Pgh_Scoob

I know there is going to be some pressure in the tank but from other vehicles the "whoosh" is about a 1/4sec long or so but at points mine is closer to 1.5sec long which is what made me start thinking into it.... The fuel trims did start to go down after reset but only to like 18% before the light came back on... And yes still the same code The light also lit back up on its own and has remained on without filling up or anything and my fuel mileage isn't as bad as I thought just a bad gauge... For now I have only filled it with 8.5 gallons and went 160 miles so just about 19 MPG which isn't terrible but in just gonna run it this time til it quits and see if anything comes from it

It seems like pressure coming from the tank not vacuum and thought that as well with a clogged EVAP system possibly but everything seems to be operating properly

If it's the same setup as my 03 baja then there are 2 roll pins I believe and one bracket that need to be removed from under the car.... Once you get everything out if the way you can clearly see all if the linkage and it is pretty easy to identify what must be disconnected... But I didn't have to go into the center console at all. Greg

OK so after a few days of paying close attention and talking to some more people what i have noticed that might be a piece to this puzzle... First the light only comes on while the tank is full.. or almost full... When remove my gas cap there is an excessive release of pressure... My one coworker asked me about this and said that excessive pressure normally leads to a clog/blockage of some sore... I checked my filler neck vent tube... I believe is what its called.. because he said they were prone to clog but it was clear and the rubber hoses seems to be in good shape. Also smoke tested my all of my vacuum systems and EVAP along with my brake booster just in case there was a tear in the diaphragm causing a vacuum leak... Just marking things off the list of potential causes. But all of that checked fine.... So my question is.. Are there any know sensors/solenoids/valves that stick shut/stick open while pressurized by a full tank??? and once the tank gets low enough and pressure relieves they are able to close or open...

So the saga continues..... So earlier today I looked at my gas gauge it was almost on E... Plus the car seemed to be idling really rough while in gear.... So I think to myself I am running out of gas... Stopped and filled up but only put in 8.6 gallons yet again.... Then while driving to my shop engine light popped back on... I really have no idea what's going on now...

Yeah immediately what I thought but it all looks good...

ahahah I had to do that with my 96 as well once the upper half of the tank rotted out.... It was rough figuring out how much fuel to put in and not see it running back out. I am afraid of running it low because 2 years ago I went through a jeep phase (glad that out of my system) but I ran out of gas numerous times... It was terrible.. Sometimes the light would come on and I would still have a few gallons but the rest of the time if the light was on I was out of gas and got like half a block and would die.. one time being in the middle of a huge intersection during rush hour traffic... Yeah people were Annoyed with me and using their hands to express themselves... On another note I still have an intermittent no start issue.... I charged my A/C and had my car running but after shutting it off and disconnecting the lines I tried to start it back up but it only cranked.... I went and smacked the access plate for the fuel pump and then it started right up..... Im assuming that my fuel pump is going bad... but I will replace it once it decides to stop working entirely... or until I can find a great deal on one. Greg

Yeah I wouldn't think so either because of how bad the trims were but it could have been a combination of bad plugs and maybe the front o2 was going bad as well... Either way lights out and it hasn't not started on me... Yet I know my 96 impreza I had there was a wacky gauge in it. I would fill it up and the needle would swing from empty to full until about half tank and then would level out until 1/4 tank and just peg itself below E... That was fun getting used to that. So maybe it's the same situation

Rooster2 is correct that you can just fill from the low side of the system but if thats what you did before and it took hours as you say... I would expect some type of blockage either in the orifice tube/H-Block... not sure what kind was/is used but they are both expansion valves.. but either way both of those devices are inline with the system to atomize the refrigerant and allow absorption of heat but can get blocked with debris... especially in an event like compressor failure. On most of the A/C systems I have done... not retrofitting but repairing It is required (to have a warranty) to replace all of the components except evaporator (under the dash) especially the expansion valves... due to blockage and flushing the entire system with A/C flush solvent... Not sure what all had to be changed over in your situation but if those components are original I would start with replacing or if unable to replace try and clean as best as you can. Also if filling from low side takes awhile try starting the car and turning on the A/C this will allow the compressor to help the flow of refrigerant through the system If its working properly the compressor should start to cycle on and off until the system is fully charged and then stay on continuously when A/C is on. Hope this helps Greg

THE LIGHT WENT OUT ON ITS OWN!!!!!! I had a few errands to run today and after my second stop I got back in my car and started it up... Light was off. I even shut my car off to make sure the light was working KOEO... Which it was. I am going to check my Fuel trims tomorrow to verify that everything is working... For now. I also need to wait to see where my fuel mileage is at. I have gone 125 miles and am at a little above quarter tank... which is not good but when I filled it up last I was at just about the same mark and only pumped 8.6 gallons... So after looking up capacity I theoretically was at half a tank... So as long as the car starts with this lower fuel level I will try to get to 200 miles at least and then see how much it actually takes to fill up... I really hope its just an inaccurate gauge.. if so are there any quick/cheap fixes for that??? Thanks Again for all of the help and continued input. Oh and if it was the plugs causing the code what was going on with them???? Just not completing the burn needed and allowing raw fuel into the cat for the downstream to pick up??? but still able to fire.. hence the no misfire codes???

