RavenTBK

More or less correct. Just pop out one of the axles like you'd do anyways if you're welded in the rear, and run. And yes, you'd be RWD.

Here.. check this. Its easier to copy+paste the address than to type out a reply. Whoops.. isnt that what I just did? Oh well.. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26155

The answer is "C", in place of. Adjust the base rate to match the stock regulator, and run. We use rising rate regulators on our turbo Datsun ZXs.. common swap with okay results. As for if you can use it on your EA82T, that is unknown to me. I'm a pushrod guy.

"Queensland - Sunshine State" Heh.. Florida is the sunshine state. coo pix. Brown water == You have stinky car tomorrow. edit: haha! just noticed your ID. the pun wasnt intended.. but it fits.

^^ What he said.

Thats basically the same thing as the other threads have said. Where my problem lies is I'm lifted 6 inches, and over half of the crank pulley is under the radiator core support. The engine would need to be raised 4" or so to be able to move the engine forward through the radiator area. I dont see this 4" up being possible. I've got about 3.5" or so between the crank pulley and the core support. Is that 3.5" enough to separate the input shaft of the tranny from the clutch assy?

As long as your current grounds are good, I dont see any need for anything additional above stock (unless you're already taxing your system with some serious accessories). At the same time, you can never have too much in the way of grounding. It wouldnt hurt a thing to beef it up a bit if you had the desire to do so.

Okay.. I forgot to check about that serpentine pulley.. I'll do it tomorrow, I swear! I've already written a post-it and stuck it to my bathroom mirror. When I wake up, I'll head into town and research it. I did however get the writeup done. Once the mods finally approve it, you can click here to view it in the USRM.

I've read all about clutch replacements, but none that deal with a lifted rig. Since all I've got is the carb and exhaust system and nothing else, I've fallen into the "pull the engine" camp. I like the idea of only 5 bellshousing bolts, and two motor mounts, then lift! heheh. No crawling underneath to muscle a tranny back into place. However, all the descriptions I've seen deal with unlifted roos. I can visualize how the engine can slide forward with the radiator removed, but in my case, the engine is sitting halfway down below the framerails, and I've only got about 3.5" or so between the crank pulley and the bottom of the core support. Is this enough room to slide it forward enough to get it off the input shaft? What about undoing both the engine and tranny mounts, and pivoting the whole bloody unit upwards just a bit.. but I'm not sure I could get good enough of an angle to put the engine through the radiator area. Heh... I'm believing it would be easier to drop the whole front subframe and lift the body out of the way. My throwout bearing (or something in there) is screaming like a banshee and its ticking me off. So I'm planning on separating the two parts to see whats wrong, and replace the offending part since I dont have the cash for a full on clutch set. So whats the best route for me to take to split the two?

I didnt know the JYs up thataways charged admission. That sucks. I usually like going to the pick n pulls just to walk around and see what new stuff has come in. Thats because they dont know whats what and whats where. Very unorganized operations we have down here. Although, if you look hard enough, you can usually find $2 worth of change in each of the new arrivals.

http://redlineweber.com/html/application_guide/SUBARU.htm ^^ edit: oh, nevermind. i read that as the carb->intake adapter plate. carb->suby air filer hsng.. i dunno bout that one.

The turbo itself does an excellent job of muffling the "raspiness" of an opened exhaust. By design, the more exhaust you can evacuate the more the turbocharger can spool to make more boost more easily. It gets a tiny bit louder, but its not a raspy loud.. its a throaty loud. Plus you get the joy of hearing the turbo whine a bit better. I've removed the mufflers and any other restrictions on all my turbo cars. Everything behind the turbocharger is straight pipe. zzzzeeeeeeeeeeeeewooooosh...

I've read all about clutch replacements, but none that deal with a lifted Ru. Since all I've got is the carb and exhaust system and nothing else, I've fallen into the "pull the engine" camp. I like the idea of only 5 bellshousing bolts, and two motor mounts, then lift! heheh. No crawling underneath to muscle a tranny back into place. However, all the descriptions I've seen deal with unlifted roos. I can visualize how the engine can slide forward with the radiator removed, but in my case, the engine is sitting halfway down below the framerails, and I've only got about 3.5" or so between the crank pulley and the bottom of the core support. Is this enough room to slide it forward enough to get it off the input shaft? What about undoing both the engine and tranny mounts, and pivoting the whole bloody unit upwards just a bit.. but I'm not sure I could get good enough of an angle to put the engine through the radiator area. Heh... I'm believing it would be easier to drop the whole front subframe and lift the body out of the way. My throwout bearing (or something in there) is screaming like a banshee and its ticking me off. So I'm planning on separating the two parts to see whats wrong, and replace the offending part since I dont have the cash for a full on clutch set. So whats the best route for me to take to split the two?

What else would you expect from a country that drives on the wrong side of the road? jk Actually, I saw an old Ford where a guy did the exact same thing. Running a v-belt inside out on a serp pulley. Instead of having a 6-rib serb belt, he had like four v-belts set up like it used to be to take advantage of the extra space on the pulleys. I wish I had my camera with me that day. It was mildly amusing.

