kanurys

Nice thread. GD has usually steered everyone in the right direction. I trust his advice and experience. looks pretty good: http://www.ebay.com/itm/370730046523?hlp=false

Yeah, I'm pretty skeptical about sites that say "genuine." I was wondering if any one has had experience with partsgeek and their reliability on descriptions. $94.11 shipped for both sides. Not too bad. Even the parts stores sell each individual bearing for no less than $25 or $30. That'll put you well over $120 plus the seals. I like the heating idea, but I think it's time to replace the axle.

Nice, I just started a thread about front wheel bearings too. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137473-wheel-bearing-advice/ It is relevant to this thread, some what...

That's not a bad deal, is it? Are these really genuine subaru parts? http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/362-01017378.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=YN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=1985-1989+Subaru+GL+Wheel+Bearing+Kit+Genuine+Front+85-89+Subaru+Wheel+Bearing+Kit+1986+1988&gclid=CMPGleDlp7YCFY9DMgod5mcAJw Also, the front wheel bearing pictorial guide in the USRM doesn't have any pictures. I have an inner bearing which came off on the axle. Any ideas on how to get it off? I could just replace the axle, too. It is just starting to click...

That's exactly why I didn't do the 4runner/Tacoma shock mod. That and I don't want more suspension lift in the back. There's already 1" stress from the SJR 4" lift. I don't think I need more clearance, just more load capacity. Let me know how the Honda springs work out.

I think there is a need for fuel tank temp functionality. It effects cold starts, somehow. I'm not sure exactly how because it's hard to test. We'll keep plugging away at it...

At least our wagons will be classic cars in a few years

That's what it is at the ECU in my spreadsheet and on my car.

check and see if the colors are like my Phase II EJ22: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AulzhoggZfFGdFZVbjladjJKaWFqX0swSEdHR2xCNHc#gid=0 I made this spreadsheet to do my harness strip-down a while back. On the spreadsheet hit Ctrl-F and search for "fuel temp"

I can't wait! That's my plan too. I'll probably make a set of bumpers after the front end rebuild, so that's perfect. Maybe I'll cut them at 13.5" or 14 in anticipation of that. Any plans for the rear springs?

Snap a picture for me, if you get a chance, of the sensor location.

Maybe I should just get an FI fuel tank and have a temp sensor, too.

No prob on the wiring. Let us know what you find. Superu, no kidding about CA, but it shouldn't be too bad if they're aimed right for the test. Shouldn't raise any flags.

Gotchya. I must be thinking carburated. Well, let me pull up a diagram and figure it out...

Not off the top of my head. I could take a look when I have some spare time, but that might be a while. The EA82 doesn't have a temp sensor in the tank, so there's nothing to hook it up to, anyways. I could help find the wire in the newer harness, but what to do with it, I don't know. Maybe you could probe another car at the fuel tank to find it. They should be similar wire colors in a late model 1999 through 2003. Then trace it back to the connector by the passenger kickboard under the dash.

Well, the swap has been running great for about 6 months, now. It made it through the winter and a few -10°F nights. Below around 10°F it would be VERY hard to start and almost kill the battery if it did start. Crank for a few sec, wait, crank, wait, crank, etc.. each time it might fire once or twice and then not continue to run. Above 10°F it would take about 1 crank to start. The only codes are fuel vent solenoid (which doesn't exist), and fuel tank temp sensor (also doesn't exist). How the heck should I get rid of these? Weld a bung onto the tank for a sensor? Connect a vent solenoid? What have you guys done? I found that the engine is hard to start on cold starts if it reads a wrong temperature in the tank, though once started runs perfectly. This was tested with a variety of resistors to simulate the sensor.

Nice. I hope it was as easy as we thought it would be. It should work like the newer gauge senders. They're about the same resistance. A problem I'm running into is on cold starts the engine acts differently depending on the temperature reading from the fuel. At certain temperatures its harder to start and if I fake it out with a resistor when the tank is reallllllly cold (like 10°F) it doesn't like it. But if it's more like 40°F it's happy, but revs up to 2000rpm first and then back down to normal. Oh well... It shouldn't be much of a problem in SO-CAL.

Cool, thanks. It looks as if the main difference in springs is that the auto trans can impose more output torque on the system. Also, the springs you chose (CC856) can support a heavier weight. Most of the books say "w/ A/C". I think I'll do the same but I'm finding it difficult to get the upper pieces like you show which are ground down.

Can you elaborate on which tempo strut mount you used and how you fit it to the chassis? I came across these in the 1993 Ford Tempo 3.0L section: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=203514&cc=1139712 which give ±1.25° camber...

Read the earlier posts... Air box, etc

Its the right sender. I mean it won't show accurate speed because of the different final drive and the larger tires.

Can't wait to see the headlight design. Maybe some shallow Hella 500 ff's? I believe the speed sensor that works with your harness and plugs into the transmission where the cable used to go in will be putting out the wrong pulse frequency. Let me know and I can build a pulse matching circuit for it. I've already tested such a thing. My next project will be a front end rebuild with many modifications like extended radius rods, slight camber modification, etc... a lot like the ones here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=136259

How did the switch back to original (I'm assuming you're referring to stock) length radius rods perform? How did this compare to your lengthened rods? I really like your build. I have the same vehicle down to the color with a 4" SJR lift in it. I'm running a 99 Phase II EJ22, which seems like a pretty good balance for power/weight/efficiency. I have similar wheel hop and tire wear issues. If I'm taking off from a stop I have to finess the pedal, even on dry pavement.

If you get out towards Durango, let me know.

I like it. That is exactly how my ECU sits, although it's just zip-tied in place. I still have to get the fuel tank codes to go away. I did some testing, but now that I started a new job, things are a bit busy. I'll let you know when I have success.