Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Pgh_Scoob

Members
  • Posts

    159
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Pgh_Scoob

  • Birthday 09/01/1985

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pittsburgh
  • Occupation
    Auto Tech
  • Biography
    I was introduced to subarus by a friend of mine when I was 16 and got my own when I was 19 and loved them ever since
  • Vehicles
    Subarus

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Pgh_Scoob's Achievements

USMB is life!

USMB is life! (4/11)

16

Reputation

  1. Sounds like a A/C clutch going bad... My 03 Baja did the same thing. I was thinking it was a low charge because the compressor will cycle if low on charge or while charging until properly filled but after knowing I had a proper fill it would do the same thing but if I popped the hod and hit the compressor clutch it would allow the magnet to engage and work for a limited time. They are not hard to replace at all but you need to get the system evacuated of any refrigerant prior to any service of the A/C system. Greg
  2. do you hear the pump running when you pull to mist? If not then most likely the pump being bad.. if you do hear it run then look for a disconnected hose under the hood or possibly clogged nozzles. Hope this helps Greg
  3. Wow been a while since I was on here but I do have 4 matching 7+ 32nds mid grade tires and the ABS works fine I'm just personally a fan of it al all. My 97 OBS drive so much better after cutting the ABS wheel spied wires when I swapped out struts. They wre to rusty to want to deal with but it want a matter of a leak. I obliviously haven't made it to the junk yard yet but will definitely just swap out the unit. Easy to access and looks pretty straight forward. Now my last dinemma is all that I've seen online were a square pattern for the lines going in and mine is in a straight line at how the brakes lines run into the unit. Is there a difference or would either work? Thanks as always Greg
  4. Yeah this is the first time I've ever seen one fail and it's a very slight leak but could be the reasoning behind my not up to par brake pedal.... When I get a day off I'm gonna go pull one but is there any real difference between the inline to square inlets for brake lines.... If I find the square paytern( more recent ) abs unit could I just run the lines correctly for Lf lr rf rr and be good to go or did they change things around like how it controls the abs? Thanks as always Greg
  5. yeah thats what I was afraid of. Im trying to be as cheap as possible with this repair and might just try and find a unit at the pick a part for a decent price. Thanks Greg
  6. So I just found my slow brake fluid leak and its coming from the large seal on my ABS Pump/Unit. I started looking around online and all of the results all seem to be incorrect. My Lines are straight from front to back and everything I found have been in a square pattern..... But I am not a big fan of ABS at all. Although I do prefer this ABS systems as opposed to my 03 Baja which engaged on any tiny bump I would not mind bypassing it completely and saving a few bucks while im at it but not sure if its a simple bypass or would I have to run new lines directly off of the master and would it just be better to replace the ABS unit. Thanks Greg
  7. ok cool will do. I was figuring it would be something like that but didnt have any motivation to check last night with sleet/rain coming down and working outside. I will let you know what I find later on today. thanks Greg
  8. Hello All I am looking for some possible input on my girlfriends situation.... 05 Legacy 2.5 N/A Limited with Auto Trans After sitting for a few days outside with the consistent temps from 0-30 give or take and quite a bit of sleet/snow/ice she finally tried to run to the store today and had immediate loss of power. She only got a half a block before calling it quits and turning around.... Long story short and about 5 hours later I scanned it and got Cylinder 1&3 misfire. Started up and it ran fine.. took it for a quick test drive trying to get it to replicate... but it did not work. it had plenty of power and felt smooth but a quick talk to an old suby tech was saying that it could be a cat issue and under recall??? and would it show its defect more when the car has sat for a few days... because up until recently she was driving the car daily with no problem. She got this used a little over a year ago and everything has seemed to be up to date as far a plugs/wires maintenance goes and never missed a beat until now.... I was thinking possibly some moisture build up somewhere or maybe bad grounds... I did spray around with a squirt bottle to try and get an arch but had no success. I only took a quick look at it but was looking for any advice and will get it up to my shop tomorrow to get a better look at it. I am gonna drive it again tonight to see how it goes and will give any updates. Thanks, Greg
  9. I had an 03 N/A 5 speed baja that I picked up with 182k. Although it was a N/A there still are some other problematic areas. In the rear door jams right where the door meets the body in the corner they are prone to show signs of rot. Mine had small bubbling on one side and a small hole on the other and after a year both sides were holes one almost the size of a baseball. Also someone went ahead and pulled their cladding to fix the body work and discovered the entire panel rotted in various spots. So if it show any signs of rust be prepared to invest in quite a bit of body work. Also I replaced my transmission due to the front Input Bearing (iirc) going bad. When driving and the clutch engaged there was a nasty growl but would go away when pushing in the clutch pedal. You dont have to replace the transmission if this is present... depending on how bad it is... mine starting popping out of 4th so I went ahead and replaced the whole unit instead of tearing apart and realizing it was too far gone. Oh and one last thing that I have read about with the turbo models is a banjo bolt that is part of the oil feed to the turbo (iirc) has a screen that gets clogged and causes oil starvation to the turbo. I believe theres a recall but not sure but either way your gonna want to check in to if its been replaced or replace it. Also if there has been a turbo replacement due to this verify that nothing went into the engine. I had just read about people trying to replace the turbo and then shortly after having complete engine failure due to the initial turbo failure and debris. Hope this helps in your decision making and like mentioned above the turbo models of anything are the ones for people with deeper pockets. Good luck and they truly are fun cars just wish they would have offered a h6 versions instead of the turbo. The 2.5 N/A just doesnt do it justice for the weight of the baja. Greg
  10. Thanks for the input but yeah mine amazingly popped right out.... Which now has me thinking it was changed already.... Sooooo now I get to play the waiting game and pray that it was the crank sensor Will keep you updated
  11. General rule of thumb for AWD vehicles is no more the 4/32 tread difference between tires and with michellins you should be golden in just replacing the one unless you have excessive edge wear due to bad alignment
  12. Hah... well I guess Im replacing my Crank Sensor. It died again in the beginning or rush hour traffic after about no more than 3 miles of driving. Came to a stop at a red light and all of a sudden it cut out and just wanted to crank... Few moments later and it fired right up... Oh and to answer earlier questions about short trip or long trip no start (Getting Hot) there is no difference... Completely intermittent at this point. BUT after it started I had a DTC... Stopped by Advance to grab their scan tool and read Crank Shaft Position Circuit Failure... So with all of the other symptoms I think I might go this route... Unless this could be a faulty code set by something else... Oh and I was under the impression the if the ECT was bad it would read -40... Greg
  13. Have not tried ether but from this being a continuing issue which I thought was from the MAF but before I replaced the MAF I did check for spark and it was always present and I'm trying to put as little money as possible into this thing so putting another sensor on with out being 100% sure is out of the question and any no start I've seen with CPS issues has always had a code for it which I have no codes..... Which is a good thing to an extent. I am not going after the coolant temp sensor because it has always read correct temps in correlation to eng temp and live data. And after researching I am down to the fuel pump relay or the PCM which sends the signal to run the fuel pump. I will be pulling my car into my shop shortly.... Hopefully and can check more stuff out
  14. Are your carpets wet around the floor??? Ive had a few subarus that would have a slight leak around there and potentially leak to the back of the head unit... I personally never had it affect my radio but would notice after raining that the floor would be a little damp and now my 96 legacy had a pretty good leak around the top of the windshield and even drips trough the headliner. If you havent pulled the head unit and checked behind there it could be something to check. Greg
×
×
  • Create New...