RavenTBK

2006 Outback 2.5i is what I've got. Anybody know what the stock exhaust pipe diameter is? I'm attempting to locate flanges for my mufflers...with the idea to redo it all from axle back, but retain the ability to re-bolt my stock gear.

Bump for a simply bad rump roast mouse. Is it optical or have a ball?

http://www.cvaxles.com ^^ Thats who I, and many other members in the old gen forum use. Check them out.

This Saturday, I took the plunge. I purchased a "certified" 06 OBW from my local stealership, with 36k on the clock. This is my first foray into the new gen arena. So far, two days into it, I'm loving it. I plan on keeping it stock and in daily driver mode for awhile, with near future plans involving popping on a set of 15" steelies with some 27x850 baby swampers (as amazingly, they're the same overall diameter as the factory 225/55-17 alloys)... and shortly beyond that a BYB 4" lift kit. Although I think I'll hang out on the lift till after the powertrain warranty expires in abother 30k. heh Some quick pics of todays small excursion into the forest... some mini flex action on the biggest offset I could find without having to go off the trail and risk busting up the paint. http://random.removed.us/miniflex-rt.jpg http://random.removed.us/miniflex-lt.jpg I just hope you new gen guys are as helpful as us old gen folks always were to new recruits. And, hopefully, I wont run into any issues with this new wagon for quite some time that would require assistance. Cheers! .rTBK

What about EJs? Specifically, 06 Outbacks? I'm still kinda dreaming at this point, but WTH right?

http://www.jbweld.com ^^ Thats what it is, and what it looks like. Oh, and duh. Just noticed the original poster is in *.NL. Doubtful they've got it over there, although I'm sure there is something comparable.

I've got a JB Weld radiator repair from 6 years ago still holding good on my Bronco.

As the title states... I'm strongly considering a seemingly screaming deal on a low mileage (<100k) 99OBW at a local dealership (a Honda/Acura place, not a fly by night used car joint). Considering that alone, I am sure they've done some basic looking over to make sure its a semi-decent car to sell, rather than ditch at the dealers auction (like my boss had me do back when I was in the business). I've gotta give them an answer tomorrow sometime.... Just curious from you NewGen OldTimers as to what I should look for/at with regards to inspecting the car? I am aware from my research that 99 2.5's had head gasket issues, and I have familiarized myself as to what to look for there.. but what else should I pay particular attention to?

Heh.. yeah.. looks like the Brat was pulling the mixer, and ended up pulling off his rear end/hitch/everything. Attached are stills if you're too lazy (or bandwidth limited) to view the video. Kinda amusing, considering if that happened, the bed would be curled up in the back too. I think it was a poke at Subaru as mentioned above.

Nice. Its always easier to read when the signs slap the windshield like that, instead of getting mauled and stuck in the undercarriage like they always did with the Brat.

I want to bump this up. Keep this discussion going, as it will be the only thing that keeps me from putting my Brat (brumby) up on the block. I know I can easily handle this, just not sure what parts I need to gather to hook it all up. I'm looking at this from a 100% LP conversion.. now I will keep all my petrol parts on the truck for whenever I decide to fix the carb, to make it into a bi-fuel setup later, but for now, its all LP or nothing. Specifically (part numbers) what was used in existing conversions? Mixer, regulator, style of bottle did you use? Photos? What mixer can bolt onto or between the universally known Weber 32/36? I'd like to retain the Weber as a throttle body, if nothing else for right now. I am planning on using what little money I have available to me to get this done to get the ute back on the road, as all my other "spare cars" are out to pasture. I also plan on taking many pictures of what I do to assist others.... like my large case 100A alternator swap... Possibly turning it into another USRM article. Feed me information! I am now officially accepting this as my personal cause...

^^^ Second that one. Got me a real nice purdy copper unit for the Brat from those people, for $200 cheaper than the local parts house.

Last time I threw the brat up on the logging scale it tipped 1890 with a 1/4 tank.

