RavenTBK

Nothin wrong with the single mom part.. but that second part just about answers the question now doesnt it. I guess I'll stay in Florida, as theres plenty of "interesting" folks here.

Aaaah..clarification. and I do believe I will stay confused. For some reason, it doesnt take much to do that to me nowadays. Does Jessica have a sister? I'll stop trashing the thread and go play in traffic now.

And yes, I know I edited my post. I suffer from "posting before I think". I suffer from "speaking before I think" as well. I need caffiene.

Now I'm confused. Jessica = SuBrat84 or Jessica's Man = SuBrat84? If its the former, I apologize for my remarks. I suffer from the distorted thinking that every old subie enthusiast is a balding drunken freakboy like these other USMB members. Also, if the former applies, I think I need to move to Tuscon.

oh snap! how could i forget such? hey cardineau: uhm.. most of the items you can buy from like wallyworld or whatever when you get up there. Just bring the basics.. the toolkit, and manual. I'm not sure how the airline would feel about you bringing petroleum products (read: fire!) as carryons. Or since even fingernail clippers and lead (read: bullet, just projectile without case. those TSA bastards made me destroy my kickass keychain!) are outlawed, they'd prolly think you're a terrorist that has a desire to loosen all the bolts and down the airplane. Just bring what you need to get started. Wallyworlds are everywhere, and provide cheap tools/supplies.

Junk it, but send me the distributor. Seriously though.. I'd say fix it if the body is still in decent shape.. part it out if it isnt. No need for yall to be driving around in a rusty deathtrap.

Is that "her" leaning on it? If so, not half bad. Fix it and give it back. Charge her $0. Who knows.. you might end up getting something in return.. But on a serious note, who cares what she looks like. Be the standup guy, fix it for $0 and give it back. Put in a plug that if she ever wants to sell, you'd be into it. Heck, at that point, she just might return the favor by giving it to you. (No.. the car you freaks!)

Well, the interstate is run at speeds above idle, so dont worry about it till you get home. Tires.. get a fullsize spare as mentioned above. And front axles.. inspect them boots. If its torn, get it fixed before you go. Axles with torn boots take one of two routes.. either they fall apart at the moment when you need them (most likely case), or they'll run forever. Get a basic toolkit. Hammer, metric wrenches/sockets, pliers (regular and needlenose), vice grips, regular and phillips screwdrivers, and channel-loks. Oh yeah.. and one of those $9 tire plug kits from wallyworld would come in handy. 1-2 quarts of oil, a gallon of water, a quart of gear oil, and call it a day. Everything else is just details. Nope. Check the fluids regularly, and drive it back easy like. You should be fine. --- When I acquired my Brat, I flew to VA with nothing but the rest of the sale price, and enough money for gas on the way back. If anything broke, I knew I had enough street smarts to survive. Well, the 20 year old, lifted beast made it back down to Florida just fine.. even with several hundred pounds of gear/spare parts in the back. Go easy on your new purchase, and it will take care of you. Oh, as northguy said.. plan your trip to pass through areas of other USMB members (I'm outside Tallahassee/I-10). Either to meet some new friends, or to just have an outlet to go to in case something goes wrong on the trip. Helping hands are always a good thing.

Here's the latest image Gary sent to me... 640x480@87k (less than 20 seconds@56k dialup) http://www.fjeer.us/usmb/BRAT3[2].MOD8.jpg Gary - If you send them all my way, I'll stick them on my server and make more links back so everybody can see those other images that are "postage stamp" sized.

If you like, you can email the pics to me and I'll trim them down and host them for you.

30x9.50x15 Goodyear Wrangler A/Ts on 15x7 Yota 6 lugs 84 Brat 6" lift EA82 rear coilovers Lightly massaged front fenderwells Right now theres only a slight rub at 1/2 turn when the suspension flexes. I'm going to "massage" them some more here soon when I get the money to order up and tack on 31x13.50 TSLs, which should fit nicely in there and only rub about as much as the Goodyears do now. a couple pics

Huh? You mean to say the Justy has more than 10hp? I'd like to see a boating Justy. I think a wagon or Brat would be easier to make float.. but a Justy would be amusing. More power to you!

The noise occurs both moving and stationary. Clutch pedal movement doesnt change it. In gear, under load, it goes away, but returns as I let up on the go pedal. I've adjusted the cable and even cranked the brat up with the cable removed...no change. Playing stethoscope again, I still cannot find anywhere else that its coming from. All I find is the usual tick tick and pop pop of the engine. I dont feel the noise in the selector lever, the clutch pedal, or 4x4 selector. What are the odds that it could be a warped return spring in that pressure place like my buddy says? .The disc and PP are the only two items not replaced when I tore it down the first time. Heh... Miles needs to bring his "traveling mechanic" toolbag and come visit sunny Florida.

Nope. No change. Thats where my ears (and everybody else's ears that hear it) tell me its coming from. I've only got one belt.. crank->waterpump->alternator...no other idlers/tensioners involved. Since it sounds like a belt squeal, thats actually the frst thing I checked. Changing tension on the belt doesnt change it either. Hell, I even took the belt off completely and ran it up for a short bit and still got the noise. It is driving me up a frickin wall.. I guess I'll just have to save up and replace the remaining clutch components.

Do it. You wont be disappointed. They're a biatch to tune, but when they're right, boy they're right. My 32/36DGEV rocks.. if I ever part with my Brat, the Weber stays with me to go onto the next roo.

Oil pressure is great.. 60# at cool idle as per the mechanical gauge. 35-40# at warm idle. Gear oil is fine. 3.5 quarts.. changed a couple months ago. Levels still good on the stick. Oil still appears clean.. no contamination.

