RavenTBK

Ah grasshopper, the grass is not always greener... Yes it would be different.. a bit too different IMO. Looks like you've got a damn zit growing in the middle of your headlight. Can I pop it? I see they list them as having glass lenses. Whats the housing made of? Most likely its plastic, being from china and all. The plastic housing would not allow you to run any higher wattage bulbs. If you did, you'd melt the housing. Either way, $50/ea is just a bit too rich for my blood. I dunno. If you've got a 2 light DL setup, they'd swap in fine if you really want to do it. If you really want some projector lamps.. check these out: http://www.rallylights.com/hella/90mm_modules.asp I've been considering getting a set of those to swap into my Bronco to get rid of the stupid big plastic aerodynamic lights. I'd have to fab it all up, including a cover to fill in the large gap that would be left around the modules, but I think it would look wicked with four pod lights instead of the huge volvo-esque plastic housings. Think 96ish Acura Integra lights..thats what they look like installed.

Because not all of us have the brass kahunas to do some of the crazy schitt he does.

Thats an awful broad question. The answer is yes, I myself know of three people that have.

The projector wannabe lights replace H6054 lights. The 6054 is used in the DL, 2 light models. Only those with two, 200mm lamps. Either way, they suck. A poor excuse for a headlamp.. especially at $50 each! Hell, the 490 watts I have running out of my headlamps now cost me less than $85. That was for a set of FOUR E-Code lamps (H4 hi/low and H1 highs), and customized relay harness. Please....

I lack a camcorder to create my own videos, but I do have an overabundance of time to produce videos if I get raw footage. I could be another helping hand to create compilation DVDs with music and whatnot. *shrug* Free time is the one thing I do have. It takes money to be able to wrench on the Ru. Money for parts, and money for tools. But I'm already set when it comes to the computer power, the time, and necessary devices to semi-mass produce DVDs and VHS cassettes. I dont blame Eric for not wanting to do such a thing, as I'd feel the same way about my personal vids..not wanting to share (depend on another to produce) and such. I dunno...

There was a GL wagon that was for sale by an old timer up the road that had 335k on the ticker. Left a softball sized puddle of oil when left out overnight, but ran like a champ. Had like 250k on the clutch. I know my Datsun 280ZX has 225k on her, and my Bronco has 362k on the frame. (1200 on the engine.. yes its on its fourth)

Down here in Flarda I dont have the joy of 15 PAP yards with Subies of all years littering the grounds. Theres a single EA81 2wd wagon that I know of in one yard. Other than that, the Loyale and early Legacy's are all that exist. Thats kinda why I asked the question. I feel these prices are crazy stupid. I just dont have many other options available to me. Oh yeah.. $90 is what I was quoted today for 4x rear disc assembly, although its unlikely I could find a suitable set. I've read numerous threads of people getting them for <$50 or so. I just didnt know if these are actually near the norm, or I'm right in my assumption that the yard owners really are pricks. I know they usually are, which is why I ask for prices before I start looking/pulling parts off. Saves me some time.

Well, since folks are posting their setup.. here is whats in my DGEV for comparison: 140 pri 140 sec mains 170 pri 160 sec correctors 50/50 idle Nets an average of 26mpg or so if I am light on the pedal. This is on the lifted brat with 30" tyres. My elevation is 8 feet MSL. No, its not a typo. 8 feet. Cheers.

then it wasnt tied down correctly. its that simple.

I'm just curious as to what the JYs up in the great NW charge for random parts. Around here I think the JYs are smoking antifreeze or something as rates for Subaru parts is out of this world. $90 driveshaft, 4wd ea82 $120 rear diff assy (pumpkin only) ea82 $650 EJ22 engine, untested, unknown no harness. $40 EA alternator $25 per axle per side Its like gah. Its bad enough the only Subies in the junkyards here are Loyales and up, but the prices are just plain stupid. I've been wanting to pick up a spare rear end.. so I can weld it up for teh Brat, but there is no way I will pay $120 for one. Anybody wanna tell me how cheap the common parts are up thataways so I dont feel like I'm stupid for passing these prices up?

CAUSE LOYALES SUCK! heheh.. just kidding.

Heh.. I'm gonna have to re-watch the movie. All I can remember is the Harrier. :/

<-- is the towman. I've asked similar questions in the past, and I dont blame the board for telling me "No, just dont do it" in every case. I ended up hitting several dealerships and speaking with the lead mechanics for real information on this subject. All in all, its not good regardless, but in my case, it had to be done now and then, so I had to know what are the real limits. For the latter AWD designs (OB, WRX, IMP): Manual - 2 up 2 dn = destruction of the center lsd if pulled any more than 1/2 mi or so.. or over 15mph. tranny can be in any gear and/or neutral. Auto - 2 up 2dn = destruction of the center diff if pulled any more than 4 miles, or at over 35mph. inserting FWD fuse extends the range to 6mi but speed requirements are the same. Either way, dont do 2up if you dont have to. When I finally had to tow that bastard in the blue WRX for parking on the grass again, it helped to know a soft "limit" to where I wouldnt screw anything up. If you pull it 2up, you'll definately feel the drag of the center section on your towing vehicle. You can ignore it, but dont ignore it if you know what I mean.

Oh yeah, a suggestion: be sure you write down the color codes of the wires that you keep. That would come in handy, and make for faster and easier stripping from the harness.

