Pgh_Scoob

Hah... I just saw the picture and was thinking what year fozzy you had. But I had no idea that the outbacks would give you that much more clearance and lift. I was under the impression that everyone was using the 03+ forester struts/springs and never even considered another option. And 86bratman you said you were running the forester mounting plate??? Instead of the outback.. did you drill the one hole for the plate and run a spacer??? Greg

OK cool thanks for the input... I was looking into tire and possibilities and do have a General Tire distributor that delivers to my shop so I will definitely look into those sizes... only downside is that then I do have to look for new wheels.... So be it. Oh and what setup are you guys running??? I did the forester struts and spring with rear OBS mounting plates and legacy outback trailing arms and brackets and no sway bars at first but eventually bent "snugged/massaged" into place. I have been reading about people running the Outback struts and forester spring and even one person running SVX front springs I believe.. so what gains are there for the different setups... I probably got at least 2.5" with the forester struts and springs but alignment was way off and the cv axles are pretty stretched. So if I were to maybe run the outback springs with forester struts do I still need to get the trailing arm bracket? or will it be significantly less? Greg

REPLACED BPT= WORKING EGR!!!!!! I am so sorry fairtax for not initially listening to what you said... I dont know why I was so hell bent on the fact that it had been changed already.... none the less thanks again. Johnceggleston thanks for those llinks... Wish I would have come across those earlier... that was my big issue not knowing how to test the BPT. Now I need to give it a few days to see how it goes.. Oh but while checking that the EGR was working and snapping throttle it was moving significantly but while holding the throttle at higher rpms according to AllData the EGR shaft should move and hold... Mine moves and holds momentarily but will go back down after a few moments... Is that correct or is there something else I might be missing... I also went ahead and gave all components another thorough cleaning and scrubbed out the EGR really well. Thanks for all the help yet again.. I will post with new details in a few days. Greg

Ok great thanks... yeah I was reading that it has to be through two consecutive key cycles ( full warm up, full cool down) before it will set the mil.... And for the ECM communication thanks for clarifying.. I was over thinking it... or thinking it was more involved with the ECM.... And for the EGR itself... I did figure it was good and I am going to go back a clean it more and make sure it has good flow.... and like I said when hooking up a vacuum gauge to the EGR port it did hold vacuum... so EGR should = Good Also if the Diaphragm is bad and not allowing vacuum for the EGR itself will that also pick up the PO170 Fuel Trim fault Bank 1 or is that something different... such as a failing o2... and after driving around a little more I have noticed 1) Definitely get a no start after quick drives... went two blocks and forgot something turned around ran inside and when I came back out it was just cranking... after a few tries it did start though.... 2) My fuel mileage might not be as bad as I thought... I still need to keep and eye on it though. Thanks Again, Greg Oh and is there any way to open up the BPT after replacing to try and confirm the diaphragm is torn/split

It was leaking after smoke testing the intake... I smoke tested the intake to search for any apparent vacum leaks but the only place smoke came from was the Egr shaft end going to the intake... There was a fair amount f smoke coming out so thats why my coworker and I figured it was the EGR... When I replaced with the new one we went ahead and smoke tested again to see what would happen... There was still a leak coming from the New EGR but not as much of a leak as the Old one... So I decided to leave it on and see what happened... with in two days the light was back on. I did check all of the vacuum lines... numerous times and the ones That looked questionable and then some I did replace.... I also made sure that all of the tubes that connected my vacuum lines were all free and clear... I am almost positive that I dont have a vacuum leak due to checking and rechecking and testing everything... I guess I am gonna have to go ahead and dish out a few more bucks for the BPT and hope this solves the issue... Also does anyone have any info on how the ECM controls/monitors the EGR??? I did do the proper checks for power and ground but couldnt really find any information pertaining to how it is controlled.

