RavenTBK

You ARE depressing the clutch pedal when you try to shift it between 2/4wd right? Binding or not, I've found that simply depressing the clutch makes it much easier to go between the two.. which is how it was designed to operate anyways.

Pics. DSC06859 shows the 6 screws I was referring to in the prev post.

I've got a weber as mentioned above, and I dont have an ADS. Wish it could be something that simple. So far today, the plugs are all good as I thought they'd be, cleaned em up and reinstalled. The engine lost the misfire now, just wont idle. I've ruled out the plugs/wires, and fuel filter as the causes. I do think its carb related. I've disconnected the fuel line, pumped and drained the carb till I was able to blow into the fuel line and hear air escape from the throat of the carb. I blew a bit, and sucked a bit.. the air seemed to be moving fine. I shot some carb cleaner down the throat all around the venturi, and even put a small bit down the fuel line and blew it through the jets. I let it set up for awhile with the throttle plates open to let all the bad stuff evaporate out so as to not start a fire. Just hooked it all back up and still the same deal. No idle, but the misfire is gone after I cleaned the plug electrodes with some sandpaper and regapped them. I did notice something strange though. When the engine is running at just above idle, I listen to the inlet of the carb, and it sounds a bit like when you get to the bottom of your soda from McDonalds.. you know, the straw sucking the last bit of soda out of the cup? Slurp thing. It sounds a bit like instead of making a full spray of fuel, its also passing air bubbles through the jets. Does this make any sense? I've got the bottom aircleaner housing removed from the weber, and I see 6 screws that appear to be holding an upper plate. Can I remove these 6 screws to peer further into the carb without having to buy a whole new gasket/rebuild kit? I'd like some insight on how I can go about troubleshooting this without having to go through a whole rebuild. I'm broke right now, and with the Florida M&G coming up, I've gotta save what I can when I can.

It also makes pretty colours if you accidently drop your cigarette on it...

Granted is an hour and a half north, but we could make this into a meet-greet-and-run up into Ocala NF.. doing simple stuff like 595 up around the bombing range (some siiick sugar sand, small hillclimbs) and maybe blueberry hill (sweet long sandy hillclimb). It'd be a good make up for the last run that everybody else missed. Since I'm gonna go play there anyways before I drive back home, we might as well all go play a bit after we meet.

Yep. Been there, done that. The first thread that Handtool posted there is my own. It includes pics and part numbers if you want to go pick up a fresh one from the parts house. Just go to the junk yard for long enough to grab a suitable core. Extremely easy to do, and well worth it. Read through my thread and you should have everything you'd need. If you hae any questions, either myself or any of us knowledgable folks will be happy to provide guidance.

Yep yep.. stupid engine tricks. Wow. While bounding down some of my favourite trails in the forest, I came across a whoop that wasnt there yesterday. Needless to say, I did bounce up and down quite hard, hitting my head on the roof. I got to the end of the trail, and the Brat died. I was able to crank it back up by feathering the throttle a bit. It has a light misfire when its not under load, and wont idle period. I got it back out onto the road, and the misfire goes away when I mash down on the gopedal and go under load. I got it back home and had my lovely assistant crank and feather the throttle while I peered under the hood at the pressure gauge thats installed on the fuel line. Good pressure, so I know the fuel pump isnt the culprit. With the engine running, I shot a bit of carb cleaner into the carby to clean the throttle plates and jets. Still no dice. No idle, and misfire. Everything under the hood is in the same place and condition it was before..least from a visual standpoint. I'm tired of messing around today, and will start by pulling the plugs, and then tearing it down tomorrow and figured I'd ask tonight. What would yall think it could be? It would save me some time if I knew specifically what to check instead of tearing it apart piece by piece. De-emissioned ea81, weber 32/36..

As fer oil.. I prefer to run Castrol GTX 20/50. But since I'm such a cheapass, I usually just dump in the 98c quarts of SuperTech from WallyWorld. Battery, again, WallyWorld is your friend. Everstart Extreme, aka the yellow brick. It may not last forever like the Optima would, but it does come with a 5 year 100% exchange warranty. For me, its an excuse to use it, abuse it, do everything but lose it. If it ever craps out within 5 years of the lil sticker on the side of the battery, bring it back and they'll give you a brand new one for free. Cant beat that, not even with a big stick. Just my 1/2 cent.

Bumpity bump goes the blonde in the backseat.. Figgered I'd bring this back up to the top again to refresh everybodys memory.. <15 days remain.

Sure.. here's a quick how-to. Look up in the upper right hand corner of the page. Just below the Log Out link is a link for the Photo Gallery. Click it. When the page loads, look back up in the same place. See the Photo Gallery link again? Good.. now look straight down ever so lightly. There will be a link in the next row that says Upload Photos. Click that and follow the directions that show up afterwards. Cheers.

I was bored and started looking through the last few pages of the Offroad forum, reading stuff from mid '03. I ran across this thread again, and I feel the information contained therein should be revisted. Especially the information contained in this post. It seemed like there was an interest in fulfilling the market demand a couple years ago.. I wonder if it still exists today...and if it doesnt, maybe we could convince them now that theres more of us around. I figured I'd create new, then reference the old rather than bringing the old back up from the dead. Any thoughts?

Aye.. I do the same. When I first got the Brat, my mom wanted to see how it rode, I took her up to the motoX pits and put the Brat in the same position. My momma has never ever beat me.. till that afternoon.

