RavenTBK

Actually, those rules are intended to be applied to motocycles and ATVs that usually lack mufflers and are just straight pipes. In the subie, you've got a cat, and a muffler too. You are right in your assumption that almost any muffler would meet those requirements. In addition, I doubt that the Sube makes enough power to exceed 99db at 22 feet, even with open headers. :/ With the catalyst and any generic muffler on there, I doubt you could have ANY issues with passing that portion of the inspection. I've got a Flowmaster 40 on the Brat. Still allows the flow, gives it a throaty sound.. specially when the secondary openes up.. and doesnt allow me to spit fireballs (even though I really want to).

Dont limit your wheel selection to just pugs. Going Toyota 6 lug will give you a much larger selection of wheels and tyres too. Easy to do, tough to beat. http://www.subarubrat.com/6lugconv.htm edit: duh. just noticed you've already done such in your sig. heh.. but others can still benefit. nobody reads stickies anyways.. gotta beat the info into their heads.

I thought of that same thing when I first read this thread. It can be easily solved by putting a couple of tack welds onto one stub to hold it still. Voila! Instant "locker". Maybe a lil piece of steel or something set up at an angle from the top of the stub down to the case. Something that can easily be removed and wouldnt fark up the seals there at the stub. It wouldnt take all that much pressure/strength to lock down one side..

Damn.. and thats a good idea too. Where his writeup?

the DFV series is found primarily on volkswagens. Not just french cars.

Well, each vehicle is different. They all respond differently to different parts. Seems as though the consensus is NGKs in the Subies.. although some cars actually run good on others. For the most part, its trial and error. If your junk runs good on the Bosch parts, rock on. My junk falls in line with the others, preferring NGKs. I guess we shouldnt say we're all opposed to them, its just most of us have tried, and failed. As I just said, each car has its own quirks. Embrace them, and run with it.

Why wouldnt it be?

NGK resistor plugs are the only way to run. Be it standard plugs, or the V Power plug.. the Subie loves em. Hell, dont tell anyone, but I even run NGK's in my Bronco.

Go to their main site, and where it says "Search by Summit Part number" on the left hand side of the page, type in USW-70-5060 and hit enter. Those are the wheels that SubaruBrat references on his webpage. :cool: I'm considering getting a set myself, so that when I trade out my 30x950 A/Ts on the 15x6 toy rims, I can fit a set of 31x1350 TSL/SX swampers without them balooning too much. My only fear is how much I'd have to cut/bang in to still be able to turn. :-\ The only way for me to go w i d e with the tyres is to go up another inch. I rub at half turn when I flex now as it is. I can only imagine what it will require with rims/tyres that wide, and with that much backspacing.. I might have to stack on a set of 2" lift blocks all the way around.

Well, since it still has an EA81 pushrod motor, I'd still lean towards the pushrod specs. From all I've read, an EA81 is an EA81, regardless of which year it was used in what country. Only difference in specs I can think of would be if you've got an 81 with big valves (hydraulic lifters). My stats list 72hp/90ftlbs as the specs for my 84 Brat, which, again from all I've read, is when Subaru switched over to the big valves. I'd run with numbers right along those lines and you should be on target.

Hmm.. to expand my knowledge of the subject, as I read this, I'm getting the feeling that with the exception of the vacuum operated diff lock, the FT D/R RX tranny is exactly the same as the PT D/R in the other EA models correct? The RX is a very elusive breed down in these parts, and I havent found one that I can peek up its skirt just yet. Does it have an open locking center diff, or is it a locking clutch type LSD? I know its not really on topic per se.. but it doe have to do with the swap/differences between the two trannies. Please enlighten me.

Heh.. Morgan's idea is the inverse.. using an old hub as a jig to be able to drill through the wheel. What you've done is also a great idea for those that prefer to drill hubs instead of wheels. Either way, theres some excellent information being gathered in this thread.

You'd only see extra holes if you decided to drill through the rim to make it mount of the Subie 4lug pattern. Otherwise, if you do the hubs instead of the rim, it will look like it came from the factory with 6 lugs. See the attachments. The six lugs silver wheel is mine (1st pic), and the white wheel is McBrat's Chevy 5 lug wheels redrilled for the 4 lug Subie pattern (2nd pic).

