RavenTBK

3?

I'm still waiting on some more documentation about the swap.. primarily the wiring issues. Whens John or Austin gonna chime in with a writeup?

I emailed John a few days ago myself.. no reply here yet either.

They are. Thats just how much they said they wanted for one when I came through the office on my way out into the yard.

The history to me is unknown. It was on the Brat when I bought it from Mike D up in VA. The one thing I do know is that it looked/sounded right when I purchased a new air filter. I never needed to look again till it started acting up. Thats when I noticed the atomization issue.. I thought it was related to my short flight I took over that whoop. Hell.. it still could be.

After fiddling with about 15 different things, I've managed to get it to at least idle on its own for the most part. It coughs at around 11-1200 or so, but it will stay running for awhile without any user intervention. I think what did it is I stuck my finger behind and moved the EGR diaphragm a few times when the engine was off. Since its just still bolted in place and not hooked up at all, I didnt think to even check it, although rallyruss told me to check it in the old thread. Heh.. its the last part of the emissions system that hasnt been removed and blocked off. I figured since it wasnt hooked up, it would never open, and could never get anything caught in it. Amusing. Then again, it could've been a mix of that and the dozen or so other things I did under the hood today. The world may never know. Okay.. so now it idles, somewhat. Backing out the idle screw a bit to lower it down from the 11-1200 it coughs to stay alive at, it immediately stalls at 1000rpm. Since its more or less drivabale, I've run up to the parts store and ran half a can of seafoam through the carb throat, and the remaining half into the fuel tank. I only had 6 gals or so in it, so I used the 1oz:1gal average on the back of the can. Another interesting thing its doing is when I'm in decel mode in gear, it bucks and backfires through the carb. Accelerating, it runs like a scalded cat again.. even with the flat spots in the carb. I cant quite pick it out over the exhaust note, but I think I'm hearing the common "marbles in a tin can" noise.. pinging right? OTOH, I might just be hearing things. Could this and the decel backfiring be related? The timing hasnt been moved at all during this whole ordeal.. but who knows. At least it runs. Where should I go from here? ..other than to a competent repair shop for a complete tuneup? (cause there arent any Subie shops here.. only one VW shop)

Not around here. I've found a grand total of three Loyales in the JYs within the last 6 months. Two were involved in fires, and the third was in the output pile from the crusher. I'm without emissions controls,so everything has been removed and plugged. Re-verified all plugs still in place this afternoon. Only two vacuum sources still exist.. the vac advance for the dizzy, and the brake booster. Its not idling high, just not idling at all. If a vac leak is really the cause, I need to pull the engine and look for a softball sized hole somewhere.

I figured I'd start again, but attack this from a different perspective.. Okay.. I've taken the Weber apart so many times, I feel I could rebuild one in my sleep. Today I had everything pulled from the top of the engine all the way down to the intake manifold. I inspected all the parts and connections and then put it back together. When it was time to crank it up, it ran nicely through the fast idle sequence, which has been set high at near 2500rpm on purpose. Once the choke opened up, it stumbles below 1500 revs, and refuses to idle period. Above 1500, it revs fine, and drives with all the power its always had. You release the go pedal, and when the revs fall below 1500, it stumbles then dies. Even with the idle screw turned all the way in, it wont run on its own. The new plugs I put in a couple days ago still look new.. no burning indicating lean-ness, and no excess amounts of carbon indicating rich. :-\ With all the times I've had the Weber apart, tweaking settings, I'm just about to rule it out even though I dont like how the fuel isnt atomizing properly in the venturi. Is there any documented cases where an ignition component fails that could cause these symptoms? Like something that could cause the dizzy not telling the coil to fire below 1500? Unlike you guys up in the great PNW, I dont have access to scores of Subies in the junkyards that I can swap various parts from to eventually find the culprit. I can only troubleshoot, and then try to locate a replacement for the failed part. :/ Or, on the third hand, should I just give up and drop the EA81 in favor for a junkyard EJ22? I have a feeling that troubleshooting the EFI would be just a whole other can of worms though.

Yep. Unfortunately Subaru didnt quite catch on down here in Flarda. So theres not that much in the way of options for me to pull from. What makes it worse, is the JY I spotted this at, has a nasty habit of overcharging for everything, becase they know theres only one other place people can go hunting in town. Heh.. when looking for old gen parts, I'm basically out of luck..cause first off, there wasnt many here to begin with, and secondly, what was here has already been crushed because nobody was picking parts off them because of #1 above. :-\ This JY in particular, just to illustrate their tendency to overcharge.. $5 for a slotted alternator adjustment bracket off a trashed toyota (had to pay it cause I couldnt find any anywhere else).. $20 for a hood emblem off a Datsun Z.. and heres the kicker: $300 for a rear diff (pumpkin) off an EA82 wagon (which I didnt pay cause well.. its obvious ) In about a week or so, once I become more comfortable with the idea of the swap and the work involved, I'll take a battery up there and try to crank it up. If they'll accept my trade for the running and driving Altima, I think I'll still be coming out ahead as I've only got $200 in the Altima in exchange for a whole donor car for the swap. Thanks guys for your assistance.

I already know they dont have the key, but I can disassemble the column and pull the switch off the back of the key cylinder and use my trusty screwdriver to turn it. The initial price that was handed to me was $525.. but I'm gonna try to hog trade them a running/driving Nissan Altima for the complete Leg... all depending on if I continue on with the swap plans.