Josh - You need to find a hosting provider. Once you have them uploaded to a web host, you just link to them; either by typing in the http:// address as text, or place them inline in your posting by using . Or, if you like, you can email them to me, and I'll crop, link, and host them all for you on one of my servers. The info you've posted is great.. exactly the kind I'm looking for. I'm just out to find out exactly how much wiring work is necessary to make the engine run. Once I get that info down, I'm sure I could get the swap done and running quite fast.

Okay. Sure.

After re-reading this several times, I continue to get the feeling that this thought was meant for an existing thread, rather than a new one. It just seems incomplete. :/ However, I lack an ADS on my Weber, and have no issues with run-on. A simple timing bump fixed it when it first reared its ugly head.

Well, once I finally complete the rebuilding and refitting of the Weber, the time will come very soon thereafter for a clutch job, as the throwout bearing is screaming like a banshee. Yesterday, I was under the Brat, for reasons I cannot recall, and noticed the underside of the valve covers were beginning to collect oil.. not dripping, but just collecting on the outside. So, my future clutch job is going to turn into a reseal/clutch combo. Too bad I cant get a salad instead of fries. Does anybody have part numbers handy for any and all of the common components that are replaced in a reseal job? Are these something thats still kept up by SOA (which I'd prefer as I'd know they'd last), or am I at the mercy of the chain stores or the extremely slim chance of NOS at the dealer? I'm thinking new valve cover gaskets, and front/rear crank seals would do me just fine. Thoughts?

Fram has always been on the expensive side of things for me. I'm a cheap bastard.. currently I've got one of the Advance Auto Tough Grip filters on the Ru, the big red one thats "covered with sandpaper". On the box it said it was made by Wix, so I guess I'm still safe. Either way, I still change on a regular basis, so I guess I'll live regardless.

Here's some of the common designations you'll see.. The numbers designate the size of the barrel. 32 pri/36mm secondary. In reality, in the weber 32/36, the venturi's are 26/27mm respectively. DGEV - dg series, electric choke, variable DGAV - dg series, water choke, variable DFAV/DFEV, same as above, but df series, same as DG, but throttle plates are mirrored left to right. DF series are common in volkswagen swaps.. throttle on the opposite side. DGES/DGAS, same as above, but synchronous. as both barrels open at the same time, as opposed to the variable above, which opens primary first, then the secondary begins to open at ~66% throttle application. The DGxS models are commonly found in the 38/38mm variety. A common 32/36 DGEV is what you'd want to look for. The adapter plate makes things interesting, as its just one more thing to buy, but in the end, the Weber is the best option overall when put up head to head against the hicrappy or carter carbs. Rebuild kits run around $65 or so.. I know, I just bought one for my own Weber. Cheers.

Thats not quite what I was looking for. I'm more curious about physically making the engine run....the absolute basics of the swap. In my case, the tach is no biggie, as I know that will need to be pulled from my coil and tied into the EJ ecu. Coolant is no biggie, as I already knew those were compatible earlier in this thread. Oil pressure and other associated gauges are mechanical. However, my goal is to learn about the absolute basics of the swap which would apply to everyone. I already know I've got it easy with not having all the extra crap to hook up. Without going into making all the idiot lights and such light up correctly on an EA82, which I'm sure would be an absolute pain, how much wire splicing and "voodoo magic" is required to just make the engine run? From what I understand from my readings, the swap is more or less move the harness from the donor, plug in the injectors and sensors, and the end of said "front harness" plugs into the ECU, which needs only switched +12v to allow the engine to run.. correct?

EA harness? I've removed all such items. The only thing that remains is the +12v to the dash components. The only thing I'd probably need is a signal for the tach, as currently it comes off the coil, and the EJ uses sparkpacks. That and to tie in the fuel pump controls. I cannot think of anything else I'd have to splice into. Maybe wire up a tiny LED on the dash to use as an OBD1 MIL.. Other than that, I've got a Weber, and a straight pipe. No steenkin harness here. Heh.. is the front harness more or less one piece? I just need to get the inectors and spark plugs firing right, and +12v to the ECU. Since I've got everything electronic removed, I think I'd have the swap easy - just plug in engine sensors and injectors and go. However, if I need to splice together three harnesses from the EJ body to make one harness just to run the engine.. *shudders at that thought*

I partially take back the "not loud enough" thing I said before. 99db is pretty dern loud, and at 22ft it would take some tuned pipes to make it, but I guess it could be possible on just straight headers.. if they're directed out the sides of the Ru. I'd believe that if they dumped underneath, and you werent lifted too much, the underbody and the ground itself would do a knockout job of muffling the sound below 99db @22ft...unless its measured on pavement. I'm still curious about the "spark arrestor" deal though..

Heh, well, I know of several federally approved spark arrestor muffler brands.. for ATVs. I have never seen nor heard of an actual car muffler being labelled as a federally approved spark arrestor device. Heh.. just slap one of those $10 discount auto muffs on there and see what the gestapo, uhm er, inspectors say about it. Worst they could say is no, at which point you can find out from the source what is a good muff to dive into.. er uhm.. put on your Ru.

Excellent! Even if its not a complete writeup, an outline is better than none. I'm still curious as to the extent of the wiring nonsense. Is the "front harness" more or less plug and play, mounting the ECU under the hood, or is there a lot of cutting and splicing involved? I can really get into a difficult but straight forward swap, but cannot handle (in my own yard) a difficult and tedious swap. The bits about the temp sender and oil sender are golden. I can now write off those two issues from my personal list. I've been reading so many threads with info scattered about.. my eyes, head, and even my A.D.D. hurts. :-\ Awesome to see it gathered together in one spot.