Ok I could really use some help with this please!!!!! This is getting frustrating..... so I am constantly having the stored codes PO400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Malfunction PO170 Fuel Trim Malfunction Bank 1 What I have done so far. Smoke tested Intake to check for apparent leaks... only found leak from EGR... Replaced with New and same result... Checked/Replaced questionable vacuum hoses Checked for flow through all ports and tubes Checked and cleaned brass tube going to intake Cleaned and Ran intake cleaner through ENG. Cleaned EGR and accompanying ports to ensure flow... Code came back Replaced EGR... Code was gone for a few days but came back on... Replaced with original EGR after checking for proper vacuum on diaphragm and ensuring it held. Replaced EGR solenoid... Thinking that it was not clicking allowing back pressure. $90 later light was on next day.. same codes Tried to test the BPT (looks like its been replaced) by applying simulated(shop air) back pressure and hooking up vacuum gauge on the other tubes to pull vacuum with no avail... while blocking off any other ports. Is there supposed to be vacuum held through the BPT.... or is there a way of testing that I missed? There are no procedures for testing individual components that I was able to find... the only one was with eng up to operating temp going from 3500-4000 rpm and looking for EGR valve to move.... Which isnt happening. I am going through gas terribly... I believe but could possibly be the gauge lying... Need to run a little longer to find out... worst comes to worst run out of gas and see how far I get or try and see how long I can go while on E..... Feels like Seinfeld.... I am also getting an intermittent no start as well.... usually happens on short trips like 2-3 miles and quick shut off and restart where it will just crank... I have done fuel pressure tests and everything checked perfectly... but the car wasnt acting up with the no start while checking... not sure if it is a possible fuel pump and unrelated or could be part of the problem..... Also my Long Term Fuel trims are extremely high... makes sense with the fuel trim code.. correct? The LTFT was between 18%-20% and pegged rich on the numerous times of checking... I also was watching my 02s on live stram and they seemed to be reacting correctly... B1S1 pegging righ when snap throttled holding higher RPM's and B1S2(Down Stream) reacting properly Thats all I can think of for now.. I have really been scratching my head on this one but is it most likely the BPT thats causing all this grief? I dont want to and cant afford to just throw parts at this... so could I possibly get away with a junkyard BPT or off a parts car... or is there a high failure rate with these... I read one thread from 05 with a 97 outback and extremely stupid owner who supposedly had this same issue and after all parts thrown at it and system cleaned the code came back on intermittently and that was the end of it.... Im looking to actually fix this so if there is any input I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks, Greg

Ok great thanks! I dont really care about the wheels.. I was just joking about that... I will most likely run plain steelies because they are cheap!!! and since I have been looking around today I did find a few A/T 195/75/14 which Im not sure will fit or not. Another size I came across were 27x8.5x14 which Im sure are too big for not but with the longer struts could they be a possibility. All of the other sizes Ive seen have all been all season tires.. and I dont know anything about their capabilities. One set I was looking at were the kelly charger.. anyone have any input on those?? Greg

yeah the hub to spring perch shaft is longer... correct I just wasnt sure if there was a potential for any type of lift with OBS suspension. So would it be best to hold off and just pick up some cheap tires? Then get the forester suspension and think about larger tires? Would it be best to just get 15" wheels then? Thanks Greg

ok thanks.... I was thinking they were the same but figured I would ask. do you know if the springs are the same also? I have heard something about the FWD springs being a little longer but didnt know about the OBS. Greg

so I just picked up a 96 4eat 2.2l legacy sw.... With some killer 14"s!!!! I have a complete set of struts and springs in my garage from my old 97 outback sport. The rears are practically brand new maybe 3k miles on them but went with the forester suspension lift and now I am wondering if I would gain any lift with doing the OBS struts springs and then probably something like 1" strut spacer... depending if I will get any lift. If not then I would probably just go with the 2" spacer for now and keep an eye out for some forester struts and springs. Also for my tires.. the car sat for a good bit before I got it so all 4 have some flat spots and a good bit of wobble while driving. I have been ding research and looked through the lift tire size combo thread but didnt see any good A/T 14"s, at least none that are still available. So should I try and go with 15" or are there options for the 14"? Thanks Greg

