kanurys

Yeah, and the shorter strut works with the hub-strut adapter well.

Very obvious. You might be giving me ideas... I should add: very intelligent way to adapt the hubs.

How did the rear struts turn out?

It's cheap, just replace it with an OEM one and be done with it.

And to clarify about springs since I've read so much misinformation on here: The spring rate is not higher when you cut a spring down. It's exactly the same. Ignoring the issue of pre-load, a spring's rate is the same when its unloaded or on a shock. Variable rate springs are really just like having 2 different spring rates. The force felt against a spring increases as it's compressed a certain distance. When you pack lots of coils into a space, the travel is distributed across each coil and therefore there is less change over that distance of compression in the force of the spring (not to be confused with the spring rate). If you have an identical spring rate and fewer coils (even with less pre-load) in the same compression space, the force felt from the spring would ramp much faster than many coils. That is why it feels stiffer. It's due to the spring RATE remaining constant and each coil compressing further than the first example. Wait, I guess that means it has a higher spring rate = force / displacement. So in my case, with cutting the springs down, it starts from a lower initial force (pre-load in the same space) and ramps up faster, as opposed to starting at a higher initial force and ramping up more slowly. So with the variable rate springs, I've trimmed the stiffer part, making it respond more abruptly when active (as the lower rate part finishes compressing), while retaining the lower spring rate part for smoooooth action. I guess that's kind of intuitive. I just like talking through this stuff.

Thanks. Bushing credit should really go to czny. I just did my version of the mod with factory sleeve and bolt. This may be upgraded if I decide to adjust the camber a little.

I guess that would be the diligent thing to do. I'll take 1/3 of a turn off of em. Yours looks high in front on your thread. Is that before they settled?

I calculate that I need to cut 1.513 coils off to get it to fit properly at full compression. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AulzhoggZfFGdE1KNDJQUUY4WmRobnRBWTJfaDMyRlE&usp=sharing I might just cut 1 coil off and keep a little pre-load. I guess?

Thanks Bruce, I'll measure things up and see how it compares to what the travel should be. Then I'll have a better idea of how much to cut off. Does anyone have numbers on the compressed vs. extended length of a front shock? I did some searching and couldn't find it. Edit - Nevermind. Found it on Monroe's site: http://catalog.monroe.com/catalogPart/monroePartSearchFromECatalog.do?partKey=626418&partNumber=71877&catalogKey=502&methodName=initialiseMonroe&catalogCode=monroe&locale=EN&loadStatus=ACTIVE Compressed Length 14.000" Extended Length 19.750"

OK, Lets try to spur some discussion, here: Today, the struts are not topped out but maybe 1/2" to 3/4" from topped out. I set a 100 lb weight (bag of garage stuff) on the hood and the car sits down about 1/2". I think I'm going to have to pull the shocks and cut the springs some more to decrease the pre-load. Do you guys have any idea how much I should take off? Is the Spring Rate column units lbs/inch in this sheet? Newtons/centimeter? http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/Universal_Coil_Springs.asp CC856 has a stated spring rate of 146 (somethings/something). If I cut the spring 1/2" shorter at free height would I be decreasing each side's pre-load by 73 (somethings/something). It sounds considerable for such a light vehicle.

throw a few bottles of chevron techron at it for a few tanks of gas and see if it gets any better.

Here's what it looks like with everything installed and I drove it around a few hundred feet. I think it will settle a little but not as much as 2.5". I'm going to build a bumper and install it and see where that leaves us. Maybe put a bag of concrete on it so simulate the weight of a winch. I'm thinking that extra 0.5" I cut the springs at from CZNY's is pre-loading the struts just a little too much. It might get better with the add-ons. Though I'm experienced at being a mechanic, I haven't really dealt with springs too much. You guys have really been benefactors to me on this.

Nice. With my 2.2 I get 275 to 325 miles on about 13 gal. if I drive it nice, which isn't very often. I bet there were some minor changes to the taper of the potentiometer between the old and new setups. Also, it's probably acting like that because of age.

Yep, the springs sit in the notch at the bottom and the tops are pointed out as marked. I'll throw the other side on and see if that helps. The only thing I can think of is the strut is bound at full extension and might get un-stuck when everything moves a little in symmetry.

Thanks Jeszek. Yes, the part we used is same fitment but different part. My springs were new, as far as I know. I cut mine to 13.5" free height and he cut his to 13", so there is that difference. It's about 1/4 turn on this spring. Mine are so stiff that I don't think this accounts for it. Thanks for responding. We'll figure this out!

Well, I mounted 1 strut this afternoon and put the wheel on the ground. The thing is so stiff that it won't compress even with me jumping on it, not that I'm that heavy . I can't determine if anything is binding or stuck, but it's totally topped out. The number of coils are the same as in ---->CZNY's picture<----, so I'm not sure what the deal is. Any ideas?

Man, you always go big...

What thickness of pipe did you use for that bumper?

See post #4. Also I started a thread with pictures of mine.

Thanks Jeszek. I've followed your posts for some time now and and familar with the material. Phase two may be to do the rear springs in the future.

Thanks Bruce. I'll be sure to get the alignment right. I think that's extra important with this funny spring setup. I've been using an equivalent compressor. Maybe my extra 1/2" free height from yours is getting me into trouble. It's about .25 turns longer. Anyways, that's my only hurdle, so this swap seem so be going alright. (crossing fingers, knocking on wood)

Sorry man, I'd help you if you broke down in Durango....

Parts: Energy Suspension 8.2105G Bushings Moog cc856 Progressive Springs & isolator from '94 Ford Tempo v6 w/ air conditioning Moog Ball Joint Moog Inner Tie Rod Moog outer Tie Rod Sealed Wheel Bearings National Wheel Seals KYB Strut Mount Napa 1990 Loyal 95AC Axle Black Spray Paint Here's my progress so far: So far so good. I can't compress the springs enough to get them on. I need at least another inch. I might have a buddy at a shop use a full stand-alone spring compressor and throw the struts together for a case of beer. More to come...

I read that on here, somewhere. I think I'll do it along with marine bearing grease like on all my other stuff. The warn out bearings were found when I was tearing down for these other things: -Moog progressive '94 tempo springs cut to 13.5" free-height, bought new from czny -new inner/outer tie rods and boots -new ball joints -polyurethane toyota leaf spring shackle bushings in control arms with larger bolts and holes knurled out a little out and down. -axle replacement I think the bearings were old or original but still good until I put 1000 miles on with 27's and a 4" SJR lift. The grease looks good, but old molly type.

good point. I can't find a *amn thing on them. Maybe I'll just buy 4 through my acct. at Fastenal.