NM.. found all that I need. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20844

Yeah it did help a bit. Got a little bit better feel for interchange possibilities.. I can cross out #2 above. I managed to find it while searching for something unreleated. *shrug* The 200mm is considered to be the small clutch. 225mm is the large.

instead of starting a new thread, i've added an additional clutch Q at the end --------------------- Okay.. my brain is dead this morning, and my books & search function cant wake it up. I've got this stupid idea in my head, and cant properly kill it or move it into the "save for later" area without knowing the following three answers. 1. Exactly when was it along the timeline that Subaru went from the small clutch to the larger clutch assy in all models? 83 wasnt it? YES, 83 and up. 2. What is the large clutch assy? 200mm (7 7/8) right? NO, 225MM is the large clutch. 3. Are there any real differences between 2wd and 4wd clutch assys as compared within the same MY? 4. (optional..just so I can think without actually tearing it apart to see) Ignoring possible swaps, what size clutch assy should I have in my 84 Brat? 225mm is what should be there.

Tom - whereabouts "down south" are you moving to?

Yes, I know its dirty. Its been raining for two days and the mudpuddles and holes are irresistible.

Hmm.. I could've sworn that I replied to my own thread with what I had been doing. Guess I didnt. Anywho, heres whats happened: I prolly posted this earlier in the thread, but here it is again. I got pissed at all the excess vacuum lines running everywhere with plugged ends. I completed the rest of the emissions removal. Anything and everything went out onto the ground. I've got a carb, a dizzy, a block, and a tailpipe. Russ: when I removed the remaining emissions junk, I fingered the EGR valve, and it made no difference. New to teh fresh stuff: I gave up on trying to figure it out in my driveway, and so I tossed it up on the trailer and took it up to my friendly family mechanic. He usually doesnt charge me a dime if I do all the work. He tells me what to do to get to (X) and I go do it. Anywho, that afternoon I brought it up there, I pulled the carb back off the Ru for the 3millionth time, disassembled it down as far as I felt comfortable doing, then handed it over. David broke out a screwdriver, and pulled even more parts off that I didnt think to do. After he finished, he handed me the bare carb body, a new can of carb cleaner, and pointed to the yard. I shot through every opening.. the same old ones I shot before, and through all the new holes that appeared after David removed all the other things. I found several large chunks of crap which came out from under the power valve in the bottom of the bowl. There were several others that came ouf of other orifices. I never really realized exactly how much is tied into the idle circuit. I shot out the entire can of cleaner. I then handed the body back to David, and he shot out the passages with compressed air. He mentioned to me that my gaskets are still okay, but arent "good" and it wouldnt hurt to go ahead and buy a rebuild kit. I went to the parts house and put in an order for the rebuild kid (which was a fiasco meant for another thread). Afterwhich, I ran up the road for lunch, when I returned, David was out on a service call. So I went home. Over the last several days, David has had an absolute ton of new work come into the shop, so I've sat on the side. Only downside to being "free work". Well today, we both sat down and put the carb back together with the rebuild kit. Actually, I was just there to watch. About 20 minutes later, the finished carb was handed back to me to go install. I had that bugger back on there and right within 10 minutes. David came out and set the idle, and lean mixture, and hot damn.. the thing idles like its brand new. Apparently there was some crud built up in the passages I couldnt get to before.. and the jolt freed it up to clog the powervalve and associated passages. I'm going to pick it up tomorrow. Hopefully its tuned up right, and my MPG will go up instead of down from its previously awesome 26 or so. David has been screwing with Webers for years, and I think its gonna be good. Will post up findings once I run a tank through it.

I'm about 90% done with the writeup for this. Been working on it in my "i'm too bored to do anything else" time. Just I dont get that bored that often. I'm guessing I'll move it up the priority list and crank it out a bit faster. Ideally, you'd want to run a large gauge wire straight to the hot side of the battery. Unless you already have enough accessories that were taxing the stock harness, you can just as easily run it through the stock harness without major issue. Which is exactly what I continue to do. I plan on leavin it on the stock harness for as long as I can just to see what its limits are. I've been testing the limits of other devices already. I've melted two 30A relays while testing my 700watt headlights. I dont like to follow pre-set rules. I like to find my own limits. Even if you decide to install a large gauge straight to the battery, you can just tape off the stock connector and call it a day. The low draw of the current accssories can continue to pull from where its pulled from all along, as its draw will not increase just cause you've got a larger alternator on there. Just remember that any new, high draw accessories will need to be fed straight from the hot side. Cheers. ps by the way, I'll run up and try to find out about fitting a 6 rib serpentine pulley sometime today. I've got 5 gadzillion things catching fire and blowing up all at once right now. The day is quickly going down the toilet.

Big alternators, look here: »Got Amps? GM Alternators! (I'm about 90% done with a writeup.. been working on it in my free "I'm too bored to do anything else" time) Other than that.. the only performance go fast parts for your Subaru that I know of would be to put it up on a trailer and tow it everywhere with a corvette.

Although this only has four posts so far.. the four I've read make me glad I live in Flarda.

I have no cure all solutions to provide, but I do have a tidbit that could prove useful. The headlamps are ground switched units, not positive switched like other cars are. The switch for the brake level warning lamp is positive switched if I remember right. So, the brake level has ground at all times at the connector, and +12v is used to trip the lamp on the dash. Plugging in the connector is providing the ground signal to the headlights. So I'd look somewhere for some chafed wires or something thats allowing the ground signal across. HtH..

I think I should post up the sources I had for my E-codes and part numbers.. the harness was an off the shelf style upgrade harness with some re-routing between the relays to deal with the quirky Subaru ground switching setup. The lamps themselves are glass housings with polished aluminum reflectors. Best upgrade I have ever done to any of my fleet. Anywho, the GF just called and has requested that I rush over there to "see her". Gee.. "see her" or post up boring headlight facts? I'll post later!