I'll give ya $2 for it.. as is...not starting and all.

What about gas money? I've got 52 cents in my pocket and a six pack of store brand mac and cheese to last me till next wednesday. Sux.

Portland. Oh yeah.. lemme fire up my Star Trek official transporter device. Hehe.. I do believe I'm just gonna break down and take it up to one of the shops I used to frequent. He used to do a lot of work on carbs.. maybe I can get a rebuild and tuning done on the cheap. This mess is beyond me.

I didnt really notice any. I turned it one way, it stumbled. Other way, it stumbled. Just to be sure, someone point out to me which screw is the idle mixture adjustment? I'd feel like a ******* if I was twisting the wrong screw.

Yeah I have seen that site. Thats what got me started with the troubleshooting awhile back. As for the idle set screw above, I'm referring to the idle set screw, not the idle mixture screw.

Thats what makes this so damn confusing. Its pinging like its lean, but not atomizing like its rich. Attacking one problem at a time, the bowl level sits correctly at what the floats are set to.. either high, or low. So I know the needle/seat is fine (disassembled and inspected too), and the bowl isnt overfilling or underfilling. I'm running 140 mains, and 170pri/160sec air correctors. This combination worked fine before and yielded ~26mpg on a semi-regular basis. :shrug:

Yep. Covered that last thread before I could get it running. I even did it again today. I've set it high, and low, and theres no change. :shrug:

Heh.. then you can send me your gas money. I like the rain!

Just regular Toy 6 lugs.. 15x6, 15x7 etc etc etc.. whatever you find. The lug pattern is the same as long as it has 6 holes. Look for rims like in the pic below.. they're the most common. 15x6. Just pop the two lugs out, mount the rim to te hub with the two aligned studs, then use nail polish/grease pencil to mark the four other holes. Just drill into the hub till theres no paint/pencil left.

Its really not looking like I'll make it down. The cash to make the trip down this week just hasnt materialized like I thought it would. It sucks too.. cause I wanna attend this meet more than I do the Bronco group.

I've got it running a whole lot better now that I tore open all the remaining emissions components and removed them. It makes sense that the remianing emissions components didnt like operating without all their buddies, so they acted out. So I killed em all! 100% emissions free. Now, moving on.. Okay.. this is a bit complex, so please bear with me. The symptoms that the Brat is exhibiting somewhat contridict themselves, and has me, my father, and several VW friends confused. Maybe it will make sense to one of you Weber heads out there. I've read that running lean is one of many possible sources that can cause the "rattle can" pinging. This is accepted as a fact. Keep this fact in mind as you read on. Now, its been proposed that my atomization issues are due to running excessively rich.. an idea that I standby as being possibly true. I say possibly true as theres no other explanation for it since theres nothing clogged anywhere. Here's the confusing part. It idles, rough. Only does so with the idle set screw all the way in. Moving your hand over the carb inlet (not blocking, but just "in the way") causes the idle to rise, and smooth out. Not rise and rev then bog, but simply rise to the level of the set screw and smooth out. This tells me that the carb is running excessively lean (which explains the pings above). BUT, the atomization issues say its overpressurized and running rich. HOWEVER, the carb bowl is vented to the atmosphere, and if it was "pressurized" with too much fuel in the bowl, fuel would rise up and dump out of the bowl vent. This fact tells me its not overpressurized. Fuel pressure at the carb inlet is 1.5psi, with spikes to 2psi when the needle closes. It cant be lean and rich at the same time. All logic says YES to both answers. -- Now here's a third option, which I dont believe should apply as this isnt an EFI vehicle. In EFI systems, if you dont have enough fuel pressure, the fuel wont atomize out of the injectors properly, and just drip.. rather similar to what it looks like in my carb now. This idea would tell me that its NOT getting enough fuel to build up behind the emusion tubes to atomize properly. Not enough fuel means lean, which kinda jives with the possibility above The only holdback is this ISNT an EFI system.. so that logic (to me) doesnt hold water. I'm caught in a catch 22 here. Anybody have any more thoughts? Or, am I just over analyzing this?