kanurys

Make sure the chassis is grounded to the battery and the computer grounds and main and fuel relay grounds are attached. I've seen this problem before and these things fixed it.

I should mention that the old rubber seemed to be in very good condition. Nice and pliable, etc...

Job done. No tick tick anymore. Just smooth EJ251. I only readjusted the right side where the tick was coming from (cyl 1 and 3). That makes the anomalies in the left side more apparent. The left side still sounds good. It's just louder than the right. Now I have half of a valve cover kit to figure out what to do with... ideas?

Thanks guys. I guess I was looking for some re-assurance about reusing old stuff. I'm usually of the school to replace things with new when it comes to seals, etc... I'm getting the kit.

I have replaced with OEM about 7000 miles ago, but I think a gasket set is a wash in the budget of a long trip.

Yeah. I guess I'll just go get a kit.

I want to check the passenger side head for a miss-adjusted valve rocker. What is your experience in reusing the old rubber parts? I guess I could grab a cheap kit.

Get a really big channel locks and a sticky bike road tire (check bike shop dumpster). Put the road side of the tire to the shaft and have someone strong hang onto it with the channel locks. Then use a breaker on the nut.

Where will you put the current limiting resistors with those ebay leds?

Cool. How are the companies close? Also, I just want to confirm that loyale bearings are the same ones for my 1987 GL.

OOOOOKKKKK... would one of these NTN sealed bearings fit my 1987 GL wagon? http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/17207-01056220.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=YN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=1974-1989+Subaru+DL+Wheel+Bearing+NTN+Front+74-89+Subaru+Wheel+Bearing+1980+1986&gclid=CKmA-LqngbQCFexAMgodsFMAWQ or http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/408-01056220.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=YN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=1990-1994+Subaru+Loyale+Wheel+Bearing+NTN+W0133-1633822+Front+90-94+Subaru+Wheel+Bearing+92+93&fp=pp&gbm=a&gclid=CLqesfamgbQCFck7MgodYzEAPQ Thanks

I've used Thermo Quiets on several applications with great results. Just don't use them with slotted or drilled rotors. In my experience, they need the full surface area to brake well.

Thanks. I think I'll grab 4 of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/370620204013

Where would you guys pick up the sealed wheel bearings for "cheap?"

Don't forget to bleed the air out of the lifter by pumping them by hand in an oil bath. Then install.

We should make stickers: "EJ it."

This is exactly what happened to me on a trip. The CV on the trans stub was wobbling around at 80mph. Sometimes it would align and feel smooth, then I'd hit a bump and it would start to shake. This was on an MWE axle, with 5000 miles on it, btw.

Oh yeah, I have the vent select problem, too. Maybe the new engine has better vacuum and that will go away. Or it might be a leak that only shows up when it's really cold out.

I know how it is. Work has kept me totally pinned down. Also I'm still waiting for some parts for my electronics projects. I'm still working on the tank code fake out...

^^Sometimes cold weather finds the weakest link. My GL blinker stock return springs don't work when it's below 20°F. This morning it was 9°F, here in Durango. So much for my garden. It will be a good test as this is the most cold the engine swap has seen since it went in. At least it isn't running in limp mode and should cope alright. It's the battery I'm worried about.

Maybe you could combine the torsen with a front parking brake setup so it could drag slightly when you need the torsen style diff to transfer power. Just a silly idea... or dual separate parking front parking break levers ??? then you could even just run the open diff... Man that sounds wacky now that I write it.

No. None of the tank sensors. They will throw codes but not put it into limp mode.

Here's what I measured on my 1998 Legacy outback: The gauge sends 5v to the fuel level senders which are then grounded. At nearly 1 ohm the tank reads nearly full. At about 110 ohms the tank reads empty. This is almost the same case as the EA measurements you posted here. Check that one side of the EA sender plug is connected to ground and just connect the other sender wire to the EJ gauge wire which should show 5v from the gauge when not hooked up to the sender. No special electronics necessary. There is also another 5v wire for the low fuel light. This would require some special electronics to get to come on at the right time. It's up to you if you want to try to make it work or not. Let me know if the gauge works directly with a grounded fuel sender. I'll figure out what resistors we need to fake out the computer for fuel tank temp and pressure, etc...

Thanks for thinking of paying for parts. The parts are pretty cheap. I'd like to be able to sell these as a conversion product, so if it works you can be the guinea pig and reap the bennies. You just have to report back to me how well it works

I haven't fallen off the edge of the earth. I'm just waiting for a parts order to come, in which I tacked on a few extra parts for this fuel conversion project.