Sweet! Las time I pimp slapped my Brat like that I broke the strut top hat and the top of the strut backed down from its mount and ended up in the wheel well. Memories... Just gotta get time and money to get that damn Weber tuned for the 9.5:1 CCR motor I've got under the bonnet... I miss my Brat.

I know its been absolutely forever since I've posted, or even set foot in the forums. Crap has been interesting, and the Brat has been parked for, gasp, just short of two years now. I've now come back to a place in my life where I want to drive the ol dog again. The issue for it remaining parked all this time after the engine swap was the Weber. It simply didnt like the hi-po EA81 from CCR I guess. Wouldnt idle. Several disassemblies and cleanings later, still no juice, so she's sat till now. Now that I want to drive the bat again, I want to drive it, not screw with the carby. What other carby options are there for the EA81 that I could bolt down and drive away? (save the Weber, and stock flavors)

^^ Second that. The dealer paperwork on my 79 wagon (before I sold er off) showed a dealer installable option for a snow plow. Not subaru direct, but aftermarket and warrantable (is that a real word?) from the dealership.

I dont have a diagram per se, but if you look into the USRM for my GM alternator swap, theres a couple pics with descriptions that might help you out and be what you're looking for. On the flip side, the big wire BAT is the output terminal that goes to the battery. On the plastic connector, the thick wire is the field sense wire, that energizes the alternator when the ignition is on. The thin wire goes to the idiot light on the dash. Depending on what you're trying to wire it into, you can just as easily hook the BAT stud directly to the battery, and jumper the thick wire from the connector to that stud, leaving the thin wire disconnected/taped off. Hope this helps. .rTBK

Now quite sure if this thread is about trouble finding a cable, or just a post to share a part number, so heres my bit if the former is true.. NAPA has go cables for the ea81. BK6101628 $8.49

Now you all have to remember, internet videos and mp3s are all relative. How far the mic is from the sound source, the projected direction of the sound, quality of hardware, etc, all make a difference in what one "sounds like" in a video/audio clip. I, for one, would not make a decision based on audio clips I find online. starkiller, you're up in Washington. I'm sure theres hundreds of fellow members nearby that you can listen to with your own ears. I have a faux Flowmaster on my Brat, and audio clips I take with my camera make it sound like a 2cycle bike/chainsaw. However, in person, it sounds pretty bad rump roast. Just my two bits. :cool:

Hell, that makes it completely worth it right there. Free food is always a good thing.

Correct. Both rear tires will be locked together (left+right), but not be receiving power from the tranny.

Problem. I had a hard time verifying the 2.3191 measurement in that picture. Since it was sourced from within the board I assumed it to be correct and an error with my math. I had Mr Machine Shop drill based on that image. The "four holes" that were drilled form a smaller bolt circle than that of the rim, thereby making the hub semi-useless for me. (so, check my thread in the WTB section to take pity on me and help!) The 2.3191 is incorrect. 2.38155 is more like it. I had it verified by some math geniuses on another forum. Well, to be honest, I had the geniuses figure it out first with no forward info, then I went after and verified their numbers as accurate. Anywho, that image thats in the archives there needs to be removed. It doesnt quite work for a 6 on 140 bolt pattern...or any other 6 lug pattern for that matter As a temporary thing, I can still use the two good subie lugs that are left to re-mount the tires for long enough to tow it up to my buddy's shop to re-tune the weber, but either way, I need to pick up some more rear hubs to finish the project as I really dont think I'd like the idea of actually driving it on just two studs. Attached are the correct measurements. Phizinza, have your dad verify these, in case us Americans cant count.

+1

I must bow to Matty's 1.3kW display. What are the outputs of the individual lamps? However, I have an ace up my sleeve. I'm pushing 700W of forward illumination WITHOUT adding any extra lights to my Brat.... yet. :-p Closeup Thumb: Now do yall understand why I did that writeup for the 100A GM Alternator?

Psst. R = Radial. Bias ply tyres lack the R in the designation. For a long time I thought it meant rim as well, however learned that isnt the case.