Oh and I did check the hoses not routing though but did spray starter fluid to try and get an idle spike but nothing happened

Yeah I was thinking an o2 sensor or possibly fuel pump but I can hear it priming but haven't gotten a fuel pressure tester on it but want it to be acting up to see what the PSI reading is. And for the o2 I'm assuming it's going to be the front one brcayse that's what does all the fuel metering

So after a quick run to the store I discovered this is a hot not start as well... After sitting for a bit I ran a block down the street started fine leaving and coming back into the shop then few moments later tried to start.... Only cranking put the jump pack on it started but cut out a moment later but started back up looked at live steam and ECT READING GOOD RUNNING IN OPEN LOOP NO o2 activity..... Completely ignored.... Not sure what's going on.. My cam seal us leaking on Driver side head and cam sensor is there correct... Could I be losing that signal didn't see an option to check that live stream. Yet again any insight helps

Hey yes I did that already which checked good and it's not hot restarts but if fuel level gets too low like 1/4 tank.... Supposedly. With just about a 1/4 tank yesterday when trying to drive away it didn't want to start but since filling up it fires right up and all it was doing was cranking and cranking well not like a weak battery but after he put the jump box on it fired right up Also what's the BPT valve??? Is it right next to the EGR if so that had been changed already... Much cleaner than other components under the hood. Oh and for my questioning torque bind.. Driving into work it's seemed good but I did a tranny flush and fill and doing tight turns in the parking lot and on test drive seemed to drive fine.

Ok well as some of you know I was asking about oil leaks on my 96 legacy that I just picked up but after driving for a little while in it I gut a engine light.... Scanned it and this is what I got Po170 lean bank 1 and po400 egr flow fault I believe those were the descriptions but anyways I cleaned out the egr valve and ports going to the intake but was unable to remove the brass tube to try and clean that.... Is it common for that to clog? And I'm assuming that I am getting my lean code from that but any insight is always appreciated The other issue is after paying it wound sit there and crank but not start... The guy said that if it gets low on fuel it won't want to start but he also out his jump pack on it and it fired right up... I did fill it up but only went like 40 miles and it says I used 1/4 tank already so could it just be due to it not being ran extensively and just running rich until it gets it's fuel trims in line ir is there a potential problem. I don't have any fuel smell like a leak and I did have a 96 impreza that had a wacky fuel gauge so could it just be lying and actually almost empty or is it the pump going bad... This is a vague description but I've only had it under a day so this is just off if what I'm seeing. I hoping someone on here had these issues and can point me in the right direction as to what I should be looking at any other info needed please let me know. Thanks Greg

ok... the transmission does shift really smooth and it only seems to be on tight turns is where it binds up but will post what I find today later on.

Cool sounds good also I have been reading about using trans-x... Gotta do more research... but would appreciate any input. Greg

Welp I picked it up today....... After driving and getting to my girlfriends while pulling out of my parking spot with full cut...... Felt like TORQUE BIND!!!!!!! I cant believe I didnt notice it on the test drive. I also didnt do lock to lock turns to test or even think about that. Also after driving a little while longer the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT came on!!!!! Ive never owned a suby with that light on unintentionally. SO now I have to wait until tomorrow so I can scan it at my shop. Now I am trying to not pull my hair out and figure out what to do.... I have driven customers car with sever torque bind and this one doesnt seem that bad... yet. So is there anything I can do to try and fix this issue without having to go into the rear end or is it too late and Im gonna be screwed???? I will probably start a new thread with my woes about this thing. If it is a serious issue Once I scan it I cant at least get pointed in some direction instead of just stressing. I will keep you guys updated and will probably be asking LOTS of questions... The one Im asking myself is why did I get rid of the baja. He ran fantastic but oh well. Greg

yes true hatches can be switched and yes I guess I should have just crouched down and taken a look but I will definitely make sure it is before purchasing. As for the Oil pressure switch yeah those things can get pretty messy... Ive seen quite a few oil pressure switch/sensors go bad on customers cars and puke oil everywhere. I am picking it up tomorrow ( As long as its AWD ) got rid of the baja earlier today to a really cool kid who is gonna love it and will keep an update as to how it goes. Greg

