RavenTBK

Crap. Thats kind of the idea I had, however was halfway hoping it wasnt the case and sought confirmation.. Thx.

The topic kinda says it all. With regard to 4WD disc hubs, is there any difference between the front and rear? I havent had em both off together to set them side by side or anything, but from what I've been able to see they look awful similar. Is a disc hub a disc hub regardless of F/R?

That is absolutely beautiful. Exactly the thing I need. Thank you. I'm just surprised I've had so much bad luck trying to find something like this today ((read: multiple hours)). Google is useless sometimes...

Thats an option... one my machine shop guy would like to use as a last resort. I was able to figure that out, but that measurement doesnt fill in any of the question marks on the diagram, which is what Mr Machine Shop needs to drill, and guarantee his work. (Move X over from centerline reference, then Y down and drill...etc etc) At the same time, this is kind of something that needs to be figured out anyways. Something that could be put into the USRM to "aid future generations".

Here's what I've got so far.... anybody good with math fill in the blanks?

Anybody have an actual spec drawing for the standard 6-lug rims? I've got a buddy who does machine shop work and is willing to drill out my new hubs for 0$, however he lacks the fancy machinery that can accurately position the drill in a circle... basically, just X and Y only, no curves. Anybody have a design drawing that shows the positions of the 6 lugs that need to be drilled out? ie: bolt circle, and X,Y measurements from the center for each lug? I know since the 6-lug pattern is so common, there has to be a design drawing out there on the interweb somewhere... just havent found one yet. Anybody got something they could toss my way?

Up until I began the never-ending motor swap, I drove my Brat on a daily basis. 35mi commute, another 30 or so on the job, then 35 back home. 6" lift, on 30" A/Ts. Hell, even loaded up my old Altima on the race trailer and yanked it around a bit with the ute. Of course it handles much differently than stock, and different still from other cars, but its something you can adapt to quickly. Daily (ab)use is no biggie. As GD said above, it still suffers from the 20 year syndrome... Once I get my new longer wheel studs in, I can finish the disc swap, re-tune the weber and get back to running it regularly.

Post up what you find... I'll have to bookmark this and check back when I have some extra cheddar..

Actually, the R180 was the standard in the 280Z/ZX. Turbo models (82-83) got the R200 in stock form. 300ZXs in 84-up were is where the R200 was the stock flavor. Both R180 and R200 could either use flanges where the halfshafts connect, or later models used CVs. Both diff stubs are interchangeable. R180/R200 are freely interchangeable. R160/R180 can be swapped, but you've gotta swap diff stubs, and/or go with custom CVs.

Funny, my base gasket is made of paperboard like GD's. Never seen a plastic one. I second the suggestion above about a VW parts house. Thats where I get all my Weber crap from. Eastern Imports here in Tallahassee, FL. Thats where I can find all the obscure parts for all my Japanese or German junk in my yard. Base gaskets (2 in the pack) ran me $1.88. http://www.easternimports.com

A Subaru can fit on a two-track trail (atv trail) and haul rump roast rallycross style without fear of losing mirrors or spanking a tree thats close to the trail. Other than the densely forested portions, single-track trails are no issue either. In other words, "other trucks" are too big. I've done plenty of things and fit in plenty more places with my Brat than my Bronco can get into. Only other 4x4 thats got a chance is a Sammy thats still at stock width.

:slobber:

Where did she go, and is she hot/single? Which airport can I pick her up from? And just a minor correction, they're known as HB1, not H1. An H1 is a totally different animal. HB1 is the 9004 equivalent. Here's a quick primer: HB1 == 9004 HB2 == 9003 HB3 == 9005 HB4 == 9006 HB5 == 9007 H1's are used a high beam bulbs in quad lamp setups. H2's are used in some high beam and mostly fog/driving lamps. H3's are used in driving lamps almost exclusively. Handheld spots and such as well. H4's are used in the combo low/hi side of headlamps. Their pinout is identical to the 6054 sealed beam lamps and similar ones. Direct swap. Yadda yadda.. just wanted to make sure the cloud of confusion is cleared up.

Since your wanting responses from Florida, heres one. As in other states, money talks. You can get anything you want out of a yard, just without a title. Theres no such thing as a "salvage" or "rebuild" title in Florida.....least the last time I checked there wasnt. If a car is totalled, thats it. That VIN is struck from the records of the State... but you can, however, register it in another state that doesnt cross-check with Florida... Tennesee or Arkansas for example. Only way to get a junkyard vehicle titled is to do some shady things with a drill and rivet gun that I'm sure are public knowledge, but I wont mention them. Same deal as above, you move more than 5 titles a year through you as an individual or as a business, you are required to have a dealers license, which takes more money than its worth to get set up in most cases. So, with that in mind, most yards will refuse to sell a whole car, but theres some local to me that have "lost" cars outside the back fence... I'll leave the rest of that to your imagination.

