJ22 (single port)

I cut the springs to 13" free-height, taking approximately a quarter of a coil off each spring. The front end dropped exactly 1". Still pigeon-toed and 1.5" over the original 4" lift. With bumber weight on it and a few days settling I'm guessing it will come down to around 1" over.

Heck yeah, dude!

That's a useful little space, isn't it? I have my coolant overflow reservoir there and an HID ballast for that light. My air-box is in the stock EJ location (where your EJ washer reservoir is) with a big hole cut in the engine bay to the fender. Eventually it will get a snorkel, which will also help with the low-end torque. My washer fluid reservoir is in the stock location with 2 bolts instead of 3. Just squeezed in there. It will have to go when I do the snorkel, though. Looks good in there, dude. BTW, I have a whole A/C setup if you'd like it. I mean everything in the loop that is an exact replacement for your parts. Come get it and we'll go wheelin'!

Thanks Jeszek, Do you know what a genuine Subaru tierod looks like? I have no idea what the old ones are. Maybe they're OEM, maybe they're aftermarket. The new item's part number is Moog EV208. After some more research I'm pretty sure they're the wrong tierods. Besides the ridges on the cup, they're just a little longer. Everything else fits fine. The ridges don't really rub on the boot at all. If I don't have adequate adjustment for alignment, then I'll just chop a little off the ends. Maybe it's for an RX?

I forgot about this thread when the forum upgraded and I lost the subscription. I did the basic front bushing swap. I'll report back soon...

Nice. Put credit where credit is due, then. I like the mod a lot. I used to be subscribed to that thread until usmb upgraded...

Here's my latest progress and conundrum... I ordered tie rods based on my VIN number, I think. Here's what I'm looking at: I installed them and they seem to fit fine and work with the original alignment as I measured the old ones and matched them. Hmmm...

No argument here, I just proved your point in post number 22. I determined that what changes is the range of force that the spring encounters and where the center of that range is on a scale of what the spring force is. The effect of the feeling is subjective. A torsion bar is a great way to look at it. Spring RATE is dependent on displacement and force. If you change one of them you change the spring rate. In this case we're changing displacement per coil. Thanks for the input.

By "factory tabs" he's referring to the flanges on the shock tube that bolt to the knuckle insert (in this case) or directly to the knuckle on an EJ car. Alignment isn't so much the issue, it's length; To get a longer travel shock in there, JacksonRally had to put his own flanges on the shock and it's not safe to weld to a sealed strut tube, hence the re-buildable rear sti tubes, also they have the right travel for his purposes. Your questions were not real clear so I think I answered them. Let me know if I can clarify anything. Check your grammar and re-read them before posting next time so people answering the post can do so accurately and you get a clear answer (or drink less beer - I know I've been guilty of bad posting while inebriated ). I think this is my biggest peeve on any forum. Kind of a help-me-help-you sort of thing. I could be wrong about the tabs, though. We'll let JR weigh in.

I've paged through that book. It is very good. I've been a little busy with other stuff lately. I'll probably get the springs cut and back on this weekend. My tie-rods came! It's almost back on the road, er, off the road... you get what I mean... I think the spring will be fully compressed before the bumper (snubber thingy) is used. I'm not sure what I'll do until I pull it apart again. In the mean time, I've Autocaded up a bumper design to fill that void.

I picked these up on ebay. They're made in China, but a decent brand which I've run on machinery before. USA Bearing and Belt sells them, too. I didn't use the shims, obviously by my bearing choice. It's so easy to replace them on EA82's that I won't worry about it. Finding shims on McMaster Carr is a fun time. Sometimes their website is very useful and sometimes you can totally get lost in it and not find your parts.

I almost threw that question in there. For the same reason, I'm keeping all my stock stuff so I can go back if I want. I have Pedders HD springs on my Outback. They're also a 2" lift. It took a year for them to really be comfortable and soften up. But, legacy/outback suspension is way to squishy from the start, so it was a good upgrade. I'll report about the GL spring mod soon.

Nice write-up. That's good to know about the STI strut types. I'm going to stick with my Ford Tempo springs for now, but your mod might happen well into the future. When I approach an electrical problem I have a similar process: gather data on the current situation, decide how to change it to meet my needs, mock it up on a breadboard for testing and when I'm happy, design it for hard manufacture or proto board in a cad program. Designing is the fun part but seeing the final product to completion is satisfying. I'm still struggling with the Ford springs and getting their lengths right. It will be there eventually. If you haven't done the toyota bushing mod for the inner control arm bushings you will love it. It takes 30 min once you have all the parts, too. It's on my latest post for my car...

Oh yeah, are you farmilar with this mod? http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1911692

A few questions: Shock selection: Is that front strut a Subaru branded strut or something else? I'm looking for brand options which can be dissembled for welding. Camber Adjustment: Are both bolts cam-bolts or just 1 like stock EJ? How are the holes aligned on the bottom of the front shocks? Is there some camber adjustment built in or are they square/parallel with the shock tube? Why not cut out the strut mount area of the chassis and put in camber/caster plates as an alternative to what you did? (as an aside, I really like your approach) What was the process you went through to design the knuckle inserts and shock tube brackets? How did you align everything so it came out straight? Excellent job. I'm mulling over hacking the strut towers up and building in some camber adjustment where the lift block mounts to the tower.