RavenTBK

Correct. Two ranges == dual range tranny.

If you look under the filter element, if its a Weber.. it would have this stamped on it. click to enlarge If its a Hitachi.. well, it wont say Weber on it.

First off, welcome to USMB! You'll find that theres plenty of info to be found all over the board as well as plenty of helpful folks to give you gentle kicks in the butt to get you in the right direction. #2, you'll find that plenty of us have the same feelings about the Subaru dealers. It seems they've completely forgotten where they came from, and refuse to recognize their past when its staring them in the face. I've gone to my local dealership for parts in my Brat, and I've have numerous new sales guys ask me if that "thing" I drive is a Subaru. "No, I'm just here to use the can and raid the snack machine." Again, welcome to the club.

Only a handful of counties here in Florida require emissions testing. I dont live in one anymore. None of Florida counties require safety inspections. As I remember from Pinellas county rules the emissions checks are a sniffer, and thats it. The ratings are based on the what was stock engine in the car, which is gathered by decoding the VIN. If you swap the engine, its output must match or be better than the original engine's ratings. eg: Going from a 302 to a 351 in your old Ford truck would be difficult, as the particulate outputs for the 351 would be a lil more than the 302. Same deal as going from an EA81 to an ER27. But again.. I dont live in one of those counties.

It was suggested to me by the local VW parts house to check the needle and seat, as the bouncing could've damaged one or the other, causing too much fuel to fill the bowl, overpressurizing the carb. He said that would be my jackpot...and if it isnt, he has no clue. Well, checked em both, nothing unusual was found. Float level is good too. I even bent the floats down a little lower than spec, and ran up the engine. Same deal, wether the bowl is full, or kept most of the way empty. Seems as though I've stumped the parts guy too. :-\ I've temporarily installed a cheap regulator from the parts store, and turned down the pressure to 1.5psi. Anything less and I found that it wont run at high revs either. Still spitting. This thing is so freaking frustrating. I'm gonna give Redline's tech number a call and see if they'll talk to me and maybe give me a place to look. Dunno if they will, since I didnt buy the carb from them. :shrug: Actually, I'm rather surpised that nobody else has replied with any possibilities. I know I'm not the only EA81 Weber out there.. the lack of replies leads me to believe that nobody else has had this ever happen to them. I know it had to of happened to someone at sometime. Wheres the knowledge?

Yep. Been there. Done that. Its an easy one beer swap if you have another axle to pop in.

Austin replied to my PM last night.. and pretty much said that a solution wasnt found, so he went back to the Hitachi. :banghead: So I'm still stumped.

Heh.. 13" spinners always make me laugh. Hopefully I can diagnose and successfully treat my Weber woes so I can make it down. If I cant get em straightened out, I'd prolly end up driving the Honda. :duncecap:

It should be one piece up till it gets to the "spider".. aka, the splitter tha splits the one line into two for the front and opposing rear. I read this in the HKYSA book. Other than that, I have no firsthand experience. Heh..

Nope, but I will add that to the todo list at next light. Nope. Not ever. There isnt one. Never has been one. :-\ Ran fine without it. The fuel pump, according the the inline gauge next to the carby, is only putting out 2psi. Most Weber installations I've read about this afternoon run on 3.5-4.5psi and require a return line to handle the extra volume of fuel. :shrug:

Actually, I after some extensive searching, I've found only ONE thread that describes similar symptoms. It was done by Ratty2Austin back in April'04. There were no replies. I've sent Austin a PM asking what was done to relieve the issue. The original thread can be found here. After reading through the original thread, I went back out to peer down the barrel after I got the engine warmed up. The description Austin wrote is better than the one I did. The "straw sucking" sounds I described before are consistent with the "drippy" emusifier tube. Liquid fuel would create the same sounds in that situation. I got the Brat warmed up, and to my surprise, thats exactly whats happening here. I brought out the light, and shot a short video of the inside of the primary barrel. I used a twig wedged in the throttle linkage to keep the revs up while I set up the shot. I then removed the twig and actuated the choke on and off by hand to keep the engine running while taping. You can just barely see the solid drips of fuel impacting the closed throttle plate. Looks like I've found the source.. now, since there was only one thread like this...with no replies, I must ask. How can I remedy this? http://latency.fjeer.us/bratdrip.mpg 3.49mb, 640x480, MPEG

Heh.. I'm leaning towards an obstruction of some kind as well. On the entire engine, theres only one real vac line, and that runs from the carb to the dizzy, which is in good shape. PCV system was removed and replaced with breather elements long before I obtained the Brat. Vacuum system, check. Its been de-emissioned, so the charcoal canister is gone. Heh.. plus, I'm running 30" tyres.. I dont have the spare under the hood. It doesnt fit! Float needle is clean.. bowl stays full. Fuel filter is new as of this morning, and the screen within the carb was pulled today and was found to be clean, but for testings sake, I've left it removed for the time being. This one I'm not too fond of, as at high revs, the Brat runs and pulls just as strong as it always has. So I dont believe its a flow volume problem. I really do appreciate the suggestions though! What may not apply here can be applied to other issues, either now with others, or in the future with my own.

Turning the idle set screw to raise the idle, yields a positive result around 1500rpm. At that level, it still skips, but will hold its own. Loosening the screw to bring it back down to spec, it quickly dies out before I return the screw to its previous "amount of turns".