Right.. something under the hood has been squealing like a banshee for some time now. The noise seems to be coming from the clutch area. I've already pulled the engine out and replaced the throwout and the pilot bearings with new units. Also did a thorough clutch/PP/flywheel inspection. Noise still exists. The noise sounds like a belt squeal. I've only got one belt, and its not the source. A buddy believes theres a worn out spring in the pressure plate, causing uneven engagement, making the noise. The PP looked fine when I tore it all apart. My mechanic friend also inspected everything aft of the crank seal, and found no glaring problems. What are the odds that this is really the problem? I've never heard of such a thing. The noise goes away in gear under load. (tells me TO/pilot) The noise doesnt change with application of the clutch. (tells me NOT TO/pilot) The noise quiets down on a rev up.. but reappears on the backside of a rev.. as in coming back down. (just confuses me) There seems to be no driveability issue..crap engages just fine. I can light up my allterrains just fine. Its just noisy and embarassing. Cash is tight.. cant really afford a new clutch assy at this point. Will I end up killing myself or blowing something up beyond repair if I continue to drive it with the banshee under the hood?

Well, I'd need to see the mounting ears on the other side to agree its a similar alternator. I've found numerous ones with similar mounting ears cloked at 8 and 2, however the width between the 8'oclock pair is different. The P7157 is the closest to perfect I found. The part link on my writeup goes to a $75 alternator (p7157).. *shrugs* Theres a $35 core.. but whatever. Most likely its the same thing. Only way you'll know is to try it out.

Hmm.. I havent done anything to it, and it automagically healed itself. Idles about as fine as it can with an untuned carb, and revs and cruises nicely. I adjusted the dizzy a bit, and have gotten rid of the ping. And Morgan.. it wasnt a "look at each other like :eek:" thing. It was more of both of us dropping to the shop floor. "Hit the deck!" kind of thing. But I dont get it.. I didnt do a dang thing, and its fine again. One thing thats strange is I've got high vacuum now. I mean perfect, new engine style high vacuum. Remove the oil cap and it sucks and dies. Only downside is my belt squeal noise has returned.. which is why I pulled the engine to check out the clutch/bearings in the first place. Tomorrow I'll retune the carby and start poking around with the stethoscope to find my squeal. *shrugs*

okay.. end hijack. But yes, Morgan hit it on the head. Build it up the way YOU want it to be.. not the way "they" want it. You can create the badassest (yes, i made that word up) rig around, and be accepted and loved by all in your offroad group.. however you could end up hating your creation, as it may not work as well or the same as their rigs do. Build it up however to where you'll enjoy driving it. Okay.. that should cover an hour of my community service sentence.. hell yeah rock on.

Its obvious you've never seen me and my Bronco in the forest. ...and they say you cant fit a fullsize rig down a twotrack atv trail. LIES! The MasterCard commercials dont do it justice.. that look you get from the ATVers that come flying around the curve and see a fullsize rig barreling towards them, dodging side to side to avoid misplaced trees... priceless.

Okay.. I messed up. Yesterday, after I put the engine back into the Brat, I connected up the plug wires backwards with regards to distributor orientation. I had a brainfart and thought that #1 was the front of the dizzy. Anywho, I quickly realized that this wasnt the case. After a few revolutions with the starter, I had an absolute serious backfire...BOOM!... blew both breather lines off the valve covers, and shot the oil dipstick across the shop. I mean this one was bad. Since then, theres been a no idle/lean situation going on. At cruising revs, no problem.. but as the revs drop below 2000, its like crap leans out and wants to stall. Gotta keep feathering the throttle to keep it running. Today, I managed to reconnect all the offending vac lines that were blown off and tore the weber apart to inspect its gaskets and whatnot for possible damage, and I blew through the passages with the air gun just to make sure nothing fresh was blocking a passage way. I also fiddled with the timing a bit just for giggles. I've managed to get it to idle, however rough. The timing is adjusted so far out it was pinging like hell on the testdrive...but it barely idles..which is better than what it did before. My mechanic buddy believes the serious backfire (which he was there to witness) blew an intake gasket..which is causing the lean style non-idle. He's wanting me to tear it down and install a new intake gasket tomorrow. I just wanted to post up for thoughts/opinions on the validity of his prediction. With all the headaches I've experienced over the last several months, I'm beginning to think (again!) that it would just be easier to swap in an EJ. PS: I've also managed to pick up a couple of fresh oil leaks from areas where they didnt exist before... heh.. I blew it up. I'm probably going to have to pull the engine out again, and take the Brat off of DD duty again for the next year while I try to gather up the funding to fix this mess. :-\ Miles needs to take his traveling mechanic self and come on down this way.

Go right ahead. The more people that know about it, the more people will post, which will bring more people in for all the extra info..

Yet another plug for CVO (Constant Velocity of Ocala aka http://www.cvaxles.com). Those guys are the absolute best. I will never buy another CV axle from anywhere else. The proof: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26646 Mr. Kevin and his band of minions know their schiatt. He (Mr. Kevin himself) had my axle rebuilt for me in less than an hour, and it cost me less than one from AutoZone.

As you all know, I regularly complain that being down here in Florida, I dont see too many old Subies on the road, let alone any parts for em at the JYs.. and the few older ones I have found out and about are all of the 2wd auto variety. Well, as my crappy luck would have it, I stumbled on a decent looking hatch yesterday. 83 if I remember right. Its even got the DR4wd tranny. The asking price is only $700, however this is where my crappy luck comes in. All my money is currently tied up in my Honda Accord and in a Nissan Altima that I am planning on selling once I get the paperwork for it. It just ticks me off that most likely this one is gonna slip through my fingers as it will take me more than a few days to get the Altima and/or the Accord sold off to get the money. So goes my life...