I'm seriously considering doing an EA22 swap into my EA81 Brat. Searching for donors, I ran across a 2wd 1990 Legacy sedan in my favourite PAP. It wasnt wrecked, so I know that something major has died. The engine oil looks used, but in good condition, with no foam or bubbles underneath the oil fil cap. Radiator coolant looked in great condition, with no oil globs visible down the filler neck. Engine compartment is clean overall, looks like the car was well taken care of. Tranny dipstick reveals a nasty coloured fluid, which smelled like burnt charcoal. So I'm pretty confident that the tranny went belly up, which is why the legacy ended up in the JY. Other than dropping in a gas can full of gas into the tank, dropping a battery into the tray and trying to crank it up (it looks like it would crank and drive away..if I didnt know about the tranny).. are there any other simple checks I can do to verify the engine is in decent condition before I try to weasel a deal with the PAP for the whole car? Anything EJ specific that I should look at?

140 > 110. I think the answer is quite clear. I'm in the planning stages of a 2.2 swap right now. Just decided on it today as a matter of fact. Found my donor.. just gotta read up on everything about how it goes together before I buy anything.

Unscrew the drainplug. Whatever tiny tiny bit of dino oil is left will be flushed out next time you change your synthetic. It wont hurt anything.

I'm gonna continue to troubleshoot, so hopefully something will break soon. Hmm.. if I can source the money for the difference in fuel, I could bring down the Bronco, so I could still have 4wd if we do go out afterwards. My Honda is very capable, but not fun. I've got a meet with the Bronco guys on the 29th in central Alabama. Heh.. I'm trying to juggle dollars when all I've got are dimes.

Well, unless some new stuff comes about, its not looking like I'll make it. I cant for the life of me figure out WTF is wrong with the brat. It kinda defeats the purpose of a Subaru meet if I show up in a Honda.

Okay.. I'm at a loss again. Today I pulled the carb back off the engine again, and took it up to my buddys shop. I popped the top, removed the jets, removed the air correctors and used a nifty rubber tipped air blow thingie and blew through the passages. I blew both emulsion tubes out, and inspected them. Completely clean. Pretty much, I was an air gun bandit.. shooting and blowing through the passages at all oddball angles. Nothing came out that I could see. I got home and put it all back together, same deal. Ticks me off too. This time, being the 15th time I've pulled it apart, I somehow lost the stupid c-clip that holds the choke linkage together. Apparently its aluminum, and so my sweeps with the magnet turned up nothing. Either that, or it flew through a brick wall somehow. I'm gonna try once more and bend down the floats.. to see if I can keep the bowl near empty to see if that makes any possible difference.

But he's in Cheyenne. Theres no traffic in Cheyenne. Just rocks, barbed wire, and last years snow that hasnt melted and is still blowing around. :-p Heh.. I need to get back out there again. Personally, although its the Floridian in me talking, I'd still set it up with either a replacement clutch, or an electric fan right away. You never know what could happen.. like you run into Wendys for a spicy chicken thinking you'll be out fast enough, but the people inside are slower than expected.. or any number of other things. Its just an extra safety net to be sure you wont blow up. However, short term, you can run without... since its so bleedin cold up there. Just make sure you've got room to "run out" and cool that puppy down if you're stopped for any period of time.

Extremely simple. Search for my thread on it.. its still pretty dang fresh. I will now stop participating in the hijack of russ' thread. Noah: I remember reading elsewhere that 45A is the standard. :shrug: I do know that my the one I took off the Brat was labelled 65A.. so that makes more sense. I consider myself enlightened.

Halloween is over. The dead (threads) are not allowed to walk anymore. To answer your question though, none. (since this is the old gen forum, this fact can only be applied to old gens)

EA series alternators are supposedly rated at 45A. However, before I did my 100A GM swap, I referenced the partnumber for what I was taking off, and it was labelled 65A. So I'd say 45-65A depending on the supplier/remanufacturer.

From all I've read, the XT series alternators are 90A.

http://4wpw.com 4Wheel Parts Warehouse. Pics, and decent prices too. You know.. Google is a good place to start looking. That, and the search button ^^^^^ up there.

If I could find someone here in the US that could make some good Aussie grade bullbars.. I'd get one myself. Then again, I dont have elk in my part of the world. And the deer I do face on a daily basis are usually smaller than the Brat. :-\ But it would look cool nonetheless. :cool:

As ShawnW said, its not comparing apples to apples, but.. I used to love my weber on the Brat... till its started doing whatever its doing that nobody really knows what its doing. Even with the big tyres, and such, it just plan ran a whole lot better than meh 79 GL. Power out the yingyang. Also compared to the coupe SPFI EA82s I've had the joy of driving.. just plain more get up and go. It all depends on what you want.. good mileage, or good power. EFI strikes a good comprimise between the two.. being able to self adjust over a big band in the middle of the two extremes...but you'll never get close to either. A fresh rebuilt Hitachi would get you in good on the mileage end of the spectrum, but power would suffer. A fresh Weber can get you a medium sized band on either end, power or mileage, depending on how you tune it. IMO, the Weber is the most flexible answer to all of the above. Hard to tune, whatever mine's doing, and other difficulties aside, the Weber 32/36 still gets my vote. :cool:

Actually, that one on the left belonged to Mike when that picture was taken. It belongs to me now. Eventually, when I win the lottery and can afford such things, I'm going to bring it up there to you to get your assiatance in making mine look like yours. Till then, 30x9.5s is the best I've got.