Well, since it looks like you're making a big X across the country, why not continue the journey and go from Reno back over here to Flarda? I'm right off I-10 and I could use a spare rear end I could weld up as well as rear disc setup. The junkyards here (and within 200 miles) suck. Only one EA81 subie within 200 miles.. gah. Geez.. doing the math, I'm seeing a bit over 12k miles for this journey.. sounds like something I'd do.

This morning I decided to pull the hub and just replace the wheel bearings since its a cheap enough fix. I got the Brat up in the air, and went to remove the cotter pin from the axle nut. I noticed that the nut had turned ever so slightly putting pressure on the pin making it impossible to remove. So I broke out the socket, and went to put a bit of pressure on the nut to turn it so I could remove the cotter pin. I then noticed that the nut moved very easily. I removed the cotter pin, and fiured I'd try to see how much more it would tighten up. I was able to tighten the nut about 90% over to the next hole before I felt resistance. So I took out the breaker bar, and tightened it the rest of the way, reinstalled the cotter pin, and drove it round the driveway a couple times. No noise, no pops, no nothing. Since I'm a lazy rump roast, I'm just going to continue to drive and see if the noises return.. theres still no play in the bearings.. so I'm just gonna let it ride. So the solution ended up being to tighten up the castle nut. I remember reading (I think it was edrach who posted it) about how the castle nut can move and loosen up even with the cotter pin installed. Whoever has that story, please explain how the heck this can happen?

Okay. I have no idea if I'm just reading things and getting them mixed up in my head or what. I'm seriously considering wheel bearings as the source of my snap crackle and popping described in a previous thread so I'm just gonna replace them, and I am trying to read up and understand exactly how it all comes together. Okay.. according to my copy of HKYSA, the hub/rotor assembly is held on by the stub, and once the caliper and axle nut are removed, the hub should slide off the stub shaft. If thats true, then if the axle is removed without removing the hub, wouldnt the hub/rotor assy just fall to the ground? If the caliper isnt unbolted from the rotor, would that keep the hub attached to the car? Why am I asking such stupid questions? When I was doing my axle swap in the lot of CVO, I noticed that when I removed the axle from the hub, the hub stayed in place and never moved. I could even turn the hub by grabbing the rotor.. turn it just like the axle was still holding it in place. I figure if the caliper can hold the hub on if the axle is removed, then it should be difficult of spin the hub as the drag from the pads would be noticable. Am I crazy? Do I need more sleep? Do I need to just get up off my tail and pull it apart and see what falls off? My plans are to go buy a set of bearings and seals from AutoZone tomorrow morning, pull off the hub/caliper assy as one unit, and have my machine shop buddy remove/press them in. Hopefully that will remedy my crackling.. since its cheap enough for the parts..why not right?

How bout you describe what pieces of metal you bent, and post up some pics? Cause your description doesnt quite help the rest of the folks that might be interested in doing this too. As for me, I'm just used to lifting the handle. I also keep a slipjim ziptied to my undercarriage in case I ever get locked out. :cool: But more information would help others...

"Please dont harass me" I remember my first time. Her name was Della...a beautiful brunette with thighs like.. err.. uhm.. nevermind. I just realised this was about first time offroad. Yep.. thats something I'd rather forget. Glad it all worked out.

The only one I had time to watch before I skipped out was hat last one. Absolutely great. So now we know the answer to the eternal question: Sinker or Floater? But that was one serious hole. Kickass vid.

Looks strangely familiar... same wheels that I sport.

You could always be a rebel and go 6 lug yota wheels.

6" lift on the rat.. and I can shoot around corners almost as fast as I can in my big Bronco. It all depends on the driver. Regardless of how you're set up, if you know the limits of your rig, it can be as safe as anything else.

So, your "new" axle was already in place when you had your "incident"? I learned from Mr Kevin at CVO that the outer joints can be damaged by impact.. like hitting a pothole too fast. Thats one of the broken things on the axle he rebuilt for me that I swapped out in the parking lot. You said you lost a wheel and "dumped it"? That short of jarring could've broken the cage like it did on mine. That busted cage was the cause of the clicking going straight in my case.

I've got a strange noise that originating from the drivers side front wheel. When I apply the brakes, I hear a cracking and popping sound that comes from that wheel, and can also feel it pulse back up the brake pedal. Sounds a bit like ball bearings rolling and crushing through grains of sand. At first, I thought it was wheel bearings, but the usual checks (raising the wheel, and checking for play) have come up as no. No play whatsoever, either horizontal, vertical, or in/out along the hub axis. I've done a visual on the brakes, everything looks hunkey dorey. Pads and rotor are good, all bolts in place. I'm not sure what it could be.. could the rotor have come loose from the hub and be making noises moving back and forth? Could the wheel bearings still be bad but not exhibit and of the usual signs of failure? I could think worn outer CV joint as I havent changed out that side.. but I'm not sure I'd feel the pops back up into the brake pedal. I dunno.. I'm grabbing at thin air here. With Christmas around the corner, funds are tight, and I cant afford to start replacing the entire front end just yet. If I can find the defective part, I'll replace it. As of now, I just dont know what it is. Any thoughts?

I noted this thread awhile ago.. but had forgotten all about it. I have been officially reminded.:cool: Geez.. I'm gonna have to come up with some cash.. this one on the 15th.. then I've got one with my Bronco pals on the 29th out in central AL. Oh yeah.. and this has to be said: TWISTEE TREAT!!! Heh.. sorry. I dont get out much.