Yall could always come down thisaways... I've got a 564,961 acre national forest for us to play in. Plenty of fire roads capable of high speed rallyX type driving, and even more offroad trails for stockers and a handful of trails if you've got the balls. Then theres my buddy that owns a bog-in in a nearby town... with a deep hole for the big guys, a shallow pan style pond for the stock trucks, and a sling pit, thats about 4" of slick slinging mud with a hardpack bottom. As for everything else, later is better. If doing the dragon, I'd prefer away from memorial day, as theres only so many punks with fart can equipped WRXs I can handle in any given day.

I need to find a tape measure for the rocker height for you, but I've got 30x9.5s on my Brat. Going to bump to 31x13.5s once I get the cash to order those size swampers.... talk about serious floatation. I'll get back to you with rocker height tomorrow sometime.

Effin schweet...

I would post a bunch, however, its unrelated to the composite lamped EA82. I probably should've made that a bit more clear... this was done on an EA81, with the quad lamp setup. I'm unsure if the early ea82 quad lamp setup would swap into a loyale or not. As to how it looks, it looks completely stock. I've attached a close-up of what they look like. You can plainly see the Autopal logo, and H1 in the middle of the high beam lens. They're actually E-code for LHD countries, and not the RHD models that others try to get away with, causing dangerous glare for oncoming drivers. Either way, this technically doesnt apply to this thread, as its about the GL/Loyale. Interesting. I wasnt aware of the 9104's existence. Only thing on eBay I can find is one item, a stupid "crystal blue" bulb. How much do those things run you down there? I'm going to start looking into swapping out the lousy 9004s on my Bronco. /end threadjack

Are people more interested in a plain vanilla meet (lunch/drinks/parking lot drooling etc), or an actual roadtrip / offroad thing?

I stand corrected in the original hookup. I learned what I know about the Subaru setup from testing on my Brat during the GM swap. When I first got the Brat, it sure wasnt stock, so it wouldnt surprise me if things were re-done before I got it. In my particular case, the field sense wire was switched by the ignition, and the idiot light ran from the terminal directly to the hot side of the dash lamp, therefore I assumed that terminal "linked" with the B+ stud upon failure, providing +12v to the lamp. I again rump roastumed that was the stock configuration. So thats how I left it when the GM went in. I re-learn about assumptions each and every day, yet for some reason it never sticks. Like I said, GD knows his crap. Personally, I enjoy failure, and setting things on fire... thats how I learn. Bob, ignore me. I'm a much better thief than mechanic.

I'm on a slow connection, so I wont read the links that GD posted, although I am sure they contain a wealth of knowledge... that doesnt mean YOU shouldnt read them, just that I wont. GD knows his schitt... and if he says to read something, I'd suggest you do it. Here's how it goes in its original setup, and not necessarily how you should hook it up on your trike.... I understand not being electrically savvy, we all were at one point.. so I'll break it down barney style. Again, this is how its set up in a normal configuration... The "field sense" wire I referred to earlier is just a switched 12v source. It is switched with the ignition.. providing +12v with ignition on, and 0v when the ignition is off. Its the wire that tells the alternator to "power up" its internal magnets and make power. With the ignition off, no power is supplied to this wire, which "shuts off" the internals in the alternator and it produces (and draws) no power. The idiot light wire just goes straight into the hot side of the idiot bulb in the dash. NOW back to reality here.. how GD was suggesting (in his last post) was to connect your field sense wire directly to unswitched +12v at the main junction. There is NO PROBLEM with doing it this way. The only downside is the alternator will remain energized with the motor off, and if stored for a long time, you could possibly run your battery down. Emphasis on long time, and possibly. As an easier alternative to the above, you could easily turn the field sense wire into a jumper, that twists around the back of the alternator and connects to the output stud, creating the same effect. This essentially creates a "one wire" alternator.. one wire meaning the only wire that leaves it is the one that runs from the output stud directly to the battery or main junction (preferably through a breaker for safety sake). So yeah, your options are these: a) run the field sense wire through an on/off switch (ignition), to turn on/off the alternator along with the engine jump the field sense wire back to +12v, and call it a day. Use your building plans to decide whether you want to include the idiot light. Cheers.

To answer your question, on the T plug, the top of the T is the field sense wire, and the bottom of the T is the idiot light. Check my post in the USRM if you want to see for yourself.. theres pics from (link) my alt swap that'd help you.

Bah.. for the same price as that HID swap, I did H4/H1 E-Code conversions on my Brat awhile back, and push 700W (total output) on high beam from the stock locations (read: no extra accessory lamps). You can feel the heat from 3 feet away. I never did finish that writeup for it tho. :-\ *adds another task to the palmpilot* From what I've seen in this thread, I dont believe I would've purchased those particular conversion lamps. The scatter from those things is horrible. With the stupid composite lamps the EA82s use, I would've just gone with silverstars for a lil bit extra output, re-aiming, internal cleaning/restoring of the housing/lenses, and possibly redoing the wiring to add relays to minimize voltage drop. /end MHO

Interesting. I do believe I shall attend, barring spontaneous combustion of myself, or my Brat before those dates. I, of course, will be the black sheep in the camo Brat. I'll keep that thread marked and refer to it as the day gets closer. /end threadjack + plug To provide CPR to a thread thats wandering off course: Yes you're an idiot crazy D. However, screwing up is half the fun right? Thats why people like me drive tow trucks for a living.