Hmm.. so I pulled the idle jet in the back, shot cleaner through the jet itself, and shot it into the hole.. I saw where it dripped out on the other side. I shot carb cleaner back through its "outlet" to reverse flush it if you will. Put it back together. No dice. Still dies @ idle. I found a similar looking screw on the front of my Weber. Removed it.. looks almost exactly like the screw on the back. Did the same process. Put it back together. Still dies at idle. Finally, I got pissed at it and physically removed the carb from the intake and set it on the trunk lid of my Honda which was parked next to the Brat. I shot carb cleaner over everything.. cleaned up the carby real nice. Upon inspection, I learned its not a 32/36, but a 26/27 (stamped on each barrel) which explains why mine looks similar to the pic Skip posted.. but is different. I found one post in the archives that mentions a 26/27.. other than that, I still know nothing about this carb. edit: searching yahoo, I just learned that the "32/36" has a venturi size of 26/27.. that must be what the barrel stamps mean. i still know nothing, but want to fix it. info was obtained here I popped the top off again to see the bowl and its contents. I removed each and every jet, and applying the same process as above. I then flipped the top over and inspected the connections, and shot cleaner through each of the passageways in the lid. I even wedged open the throttle plates, used the plastic straw attachment to shoot carb cleaner up the back side of the emulsion tube in the primary barrel. I just finished putting it back in the Brat.. no dice. I did manage to fix the fast idle though. It idled fast, skipping beats here and there, then when the choke snapped open and the idle went to drop, it dropped all the way to 0rpm. Sux. I've got a friend thats a classic VW tuner.. if I cant get this carb fixed, I'm going to contact him to see if he's got an extra 32/36 dgev laying around I can "test" with. I am now officially stumped again. I know not where to go from this point. May I have some more helpful guidance?

Heh.. thanks Skip! That page has plenty of useful information and pictures. Turns out what I thought was primary/secondary were really the air correction jets. I will continue reading. So, I guess now that I've got it apart, I should shoot my trusty carb cleaner through all the jets just to be safe?

Okay, while I was desperately searching for another issue, I ran across a thread that had nothing to do with what I was searching for. It told me where I can find the jets within my Weber.. Nothing in the other thread pointed out anything important I should watch out for, so I felt frisky and went out and pulled the top cover of my Weber to peer inside. From all my other reading, I can figure out the primary and secondary mains jets, but I dont know what those three others are in the bottom of the float bowl. See attached image. (And no before yall freak out, its not real rust.. its just stains in the bowl) Which is what and what should my next step be?

So we all concur..but is there a way I can fix this without rebuilding the whole carb?

From that pic, it doesnt really look like its got a long wheel base. It looks like its got a standard wheel base, but with just an extended bed. It would be much more attractive if it really was a long wheel base.. ie: rear axle moved a bit further back.

The pistons DO come out the top. The debate is how to get them out. Either by splitting the case to knock them out, or to just do the pin trick and push them out without going to the trouble of splitting the case open.

Yep.. the method described in that thread is the preferred method thats described in the HKYSA book. So it most certainly can be done.

Amusing.. so the spring washer can cause the castle nut to loosen.. but loosen a whole hole over even with the cotter pin in place? Strangely enough, I dont recall seeing a spring washer on any of the four corners. Just the nut, and cone washer. :-\ Anywho.. since I snugged up the castle nut one hole over and replaced the cotter pin, its been fine ever since.

Nope, looked at mine again in the same spot, and I do not have one. :shrug: Heh.. that Mexican tuneup is a good idea. I went out and tried it anyways. As long as the idle stayed high, it ran.. but when the excess fuel was burned off, it dies. I will purchase a can of Seafoam and run it through the tank when I get it running good enough to drive again. I've searched through the archives and am curious.. is there any way I can do a minor disassembly and manually clean out the idle jet/emusifier tube? Tomorrow I will remove the plug for the filter screen and clean that area out. Any other things I can do?

I still shift on the fly.. but I thought I remembered reading a recommendation for clutching between 2/4wd in my owners manual a longtime ago. I must go look again, as I most likely sped through it and picked out only what I wanted to read. Till then, I consider myself enlightened.

Yep. Actually, pushes into the overflow tank when it heats up, and sucks back as the coolant in the radiator cools. Not necessarily when its low. Now, by design, an overflow tank was not included. The Subie radiator will maintain the proper level of coolant automagically. The proper level of coolant is about an inch below the bottom of the filler neck...about 1/2 inch above the coils. If you need to add coolant to your radiator to bring the level above the core more than once a week, you've got other issues. The overflow bottle is just a band-aid to not have to add coolant as often. In a system thats without isues, the overflow bottle is not necessary, but it does extend the periods between topping off the coolant. Its since gotten dark outside. I still went out and took a pic of my setup. You can see the hose from the filler neck, dropping down into the gear oil bottle. Simple, yet effective. Lookie below.

Yep.. you're right on the ball. I had the same deal.. 6" hose going nowhere. So, after I changed the gear oil in my tranny, I re-used one of those bottles. I jammed it down the side of the radiator and framerail, and added a longer hose that would reach to the bottom of the bottle. Voila! Instant overflow bottle. Havent been low on coolant since.