Yes I was scratching my head when reading the article about it but how it was presented it seemed to have some legitimacy. As far as looking like the heads were leaking is strictly because of me looking under the car and seeing a lot of oil all over the place and was putting together a worse case scenario... Once I get it I am going to clean underneath and then watch as it starts to build to see where it is coming from. And yes it is AWD I went back down to take a look and make sure. Right on the hatch has the AWD badge.. So thats good to go. Greg

Do you have a fuel pressure tester???? I had a 99 SUS no start at my shop a few weeks ago... sounded a lot like yours same thing with cranking and want to turnover but not. Did all the initial steps stated earlier. After hooking up the fuel pressure tester and priming the pump it went into spec but while cranking there was not enough pressure being produced by the pump.... So with a coworker while cranking we sprayed starter fluid into the intake... car fired up and tried to run...Put a new fuel pump in and ran a intake cleaner through and down the road it went. Hope this helps, Greg

hey sounds great... exactly what I wanted to hear as long as I keep an eye on it I will eventually get it fixed... and yes I am well aware that gaskets and seals are going to need replaced and I am already planning on doing the tbelt water pump ASAP... the upper rad hose felt ok and the lower one had oil and a little swollen and yes that is on the immediate to do list... but good news is that there are newer plug wires and potentially plugs and how it ran was pretty fantastic. seems like a potential one owner car that was taken care of. I have been test driving quite a few 99 legacy 2.5 that have been around the area and man when I got into this one with the 2.2 it just had so much more pep and really felt like it wanted to run... Thanks Again will update with what happens Greg

HAH I was writing my reply as you posted that... and I think I was just watching and reading about the 2.2 and 2.5 HG issues on their website I believe and talking about bad batteries being a usual suspect with HG failure.. But yet again thanks for the knowledge. If I cold potentially deal with it for the time being without causing any real harm just keeping an eye on the level I might just go for it.. Greg

I love the quick replies on here when you really need them.... but I thought that plate was on the 5 speeds... I remember reading up about that IIRC while researching my bajas oil leak/consumption and doing the clutch but when I had it done the guy said he saw nothing leaking and neither did I when swapping the tranny... so if it is that plate does the tranny or engine gotta come out and how much of an issue is it... I have access to top off oil and no charge... hehehe and could live with it for now if no other damage could occur... And yeah I have plans of doing the valve covers and associated bit but want to get an idea of when to look for. thanks Greg

so I am getting rid of my baja and getting trying to get back into the older 96-99 era subys... love their quirks and characteristics but I just looked at one earlier and it ran great and everything seems golden on it but there is a ton of oil leaking under the car. I know the 2.2's are bullet prof Ive beaten the hell out of quite a few of them but was trying to figure out what could be leaking so excessively. From looking under the car the heads do look wet but I know these dont have the hg issues that plague many "newer" subys out there but wasnt sure if after time they started to wear out for eternal oil leaks... If I do get it I am going to do the tbelt water pump ASAP and check to see if the front seals are leaking but wanted some insight to whether it could be a deeper problem... The car runs great no knocks auto tranny shifts fine and suspension felt tight and the A/C WORKS!!!!! so should I go for it... I have a guy waiting for me to find something so he can buy my baja which could potentially be tonight but I dont want to jump in it without a little insight and advice. Oh and while looking up book value there was the option of FWD or AWD ... I didnt notice any badges but didnt look either.. I just assumed it was AWD... so are the FWD ones commonly found around? Thanks, Greg