Ok I didnt get a chance to pop them off earlier but most likely going to throw a timing belt on it because it looked nasty... plus the cam seals are leaking. But I will double check the marks before hand... thanks for the tips. So if the timing is on what could this possibly be??? Would a fuel pump potentially be a suspect??? Even though every time Ive tested it there were no signs of failure.. Or are there any reports about the ECU going bad??? Anyway to test?? Greg

Oh I also did a compression test and all readings were 178-182 across all 4. So I'm assuming I don't have an lower internal issue. I also swapped out the plugs while in there and man did they look nasty and the gap was way over but that wouldn't set this code would it. I would suspect misfire codes if anything. Yet again please correct me if my thinking is completely wrong/off

Yes it is a three piece cover... I've only done newer ones with the two piece... So I checked my timing marks and it does look to be off a tooth with setting the crank to 0 on the timing over scale... That's where it should be set to. Right? And I was wondering about running problems misses if it was off as well but if it's jumped ahead a tooth in theory the intake valve would be staying open that little bit longer leaning out the ratio.... Please correct me if I'm wrong

ok great.. I forgot about the hole to see the cam marks... I will definitely give it a look tomorrow. Oh I also just remembered that while checking my scan tool data pids after replacing the front o2 I was getting signals for everything but it would intermittently cut out or all of my info would go to zero..... Not sure if it was just switching from open loop to closed loop and ignoring things or what.... even when in open loop the ECM should only ignore O2 inputs... correct??? And could this also be a possibility for a jumped timing belt? Thanks Again for all of the help... I am at my wits end with this thing and really just want it resolved... The light doesnt even bother me... Its the random no start and terrible fuel mileage that has me concerned. Greg

Except to remove passenger side cover you have to pull the crank pulley... Correct any tine I've done a timing belt that's the only way I've seen them come off unless I'm missing something.

OK because the timing cover tabs are broken... someone has been in there before If it is off, is there some scan tool data I should check for at all or it is just physically removing the cover and checking all of the marks?

Ok so I replaced front o2 with a BOSCH wire in one... After replacing and taking off battery cables for fuel trims to reset and starting up it ran ok for a little while but seemed to have a rougher idle especially when in gear..... After a bit of driving the light came back on!!!!! Im not sure its the same code but figuring it is... but now with the light on it seems to run a little better... What the heck is going on???? I am getting really frustrated... Could the timing have jumped a tooth or if replaced off a tooth and be causing this???

Ok yeah why I ask is because I can get a universal for cheap through my shop... I am also a huge fan if immediate gratification with purchases.... One of my pet peeves, waiting on packages to arrive... Thanks Again... and Hopefully this is taken care of. Greg

Oh and after replacing the o2 do you know how long it should take for the fuel trims to start leveling out? I was checking my LTFT earlier and it was up to 22.3%!!!!!

yeah thats where Im leaning.... I was reading through my diagnostic book from my one instructor who is an absolute genius with Diag on a vehicle, but it is all based around a pico scope... which I dont have access to... Also if I go after the front o2 would you suggest using a wire in one??? I have used them as downstream o2's on subarus and in either spot front or rear on different makes... I checked the maf to be clean and it all looks good and I would assume there would be tons of performance/running issues as well. Are there any good test for the MAF besides using a scope???

Ok cool thanks. Yeah when I did my impreza the struts were from an L forester I believe but were completely shot... When I went to swap mounting plates the shaft just fell into the chamber of the strut. So I definitely had a mushy ride and with doing it again I want decent/better ride comfort. For the brackets I know the arms are the same lengthy but here in PA good luck finding ones where the bolt isn't seized to the inner sleeve of the bushing. So best bet is getting the whole assembly. Just sucks because it costs more....

Light popped back on while driving into work... Scanned it and same code. I just don't want to put more money into it unless it's necessary

Checked my PCV and it was stuck open... Gave it a good cleaning and cleaned the hoses/ports associated with it. So hopefully I am in the clear

Ok great thanks!!!! Yeah because for my outback sport I had to swap over plates due to the holes not aligning and thought that the imprezas and legacies shared the same bolt pattern.... So then I could just do a complete swap of 03+ forester strut assemblies and outback trailing arms?

Well the fun continues..... PO170 fuel trim bank 1 Is that a potential o2 going bad or could a possibly clogged/stuck Pcv be the culprit???